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How does one go about cupping a saddle hunter's rear?

BackSpasm

Well-Known Member
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Joined
Apr 10, 2019
Messages
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Location
Tennessee
Sorry in advance to those of you who came here looking for dating advice.

I've made and been pleased with several DIY saddles and hunted in a few commercial models too. Still, I remain unsure exactly what "butt cupping technology" is or more specifically how it is built into a saddle. One of the big claims behind the new saddle-which-shall-not-be-named is that it is very comfortable to sit in due to it's shape. What is a butt-cupping design exactly and how is it created? Is it simply the shape cut out of the mesh or cloth body that determines cuppability? Maybe someone who has tested some new butt cuppers will be able to give some insight @EricS @flinginairos or those who have made them @ckossuth. Obviously the sit-drag style isn't a cupping seat and has parallel edges, but is the Wraptor a more cupped design @Bwhana? Genuinely interested to know how exactly a cupped shape is stitched. The kestrel clone I made seems to cup a bit and is very comfortable, but I want to know more about how this works and if there a specific process used to create this effect.

Thanks for the input in advance.
 
The kestrel had a lot of cup. They were able to achieve that with the multi panel construction. Somehow @ckossuth figured out how to build it out of a single piece. Since I do my sewing with a speedy stitcher I haven’t tried to reverse engineer it.
 
My Anderson is not cupped but lays flat. It is very comfortable due to the two panels that can be positioned independently of each other. I tried a commercial saddle and didn't like it. It always felt too small in the seat. IMO.
 
Fairly even weight distribution between the fabric of the saddle and the structural webbing.

That’s a pretty vague explanation....

I know what you mean but you can have even weight distribution in a sit drag in certain circumstances


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Says the guy that clicked the thread read the first sentence, and didn’t get dating advice. I did go hang from my saddle and get my rear cupped though so in the end who needs dating? I’m back now though...even got pants on this time.

-Chuck
 
Says the guy that clicked the thread read the first sentence, and didn’t get dating advice. I did go hang from my saddle and get my rear cupped though so in the end who needs dating? I’m back now though...even got pants on this time.

-Chuck

Pants optional


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Sorry in advance to those of you who came here looking for dating advice.

I've made and been pleased with several DIY saddles and hunted in a few commercial models too. Still, I remain unsure exactly what "butt cupping technology" is or more specifically how it is built into a saddle. One of the big claims behind the new saddle-which-shall-not-be-named is that it is very comfortable to sit in due to it's shape. What is a butt-cupping design exactly and how is it created? Is it simply the shape cut out of the mesh or cloth body that determines cuppability? Maybe someone who has tested some new butt cuppers will be able to give some insight @EricS @flinginairos or those who have made them @ckossuth. Obviously the sit-drag style isn't a cupping seat and has parallel edges, but is the Wraptor a more cupped design @Bwhana? Genuinely interested to know how exactly a cupped shape is stitched. The kestrel clone I made seems to cup a bit and is very comfortable, but I want to know more about how this works and if there a specific process used to create this effect.

Thanks for the input in advance.
The Wraptor (Anderson style) does not have cupping and doesn't need it. The independent sections allow for micro adjustment in placement and thus allows it to fit different shapes and sizes of rear ends and has been doing it for 25+ years. Adding a piece of fleece between the sections took it up another notch on comfort too. The Flex and Yarak are the only ones that feel close to the Anderson style so far, due to the adjustable pleats they offer. Everything else is just koolaid, but folks keep drinking it for some reason.
 
That’s a pretty vague explanation....

I know what you mean but you can have even weight distribution in a sit drag in certain circumstances


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Kind of intentionally vague because there are a many different ways to go about it. A saddle made of nothing more than fleece can nail it. That's like sitting your caboose in a cloud. Webbing alone can too. Modeling off production saddles, getting the right balance of fabrics and shape are vital. Changing the connection point of the bridge. Elasticity of the fabric vs. frame. Adjusters to high/low the pressure points. Many ways to skin the cat.
 
Kind of intentionally vague because there are a many different ways to go about it. A saddle made of nothing more than fleece can nail it. That's like sitting your caboose in a cloud. Webbing alone can too. Modeling off production saddles, getting the right balance of fabrics and shape are vital. Changing the connection point of the bridge. Elasticity of the fabric vs. frame. Adjusters to high/low the pressure points. Many ways to skin the cat.
YES YES YES YES
Everything he mentioned here is accurate as it gets. If one doesn't understand it they just simply don't understand it....and that's okay, doesn't mean anything. Saddle shape and orientation of how bridge loops are sewn in relation to said shape play a major role.
 
YES YES YES YES
Everything he mentioned here is accurate as it gets. If one doesn't understand it they just simply don't understand it....and that's okay, doesn't mean anything. Saddle shape and orientation of how bridge loops are sewn in relation to said shape play a major role.

Right but I posted this thread to discuss some of the ways this is accomplished! I want to hear about the details, I have made webbing only, mesh, and cordura saddles so I am fairly familiar with saddle construction and fit. I'm trying to have a discussion about the different elements of fit and techniques in saddle design. I like the idea of balancing fabric and shape and I think that elasticity plays a big role as well and that was good point by @elk yinzer . The more elastic single panel kestrel I made was considerably more comfortable than the cordura paneled kestral but based off the same template.
 
The Wraptor (Anderson style) does not have cupping and doesn't need it. The independent sections allow for micro adjustment in placement and thus allows it to fit different shapes and sizes of rear ends and has been doing it for 25+ years. Adding a piece of fleece between the sections took it up another notch on comfort too. The Flex and Yarak are the only ones that feel close to the Anderson style so far, due to the adjustable pleats they offer. Everything else is just koolaid, but folks keep drinking it for some reason.

This is an interesting take for sure. Don't you think though that maybe the extra fleece is providing some support and booty-cuppability that gives it the extra "notch" of comfort? Or is that attributed to the webbing digging in less?
 
This is an interesting take for sure. Don't you think though that maybe the extra fleece is providing some support and booty-cuppability that gives it the extra "notch" of comfort? Or is that attributed to the webbing digging in less?
The fleece is not necessary and I used a Wraptor without one more than the one with it this fall. The key to the Anderson style comfort and staying in place below the rump without riding up without is cupping is not relying on a single 1 3/4" strap to take all the weight as most commercial designs do ( I guess that could be loosley interpreted as cupping by some). The fleece mainly limits the maximum separation distance between the sections and provides a filler, much like the other saddles with mesh or cordura in their dead space. The difference between non fleece and fleece is more like 9.0 out of 10 vs. a 9.2 out if 10, noticeable, but not drastic. I see a mesh version coming soon that will have less give than fleece and will be interesting to see how that does.
 
Right but I posted this thread to discuss some of the ways this is accomplished! I want to hear about the details, I have made webbing only, mesh, and cordura saddles so I am fairly familiar with saddle construction and fit. I'm trying to have a discussion about the different elements of fit and techniques in saddle design. I like the idea of balancing fabric and shape and I think that elasticity plays a big role as well and that was good point by @elk yinzer . The more elastic single panel kestrel I made was considerably more comfortable than the cordura paneled kestral but based off the same template.

Okay then. Interested to see what you come up with.
 
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