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Getting learnt with Dr. Ed Ashby
- Thread starter Weldabeast
- Start date
Kurt
Well-Known Member
I for one am going to take this information and apply it to the arrows I'm going to build for next year.
Great podcasts, loaded with information. Check out this website ashbybowhunting.org
Host: So what arrow do you like to hunt whitetail with?
Ashby: My 1200gr rhino arrow.....''Right throu the shoulder and drop 'em on the ground right there.... That's my favorite shot.''
He's a mad man.....
Ashby: My 1200gr rhino arrow.....''Right throu the shoulder and drop 'em on the ground right there.... That's my favorite shot.''
He's a mad man.....
peteherbst
Well-Known Member
I just started getting into his work via the ranch fairy. Definitely some eye opening stuff.
GrizzlyStik
Here's a good collection of articles for those of use that would be comatose after listening to a podcast longer than 3 minutes.
FletchDeep
Active Member
- Joined
- Aug 7, 2018
- Messages
- 169
My only issue is most of his testing was done with recurves which need all the help they can get penetration wise. In his kifarucast episode he said they tried testing with an older darton compound and it blew through everything, hard to measure which penetrates best when the arrows don't stop. So when thinking about his studies you should realize your compound has way more energy then the stick bows they were testing with.
Gamover06
Well-Known Member
Correct but most of us have first hand knowledge that a 400 grain arrow is not blowing through both shoulders. I had a 435 grain arrow not even make it through one shoulder. He was testing arrows that are were 600 and up which is why most people say 550 to 600 plus will do the job with high FOC. He stopped testing because he was smart enough to know and arrow set up of 600 grains and up high FOC with a compound and you will have zero issue for most animals...….All animals USA.
DaWiz9578
Well-Known Member
I plan on building an arrow that can go through the tree behind the deer. I dont think it costs much if any more to build an arrow with these intentions.
I will also be switching to fixed blade so I dont have to worry if my broadhead opened or not and if it can handle heavy bone if that is where it ends up hitting.
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I will also be switching to fixed blade so I dont have to worry if my broadhead opened or not and if it can handle heavy bone if that is where it ends up hitting.
Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk
d_rek
Well-Known Member
Component wise, no. The cost is marginal.
In terms of getting your bow to tune and shoot such arrows? It will not be a trivial task.
IME, having played with arrows 400-650 grains in weight (I know, not 'ashby weight') the higher the weight the harder they get to tune. Higher FOC is achieved at the expense of dynamic spine, which in turn makes your bow work harder to fire them straight. Also you no longer have relatively flat shooting arrow at distances under 30.
That being said my default arrows are weighing about 460grains without any added weight. I've blew through opposite side shoulder blades twice (not the knuckle, mind you) and don't seem to have issues with penetration (except when I make really awful shots).
DaWiz9578
Well-Known Member
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Bigfoot522
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Oct 9, 2019
- Messages
- 711
I like heavy but to a point.
The faster the bow means more energy into a slightly heavier arrow. Not a faster arrow..
I try to keep in mind my shot window for what I'm hunting and the distance required.
For longer stuff like Elk, the longer distance the arrow flies in the kill zone, the better mitigating distance miscalculation a little bit.
The faster the bow means more energy into a slightly heavier arrow. Not a faster arrow..
I try to keep in mind my shot window for what I'm hunting and the distance required.
For longer stuff like Elk, the longer distance the arrow flies in the kill zone, the better mitigating distance miscalculation a little bit.
d_rek
Well-Known Member
Just a generality. Being specific: weaker spines prefer lower draw weights, vice versa for stiffer. Bow timing becomes more critical, as does being able to set the appropriate draw weight for the arrow in question. Also re-adjusting site for a now pronounced arc for arrow flight. Also understanding that you may be compromising some of the forgiving 'features' of your bow for a heavier arrow, which requires more effort on behalf of the archer to have better form and execute better shots.
Gamover06
Well-Known Member
If your building properly you should not be shooting weak spined arrows. Plus heavier arrows are more forgiving not less forgiving. The bows that I have worked on tuned easier with heavier arrows then lighter arrows. Your bow is quieter and just as efficient. They make 150 spine arrows so their is no way that you should be shooting a weak arrow.
If you are going heavy you have to adjust your arrow spine. That all depends on how much weight you want to add, poundage, draw length and arrow length. You can not take you regular 400 grain and throw 200 grains on it and think your going to be good to go. Not saying that is what you did but a lot of people make that mistake in the beginning.
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d_rek
Well-Known Member
Yes.
- Joined
- Oct 10, 2018
- Messages
- 1,377
I think it was @Weldabeast, who posted in another thread, a video of a fella demonstrating the difference in arrow drop with varying weights with a bow being shot from a machine with arrows ranging from 450 to 700grs or so. Point being that at a range of 35yds from a 70# bow the difference between a 450gr up to 600gr was a 2" drop at point of impact. I know not everyone shoots at 70#'s and 35yds is the limit for most of us but it proves the "heavy arrow lob trajectory" is not as pronounced as it is made out to be especially at closer deer ranges.
I'm in the early stages experimenting with heavier arrows but according to the RF videos tuning isn't any harder with heavy, high foc arrows, of course he does recommend moving up in spine stiffness. In my limited experience I have noticed a big difference between shooting my normal 425gr carbon hunting arrows and my ancient 579gr xx75 2216 with 4" feathers. The bow is noticeably quieter and doesn't feel so "high strung", sort of like it isn't working so hard to shoot the heavier arrows. It feels as if the heavier arrow is more efficient in using/absorbing the bows energy compared to the lighter weight arrows. Shots at 25yds are hitting an inch and a half lower than the lighter carbons. Again, these are my preliminary findings based on recent outings with my equipment.
I'm in the early stages experimenting with heavier arrows but according to the RF videos tuning isn't any harder with heavy, high foc arrows, of course he does recommend moving up in spine stiffness. In my limited experience I have noticed a big difference between shooting my normal 425gr carbon hunting arrows and my ancient 579gr xx75 2216 with 4" feathers. The bow is noticeably quieter and doesn't feel so "high strung", sort of like it isn't working so hard to shoot the heavier arrows. It feels as if the heavier arrow is more efficient in using/absorbing the bows energy compared to the lighter weight arrows. Shots at 25yds are hitting an inch and a half lower than the lighter carbons. Again, these are my preliminary findings based on recent outings with my equipment.
I think it was @Weldabeast, who posted in another thread, a video of a fella demonstrating the difference in arrow drop with varying weights with a bow being shot from a machine with arrows ranging from 450 to 700grs or so. Point being that at a range of 35yds from a 70# bow the difference between a 450gr up to 600gr was a 2" drop at point of impact. I know not everyone shoots at 70#'s and 35yds is the limit for most of us but it proves the "heavy arrow lob trajectory" is not as pronounced as it is made out to be especially at closer deer ranges.
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Have you tried tapered carbon shafts? They improve FOC and they correct fast coming out of the bow. I love my Grizzlystik shafts.
DaWiz9578
Well-Known Member
I like the idea of tapered shafts, my only concern when I was starting was if I was going to go all in full weight/FOC maximization and start with full length shafts and get into cutting the shafts in order to tune. Then you run into cutting from one end vs the other and having to do that on all of them...then I realized I was making a mountain out of a mole hill and still just went with regular shafts and decided to dumb it down a bit. reached out to ranch fairy and be brought me back to earth. I have a tendency to overthink myself into stupidity.
I just adjusted tip weight.
I was shooting 175 gr heads and they usually flew okay but were more critical of my form. I switched to 150s and they fly better. Granted, my FOC is more forward with the 175s, but I still get good penetration with my current 150 set up...shooting 52# recurve 26.5" draw. 550gr total.
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