- Joined
- Jun 17, 2020
- Messages
- 455
Liking it? A lot of the reviews say it’s pretty heavy. Not a dealbreaker for me. Just wanted some insight. The bracket looks offset. Do you have to remove it to cock it? Thanks, MattYes I do with the lights
Liking it? A lot of the reviews say it’s pretty heavy. Not a dealbreaker for me. Just wanted some insight. The bracket looks offset. Do you have to remove it to cock it? Thanks, MattYes I do with the lights
Thanks, I always remove my quiver to hunt too. But it’s able to be cocked without removing the quiver also?I remove the quiver as soon as I get in the tree. Most times don't cock it until I am in the saddle anyways.
I do like it a lot. Some people will complain about the weight of a feather.
Did removing the string silencer help with accuracy or did you relocate it?After doing some more investigation I may have figured out some of the accuracy issue.
this top monkey tail may be hitting the illumination dial on the scope.
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If it stays on, it needs to go closer to D loop. May just take them off.
The mount and the picatinny rail both have some adjustment capability. When I mounted my RedDot on mine I played around with that to get the arrows hitting very close at ten yards just utilizing those "macro" adjustments. Then I went to 25 yards, checked arrow impact location on the target face relative to holding dead on the bullseye. If it were over 3" I would continue with making some macro adjustments with the base. Once within 3" I utilized my red dot adjustments to micro tune impact. I backed up to 30, 35 and 40 and was pleased at 40 I had minimal drop by holding dead on (approximately 3") I left everything the way it was. I shot a Gobbler last year at 13 yards with it and it "ran-flew" about 30 yards and died.Did removing the string silencer help with accuracy or did you relocate it?
I have a Hawk 3 power scope that I was thinking about installing but that cap on the left looks like a issue.
I removed the monkey tails. It did help. Honestly, that arrow is moving fast enough a little bit of "silencing" isn't gonna matter when I use it as a 30 yd and under tight quarters hunting from the ground weapon.Did removing the string silencer help with accuracy or did you relocate it?
I have a Hawk 3 power scope that I was thinking about installing but that cap on the left looks like a issue.
You shouldn't need the set screw. I used the knob bolt AND the nylon lock nut and neoprene washer on the end. Snugged it up perfect and took out any slop with just the knob bolt. Are you just wanting to get rid of the knob bolt completely?The machine has failed me as the search "this thread" isn't finding what I need...
For those that have replaced the hand knob bolt that holds stock to the riser with a set screw, what size set screw do I need?
The machine has failed me as the search "this thread" isn't finding what I need...
For those that have replaced the hand knob bolt that holds stock to the riser with a set screw, what size set screw do I need?
You shouldn't need the set screw. I used the knob bolt AND the nylon lock nut and neoprene washer on the end. Snugged it up perfect and took out any slop with just the knob bolt. Are you just wanting to get rid of the knob bolt completely?
I never took apart either.Yeah, I'm wanting to replace the knob bolt with a set screw. I don't plan on taking it apart very often...thought I read somewhere on this thread where people were doing that.
I replaced my knob with a set screw, then put the knob back with some blue loctite. I felt the knob gave some protection to the arrow rest mount when the HC was across my lap.Yeah, I'm wanting to replace the knob bolt with a set screw. I don't plan on taking it apart very often...thought I read somewhere on this thread where people were doing that.
I replaced my knob with a set screw, then put the knob back with some blue loctite. I felt the knob gave some protection to the arrow rest mount when the HC was across my lap.