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Heavy arrow build thread

I’m not finding any .250 or .300 spine arrows locally, However I have an old “Magnus bull head” arrow that’s a GT 75/95. Can anyone tell me the spine of those?
 
SnakeEater said:
The lighter the better for FOC. If your tunes good fletchings won’t matter.


Sent from parts unknown
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Remember the wise words of @Swampsniper, the fletch is for correction/stabilization of human error in hunting situations, give yourself plenty of stabilization insurance. Think of how you hunt and and remember it's different when your hanging off the side of the tree twisted up like a pretzel, or shooting bullet holes in paper. Not his words exactly but you get the idea. I'm building the best hunting arrow for me. I know I don't have the best form so I need to build in a little extra, and I keep my yardage short so I can add a little bit of feather length, or I can throw in a little offset, or some helical if I need it. This is where I'm at in my heavy arrow build. My plan is to go into the summer and shoot a bunch from the saddle with as many feather/vane configurations as I can to pick the one I feel works best for me. I want as much stabilization as I can get without all, or as little as possible of the speed robbing, noise producing effects of to much feather. Yes I'm leaning hard towards feathers because they are lighter and more efficient. "Feathers are for flyin." I've shot feathers in the past but went to vanes when I went low profile heads and then expandables.
 
Kurt said:
Remember the wise words of @Swampsniper, the fletch is for correction/stabilization of human error in hunting situations, give yourself plenty of stabilization insurance. Think of how you hunt and and remember it's different when your hanging off the side of the tree twisted up like a pretzel, or shooting bullet holes in paper. Not his words exactly but you get the idea. I'm building the best hunting arrow for me. I know I don't have the best form so I need to build in a little extra, and I keep my yardage short so I can add a little bit of feather length, or I can throw in a little offset, or some helical if I need it. This is where I'm at in my heavy arrow build. My plan is to go into the summer and shoot a bunch from the saddle with as many feather/vane configurations as I can to pick the one I feel works best for me. I want as much stabilization as I can get without all, or as little as possible of the speed robbing, noise producing effects of to much feather. Yes I'm leaning hard towards feathers because they are lighter and more efficient. "Feathers are for flyin." I've shot feathers in the past but went to vanes when I went low profile heads and then expandables.
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Your right, and it will help with human error but a high foc or extreme foc arrow have more forgiveness in form already bc of the shorter lever arm. With that it should require much less assistance from fletchings so smaller fletchings will still help to stabilize as they’re meant to and by helping increase foc. I have noticed shooting my new arrow set up that I can actually intentionally torque my bow and watch the arrow quickly snap straight and hit my aiming point or darn close. I have not tried that with broadheads on yet though not have I tried intentionally doing this with lighter arrows but I feel like I’m getting more forgiveness in my shooting. All that being said I am not shooting the lightest fletchings out there, 2” blazer vanes that came on gt velocity arrows.
 
SnakeEater said:
Your right, and it will help with human error but a high foc or extreme foc arrow have more forgiveness in form already bc of the shorter lever arm. With that it should require much less assistance from fletchings so smaller fletchings will still help to stabilize as they’re meant to and by helping increase foc. I have noticed shooting my new arrow set up that I can actually intentionally torque my bow and watch the arrow quickly snap straight and hit my aiming point or darn close. I have not tried that with broadheads on yet though not have I tried intentionally doing this with lighter arrows but I feel like I’m getting more forgiveness in my shooting. All that being said I am not shooting the lightest fletchings out there, 2” blazer vanes that came on gt velocity arrows.
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That's why I'm leaning towards feathers, much lighter to protect FoC, and more efficient so I can use less and still have my insurance. It is hard to believe that those little blazers weigh so much.
 
Kurt said:
That's why I'm leaning towards feathers, much lighter to protect FoC, and more efficient so I can use less and still have my insurance. It is hard to believe that those little blazers weigh so much.
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Not a bad idea at all, I was honestly thinking about doing the same. Theyre 6gr per vane so 18gr for the 3 blazers. Them plus luminoks are keeping my FOC at 21 but that’s plenty good for me at this point. I’ve got multiple little projects under way and I plan on getting a jig and starting to refletch the arrows I have and fletch my own from here on out as one of those projects. Still haven’t decided on what vanes or feathers to use. Let me know how you make out if you go with feathers, I’ve only shot vanes with a compound but I’m not afraid to change things up.


Sent from parts unknown
 
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Kurt said:
That's why I'm leaning towards feathers, much lighter to protect FoC, and more efficient so I can use less and still have my insurance. It is hard to believe that those little blazers weigh so much.
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The fact that a feathers barbs moves independently allow it conform and it less likely to go crazy off course if it contacts a little twig or thick grass is the main advantage IMO....its a bonus that they help keep foc higher..
 
Weldabeast said:
The fact that a feathers barbs moves independently allow it conform and it less likely to go crazy off course if it contacts a little twig or thick grass is the main advantage IMO....its a bonus that they help keep foc higher..
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That’s a huge plus for me, had an arrow hit a twig and go way off course last year. Bad hit, never found that doe and it still bothers me.


Sent from parts unknown
 
Are there any suggestions to where a guy could order a few heavy spined arrows right now? When I last checked 3 rivers was OOS.
 
Sirius Archery has arrow test kits you can order as few as 3 arrows. They’ll even cut them for you if you like.

www.siriusarchery.com

SIRIUS ARROW CUSTOM BUILD - add on service, shaft purchase required

*Price includes vanes and wraps** Sirius is currently working on a full line of custom builds. This service offers the following: -Spine Indexing and sorting -Arrow cutting and squaring -Insert installation (24hr cure epoxy for internal fitting components. Outsert sleeves are bonded with Bohning...
www.siriusarchery.com
 
Alright yall. Tuned my primary bow awhile ago with 607gr TAW arrows and I'm completely happy with the finished combination. The thing shoots like a dream!

With all this time at home, turned my attention to my backup bow. As you can see from the pictures, the point of impact is STELLAR. What I'm having a problem with is the high rear-end of the bare shafts. There's a picture in Easton's tuning guide that says the issue is that my nocking point is too high on the string. So, I've lowered and lowered it over and over but the rear end it still crazy high. I've even gone in the opposite direction and raised it without success. Been banging my head against this for some time now and I'd like a different view point. Please view the pictures and let me know what yall think.

Bow specs:
New Breed Genetic
27in DL
53lb DW
Whisker biscuit rest

Arrow specs:
29in Victory V Force Gamer (.350 spine)
575gr TAW (bare)
598gr TAW (fletched)

2020-04-02 11.17.36.jpg2020-04-02 11.19.55.jpg2020-04-02 11.20.26.jpg
 
Interesting,poi is so good and angle is so bad. This is above my knowledge level,but i am very curious.
 
Red Beard said:
Alright yall. Tuned my primary bow awhile ago with 607gr TAW arrows and I'm completely happy with the finished combination. The thing shoots like a dream!

With all this time at home, turned my attention to my backup bow. As you can see from the pictures, the point of impact is STELLAR. What I'm having a problem with is the high rear-end of the bare shafts. There's a picture in Easton's tuning guide that says the issue is that my nocking point is too high on the string. So, I've lowered and lowered it over and over but the rear end it still crazy high. I've even gone in the opposite direction and raised it without success. Been banging my head against this for some time now and I'd like a different view point. Please view the pictures and let me know what yall think.

Bow specs:
New Breed Genetic
27in DL
53lb DW
Whisker biscuit rest

Arrow specs:
29in Victory V Force Gamer (.350 spine)
575gr TAW (bare)
598gr TAW (fletched)

View attachment 26693View attachment 26695View attachment 26696
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There are a few things to look at. It can be form, bow timing, or you need nock point or rest moved. You have already tired the nock point adjustment. You could try raising your rest. My other though is it could be your anchor hand. If you put a lot of pressure low or in the palm area try to put more pressure high and more in the throat or vise versa depending on your form. My guess is that it is bow timing are your cams hitting at the same time? See if either of those make a difference. Also is the target set up on a table so that it is chest or shoulder high.
 
Yes sir.

Is anyone else tuning these heavy arrows with a whisker biscuit? My other bow has a dropaway. Trying to rule out the biscuit as a possibility of inducing this...
 
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