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Knot advice for rappel/tether

The biner is clipped onto the quick-link side, not the tag end side. Even if the biner ended up on the body of the rope, all of the line would need to feed through the quick-link prior to dropping, effectively removing your girth-hitched anchor. At that point your line is retrieved!
Hahaha....weldabeast sure is dumb sometimes
 
I adapted a girth hitch soft shackle to be able to form a Prusik and also attach to itself. This can be used with any tether eye size, clamps on tree, easy to install, and easy and cheap to make.
I first used two overhand knots, but the one that forms the hitch bridge looked like it was being pulled apart, so changed to a wall knot.
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^^^ You're a genius!

It doesn't look like that would work very good for a rappel rope though???
Prussiks can be a bear to tend at times. You'd have to tend that guy the whole way back to the ground after descending from it.
 
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Instead of a long line going through the eye, it only has to be about 6”, just enough to bridge the two rope sections and to tie a stopper. This and attaching pull cord, can be done just before descending. In the picture the yellow cord is the retrieval and the green cord ends shortly after knot.
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Tying, or sewing a loop on the tail of the scaffold allows larger tether loops, just a stopper above with the tight eye wouldn’t work, so just put short green cord through the tether eye and back to scaffold loop, tie a stopper.
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Sorry, hopefully last one, probably can’t KISS this concept anymore. Started to make a more finished girth hitch loop, was going to sew on the Celtic Button knot from another thread for a smaller stopper, and realized the simpler method. Just tie a figure eight knot, a large tether eye can be seized with whipping twine, fishing line, throw line, etc. to make a small one.
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This will be the last one, I’ve been put on double secret probation and can’t post again for forty eight hours!
I thought I heard someone say knots are too hard to untie soon after my last posting, so……
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Rules allow one edit: the short, 35mm Jammy is a ready made option.
 
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^^^ Waayyy outta my league !

But it gives me the incentive to keep learning.

Thanks again Brocky...
 
I use a Ball Bungee girth hitched around the rope with the ball inserted into a 1/4” pear shaped quick link (also works on a delta link), $3 for 4 @Harbor freight. Let’s me pull slack to move the rope up the tree while one sticking and immediately puts tension on the rope between moves. Keeps tension on the rope while on stand keeping it from falling down. I use 2 Nite Eze s-biners to move the rope up the tree. S biner needs to be between the rope and the bungee cord. It’s about as simple as it gets and works great.AD4AE0CC-3789-4B24-9969-F4B78927036E.jpeg7CEE4494-6B19-4D1D-A66D-DB2C56B77CF5.jpeg
 
I use a Ball Bungee girth hitched around the rope with the ball inserted into a 1/4” pear shaped quick link (also works on a delta link), $3 for 4 @Harbor freight. Let’s me pull slack to move the rope up the tree while one sticking and immediately puts tension on the rope between moves. Keeps tension on the rope while on stand keeping it from falling down. I use 2 Nite Eze s-biners to move the rope up the tree. S biner needs to be between the rope and the bungee cord. It’s about as simple as it gets and works great.View attachment 48050View attachment 48051
What's the purpose of the S-biners? Are they just a lot easier to grab onto rather than trying to "pinch" the rope with your fingers to move it up the tree?
 
What's the purpose of the S-biners? Are they just a lot easier to grab onto rather than trying to "pinch" the rope with your fingers to move it up the tree?
Keeps your fingers from getting between the tree and your tether. If you slip and fall while advancing your tether it wouldn't be pretty. There is someone on here(I don't remember who) that can testify to that. @2Sloe you stole my idea by using those biners. I haven't tried them yet. How are they working for ya? Do you have to chase them around much on the tether? I was thinking I was going to attach them with a castration band or something to keep them where I want them and use them to hang my bow and pack at height.
 
Keeps your fingers from getting between the tree and your tether. If you slip and fall while advancing your tether it wouldn't be pretty. There is someone on here(I don't remember who) that can testify to that. @2Sloe you stole my idea by using those biners. I haven't tried them yet. How are they working for ya? Do you have to chase them around much on the tether? I was thinking I was going to attach them with a castration band or something to keep them where I want them and use them to hang my bow and pack at height.
I didn’t steal your SBiner idea….I stole it from @Jay_Disarray on Mar16! Ha! Ha! Ha! and if truth be known, I prolly saw that bungee idea on here at one point or another lol. I don’t know if there are any original ideas left. You can’t attach the Sbiners to the rope because you need to be able to move them back and forth around the tree as you move the rope up. That’s also why you want the sbiner between the rope and the bungee cord. When you move the sbiner back and forth on the bungee side it pushes the bungee girth hitch further away making it tighter if anything. If you have it around the rope and the bungee it will grap the bungee girth hitch and pull it back toward you, reducing the tension. Took me a couple of times to figure that one out. I’ve mostly been climbing gumball trees, which are fairly smooth, need to try it out on rough bark trees, may not work as well on those when you move the tether up. May need to make one up outta larger diameter bungee cord for rough bark. Certainly will hold the tether up on any tree. I also really like he pear shaped quick link because it keeps the scaffold from eating itself, but the knot stays centered, unlike the delta, where the knot has a tendency to wander off to one side or the other. It’ a 1/4 6mm, 4400lb marine grade from US Stainless on Amazon for about $9.
 
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These are also a great option and Austin is a great dude.

 
I didn’t steal your SBiner idea….I stole it from @Jay_Disarray on Mar16! Ha! Ha! Ha! and if truth be known, I prolly saw that bungee idea on here at one point or another lol. I don’t know if there are any original ideas left. You can’t attach the Sbiners to the rope because you need to be able to move them back and forth around the tree as you move the rope up. That’s also why you want the sbiner between the rope and the bungee cord. When you move the sbiner back and forth on the bungee side it pushes the bungee girth hitch further away making it tighter if anything. If you have it around the rope and the bungee it will grap the bungee girth hitch and pull it back toward you, reducing the tension. Took me a couple of times to figure that one out. I’ve mostly been climbing gumball trees, which are fairly smooth, need to try it out on rough bark trees, may not work as well on those when you move the tether up. May need to make one up outta larger diameter bungee cord for rough bark. Certainly will hold the tether up on any tree. I also really like he pear shaped quick link because it keeps the scaffold from eating itself, but the knot stays centered, unlike the delta, where the knot has a tendency to wander off to one side or the other. It’ a 1/4 6mm, 4400lb marine grade from US Stainless on Amazon for about $9.
To be fair, it wasnt my original idea either, but I cant tell you where i got it from. ideas float around and sometimes stick
 
Keeps your fingers from getting between the tree and your tether. If you slip and fall while advancing your tether it wouldn't be pretty. There is someone on here(I don't remember who) that can testify to that. @2Sloe you stole my idea by using those biners. I haven't tried them yet. How are they working for ya? Do you have to chase them around much on the tether? I was thinking I was going to attach them with a castration band or something to keep them where I want them and use them to hang my bow and pack at height.
Ouch ... OK, thanks. Great tip! I don't want to learn that one the hard way.
 
I have a ship load of saddle gear and I'm always out testing this or that...
Well, the one day I one-sticked up a tree about 25 feet high or so. Guess what - NO RAPPEL DEVISE!!!

Thank goodness I was able to take the carabiner off my LB and descend with a Munter hitch.
 
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I have a ship load of saddle gear and I'm always out testing this or that...
Well, the one day I one-stick up a tree about 25 feet high or so. Guess what - NO RAPPEL DEVISE!!!

Thank goodness I was able to take the carabiner off my LB and descend with a Munter hitch.
Nice!
What are you 1-sticking with (ropes)?
LB with Kong/Roepman?
Tether with same?

I've been using my rapelling rope as a tether with my Madrock, but I'm finding it kind of a mess once I put my LB back on and take the first step or two up the stick.
 
What are you 1-sticking with (ropes)?
LB with Kong/Roepman?
Tether with same?
I have Rescue-Tech, Camo Elite, Ultra-Tech and C-IV for rappel ropes

I've put a pretty serious beating on the C-IV i have. It's in rough shape so I figure I'll keep hammering on it this summer and keep my Rescue-Tech for hunting season.
As a rope I love the Canyon Elite but it's kinda bulky. The Ultra-Tech is AWESOME but I only have a 30 footer and that ain't long enough for me.

I really like the Duck for easy adjustment, but I ditched it on my one-sticking tether. It kept clanging off of my top step or platform so I switched most of my tethers to a carabiner wrapped up with hockey tape and a Swabisch...

The Ropeman on a LB is pretty tough to beat.
 
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