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Lets talk bridge - Rope vs Amsteel vs Webbing

I switched to a fixed length 1" tubular webbing about 2 years ago on my saddle. Love the strength, light weight a simplicity of this approach.

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I double down. I have the Amsteel that came with my mantis and a 1 inch tubular webbing one as a back up. I read on here last year one is none and two is one. So i error on the side of caution.
 
I'm using a regular Dynema 24 inch climbing sling, girth hitched to one bridge loop and a carabiner girth hitched to the other end.
 
so after running the previously mentioned set ups I have to say I landed on the webbing bridge as my favorite. I have it tied on one side and a tri-glide to a carabiner on the other to keep it removable. I like to remove the bridge and then run it through my bridge loops once or twice to cinch the loops closer to my waist and then reconnect the biner to hold it tight like a belt for the walk in or out. Even with the biner it is way lighter and less bulky than the adjustable rope bridge I had before. Nothing against the whoopie bridge I had I just felt better and preferred the webbing over it. No noticeable advantage to me for one over the other.
 
Im using 1 inch webbing, water knot on one side and an Astrialpine cobra frame triglide (22kn/9/kn shock) on the other. I like the adjustability. When one sticking, I back it up with a tag end water knot and carabiner, then remove that once in the tree. This works well for me.
 
I use a rope bridge but my old TL saddle had webbing so did my Treesuit and Guido's web. There is nothing wrong with webbing I just prefer a rope bridge and I like to have it adjustable.
 
I like my bridge 18", I use tubular webbing, girth hitched on both sides, and sewn.
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Im using 1 inch webbing, water knot on one side and an Astrialpine cobra frame triglide (22kn/9/kn shock) on the other. I like the adjustability. When one sticking, I back it up with a tag end water knot and carabiner, then remove that once in the tree. This works well for me.


Could I get a pic of your setup?
 
You’re using the Rabbit runner as the bridge?
Yes. I use a rch with a sit drag and the rabbit runner through the tie off on the rch. Not ideal but it’s worked for the last couple seasons.
 
Just finished putting 1/4 amsteel full bury bridge on my sit drag. Looped on one end and using 3/16 amsteel full bury continuous loop prusik on the other side that allows me to adjust length as needed.

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I had webbing original but switched to amsteel but I switching back to webbing...I don't like the flat spot the amsteel develops from the carabineer over time .. I'm sure it's fine but I just don't like the way it gets flat like that
 
I am just getting into saddle hunting and am DIY most everything. I am planning on using 8mm Sterling rope for a bridge and using two prusik knots to make an adjustable bridge. I saw on YouTube how to tie your prusiks to the rope ends then pull the rope out of the prusik holding that twist and then girth hitch to your saddle rings or loops then feed the rope back into the prusik and then knot the end of your rope.

I came up with how to easier hold the knot shape. I will just loosen the knot on the rope and then slip a zip tie or piece of wire between the rope and prusik twist and secure the twist then slip it off and on. You can also probably use this as a belt to hold the saddle to you when you are walking in to hunt. This is all in the experimental stage right now.
 
for those that got the BD Rabbit runner, seems like they only come in white. are there any other less obvious color options?
 
Can always dye it. Or just get it dirty

I wouldn't do anything like what RIT dye recommends (heating it up in the water). Also, I doubt that anything sticks to Dyneema once formed. The manufacturer claims you can soak it in just about anything and it is unaffected (gasoline, acetone, etc) but of course I'm not trying that either!
 
I am just getting into saddle hunting and am DIY most everything. I am planning on using 8mm Sterling rope for a bridge and using two prusik knots to make an adjustable bridge. I saw on YouTube how to tie your prusiks to the rope ends then pull the rope out of the prusik holding that twist and then girth hitch to your saddle rings or loops then feed the rope back into the prusik and then knot the end of your rope.

I came up with how to easier hold the knot shape. I will just loosen the knot on the rope and then slip a zip tie or piece of wire between the rope and prusik twist and secure the twist then slip it off and on. You can also probably use this as a belt to hold the saddle to you when you are walking in to hunt. This is all in the experimental stage right now.

Once you figure it out it’s really not difficult to tie the prusik onto the bridge after it’s attached to the bridge loops.


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I wouldn't do anything like what RIT dye recommends (heating it up in the water). Also, I doubt that anything sticks to Dyneema once formed. The manufacturer claims you can soak it in just about anything and it is unaffected (gasoline, acetone, etc) but of course I'm not trying that either!

To be more clear, I'm talking about the company that make Dyneema (not Black Diamond specific to this runner). Not that anyone would do it, but I assume the threads and other aspects of the runner that aren't Dyneema would dissolve more easily. If I remember, the ultra long molecules of Dyneema just don't react with much (except heat!). There is a table from the manufacturer I found online.
 
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