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Heavy-ish arrow build help

J

justwcc

Member
Joined
Dec 24, 2020
Messages
44
I need some advice on building heavy-ish arrows. Last year I half unintentionally built some rather heavy arrows (725gn taw with 21.4% foc). They shoot awesome and I can’t wait to try them out this year, but I went to a local 3D archery shoot and realized a few drawbacks to this setup. The biggest is the limitation to the range that I can shoot with the ezv sight due to the fact that 70lbs 28in draw bow only throws the arrows at 225 fps limiting me to 50 yards at the maximum. This is fine for where I hunt as my maximum shot distance might be 40 yards, but I am thinking about going out west and doing an archery pronghorn hunt and feel I need to stretch my shooting distance just a little bit. I want to maintain the 200gn IWSB broadheads from my current setup, but I can’t find any info on static spine calculations to give me a starting point for that much weight up front. Also I have a goal weight of between 550-600 gn taw but not hard set on the upper limit.
 
How did you set up your 725s? Did you do any testing? Or just build them?
Are you trying to use same arrows? Or a whole new set up?
Screw a 100gr field point into your arrows and see how it bare shafts. That would be a starting point for me. What spine are your arrows now?
 
Not exactly sure what you’re asking if you don’t mind me saying.

For reference i shoot Gold Tip Platinum Peirce 250 spine. 200 Grains point and I’m getting 560 Grains on what I believe is a 28” arrow. Bullet hole through paper and shoot great! I’ve shot my pin set at 20 yards at 25, and 30 yards without moving it and in a pinch I’d use my 20 at 30 no problem. Setting it at 25 I can shoot 0 to 30 with almost no difference.

I hope this answers your question! If not let me know. I used to work at an archery shop and built a lot of arrow setups. Still no expert though. Ha
 
A slider sight, a sharpie, and an afternoon shooting u could easily mark out a yardage tape with all ur current equipment. Might be cheaper than buying all new arrow stuff.
I built a half dozen 350spine that were 550gr. 125 broadhead, 100gr insert....29". My bow was probably 65pd draw at that time. Obviously u may experience different....but I was able to get them to tune but that was all the forward weight they could take....if I put on a 150gr field point it got crazy. I'm just a weekend warrior so take my opinion lightly...but if it was me trying to arrow like u describe I'd start with a 300 spine.....but if it were me...I'd just get a slider and use what I already have...the heavier arrows are loosing less energy at longer distances.
 
I am using 250 spine Sirius orion's. 85 grain of insert and a 200 grain point. Right at 580 gr. Shooting good out of a 65 lb elite kure at 28.5 draw.
 
Black Eagle Rampage 300 cut to 27” with 100 grain focos and a 125 point will get you around 500 with 17%ish foc. Depends fletching where you end up. Or 75 grain hit with 40 grain collar should be around 515.
 
I started with a Easton fmj t64 7.9 cut to 28.25 inches and was gonna do the standard aluminum inserts ant 100gn points but I was way over spined so I ordered both RF point kits from ethics as well as the the 100gn ss inserts at the same time. Replaced all the aluminum inserts with the stainless at the full 100gn then I went through all the points from 100 thru 300 bare shaft in paper at 21 yds after nock tuning. I got bullet holes in paper at 200-250gn point plus the 100gn insert. Then 4 fletched with heat vanes that is how I ended up with what I have. I want to change the shaft and insert, but keep the same broadhead weight. I need to figure out where to start spine wise in order to lower the overall weight as the tapered t64 shafts I started my setup with have no true fixed gpi or static spine as the taper alters both of these as it is cut shorter. Stiffer spine if cut from the front as mine are and weaker spine if cut from the rear of the arrow. All the spine charts I have found only account for the standard 13ish gn aluminum insert weight and 100gn point vs the 200gn point I want to use and possibility of a 25-75gn insert/outsert
 
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Archers advantage is $12 for a year, it'll let you enter all your bow specs and play with different arrow configurations. For antelope I'd lighten your arrow setup to 450 to 500gr. That'll kill anything in North America with a good fixed blade. And with antelope there's a good chance you'll need to be able to shoot 60 yards proficiently.
 
arrowsender said:
Archers advantage is $12 for a year, it'll let you enter all your bow specs and play with different arrow configurations. For antelope I'd lighten your arrow setup to 450 to 500gr. That'll kill anything in North America with a good fixed blade. And with antelope there's a good chance you'll need to be able to shoot 60 yards proficiently.
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This!! Your arrows are awesome and fine. You just need to build a totally new arrow for that hunt and adjust the EZV insert. Write down somewhere your two arrow formulas and data like a sniper does with his dope card for different ammo. Same gun. Hope this makes sense. If not please PM me.
 
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An axis 300 cut to 26.75 with standard insert, 200 grain head and feathers should be pretty close but might still be a touch weak. Prolly be easier to start with a 250 shaft.
 
Bowtie747 said:
Not exactly sure what you’re asking if you don’t mind me saying.

For reference i shoot Gold Tip Platinum Peirce 250 spine. 200 Grains point and I’m getting 560 Grains on what I believe is a 28” arrow. Bullet hole through paper and shoot great! I’ve shot my pin set at 20 yards at 25, and 30 yards without moving it and in a pinch I’d use my 20 at 30 no problem. Setting it at 25 I can shoot 0 to 30 with almost no difference.

I hope this answers your question! If not let me know. I used to work at an archery shop and built a lot of arrow setups. Still no expert though. Ha
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^^This^^

Probably around 16% FOC? Solid deer hunting arrow.
 
Tbh I haven’t done the math to know what my FOC is. I need to do that. Thanks though! I’m considering playing with a heavier setup on the side haha my sight allows me to setup two arrow setups and not effect the other.
 
I live MT. Lots of speed goats where I live. From experience, Average shots are long unless your on water hole. I would take your set up into the elk woods anyday. For antelope? Probably not. 450-500gr would be plenty. Use the BH of your choice. Antelope are pretty wimpy so doesn't take much to pass thru.
 
So I ended up with black eagle carnivores in a 250 spine. I bare shaft tuned an arrow to see what it likes up front and ended up with an insert/point weight combo of between 240-265 gn for a finish arrow weight of 555-580 gn. That should put me speed wise where I want to be 260-270 real world speed. Now the next issue I have is determining if I need to run the ethics al or as inserts at 40 or 55gn respectively. I know that I have to use a 10gn point washer so that the IW broadhead doesn’t bottom out in the insert. Any suggestions. Down 170-205 gn taw.
 
similar to my set up....I cut 330 Easton bonfires from the front and stiffened the spine a good amount and im shooting 515 out of a 70lb now. 28.5" draw. nock tune, bareshaft and broad head tune. everything mint. definitely want to go with a slider sight for next year tho. eliminate a little pin clutter. my arrow also is 270-280 fps.... ill find my numbers and post it.
 
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