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It's just...a little crush... - Review of the JX3 Hybrid Saddle

Does anyone else put on their outer layer(top and bottom) after climbing the tree in the JX3?

I haven’t hunted out of my hybrid lately (trying some other set ups), but the last few sits I did in it, I put my outer layers on once I got set up.
I was using a ROS so it was a little more difficult, but it wasn’t too bad. Putting the top on was easy, the bottom is a little tricky.


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Has anyone found a good video that shows how to properly fit a molle II frame? or does it not apply so much because the way the jx3 is built?
 
Has anyone found a good video that shows how to properly fit a molle II frame? or does it not apply so much because the way the jx3 is built?

belt is fixed. I’ll have to pull out the new one to see if you can adjust torso length with the shoulder harness. Will look later today
 
As you can see in those pictures, the belt position is fixed. You aint changing it without serious modification. You can look at my other thread on how to do that if you want to chop stuff up.

As far as the shoulder harness is concerned - I have a long torso - I'm 6'3. It fits me pretty decently as far as length between centerline of belt, and attachment of shoulder harness to the frame at the top. You could move that connection point from the hole it's threaded in now, to a higher one. Keep in mind - the frame starts to cup forward in those ears. You may introduce a pressure point that wasn't there before. Trial and error. But You're only going to need to go UP if you have a really long torso.

Going down, you should be able to remove the screws I'm pointing at, to access inside the mesh. This will allow you to work the connection of the harness loose, and attach below the cross bar somewhere. Your lower limiter is going to be the top of the mesh where the strap feeds out if I had to guess. My assumption is there is an amount of adjustment needed to fit people 5'8-6'3 ..... ISH. Everyone's torso is different.


Having said all of that - That accomplishes one of the three keys to proper load toting - Torso length adjustment. The second can be accomplished easily with load lifters - either from John, or homemade. The third key - Distributing the weight across your hips is much tougher because the belt is on the back of the frame. You're fighting a fixed rear width (solid frame), and tension of the mesh - both of which don't allow you to distribute weight evenly around your waist on your hips. Currently I have no answer on how to fix this, other than putting the belt in front of the frame. Doing this will veer very far from "stock" design. I don't recommend it.


I'm a sneetch, so I need more of the weight on my hips and off my shoulders. Folks with noassatall disease, and broad shoulders, could likely get by with load lifters and adjusting the shoulder harness connection point to fit them lengthwise. For hunting - the belt was fine for me. For hauling, it was untenable.
 
As you can see in those pictures, the belt position is fixed. You aint changing it without serious modification. You can look at my other thread on how to do that if you want to chop stuff up.

As far as the shoulder harness is concerned - I have a long torso - I'm 6'3. It fits me pretty decently as far as length between centerline of belt, and attachment of shoulder harness to the frame at the top. You could move that connection point from the hole it's threaded in now, to a higher one. Keep in mind - the frame starts to cup forward in those ears. You may introduce a pressure point that wasn't there before. Trial and error. But You're only going to need to go UP if you have a really long torso.

Going down, you should be able to remove the screws I'm pointing at, to access inside the mesh. This will allow you to work the connection of the harness loose, and attach below the cross bar somewhere. Your lower limiter is going to be the top of the mesh where the strap feeds out if I had to guess. My assumption is there is an amount of adjustment needed to fit people 5'8-6'3 ..... ISH. Everyone's torso is different.


Having said all of that - That accomplishes one of the three keys to proper load toting - Torso length adjustment. The second can be accomplished easily with load lifters - either from John, or homemade. The third key - Distributing the weight across your hips is much tougher because the belt is on the back of the frame. You're fighting a fixed rear width (solid frame), and tension of the mesh - both of which don't allow you to distribute weight evenly around your waist on your hips. Currently I have no answer on how to fix this, other than putting the belt in front of the frame. Doing this will veer very far from "stock" design. I don't recommend it.


I'm a sneetch, so I need more of the weight on my hips and off my shoulders. Folks with noassatall disease, and broad shoulders, could likely get by with load lifters and adjusting the shoulder harness connection point to fit them lengthwise. For hunting - the belt was fine for me. For hauling, it was untenable.
I couldn't find the load lifters on the JX3 website yesterday
 
Does anyone else put on their outer layer(top and bottom) after climbing the tree in the JX3?

Yes - tops are no different then a regular saddle. Pants are actually easier to me, you can rotate 90 degrees from the tree and sit in the hybrid, put on the pants legs, then rotate back around, stand up and pull them the rest of the way up
 
I love my hybrid, it's comfortable, simple, and is great for all reasons mentioned here already.
Also as mentioned already, it's not great at packing out. For 60-70% of my hunts, this is a non issue. Its also not great (in my experience) at packing in a bunch of layers to dress at the tree. You can only fit so much stuff within the frame itself, under the seat, and between the seat and the back when it's folded up.

The times when i want the hybrid the most are for all day sits for comfort. But because those spots are typically hard to access locations, packing out a critter is a necessity. And i need more layers because usually it's the coldest part of the season.

Ironic how its the best and worse at what i want it to do. Guess i can't have my cake and eat it too unless i go cutting the thing up and doing some more mods.

If i could put the seat portion on my kifaru frame and rig up the same webbing bridge setup, id probably never hunt out of anything else ever again
 
I love my hybrid, it's comfortable, simple, and is great for all reasons mentioned here already.
Also as mentioned already, it's not great at packing out. For 60-70% of my hunts, this is a non issue. Its also not great (in my experience) at packing in a bunch of layers to dress at the tree. You can only fit so much stuff within the frame itself, under the seat, and between the seat and the back when it's folded up.

The times when i want the hybrid the most are for all day sits for comfort. But because those spots are typically hard to access locations, packing out a critter is a necessity. And i need more layers because usually it's the coldest part of the season.

Ironic how its the best and worse at what i want it to do. Guess i can't have my cake and eat it too unless i go cutting the thing up and doing some more mods.

If i could put the seat portion on my kifaru frame and rig up the same webbing bridge setup, id probably never hunt out of anything else ever again

if you’re willing to modify, check out the thread I started on turning the hybrid into a true hauler.

also, you can put endless amount of stuff between seat and frame, because you don’t have to fold the seat all the way up. You can leave it 90* behind you if you need to. I wouldn’t, but you could.

another option is to do what I did - I removed the ground chair standoffs. This allows the seat to compress directly against the frame. Now I can load whatever I like as tight to my back as I want. You have to get creative on how to rig stuff, but that’s the beauty of the hybrid - it’s tailor made for tinkering with all the attachment points.

And I promise you, attaching the hybrid seat to any frame pack doesn’t make sense. I’ve tried it. A bunch. You need something close to the width of your back to spread the load of the side strap. Especially if you’re not a skinny fella. By the time you rig that up into your frame pack, you’re back at a hybrid. You’re better off modifying the frame of the hybrid to haul better than modifying a frame pack to sit on A$$ better. It’s really easy to do if you’re willing to modify gear.

The hybrid was never meant to be a meat hauling machine. It just happened to be built with the frame of a hauling machine in its infancy. I saw that potential and pressed that issue. So I reckon I’m partially to blame for the noise out in the universe that it is such a beast. But I’ve made clear from the very beginning how it actually works hauling. But the hybrid meets the needs of 90% of people who buy it - who have zero interest in using it for anything other than sitting on A$$ close to the truck. For the rest of us, get to choppin!
 

I’ll update at some point with a few minor changes. But this is pretty much it. I use the JX3 packs too, they’re great.
 
I use the JX3 packs too, they’re great.

What kind of waist belt do they use on the JX3 pack? None of the pics or description mention the belt...which is a key component of a good backpack system.

Would love to hear a more detailed review of the JX3 Pack system.....it's pricey, so wanted to get some feedback from initial users before deciding to invest in it.
 
Also, with regard to the JX3 packs… I assume they are not as bulky as they seem from the pictures? Looks like they wouldn’t fit too good between back and seat.
 
What kind of waist belt do they use on the JX3 pack? None of the pics or description mention the belt...which is a key component of a good backpack system.

Would love to hear a more detailed review of the JX3 Pack system.....it's pricey, so wanted to get some feedback from initial users before deciding to invest in it.

waist belt is just 2” webbing belt. If you search my name and hybrid, you’ll see plenty of musings on it. And the modification thread has the pads I made when I swapped my belt to inside the frame.

I love the pack system. I use the backpack and one of the small pouches almost every hunt. I am averse to bino harnesses generally, but have committed to using it the last few hunts this year. I don’t need all of the pieces. I typically don’t even use a pack with the hybrid. But probably will start because these are exactly what I want. I’ll do a more thorough review at some point
 
Also, with regard to the JX3 packs… I assume they are not as bulky as they seem from the pictures? Looks like they wouldn’t fit too good between back and seat.

the seat is not going to be perfectly parallel to the frame is you pack a bunch of crap. But it doesn’t have to be. It’s got nothing to do with the empty pack shape. It’s more about how full you make em!

I used completely different ways to secure the seat now. So it doesn’t matter how bulky what I bring to the woods might be. I either strap it outside the seat, or the seat is not parallel.
 
if you’re willing to modify, check out the thread I started on turning the hybrid into a true hauler.

also, you can put endless amount of stuff between seat and frame, because you don’t have to fold the seat all the way up. You can leave it 90* behind you if you need to. I wouldn’t, but you could.

another option is to do what I did - I removed the ground chair standoffs. This allows the seat to compress directly against the frame. Now I can load whatever I like as tight to my back as I want. You have to get creative on how to rig stuff, but that’s the beauty of the hybrid - it’s tailor made for tinkering with all the attachment points.

And I promise you, attaching the hybrid seat to any frame pack doesn’t make sense. I’ve tried it. A bunch. You need something close to the width of your back to spread the load of the side strap. Especially if you’re not a skinny fella. By the time you rig that up into your frame pack, you’re back at a hybrid. You’re better off modifying the frame of the hybrid to haul better than modifying a frame pack to sit on A$$ better. It’s really easy to do if you’re willing to modify gear.

The hybrid was never meant to be a meat hauling machine. It just happened to be built with the frame of a hauling machine in its infancy. I saw that potential and pressed that issue. So I reckon I’m partially to blame for the noise out in the universe that it is such a beast. But I’ve made clear from the very beginning how it actually works hauling. But the hybrid meets the needs of 90% of people who buy it - who have zero interest in using it for anything other than sitting on A$$ close to the truck. For the rest of us, get to choppin!

I've really only diddled with myJX3.

On first look, I was very surprised at how comfortable it is on my back and as others have said, it feels lighter than it is.

I never thought of it as a system that I'd pair with climbing sticks. They almost always seem a mess in pictures of the JX3, plus more system weight. (Full size Beast sticks run horizontally off the back look decent...so any long in-line stacking double step stick would be ok I suppose...although it's a wider profile).

Nevertheless, I spent a few minutes "packing" LWCG compacts and I actually found loading them internally on those ground brackets reasonably smart. It held them in place extremely well and kept the load close to my back. It also kind of made an internal shelf for loose outerwear and a gear pocket to rest on (not that it's particularly consequential). While packing LWCG compact sticks this way does shorten the available internal storage dimension, it was still nice enough imo that I'd consider giving it a field test.

Without those feet, the sticks could lay across the webbing that connects the frame and seat and you'd functionally lose no storage space, or across the back of the seat as many prefer. But I kind of like keeping the edges away from any strapping and, again, the compact sticks kind of wedge in for stability on the brackets. If the brackets were at the same angle as the LWCG standoffs, they'd basically lock together.

Of course, like other methods, you lose some slimness through the woods and brush. It would be a problem in some spots but ok in others I venture to.

I don't know if 4 sticks would fit. 3 do. Pictured with two. (Also, I just grabbed the bulkiest outerwear I had lying around to get a sense of space and made no attempt at organizing better.)

3F063E7B-FB30-4A8B-968C-06A7D67B7945.jpegA8AE0C98-126B-476D-8F97-B6084F6B2313.jpeg
 
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I've really only diddled with myJX3.

On first look, I was very surprised at how comfortable it is on my back and as others have said, it feels lighter than it is.

I never thought of it as a system that I'd pair with climbing sticks. They almost always seem a mess in pictures of the JX3, plus more system weight. (Full size Beast sticks run horizontally off the back look decent...so any long in-line stacking double step stick would be ok I suppose...although it's a wider profile).

Nevertheless, I spent a few minutes "packing" LWCG compacts and I actually found loading them internally on those ground brackets reasonably smart. It held them in place extremely well and kept the load close to my back. It also kind of made an internal shelf for loose outerwear and a gear pocket to rest on (not that it's particularly consequential). While packing LWCG compact sticks this way does shorten the available internal storage dimension, it was still nice enough imo that I'd consider giving it a field test.

Without those feet, the sticks could lay across the webbing that connects the frame and seat and you'd functionally lose no storage space, or across the back of the seat as many prefer. But I kind of like keeping the edges away from any strapping and, again, the compact sticks kind of wedge in for stability on the brackets. If the brackets were at the same angle as the LWCG standoffs, they'd basically lock together.

Of course, like other methods, you lose some slimness through the woods and brush. It would be a problem in some spots but ok in others I venture to.

I don't know if 4 sticks would fit. 3 do. Pictured with two. (Also, I just grabbed the bulkiest outerwear I had lying around to get a sense of space and made no attempt at organizing better.)

View attachment 60556View attachment 60557

can you scoot the sticks to in the direction of the top of the sticks, so that you can fold the top steps backwards to shorten total width? Or do they not fold stacked? Could you unstack them and just lay one on top the other to accomplish this?

I’m sure one of the biggest reasons I don’t relate to the weight of hybrid being an issue is I never use multiple sticks with it.
 
waist belt is just 2” webbing belt. If you search my name and hybrid, you’ll see plenty of musings on it. And the modification thread has the pads I made when I swapped my belt to inside the frame.

I love the pack system. I use the backpack and one of the small pouches almost every hunt. I am averse to bino harnesses generally, but have committed to using it the last few hunts this year. I don’t need all of the pieces. I typically don’t even use a pack with the hybrid. But probably will start because these are exactly what I want. I’ll do a more thorough review at some point

cool...thanks....will look forward to the more detailed review.

My belt question wasn't about the JX3 saddle....but about the backpack system, which I presume also has a waist belt? Is it just web or does it have padding? Most backpacks have padded hip belts.
 
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