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Intro and request for feedback on rappelling setup

U

UncleRobert

New Member
Joined
Nov 9, 2021
Messages
4
Location
Ontario
Hi,
Glad to have found this forum!
Located in Southern Ontario, eastern edge of GTA. A newb in every facet. New to hunting, saddles, archery, firearms, etc.
Currently putting together gear, learning basics of saddles.
Trying to learn how to rappel safely and wanted more experienced folk to comment on my rappelling setup.
20211121_195637.jpg
Green rope is the climbing rope, which goes through a munter hitch attached to my bridge (fully extended). The backup is an autoblock attached to the linesman's belt (fully shortened), below the belaying hitch.
It seems to be working when I've tested it at home, but since I'm so new to this I wanted to know if I'm missing anything before I trust my life to it.
(My spouse had an evil glint in her eye after the amount of money I just spent on the saddle.... so I am not purchasing belay devices any time soon)
Thanks!
 
Tagged. Just started rappelling this year so I’m interested to see the responses.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
My concern would be friction between your bridge and rappel rope. The way you have that routed, it looks like it would be difficult to avoid friction at that junction.
86eb7f6ab2e82d0aa0a73f88e49a6ef2.jpg

Obviously, a Munter relies on friction to control the rappel, but it usually uses the surface area of the carabiner to bleed heat. I want no part of a system that puts unnecessary friction on my bridge. I could definitely could have misinterpreted your picture, though.
 
I’m not familiar with that set up. I’m using a black Diamond belay ($15Amazon) attached to a second short bridge when rappelling. Below that I have a prussik attached with a carabiner to a lineman’s loop for a brake. It’s super simple and that prussik is attached to my secondary bridge for redundancy while I’m just hanging out.
 
mtsrunner said:
My concern would be friction between your bridge and rappel rope. The way you have that routed, it looks like it would be difficult to avoid friction at that junction.
86eb7f6ab2e82d0aa0a73f88e49a6ef2.jpg

Obviously, a Munter relies on friction to control the rappel, but it usually uses the surface area of the carabiner to bleed heat. I want no part of a system that puts unnecessary friction on my bridge. I could definitely could have misinterpreted your picture, though.
Click to expand...
Thanks, that's a good point re the friction! I'll add a short sling to see if that solves the issue.
 
bfriendly said:
I’m not familiar with that set up. I’m using a black Diamond belay ($15Amazon) attached to a second short bridge when rappelling. Below that I have a prussik attached with a carabiner to a lineman’s loop for a brake. It’s super simple and that prussik is attached to my secondary bridge for redundancy while I’m just hanging out.
Click to expand...
I'm thinking your suggestion of a cheap belay device may also help avoid the friction that mtsrunner points out.
Do you think using the linesman's belt as a second bridge, as I have, is safe?
 
Another option is to switch locations of auto block and Munter, would be able to put Munter on and off while weighting friction hitch.
 
Brocky said:
Another option is to switch locations of auto block and Munter, would be able to put Munter on and off while weighting friction hitch.
Click to expand...
Yeah, I thought of that as well, but when I tried it the rope still was rubbing against the bridge as it was pulled taught. Ended up picking up a ATC belay device on sale. By offsetting the rope it solved the friction problem.
One of the rappelling tutorials said that the backup should be below the belaying point, something about being better if it fails. But I can see the advantage of being able to unclip the belay easily.
20211122_152048.jpg
 
Thethrd me Timbers said:
Can anyone tell me how you get your main climbing/rappelling rope out of the tree when you get to the ground?
Click to expand...
Hook your pull-up cord to the link so you can pull on it. If you don’t have one, get one. I use paracord but haven’t had to pull rope more than a loosening so it will fall.
 
UncleRobert said:
I'm thinking your suggestion of a cheap belay device may also help avoid the friction that mtsrunner points out.
Do you think using the linesman's belt as a second bridge, as I have, is safe?
Click to expand...
I think if it’s high enough rated line, bout anything will be ok……I’ve seen all kinds and makes of bridges. I like amsteel, but to each their own. I will hang on at low level first if I ever make an open/adjustable bridge. That’s gonna be a soon to do project.
 
UncleRobert said:
Yeah, I thought of that as well, but when I tried it the rope still was rubbing against the bridge as it was pulled taught. Ended up picking up a ATC belay device on sale. By offsetting the rope it solved the friction problem.
One of the rappelling tutorials said that the backup should be below the belaying point, something about being better if it fails. But I can see the advantage of being able to unclip the belay easily.
View attachment 57474
Click to expand...
This looks more like mine. That prussik brake should let you hang hands free too. I just hold the prussik out to the side, press down the top of it to let line through and get a pretty smooth descent. Also I can’t tell for sure in the photo but it make sure the teeth are on the tag end. It almost looks backwards.
 
I had a prussik too long and it went almost into the belay, but it was a test run. Even atop just 1 stick it was freaky! I lengthened my second bridge, shortened prussik. Prussik should definitely be below your belay. I’d make sure it is braking the belay while remaining at least a few inches below it
 

Great tutorial at link above.

Using linesman as second bridge works, but it will throw your center of gravity off and really give you an an workout if your weight is ever transferred to it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
bfriendly said:
Hook your pull-up cord to the link so you can pull on it. If you don’t have one, get one. I use paracord but haven’t had to pull rope more than a loosening so it will fall.
Click to expand...

^^^ That will get you hung-up once in a while.
You need to hook your pull down cord BEHIND the knot holding the link...

Screenshot_20210605-000740_Gallery.jpg
 
Thethrd me Timbers said:
Can anyone tell me how you get your main climbing/rappelling rope out of the tree when you get to the ground?
Click to expand...

Hey b friendly take a look at this method...really awesome piece of gear for 13 bucks...solves a couple problems automatically when incorporated into your system...being friendly is awesome
 
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