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Friction Hitches

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Aww crap, we’ve all been trying to keep it a secret from you!!
There is another way to tie it, after forming the wraps, make the ring with the bottom wrap and bring it to the back to form the twist.

A separate non metal ring and tender can also be used. Here is 1/8” T-100 on 6mm Excel Elite. With the stopper tied in back the load is held by 4 strands of cord, with a break strength of 2000 lbs, times four is 4 tons, minus the loss from the stopper.
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Brocky said:
Aww crap, we’ve all been trying to keep it a secret from you!!
There is another way to tie it, after forming the wraps, make the ring with the bottom wrap and bring it to the back to form the twist.

A separate non metal ring and tender can also be used. Here is 1/8” T-100 on 6mm Excel Elite. With the stopper tied in back the load is held by 4 strands of cord, with a break strength of 2000 lbs, times four is 4 tons, minus the loss from the stopper.
View attachment 81090
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So after reading all 14 pages so far. What have all your testing and experience led you to in regards as your favorite hitch? Not asking what is 'best', because I feel that is up to debate, but what is YOUR go to hitch when you go hunt?

And what hitch would you recommend for a permanent SRT rappelling setup? Like I rather run the hitch all the way back the length of the rope after rappelling instead of undoing and redoing the hitch.
 
For now, the Sticht and Synergy X, they release under load, repeatedly. I typically use a Michoacán if only backing up a descending device. One feature I have been concentrating on is self tending hitches, they also don’t seem to bind up as much. The simplest one so far is one with the wraps and then tying a Granny, or Square knot around the rope below.
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Brocky said:
For now, the Sticht and Synergy X, they release under load, repeatedly. I typically use a Michoacán if only backing up a descending device. One feature I have been concentrating on is self tending hitches, they also don’t seem to bind up as much. The simplest one so far is one with the wraps and then tying a Granny, or Square knot around the rope below.
View attachment 81170
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Have you been able to determine what if anything the extra 3 wraps on the top part in the opposite direction in the WLR hitch do if anything to that hitch?
 
Burk’s discovery of tying the Sticht with a loop meant a tube tender couldn’t be used,they’re not needed, but do make tending easier. So came up with a doodad to do the same thing, tried a few different concepts. Enlarging the ends keeps them in place.
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gcr0003 said:
Have you been able to determine what if anything the extra 3 wraps on the top part in the opposite direction in the WLR hitch do if anything to that hitch?
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I’m think the opposite wraps at the top of the WLR help keeps the top end from tightening down like a normal 4wrap hitch tends to do. All the weight from the lower cobra weave section goes into the middle and bottom of the top section, not the top and bottom like the more common hitches. Since that top wrap isn’t supporting 1/2 the weight passed up from the lower section, it works like a tender on that middle wrap that is holding the weight. That’s my theory….does suck that it takes up so much space though.
 
FrankNess14 said:
I’m think the opposite wraps at the top of the WLR help keeps the top end from tightening down like a normal 4wrap hitch tends to do. All the weight from the lower cobra weave section goes into the middle and bottom of the top section, not the top and bottom like the more common hitches. Since that top wrap isn’t supporting 1/2 the weight passed up from the lower section, it works like a tender on that middle wrap that is holding the weight. That’s my theory….does suck that it takes up so much space though.
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I’ve been trying the WLR without the top 3 wraps and it’s been working pretty well. Will keep y’all posted on long term results. I haven’t purely rope climbed on it yet, I’ve only used it as a hitch for my foot loop while 2 tether climbing.
 

Hey @Brocky have you heard of this "new" hitch? The guy says he invented it but it looks awfully familiar yet I can't place it.... maybe it is new. I tried it and it did alright!
 
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Brocky said:
Burk’s discovery of tying the Sticht with a loop meant a tube tender couldn’t be used,they’re not needed, but do make tending easier. So came up with a doodad to do the same thing, tried a few different concepts. Enlarging the ends keeps them in place.
View attachment 81922
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@Brocky I tried to look through your posts but couldn't find this, sorry if you've already posted about it - what are the non-metal rings you are using with your Sticht hitches? Do you make them? Is it just a loop of climbing rope fused together? If you make them, how do you do it to make it strong enough to withstand the loading of the hitch? On my Sticht hitches it seems like there is a pretty good amount of "pulling apart" force on the ring but maybe there's less than I think. I suppose I could just cover my rings with stealth strips but I'm intrigued by your no-metal pics.

The Sticht hitch is so awesome, thank you for all the work you do helping us figure it out on here.

Edit: I see that earlier in this thread you said:
"It’s a piece of 6mm polyester cover with five twisted dyneema stands going around, then the ends of the cover are sewn together."

This sounds pretty complicated... unless you tell me it's easier than it sounds I may stick with stealth stripping my metal rings :sweatsmile:
 
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I didn’t describe it correctly, it’s one strand going around numerous times.
I keep each pass through the cover a little longer than the last to make tightening up easier.
I pack it as tight as possible, leave the strand ends and sew up the cover. The loose strands can than be buried some more to make the ring as stiff as possible.
More flexible rings get stretched out some, the bottom of the ring the most, the twist limits how much force the ring receives.
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All the videos I saw on the Cornell used an eye to eye. This is what I came up with in place of that. Formed the hitch and then added a half square knot on the back side before making the loops for the carabiner. Anyone see any thing of concern?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
phatkaw said:
That knot in the back should work as a tender...
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I wanted it to tend if it would but the hitch normally ends in the front and since I was not using an eye to eye I also needed a way to connect. I didnt think it would tend if I just added poachers to each leg so I went this route. I havent put it on a tree with body weight but just with hand loading it in the house it seems like it will tend at least decently. Again without putting body weight on it, it seems like it will make a great ascending hitch using the carabiner as a handle. Just grab it and shovel the hitch up the line. With hand loading it worked super easy.
 
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