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Heavy arrow build thread

After page 7, I made a jump to 14. There wasn't much traction gained on spinning inserts, so I'll comment on some things in this thread that are being over-complicated.

Spinning inserts allow the shaft to gain rotational speed faster, allowing them to stabilize flight in a shorter distance. However, this implies the inserts are spinning perfectly, unimpeded by hot melt, dried blood, dirt, excessive friction, etc.

A free spinning shaft will not aid in the rotational power of a single bevel broadhead. The forward momentum is what provides the massive majority of twisting force. However, think about the mass of the arrow shaft spinning, aiding in the rotation of the broadhead. Small, but measurable. On a much larger scale, the "Tea Cup" carnival ride pins you to the back of your seat when spinning fast. This same power is applied to your broadhead at initial impact with a fixed insert.

More steeply angled helical vanes DO increase drag and decrease arrow speed and max distance. Imagine if a plane wing was straight/parallel (that's a fighter jet, minimal lift force but very fast) or this / (exaggerated 747 wing or helical vane. Generates lift, or spin in an arrow). If the vane was very step helical, like capital I, it would literally be as aerodynamic as a brick wall. Straight vanes will ALWAYS be faster than helical vanes on the same arrow, but won't stabilize as well.

Five grains is insignificant to most whitetail hunter shooting 30 yards. In Bowmar's case, 5 grains can mean 4 inches of drop while shooting 65 yards at a water buffalo. If you want to nitpick five grains, weigh your individual vanes, nocks, inserts, and amount of glue or hotmelt you are using. there can be significant variances in those that add up to a lot with a finished arrow.

Also, Kurt, Fury From the Sky! I left 1-508 last year.
Hey Brother, thanks for your service. My son is enlisting this summer. Says he wants to be an Airborne Infantry solider. I'm starting to mess with feathers now. I may go straight 3' right wing feathers over 2" blazers. With my high foc I'm finding I don't need much steerage. But like the rest of my arrow system I want to be sure to build in some stability insurance, so I still may end up with 4" straight or slightly offset. feathers.
 
Shot my 1st buck in 20ish years last year with a flapper. Arrow deflected in him. I got him but was not impressed. I definitely want to get into a fixed head and different arrows. But this seems like an expensive chore to get done without buying all the equipment to build your own arrows.
 
I dont have that equipment..You just need to find a shop that will listen to what you want and they can get you on the right track. It will involve new arrows and broadheads,but other than that just some expertise. The arrows i am using have a 42 brass insert installed,and i have two screw in weights in there for and additional 80 grains. That is a great way to be able to still adjust your arrow weight after the insert is installed. I tuned mine for a 100 gr broadhead,but if i want to go to 150 without changing arrow weight i can just remove the 50 gr screw in weight. Or keep it in there for more FOC.
 
Shot my 1st buck in 20ish years last year with a flapper. Arrow deflected in him. I got him but was not impressed. I definitely want to get into a fixed head and different arrows. But this seems like an expensive chore to get done without buying all the equipment to build your own arrows.
If you need new arrows it isn't going to cost that much more. Inserts at 100 grain are about a buck a piece and points are reusable and not that much more for 150 or higher then 100 grainers.
Fletching your own arrows will save you money in the long run. The local shop charges a buck a vane. A dozen arrows re fletched cost 36 dollar or 48 dollars. A blitz cost 80 bucks and vanes are cheap.

New broad heads is really the investment but you can get 150 grain buzzcuts for the same price as mechanicals and they are a solid head with a great warranty and customer service.
 
I saw those and do like the all steel construction. Have you used these and how were they performing?
 
I did my new set up with cutthroats, I like them a lot and they have a great warranty. You break it, they replace it.
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I did my new set up with cutthroats, I like them a lot and they have a great warranty. You break it, they replace it.
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Snake, are those ethics outserts with your cutthroats. They look like a good fit.
 
They sure are, I got the SS insert outsert sets. 100gr insert, 50gr outsert and 125gr cutthroats. The ferrule matches nicely with the outsert.


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They sure are, I got the SS insert outsert sets. 100gr insert, 50gr outsert and 125gr cutthroats. The ferrule matches nicely with the outsert.


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thanks, i been thinking about this exact combo but wasn’t sure how well the cutthroat and ethics outsert would lineup together.
 
thanks, i been thinking about this exact combo but wasn’t sure how well the cutthroat and ethics outsert would lineup together.

You’ll be good man. Those are standard size arrows, gold tip velocity. These broadheads are great, they fly awesome. Can’t wait to sling them at something, hopefully a pig here before to long.

I was going to try kudupoints but I’ve seen pics with them and outserts but they didn’t match up and felt that would negatively effect the penetration which is the ultimate end goal of these set ups.

Happy with my choice.


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Ok starting to wrap my head around this a little better. The shop I bought my bow from sold me 6 Mayhem Hunter DS 350 spline arrows. I have 5 left. I have a Mathews Tatic 70#s 28.5" draw. Id really like to use these arrows up. Are they a safe starting point? Im going to shoot for 500-550 grain setup. Thanks.
 
Ok starting to wrap my head around this a little better. The shop I bought my bow from sold me 6 Mayhem Hunter DS 350 spline arrows. I have 5 left. I have a Mathews Tatic 70#s 28.5" draw. Id really like to use these arrows up. Are they a safe starting point? Im going to shoot for 500-550 grain setup. Thanks.
I think to weak for your setup.
 
I think to weak for your setup.

Agreed. You can always give it a shot but I would start at 300 spine. Center your bow up and shoot some different point weights and see what flys best. You could still try the 350 but might have to do some hefty tuning but who knows.


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So as a guy who doesnt want to get as carried away with this as RF I should be able to get a 300 spine with the least grains per inch cut
to my length, figure out that weight add on the weight of my broad head, add insert weight to get to my desired finish weight check FOC, make sure I can hit something with it and go hunting.
 
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So as a guy who doesnt want to get as carried away with this as RF I should be able to get a 300 spline arrow with the least grains per inch cut
to my length, figure out that weight add on the weight of my broad head, add insert weight to get to my desired finish weight check FOC, make sure I can hit something with it and go hunting.

More or less. That’s what I did but before I started I centered up my rest and got my bow back to center. Then I bare shaft tested different point weights to see what my bow shot best. 275 was perfect bullet holes so that’s what I went with. I bought 1 GT velocity 300 spine and cut the fletching off and the 200-300gr test kit from ethics to start it off and used a gt hunter 340 I had already. Once I found out what worked I made my plan and ordered inserts and got some more velocity arrows and tuned them all.
Remember your trying to find the best arrow that shoots from your bow, not trying to make crazy adjustments to your bow to shoot that arrow.

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So as a guy who doesnt want to get as carried away with this as RF I should be able to get a 300 spine with the least grains per inch cut
to my length, figure out that weight add on the weight of my broad head, add insert weight to get to my desired finish weight check FOC, make sure I can hit something with it and go hunting.

It would be fairly easy for you to add an unsafe amount of weight up front with your draw length, 70 pound bow and .300 spine. Certainly doable but don't get carried away.

You can easily input your numbers to ensure you're GTG. Archers Advantage is online software and the most reasonably priced that I'm aware of; less than $15/month.
 
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Just wanted to share my build thus far. I need to tune my arrows for my broadheads but I'm shooting bare shaft bullet holes.

I'm shooting 65 lbs at 26.5" draw. My arrows are the Victory Vforce 350 spines cut to 26". I found that 300-325 grains up front works best so I have 200 grain inserts from Ethics and 125 grain broadheads. Going with Magnus Stingers and RMS Cutthroats. Still trying to figure out what fletching to go with. I'm testing out my AAE Max Hunters and Bohning Heats this weekend. But as of right now it's looking like my total arrow weight will be around 585 grains.
 
Just wanted to share my build thus far. I need to tune my arrows for my broadheads but I'm shooting bare shaft bullet holes.

I'm shooting 65 lbs at 26.5" draw. My arrows are the Victory Vforce 350 spines cut to 26". I found that 300-325 grains up front works best so I have 200 grain inserts from Ethics and 125 grain broadheads. Going with Magnus Stingers and RMS Cutthroats. Still trying to figure out what fletching to go with. I'm testing out my AAE Max Hunters and Bohning Heats this weekend. But as of right now it's looking like my total arrow weight will be around 585 grains.

The lighter the better for FOC. If your tunes good fletchings won’t matter.


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