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Hickory Creek Koolaid

So I took out the mini for a test run. I received 23" arrows with .100 grain field points. The field points are slightly larger in diameter than the arrow and I was having a very frustrating time trying to get the arrows out of my targets. I found some field points that were .125 grain and were the same size as the arrows and came out of the target much easier but I noticed the arrows flying like a corkscrew. My paperwork said the arrow's are 75-90 I don't know what that means?
Does anyone know what size these arrows have to be at 23" long? What I'm getting at is if I cut some 340's down to 23" will they be safe to shoot out of a 150# crossbow? I have 250's 300"s and 340"s any advice?
 
I experienced the same issue. The point or broadheads need to be the same diameter.
I am shooting the DCA arrows, 300 spine, 50 grain inserts and 175 grain tip. They fly great. I may bump the tips to 225 grain this summer and give them a try.
 
I experienced the same issue. The point or broadheads need to be the same diameter.
I am shooting the DCA arrows, 300 spine, 50 grain inserts and 175 grain tip. They fly great. I may bump the tips to 225 grain this summer and give them a try.

Thanks! I just cut down a couple 300. I'll play around with them and see what I get.
 
Thanks! I just cut down a couple 300. I'll play around with them and see what I get.
If you are cutting them down, arrow shaft is 22.5". 23" to the nock/ string. I've cut 300's and 250's already, they fly great.
 
If you are cutting them down, arrow shaft is 22.5". 23" to the nock/ string. I've cut 300's and 250's already, they fly great.

It's so much easier with a Xbow. I tried the 300 @ 23" bare shaft and found 225 grains up front shot bullet holes. I'm liking this but I got to say, practicing with this thing set at 150# and just using my hands to cock it, is rough on this old man.
 
It's so much easier with a Xbow. I tried the 300 @ 23" bare shaft and found 225 grains up front shot bullet holes. I'm liking this but I got to say, practicing with this thing set at 150# and just using my hands to cock it, is rough on this old man.
I have mine backed off I think 1 1/2 to 2 turns. Alot easier when cocking and the deer won't notice the difference.
 
Ya I don't know why I cranked it up. That may change let's see how long I torture myself.
LOL
Just be careful when your arms get a bit tired that you don't pull the string up away from the bow too much and derail it. I learned the hard way (but also then learned how easy it is to restring these bows) after doing that. Limbs seem fine/I'm not the first person to do this, but it wasn't the most pleasant feeling on my hands/forearm when it let go and slapped me
 
So I took out the mini for a test run. I received 23" arrows with .100 grain field points. The field points are slightly larger in diameter than the arrow and I was having a very frustrating time trying to get the arrows out of my targets. I found some field points that were .125 grain and were the same size as the arrows and came out of the target much easier but I noticed the arrows flying like a corkscrew. My paperwork said the arrow's are 75-90 I don't know what that means?
Does anyone know what size these arrows have to be at 23" long? What I'm getting at is if I cut some 340's down to 23" will they be safe to shoot out of a 150# crossbow? I have 250's 300"s and 340"s any advice?
I once had some slightly oversize field points that gave me problems on a block target. I chucked them in a drill and used some emery cloth to slightly re-shape and polish the back corner of the point, to smooth the transition to the shaft. In my imagination it worked OK, but that could have also been the block target starting to loosen up a bit after I shot it some more.
 
@swampbuck made a double finger tab for the mini on post 985. It works, using leather heavier than buckskin.

I’m thinking of a couple of rounded 3D printed tabs with finger groves might be a really fun project for this application. Not necessary while hunting, just for target shooting where many shots are fired.
 
Decided to use the Grim Reaper Razor Tip Whitetail Special 2-Inch 3 blades for turkeys in a few weeks with mine. Keeping everything factory except I added the split limb saver’s yesterday. Good to about 50 yds, which is only a touch less than my shotguns.
 
I just mounted the Vortex crossfire ii red dot on my mini. Really liking it. I tried both high and low mount, forward, middle and back and for my application thus far the high mount to the rear felt most natural and easiest to acquire without adjusting my head position. Shot yesterday with both eyes open and was impressed. Have not shot low light or longer distances yet so that could change my thinking. I hope not because really like the simplicity and how natural it feels for me. Thanks to all the guys that recommended this setup
 
Just started messing with the Mini. I found the scope is junk, the objective lens is very loose (it rattles) and can't be tightened but that's ok I have a Horton Storm so I took the scope from that and put it on. I also notices the string is slapping the scope (old and new) so I messed with the location of the scope. I had to mess with the rest it was too low and causing porpoising, and I was getting a 3" vertical tear in paper tuning. Checked all screws for being loose and everything was tight. I now have close to bullet holes. Has anyone had problems with the rest? I'm noticing some of my feathers are getting damaged from it. Mine was right up against the riser so I don't know if it had a little torque on it or not I moved it away from the riser so it's not hitting anymore. I'll keep an eye on my feathers for damage. I'll play more tomorrow.
 
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