ThePennsylvanian
Well-Known Member
As someone that has absolutely no xbow experience, I'm feeling a little anxiety with the sighting process, but I figured if I can figure out how to sight in a bow when I was 12, I can figure this out!
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Hickory Creek Koolaid
- Thread starter Nutterbuster
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I had very little xbow experience as of last year also but it's like sighting in a rifle. The only reason I switched scopes was the stock one was harder to see out of in low light.
Just make sure to check and re-check string/scope clearances. There's plenty of adjustment with the mounts on the bow if you find yourself maxing out windage or elevation on the scope too!
Yeah like Jtaylor said it's just like a rifle. If you are aiming at the bullseye and hit 3 inches left, always chase your shot with your scope adjustments. So leave your arrow in the target and then while your scope is aiming at the bull again, turn that windage knob until the crosshairs are sitting on your arrow which is over 3 inches to the left. Your next shot should then be much much closer. Also make sure to not only locktite the scope rings, but also EVERY single Allen screw that is holding the scope riser and that whole assembly together to where it meets the stock. I found out mine was definitely moving while I was siting it in.
DB4x4
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Wife ordered one for us for our anniversary. Just showed up today. I was just about to come ask about this. Every time I thought I had it almost dialed in, it seemed to start drifting on me again.
Any other tips for fine tuning accuracy?
Put a nut on the threaded end sticking out of the attachment between the stock and the bow.
This ^^^^^^^
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What broadheads are you using with it for gobblers? Are you shooting the stock scope or did I see you upgraded to something else? Are you at the shipped 125lbs or did you max it to 150? Did you see noticeable impact differences between the two poundages if you did increase its draw weight? Finally, are you going with the standard 23" arrows or did you add some insert weight and go heavy?
DB4x4
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Perfect, I remembered something about a lock nut, but I couldn't find the post with the details.
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I'm using Tooth of the Arrow 100 gr. 4 blades since they worked well during deer season and it's still sighted in with those broadheads.
I went with the recommendation from LoadedLimbs for scopes here: https://saddlehunter.com/community/index.php?threads/hickory-creek-koolaid.27820/post-439988. I upgraded from the stock scope with a Hawke XB30 and even though I didn't have issues once I put the lock nut on with accuracy from the stock scope, it was still difficult seeing in low light with the stock scope. The closer you can get the scope to the center of the arrow while on the rest by moving the adjustable mounting hardware, the more accurate you'll be and more adjustment on the actual scope you'll have (but as said before make sure it clears the string).
I maxed it out almost immediately when I got it and didn't notice too much of a difference at shorter distances like 20 yds. or so but as I moved back it amplified this a little more so I adjusted the scope accordingly.
I'm just using the standard 23" arrows. It blew right through the deer I shot this year except one which was a hard quartering away shot and the broadhead and part of the arrow still ended up protruding out of the opposite shoulder a bit (these are decent sized midwestern deer too).
DB4x4
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I added the lock nut to the end as suggested. I'm still struggling to get this thing to group consistently. Seems like it just keeps drifting.
I'm about to Loctite the scope mount screws. Any other pro tips before I drive myself insane?
I'm about to Loctite the scope mount screws. Any other pro tips before I drive myself insane?
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Wrap some electrical tape or cut a piece of shrink tubing to fit around the peg that slips into the riser to take up slop in the machining. Mine fits snug together without even tightening the two nuts.
Grab the front handle and the back handle and rotate clockwise with one and counterclockwise with the other. If you can torque the two or feel slop, you're still not tight enough.
I noticed that after a lot of shooting, there were multiple Allen screws coming loose. I just ended up lock titing ALL of them and getting them nice and super tight. I think there are 5 different sizes so I made myself a little Allen wrench go bag with all the correct sizes in case I ever needed to do anything in the field. Other than that, I'd ask what your shooting rest is like when you are grouping? I've just been shooting off the right hand side of a tree while digging my left hand (holding the fore end grip) into the tree for solid support. Not quite as good as a lead sled but pretty solid for grouping. At least much better than standing their free hand. I am also using an after market scope (Hawke) as I read nothing good about the stock ones.
DB4x4
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I'm shooting from a solid base, so that's not the problem. I also had a number of Allen screws come loose at first, so I tightened and Loctited the "important" ones.
I then noticed the arrow rest was not perfectly aligned with the string, so I adjusted it and thought I had it figured out.
Then a few shots later, the groups started drifting again. Argghh. I eventually realized that 1 of the 3 included arrows seemed to be a flier to the right almost every time.
So I marked it with a sharpie and confirmed this to be the case. After taking it out of the rotation in hopes of eliminating another variable, I shot a couple of tight 2 shot groups.
...Then once again, the group opened up and started drifting from center.
At that point, my hands were getting pretty raw from cocking the bow so many times, so I gave up for the day.
After I added the lock nut to the front, there doesn't seem to be any more "slop"... So I'm kind of at a loss as to what to try next...
DB4x4
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Alright, I think I finally got this thing figured out. I remembered a bow I once owned that has a sweet spot in terms of poundage and accuracy. If you cranked it all the way up, it wouldn't group, but if you turned it down a couple of lbs, the groups would tighten up.
The mini came with a note saying it was factory set to 125 lbs, but I started to wonder if the limbs were adjusted exactly the same. So here's what I did:
I cranked it all the way up to max so both limbs were perfectly even. I tried a few shots at max, but my hands are so raw from cocking this thing 100x in the past 2 days, I decided to back off each limb 2 full turns to make it easier to draw.
This seems to be a sweet spot, at least for mine anyway. My groups immediately tightened up. I had to re-zero the scope, but that's easy once you finally get some consistency.
Groups at 25 yds:
The mini came with a note saying it was factory set to 125 lbs, but I started to wonder if the limbs were adjusted exactly the same. So here's what I did:
I cranked it all the way up to max so both limbs were perfectly even. I tried a few shots at max, but my hands are so raw from cocking this thing 100x in the past 2 days, I decided to back off each limb 2 full turns to make it easier to draw.
This seems to be a sweet spot, at least for mine anyway. My groups immediately tightened up. I had to re-zero the scope, but that's easy once you finally get some consistency.
Groups at 25 yds:
Awesome! Glad you figured it out. I wouldn't have even thought about that. I always just assume max poundage = most awesome. I am shooting heavier arrows and 150 grain heads so maybe that's why the 150 pound setting is grouping better on mine. Either way, glad you got it!
ThePennsylvanian
Well-Known Member
Got the mini yesterday, spent the evening shooting. I gotta say, i bought this with the intention of it being my weapon of choice for specific situations. like when i sneak into a wind row between fields and hunt from the ground, or when im in a hinky tree in a tight spot, or any other awkward situation i generally find myself in throughout the season. After shooting it last night close to 50 times, i am blown away with this thing.
first shot was at 6 yards, hit 1.5 inches high L/R was dead on, shot 5 more there, group was tight with me not touching the scope at all out of the box. i backed to 20, similar results, still about an inch high, but tight groups no change in L/R. i proceeded to just shoot and get familiar with it. Its comfortable, feels natural, easy to learn, lighter than i thought it would be, and certainly looks like a killer.
I had plans to swap the scope for a vortex crossfire xbow scope (already have in hand), and go with my favorite arrow victory RIP ev elite, but i am hesitant to go changing things at the moment. I wanted to set this bow up similar to my current bow shooting the above mentioned arrows, tipped with kudu contours. Swapping arrows would more than likely mean an arrow rest change, and replacing the arrow grips in the quiver as well. The stock arrows seem to be decent enough, although im no overly impressed with the fletching. bu they flew true out to 20 yards and grouped tight so i guess its an unfounded impression of the arrow.
The only "gripes" i have with the bow itself is the trigger and the attachment point. the trigger, its smooth, easy to attain without blindly searching for it, BUT its got side to side movement that you can hear when you shoot. i may need to see if i can find some thin nylon bushings to eliminate that. the attachment point is tight, i felt now slop as other have mentioned, but i do not like that it is round. i feel this can lead to movement, but again i also knew this going into purchasing the mini, as i read this entire thread prior to ordering. this is something that i can get over and plan on drilling and tapping it, and securing the threaded lug as many others have.
Overall i'm impressed, and can already see it being difficult for me to leave this at home and taking my compound, and its only been one day of shooting.
first shot was at 6 yards, hit 1.5 inches high L/R was dead on, shot 5 more there, group was tight with me not touching the scope at all out of the box. i backed to 20, similar results, still about an inch high, but tight groups no change in L/R. i proceeded to just shoot and get familiar with it. Its comfortable, feels natural, easy to learn, lighter than i thought it would be, and certainly looks like a killer.
I had plans to swap the scope for a vortex crossfire xbow scope (already have in hand), and go with my favorite arrow victory RIP ev elite, but i am hesitant to go changing things at the moment. I wanted to set this bow up similar to my current bow shooting the above mentioned arrows, tipped with kudu contours. Swapping arrows would more than likely mean an arrow rest change, and replacing the arrow grips in the quiver as well. The stock arrows seem to be decent enough, although im no overly impressed with the fletching. bu they flew true out to 20 yards and grouped tight so i guess its an unfounded impression of the arrow.
The only "gripes" i have with the bow itself is the trigger and the attachment point. the trigger, its smooth, easy to attain without blindly searching for it, BUT its got side to side movement that you can hear when you shoot. i may need to see if i can find some thin nylon bushings to eliminate that. the attachment point is tight, i felt now slop as other have mentioned, but i do not like that it is round. i feel this can lead to movement, but again i also knew this going into purchasing the mini, as i read this entire thread prior to ordering. this is something that i can get over and plan on drilling and tapping it, and securing the threaded lug as many others have.
Overall i'm impressed, and can already see it being difficult for me to leave this at home and taking my compound, and its only been one day of shooting.
DB4x4
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[mention]Vtbow [/mention] makes some great points. I definitely prefer the mini over the original that I owned for several years, but let’s take a closer look at my preferences in general.
Turkey gun: 12 ga T/C Encore with a 20” barrel. Yep, a 20” 12 Gauge shooting 3” mags at a total weight of 6 pounds 4 ounces. My shoulder takes a beating, but usually 2 or 3 shots per year.
Deer Rifle: T/C encore with 22” Bullberry custom .260 Remington wearing a Leupold Vx3 compact 3x9. 7.5 pounds and 38” long.
Squirrel rifle: Kidd Custom 10/22. 6.5 pounds and 36” long.
See the trend here. I like light and compact. The original HC in-line was just too long and heavy for my taste. It was super accurate and quiet, though. I also miss the square fittings.
How do you like that red dot on the mini? What yardage do you have yours sighted in for?
I absolutely love it. I have it sighted to be dead on at 26 yards.
ThePennsylvanian
Well-Known Member
Has anyone switched to the vortex? I have it I'm just reluctant to switch because I'd have to move the mount to ensure the string has the clearance. I'm probably over thinking it, but the stock scope is dead nuts on, but man it just alot going on with that reticle....
DB4x4
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I like @mtsrunner's idea of the red dot, especially for low light shooting... Early morning or dusk. Like you said though, the stock scope is on right now. Hard to rationalize changing something that works...