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I think I found a gem. Singer sewing machine.

NMSbowhunter

Well-Known Member
SH Member
Joined
Jan 3, 2022
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I have been researching sewing machines since I decided to make my own saddle along the line of the Wraptor. From research on this site I narrowed my search down to a Singer 15-91 or a 201. I looked on Ebay but prices were significantly higher than folks were saying that I should be able to pick one up for.

I made some calls to some antique store the other day and made some inquiries. Several places said they had some old machines but no one seemed to know specifics. Today I drove by and took a look around. I found what I believe is a Singer 15-91 in what seems to be good condition. The wiring looks very good, it runs (did not run it much because I want to make sure it is properly oiled, etc.) and even the light works. From a cursory look it seems to need a new tire on the bobbin winder and a cover for the light. It looks to have very little use and looks great. I gave $42.00 out the door. I'm pretty stoked. Any experts out there take a look and tell me your opinion.
 

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I’ve got one similar! They will sew and sew!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Without the case a great find and buy. With the case it is an outstanding buy. Oil it up and get to work.
 
I had a 201. Was a great machine and ran incredibly smooth. I ended up selling it and grabbing yet another 15-91. The horizontal hook just did not work as well for me in getting the tension needed for heavier threads. And was much more finicky about tension.

@sojourner was the first that shared with me the 201 was the "dress makers" sewing machine and the 15-91 was the "farmers" sewing machine, they were just sewing horse bridals and work clothes instead of saddles!
 
I'm very happy to have discovered this machine with the case and all. On one side of the case there is a little bit of delamination on the veneer, but I can fix that, no problem. I've been woodworking all my life. I have been watching quite a few videos about restoring, servicing and repairing these Singer machines. There is a lot of awesome content out there. Parts seem to be readily available. I ordered the little tire that goes on the thread winder last night. I need to get a supply of needles. I think I will need some heavy duty, maybe number 18's or 20's. Help me out guys. I plan to be sewing up to 4 layers of seatbelt webbing. I took the front plate off last night to look at the inner workings and they seem to be in great shape. No rust, just some light dust and lint. I will get that cleaned out and get it oiled up. I need to download the manual also, if I can find it online.

From my research I believe the manufacturers recommend sewing polyester seatbelt webbing with polyester thread. I have seen #69 thread mentioned. I still have some research to do on this. Then order the thread.

I will say this machine is built like a tank. It is all metal and I bet it weighs 30 pounds. They built these when things were made to last. Looking online last night at the serial number range I believe it was made in 1952. I hope I'm in this good of shape when I hit 70, lol.
 
Here is the thread I use for weight bearing stitches:

Here is the thread I use for non weight bearing (edge binding, hys straps, etc)


Here are the #18 and #20 needles I use:



Make sure you understand and do your "stitch per inch" or SPI calulations. If you haven't checked out Sailrites site and info, here is a link that will get you started.

 
Here is the thread I use for weight bearing stitches:

Here is the thread I use for non weight bearing (edge binding, hys straps, etc)


Here are the #18 and #20 needles I use:



Make sure you understand and do your "stitch per inch" or SPI calulations. If you haven't checked out Sailrites site and info, here is a link that will get you started.

Wow, thanks for the comprehensive materials list. I have checked out Sailrite's videos and website. I will definitely do the calculations for stitch strength before actually sewing up the saddle that I plan to hunt out of. I plan to get a bunch of scrap webbing I have around and practice until I get the hang of doing it. I look at it just like when I was first learning to weld with a stick welder. I made a lot of "dirt dobber nests" before getting any good. lol.
 
Ok, so I checked the machine out and cleaned out the dust and lint. I oiled the mechanism with some fine oil. I got some lightweight (normal) thread and threaded up the bobbin and machine and tried it out. After just a bit of practice I sewed my first box X stitch. The stitches on the front look pretty good (to me) but there seems to be some looseness and bunching on the back. Take a look and tell me what you think. I am a total newby this so any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I have needles, thread and extra bobbins and a bobbin tire on the way.
 

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Since your just getting to know this machine, I would start by tearing apart your thread tenisoner and clean/inspect it really well - heres a good video



As for your original question, the poor stitches are most likely a tension problem, however here are my steps when I get any stitching issues.

1. Double check your thread is routed properly - basically re thread it
2. Check that Bobbin thread and/or bobbin are installed correclty
3. Adjust thread tension.


There is a ton of info out there on setting your tension, and its needle, thread size, cloth dependent that all comes down to trial and error that gets easier the more you do it. @sojourner has tried to convince me to buy the bobbin and thread tension gauges a few times but Ive yet to take his advice.


Im guessing if you turn your upper tensioner clockwise a bit it will correct your issue provided 1 and 2 above are correct.
 
Good deal. Thank you very much. I watched that 10-part series but I will go back and rewatch that segment and pay closer attention to it. I also downloaded the manual from Singer and I have been reading through it. A lot of this is just going to come down to using the machine. I'm in that stage now where I am being very careful so I don't break anything.
 
Great informative response from [mention]jhunter13 [/mention]

In addition, you might want to check the thread tension coming out of the bobbin case. It is recommended it be 18 to 22 grams. There are drop tests people do. Below is a YouTube on it.

You also can clean up the bobbin case and spring where the thread goes through.

Tension meters are not needed, but I like to be able to note and go back to specific tension settings (upper and bobbin) with thread, material and needle combo.

Second video is on using the correct size (not point) needle for the thread one is using. I have found it helpful.



 
Thanks so much for these videos and recommendations. It is so nice to get feedback from people who are knowledgeable and have experience with these machines. I'm very pleased to have found this machine. It seems to be in really good shape. I'm waiting on some supplies to get here now, needles, thread and a tire for the bobbin winder.
 
Ok, after watching numerous videos and reading the machine's manual I downloaded I think I am making progress. I ordered and installed a new bobbin winding tire and set the tension. I received some #18 and #20 needles plus some V-92 Beige UV bonded polyester thread 4 OZ from Sailrite.
I also built a thread stand to accommodate the large spool of thread and I am feeding it off the stand under a pad on top of the sewing machine then through all the spots according to the manual.

I think i got the bobbin case tension right and seem to have the thread tensioned correctly (maybe). It has taken some time to get the procedure down and several times I have tried to sew with the foot up and got an awful bird's nest. That has been pretty frustrating. I will get the hang of it eventually. I'm trying to make new mistakes and not repeat the same old ones.

Take a look at my progress so far and let me know what you think. I know my patterns look bad, lol. How does the stitch look? I need some constructive criticism if I am going to get this right. Thanks guys.
 

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Sounds like you are headed in the right direction and your stitches look way better.

Question - if you try to pull the layers apart can you or are the stiches tight enough to keep them tight?

Try and determine where the upper and lower thread cross - it should be in between the fabrics (in the middle) vs on top or bottom.

Are you easily able to grab a stitch with your fingernail or do they lay flat and tight to material?

Make sure you also hold the thread down on your first few stitches to get them nice and tight when you start out and back stitch over them and the end to lock them.
 
I tried to pull the two layers apart and I could not get them to budge with hand pressure and I pulled hard.

From looking the stitches seem to be crossing in the middle. I may cut it across a stitch to see what they look like inside.

Most of the stitches seem to be flat with the webbing. They seem tight.

Thanks for the tip on holding the thread. I actually picked that tip up watching a video on threading the 15-91.

Here is a tripled-up box X "T" with three layers of webbing. This feels pretty tight and strong. I still have to go back and do my strength calculations. This is just practice. It will be a while before I feel ready to start the actual saddle build. I need to make sure the machine is sewing correctly then I need to just get some time on it learning to work it.
 

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[mention]jhunter13 [/mention] covered it all.

I would only add that you may want to get tailors chalk to draw chalk lines of where you want to lay down your stitches. Not necessary, just an option.
 
[mention]jhunter13 [/mention] covered it all.

I would only add that you may want to get tailors chalk to draw chalk lines of where you want to lay down your stitches. Not necessary, just an option.
Thanks, that's a good tip.
 
Stitches are looking great!

Also, dont be a fraid to get out the seam ripper/thread remover and remove the stiches. It happens to the best of us.
 
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