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Grizzlystik broadheads (arrow build time :)

Kurt

Kurt

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2018
Messages
2,331
Location
Massachusetts
I'm looking to rebuild my arrows for next year and want to know if anyone uses Grizzlystik single bevel broadheads, or the Silver Flame line of double bevel broadheads from Grizzlystik? Heck you might as well let me know if anyone's using the Momentum TDT shafts, or the T-64 shafts from Easton while we're at it. Another head I was looking at are the single bevels from Cutthroat broadheads. If anyone has any wisdom they'd like to share I'm all ears. Thanks in advance. I'm looking to increase the penetration efficiency of my arrows, and I figured I'd start now while the subject is fresh in my mind. I am also interested in having a conversation about total arrow weight and FOC. I know that more is better but I'm interested in knowing what everyones' thoughts are on what's enough, and what if anything is to much. I don't shoot bull moose, or cape buffalo, but I have been known to hit some bones on a deer. Yes I'm one of those guys that don't hit exactly where I aim every single time, so I'm looking for insurance. I almost always hunt from a tree and I know for a fact that I love the low exit wound, even if it's only an inch wide. I shoot a Bowtech Reign 6 at 72# and I shoot a 28 inch arrow.
 
Man you’re reading my mind. Same reasons you listed. Just bought the test pack from grizzly - 125 grain massi and 150 grain silver flame. Going to borrow the 200 gr massi from a buddy of mine along with the grizzly tapered arrows and the Victory VAP TKO 300s with the 95 gr stainless steel inserts. Going to try out different combinations and see what flies best.

Currently shooting FMJ 340s with a 125 G5 Montec, @ 536 grains, but after researching the single bevels really excited to see them in action.

Very interested in following this thread as it plays out. Will provide updates as I go.
 
ericabbott said:
Man you’re reading my mind. Same reasons you listed. Just bought the test pack from grizzly - 125 grain massi and 150 grain silver flame. Going to borrow the 200 gr massi from a buddy of mine along with the grizzly tapered arrows and the Victory VAP TKO 300s with the 95 gr stainless steel inserts. Going to try out different combinations and see what flies best.

Currently shooting FMJ 340s with a 125 G5 Montec, @ 536 grains, but after researching the single bevels really excited to see them in action.

Very interested in following this thread as it plays out. Will provide updates as I go.
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I read your PM before I read your post. How are you getting to 536 grains?
 
I shoot 28" Alaska Grizzly stick Sitka shafts which they are not making any longer but, knowing those guys, I have to think their latest shafts are every bit as effective.
I shoot their Samauri single bevs 150 grain with brass inserts.
My total arrow weight is around 570 gr shot from my 52# Allegheny Mountain recurve.
Its working well for me. I dont remember what my FOC is...maybe 17% if Im remembering correctly? Don't quote me on the 17%.
I did shoot Eclipse single bevs for years. They were okay but I like the Samurai better...except for the price. They ain't cheap!
 
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Here's a question...... If I'm going for, lets say, 250gr broadhead with a 100 gr brass or SS insert how do I go about getting the right spined arrow if the selection chart only goes up to a 150 gr point weight? Using the Gold tip selection chart how would I know if I needed to jump up from the 300s to the 250s or all the way to the 200s?
 
Allegheny Tom said:
I shoot 28" Alaska Grizzly stick Sitka shafts which they are not making any longer but, knowing those guys, I have to think their latest shafts are every bit as effective.
I shoot their Samauri single bevs 150 grain with brass inserts.
My total arrow weight is around 570 gr shot from my 52# Allegheny Mountain recurve.
Its working well for me. I dont remember what my FOC is...maybe 17% if Im remembering correctly? Don't quote me on the 17%.
I did shoot Eclipse single bevs for years. They were okay but I like the Samurai better...except for the price. They ain't cheap!
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Hey Tom, I'm seeing 125s and 200s in the samauri. Have you ever looked at or used the Cutthroat broadheads?
 
I'd think the ethics half out would be an excellent choice for putting that much weight up front, and maintaining integrity.
 
I can't speak to those broadheads from personal use but from what I've read you can't go wrong with any of the ones you mentioned. I think Dr. Ashby's bone breaking threshold (break through any part of the shoulder) was a 650 grain total arrow weight. The higher you go the larger your pin gaps will be and the more crucial your range estimation will be. You have to find a balance that works for you. FOC is helpful but I think it is more important for traditional archery than for a compound. I am committed to trad right now but if I went back to the compound I would probably try to get a 550 grain set up. I know Garret from DIY sportsman has some good videos about shooting heavy set ups that might give some good insight.
 
I have had good luck with the Grizzly broadheads over the last decade or so. Pretty cost-effective and more than solid enough for a whitetail. When I first started using them I was pushing 650 grains but in hindsight that was just overkill and my pin gap was a little out of control. I have since moved down to 550, then 500 and now I have settled at 450 for the last few years. I have not had a problem with any of those weights completely penetrating a deer. I shoot a 55lb compound so not the most powerful setup.
 
michigandrake said:
I have had good luck with the Grizzly broadheads over the last decade or so. Pretty cost-effective and more than solid enough for a whitetail. When I first started using them I was pushing 650 grains but in hindsight that was just overkill and my pin gap was a little out of control. I have since moved down to 550, then 500 and now I have settled at 450 for the last few years. I have not had a problem with any of those weights completely penetrating a deer. I shoot a 55lb compound so not the most powerful setup.
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I was thinking with my bow at 70# having arrows in the mid 500s.
 
I’ve used both the GrizzlyStik Masai heads and the Silver Flames you mentioned as well as the Cutthroat 150 RH bevel heads. All have spun really well out of the package and fly well too, the one thing that made me switch to Iron Wills was the ability or inability to resharpen the heads effectively which in my opinion is hugely important if your going to spend big money for 3 broadheads. The cutthroats design makes them tricky to fit in a KME or Wicked Edge vise style sharpener, although the steal is so soft (56HRC) that it’s not bad to do by hand. Single bevels are notorious for holding good edge geometry for a “few” resharpening sessions and then they start morphing into a new shape with a more rounded off tip - especially the Cutthroats. The Grizzlystiks are a little harder so edge retention is a little bit better. I merry my Iron Wills with Day Six shafts and I don’t see myself switching systems for a long time and my customers are doing the same lately.


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Save your money and get a dozen gold tip hunter 300 spine. A dozen.246 100 grain brass inserts and 125 grain Magnus Snuffer or stingers. It will be around 525-535 total and under $150 for everything. They work great together. I’ve been using this for 2 years and killed 5 deer so far at all angles and through the shoulder etc.
 
3 rivers arrow chart goes up to 200 grain heads. I’m toying with the idea of shooting some heavy arrows next year also. I used hypodermic trypans this year and 2 of 3 performed perfectly. The one that didn’t was my fault because I hit the shoulder. It’s kind of a tough call for me. The ones I hit right fell in sight. By shooting a heavier arrow I could possibly put a 2”x6” section of vitals back into play as a kill shot. Of course that isn’t a full guarantee but a possibility. That has the potential to add 12 square inches of kill zone. At the same time if you figure the cut size of a 2” range it adds a half an inch all the way around the zone. That adds roughly double what you lose by not being to shoot the shoulder bone. So if you’re a excellent shot but want to be able to shoot a quartering to shot the heavy cut on contact single bevels may do what you need. If you’re just an ok shot with near misses you would probably kill more deer with mechanicals.
 
I started with the stiffest spine offered with the cheap victory arrow (350) and did 6 100gr brass and 6 200gr as. I bought a field point test kit and started shooting different weights till I found the one that shot to my liking as far as drop at distance and you can just tell when you are close to the point were your arrow is just flying right.... Hard to describe but to me in my head the bow it able to deliver it's energy into the arrow more effectively. I know that probably isn't true but you'll see it in the arrow flight especially bare shaft. They are just like laser beams. Once I had that weight it was just buy the right weight kill heads. I am currently still under my ''sweetspot'' weight..... Gotta win the lottery to buy broadheads....I I also saw before season started there was hunting saddle lead times on some of the heavy broadheads
 
Kurt said:
Hey Tom, I'm seeing 125s and 200s in the samauri. Have you ever looked at or used the Cutthroat broadheads?
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I have not used Cutthroats.
Alaska Bowhunter Supply does seem to change what they offer a lot. I know they stopped the Samurai in Left bevel (which is what I use). Maybe they don't have them in 150s at all anymore.
That's a shame. I would buy more.

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