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Lets talk bridge - Rope vs Amsteel vs Webbing

S

Stevey220

Active Member
Joined
Jan 20, 2019
Messages
121
Looks like there's a lot of movement towards webbing for a bridge. Have you made the transition? If so from what and why?

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 
I copied this from my answer in the thread "Bridge type differences" under the sub forum Saddle Info for new users.

For a new guy, I would recommend a bridge that the length can be adjusted. Bridge length is a very personal thing and one of the major influences on comfort. The Mantis bridge, IMO, is way too long and its not adjustable.
For just a few dollars, you can buy 5 or 6 feet of 1/4" Amsteel and easily make an adjustable whoopie sling bridge that is crazy strong. Amsteel isn't knot friendly so buries are used. They are easy to make.

Climbing rope makes an okay bridge but it is my least favorite. I don't like the bulky knots.

My favorite bridge is 1" tubular webbing with tri slides on each side. Slides makes the bridge fully adjustable and requires no stitching or knots. It also allows you to clinch the bridge to the saddle loops which gives you yet another adjustment. Changing where the bridge grips the loops also has an influence on comfort.

Lots of guys just tie tubular webbing to the bridge. Its still semi adjustable, but you just have to re-tie each time.
Some guys do adjust bridge length fairly often depending on the situation at hand.
I don't adjust mine very much.
I have it about 23 inches with a low tether, which feels good to me and has other advantages, often discussed in other threads.
 
Allegheny Tom said:
I copied this from my answer in the thread "Bridge type differences" under the sub forum Saddle Info for new users.

For a new guy, I would recommend a bridge that the length can be adjusted. Bridge length is a very personal thing and one of the major influences on comfort. The Mantis bridge, IMO, is way too long and its not adjustable.
For just a few dollars, you can buy 5 or 6 feet of 1/4" Amsteel and easily make an adjustable whoopie sling bridge that is crazy strong. Amsteel isn't knot friendly so buries are used. They are easy to make.

Climbing rope makes an okay bridge but it is my least favorite. I don't like the bulky knots.

My favorite bridge is 1" tubular webbing with tri slides on each side. Slides makes the bridge fully adjustable and requires no stitching or knots. It also allows you to clinch the bridge to the saddle loops which gives you yet another adjustment. Changing where the bridge grips the loops also has an influence on comfort.

Lots of guys just tie tubular webbing to the bridge. Its still semi adjustable, but you just have to re-tie each time.
Some guys do adjust bridge length fairly often depending on the situation at hand.
I don't adjust mine very much.
I have it about 23 inches with a low tether, which feels good to me and has other advantages, often discussed in other threads.
Click to expand...

Do you mind posting a pic of your bridge setup? I understand but I like to see it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
The only problem with webbing is that some can dry rot over time and some can give way suddenly w/o warning if kicked (due to woven nature. Personally, I like amsteel or webbing and I replace mine annually or at any sign of irregular wear.
 
Last edited:
I'm currently trying to find what works best for me. My mantis has a fixed amsteel bridge and my flex has an adjustable rope bridge with prissik and tender (Least favorite due to bulk). What I do like is the adjustability and the ability to disconnect and stow for the walk in. So I have the following to test and try out"

1. Fixed amsteel bridge that I already have time with (Mantis)
2. Adjustable rope on the flex that I have not cut off yet
3. 1/4" amsteel daisy chain. Girth hitched on one side with carabiner on the other so I can remove and stow for walking and still add links to the carabiner to adjust while in use if needed.
4. 1/4" Amsteel whoopie sling I made last night so no experience with it yet. Pretty simple to make just took a little patience in dealing with the amsteel.
5. I have some climbing rated 1" tubular webbing I intend to either tie or try to find tri-glides for(Any links would be appreciated)

Being I like the comfort of the flex a lot better than the mantis I will put all of the bridges on the flex for their test runs and see which works best for me. I think I want to be able to stay adjustable mainly for when using the hand climber the shorter bridge seams to make the climbing easier and I can make larger strides while climbing.

I will circle back with my .02 in a week or so
 
Allegheny Tom said:
I copied this from my answer in the thread "Bridge type differences" under the sub forum Saddle Info for new users.

For a new guy, I would recommend a bridge that the length can be adjusted. Bridge length is a very personal thing and one of the major influences on comfort. The Mantis bridge, IMO, is way too long and its not adjustable.
For just a few dollars, you can buy 5 or 6 feet of 1/4" Amsteel and easily make an adjustable whoopie sling bridge that is crazy strong. Amsteel isn't knot friendly so buries are used. They are easy to make.

Climbing rope makes an okay bridge but it is my least favorite. I don't like the bulky knots.

My favorite bridge is 1" tubular webbing with tri slides on each side. Slides makes the bridge fully adjustable and requires no stitching or knots. It also allows you to clinch the bridge to the saddle loops which gives you yet another adjustment. Changing where the bridge grips the loops also has an influence on comfort.

Lots of guys just tie tubular webbing to the bridge. Its still semi adjustable, but you just have to re-tie each time.
Some guys do adjust bridge length fairly often depending on the situation at hand.
I don't adjust mine very much.
I have it about 23 inches with a low tether, which feels good to me and has other advantages, often discussed in other threads.
Click to expand...

Agreed!

I would add that amsteel is not good for a shock load so if your climbing method involves slack (1 sticking) you might bot want an amsteel bridge.

I am also unsure of the shock load capability of the triglides, so I plan to switch to water knots on both sides of bridge once I settle on length.

Doublesteps.com has tri glides
 
I've used both amsteel and tubular webbing, and I prefer the webbing. It's easier for me to replace when I need to and cheaper. Takes just a few seconds for me tie a new bridge. Both work great though.
 
I used to like a rope bridge and then I got a saddle with a adjustable webbing bridge man what a difference in comfort level also found out that I like my bridge on the short side haven't felt the need to adjust in 6 weeks
 
DwadeCham said:
Do you mind posting a pic of your bridge setup? I understand but I like to see it.


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Click to expand...
1st pic is the web bridge I run now. I got those sliders before Dano found the load rated ones. I doubled mine because they are not load rated. If you want slides, buy them from Dano.
The other pic was from my Amsteel whoopie bridge. The 1st pic is the brummel side and the last pic is the whoopie side.
11edfe12e6e4961a91985b1e439b5b82.jpg
8d4410e959e7da9934e10292f08a7e0d.jpg
49dc022703951eb0dc49e3a38ca00adc.jpg


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DaveT1963 said:
The only problem with webbing is that some can dry rot over time and some can give way suddenly w/o warning if kicked (due to woven nature. Personally, I like amsteel or webbing and I replace mine annually or at any sign of irregular wear.
Click to expand...

Have you ever handled climbing rated tubular webbing? I know exactly what you're talking about with chintzy nylon straps, but the tubular webbing people are (or should be) using for bridges is entirely different weave. It's a tight, smooth weave like seatbelt webbing.
 
elk yinzer said:
Have you ever handled climbing rated tubular webbing? I know exactly what you're talking about with chintzy nylon straps, but the tubular webbing people are (or should be) using for bridges is entirely different weave. It's a tight, smooth weave like seatbelt webbing.
Click to expand...

Yes sir use it all the time (what i used for my original CAYG aider). Any bridge is susceptible to failure so I highly recommend replacing every year or at first sign of abnormal wear. I probably go overboard with it, replace all my Amsteel every year.
 
pesqimon said:
Agreed!

I would add that amsteel is not good for a shock load so if your climbing method involves slack (1 sticking) you might bot want an amsteel bridge.

I am also unsure of the shock load capability of the triglides, so I plan to switch to water knots on both sides of bridge once I settle on length.

Doublesteps.com has tri glides
Click to expand...
The slides Dano sells are the same ones that Aerohunter uses. I'm assuming they have been tested for all sorts of stresses, loads, and shock.

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Stevey220 said:
Looks like there's a lot of movement towards webbing for a bridge. Have you made the transition? If so from what and why?

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
I'm using a black diamond rabbit runner. 22kN rated with sewn in loops for a carabiner. They are $17ish.

Sent from my SM-S727VL using Tapatalk
 
first saddle was a sitdrag with an amsteel bridge, got the Kestrel 2 years ago and used the rope bridge that came with it but disliked the weight of the rope and disliked the weight of the 3rd 'biner even more (linemans, bridge, and tether), I just removed it a couple weeks ago and did another fixed 1/4" amsteel...and remembered while I love it so much...amsteel just slides through the tether 'biner better than anything else. and its super light.
 
I'm using a black diamond rabbit runner it's sewn on both ends and rated at 22kN. It's made from dynex or something. $17ish online.

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Ckwilli said:
I'm using a black diamond rabbit runner it's sewn on both ends and rated at 22kN. It's made from dynex or something. $17ish online.

Sent from my SM-S727VL using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I'm looking at one of these for my DIY sit drag now

Are you girth hitching one end and using a carabiner for the other?
 
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