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Foolproof Oplux Autoblock / Friction Rappel Config

neonomad

neonomad

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Sep 4, 2019
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1,373
Referring to the safety setup below your descender. Does it exist? What is it and why? Have I missed the thread that settles this, given our current state of the art?
 
I doubt it’s the end all be all. But I have had had great success rappelling with a schwebash about 6” below my figure 8. It grips well and doesn’t slip and hooking it into my lineman’s loop keeps the hitch from getting into the figure 8. Which would be bad for obvious reasons.

The trick is to tie your scaffold hitches in such a way that when you clip it under your figure 8, the hitch can’t get up there no matter how you move.


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trailblazer75 said:
I doubt it’s the end all be all. But I have had had great success rappelling with a schwebash about 6” below my figure 8. It grips well and doesn’t slip and hooking it into my lineman’s loop keeps the hitch from getting into the figure 8. Which would be bad for obvious reasons.

The trick is to tie your scaffold hitches in such a way that when you clip it under your figure 8, the hitch can’t get up there no matter how you move.


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TRC?
 
I use an ATC with a beal jammy secured to my linesman loop. I found that 4 wraps holds better than 3 but either way is very secure. The 4 wraps also keeps the jammy from getting too close to the ATC.
 
I use a 35cm Beal Jammy tied in a Klemheist and clipped in to my right side lineman’s loop.


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This may be of interest to those who are reading this thread.

Interesting warning from Mad Rock Safeguard paperwork.

First of all, yes, I actually read through their paperwork. Wasn’t too worried about how to operate it, I was using a Grigri when they first came out and the safeguard is very similar. Anyway, I found an interesting warning against using a backup friction knot on the braking end...
saddlehunter.com
 
I was using a Klemheist above a figure 8 for repelling on 11mm semi-static with no problems, I bought some 10mm static rope to use for one stick repelling, took a fast ride down with that rig the other day. Nothing is fool proof
 
trailblazer75 said:
I doubt it’s the end all be all. But I have had had great success rappelling with a schwebash about 6” below my figure 8. It grips well and doesn’t slip and hooking it into my lineman’s loop keeps the hitch from getting into the figure 8. Which would be bad for obvious reasons.

The trick is to tie your scaffold hitches in such a way that when you clip it under your figure 8, the hitch can’t get up there no matter how you move.


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This was the same system I used. When I was ready to rappel I would hook up my lineman’s belt and put my wait on that. Loosen and slide down my Schwabisch hitch (I use my rappel rope as my tether). I would then attach my figure-8 to my bridge which I left longer to allow room. The final step was to move the carabiner from the Schwabisch hitch down to my right lineman’s loop or simply to the right bridge loop. By leaving the bridge longer this gave me plenty of room to make sure the Schwabisch stayed well away from the figure-8. Very smooth and safe way to rappel.
 
The trick with this system is that you MUST practice with it at lower heights until you become very familiar with it.

Our natural tendency when we slip is to start grabbing things to stop the slip. You grab the wrong thing and you’re hitting the ground hard. When using this system of the figure-8 with the backup on the braking end of the rope make sure there’s enough room for your hand to work above the backup hitch. Also practice rappel then stopping so that you become very comfortable with it.
 
I like the idea of putting the friction hitch above the figure 8 because you don't need to take your weight off the tether to attach the belay devise BUT that means the hitch is holding 100% of the weight. I think i'm going to hook up the same but always back my single rope repells with a hitch below the devise so not all of my 250lb+ arse is on the hitch.
 
loujo61 said:
I like the idea of putting the friction hitch above the figure 8 because you don't need to take your weight off the tether to attach the belay devise BUT that means the hitch is holding 100% of the weight. I think i'm going to hook up the same but always back my single rope repells with a hitch below the devise so not all of my 250lb+ arse is on the hitch.
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Good luck getting that hitch to break loose when it’s above your figure 8. I tried it that way and hated it.


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trailblazer75 said:
Good luck getting that hitch to break loose when it’s above your figure 8. I tried it that way and hated it.


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That was the reason I put the hitch below the device on the braking end. It only has to hold a fraction of the weight making it easier to release, especially when I had to stop and remove my ROS or stick. Just made it much easier to work with.
 
trailblazer75 said:
What hitch? Distel?


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I don't have it tied currently, but a distel with 7mm sterling cord on 9mm htp (and a distel with whatever cord aerohunter provided with the kestrel and predator) in my tether testing, could be set up such that they would grip, but release when squeezed, even loaded. Note: these were close to the edge (embarrassingly, i had my wife test sit and the knot promptly slid down the rope until she was sitting on the floor, as she didn't trust the knot and eased into it slowly with tension on the tail) so test thoroughly. An autoblock would likely perform similarly. My inclination would be to upsize the hitch cord and explore different combos, if I were working to set up such a config.
 
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