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Muzzleloader? Teach me

thedutchtouch

thedutchtouch

Well-Known Member
SH Member
Joined
Oct 22, 2020
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Location
Maryland
Every year I debate "maybe this will the year I try a muzzleloader out" (in fact I may have started threads on this topic/asked this in others before) and then every year muzzy season comes (or I suppose early muzz at the moment) and I don't have one/still hunt with the bow through the season, to the extent that I almost forget to wear orange sometimes.

Like every part of hunting, I bet there's lots of opinions and variation, but what would you all recommend, if emphasis was for reliable, ease of use, and not breaking the bank, cva wolf?

And does anyone have a good resource for learning how to load, good types of power, bullets, etc? Or am I making this too complicated?

Goal: Eastern whitetail, shots likely 50-100 yards max.
 
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Following… I’ve been flirting with getting a Nitrofire/Firestick muzzleloader for Eastern states and late season….
 
Get one. Ain’t even got to go through an FFL, ship to your door.

It’s not rocket science, just got to clean it more than your rifle, by that I mean every 2-3 shots and when you put it up for any length of time.

I shoot loose 777 powder cause that’s the way daddy taught me but the world is your oyster and it opens up extra time in the woods.
 
Modern muzzleloaders are pretty foolproof. Find a basic break action, hammer fired rifle that takes 209 primers. Plenty accurate out to 100 yards.

Like @Sunshine said, the biggest issue is keeping it clean. I shoot a max of two rounds before cleaning the bore with at least a swab.

CVA Wolf is fine, the CVA Optima is better.
 
Short answer: your making it to complicated.

Muzzle loaders are not complicated. The only issue is if you have to use powder or pelets. Pelets are easy. Some states say you have to use precussion caps or flint not electronic ignition. Most barrels have stamped on them the power charge max. Mine uses 2 pellets (so 100 total grains) I prefer the brakedown version easier to clean. Cleaning is where most people fail and ruin their guns. You cant leave powder in it, and you need to clean it.I have owned cva, optima, and Tc triumph. The triumph is no longer made but it is really accurate.
 
I have a CVA Wolf with the cheap glass that came with it. Two triple 7 pellets and a 300 grain slug are what I shoot. Dang thing is more accurate than I will ever be. Deer out to100 yards is easy peasy.
 
slonstdy said:
I have a CVA Wolf with the cheap glass that came with it. Two triple 7 pellets and a 300 grain slug are what I shoot. Dang thing is more accurate than I will ever be. Deer out to100 yards is easy peasy.
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pellets do make this system stupid easy. we use hornady sabots when were forced to muzzy hunt here.
 
I killed my first deer with the Muzzle Loader I bought myself when I quit smoking.
Encore 209 X 50.

I was on the ground and the deer was walking fast head down on a trail. Spike buck.
I had to duck down under the smoke the M/L made!
Even though it is a 'modern' M/L, it was still a really cool experience.

Do it and add another dimension to your deer hunting.

Listen to the guys here about what to get.

ETA: Oh yeah! Check the Pawn Shops!
 
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We have a couple stainless CVA Wolf’s in our collection. They have been foolproof since purchasing them. We started out shooting pellets, but later swapped to BH209. You can find these MZ’s online at sites like muzzleloader dot com in the 250-260 dollar range without glass. There’s no way I’d miss out on MZ season if I had the coin to get started with.
 
Super easy, you’re overthinking it. If you want a quick rundown in person holler at me. If you buy one get stainless or nitride….. starting out use 2 pellets & a decent bullet combo. Get a 50 cal it’s easier to find powder & slugs. I like how a 45 shoots but have found it’s easier for what I’m doing to have 50cals. I personally love T/Cs but cva makes good guns too
 
Knight muzzleloaders have Green Mountain Barrels. IMO Green Mountain are the best ML barrels. Most other brands use imported barrels. I’ve had CVA, TC, and Knight.
 
Bigterp said:
Super easy, you’re overthinking it. If you want a quick rundown in person holler at me. If you buy one get stainless or nitride….. starting out use 2 pellets & a decent bullet combo. Get a 50 cal it’s easier to find powder & slugs. I like how a 45 shoots but have found it’s easier for what I’m doing to have 50cals. I personally love T/Cs but cva makes good guns too
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Like this one in annapolis?
Screenshot_20251018-104053.png
 
ML caps can get hard to find on occasion. 209 primers seem to be easier to come by if that helps.
 
I have a CVA Accura V2. Honestly it was kind of a headache until I switched to Blackhorn. It’s not as convenient as pellets but a hell of a lot cleaner. It also went up in price but I’ve had my jug for years. My shots touch at 100 yards and I only clean it about every half dozen shots or so and it usually just needs a dry patch run through it. I use the Harvester White Lightning bullet and their crush rib sabots.
harvestermuzzleloading.com

Scorpion - White Lightning - 50 Caliber Sabots - 300 Grain .430 Bullets (12 Pack)

Scorpion White Lightning Polymer Tip Bullets are the same composition of our #1 selling Scorpion PT Gold Bullets. However, the White Lightning produces a higher ballistic coefficient and this provides advanced velocity and additional energy down range. This bullet is packaged with our patented...
harvestermuzzleloading.com harvestermuzzleloading.com
 
thedutchtouch said:
Like this one in annapolis?
View attachment 121720
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I’m gonna hurt someone’s feelings but I wouldn’t buy that for 400$ as my first ML . I would buy an inline 50cal & figure out what your doing then add degrees of difficulty as you progress. Traditional BP guns have learning curve & tend to be more limited in range & more susceptible to bad weather. I know there are exceptions but it’s a rabbit hole.
 
Bigterp said:
I’m gonna hurt someone’s feelings but I wouldn’t buy that for 400$ as my first ML . I would buy an inline 50cal & figure out what your doing then add degrees of difficulty as you progress. Traditional BP guns have learning curve & tend to be more limited in range & more susceptible to bad weather. I know there are exceptions but it’s a rabbit hole.
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Oh yeah makes sense, I wasn't eyeing it for me, it was just the first t/c I stumbled on. It seems like cva optima/would are pretty widely recommended for starter gun/slightly nicer than starter guns.
 
thedutchtouch said:
Oh yeah makes sense, I wasn't eyeing it for me, it was just the first t/c I stumbled on. It seems like cva optima/would are pretty widely recommended for starter gun/slightly nicer than starter guns.
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You can get a CVA Wolf for fairly cheap. I’ve even seen them at Walmart.
 
Bigterp said:
I’m gonna hurt someone’s feelings but I wouldn’t buy that for 400$ as my first ML . I would buy an inline 50cal & figure out what your doing then add degrees of difficulty as you progress. Traditional BP guns have learning curve & tend to be more limited in range & more susceptible to bad weather. I know there are exceptions but it’s a rabbit hole.
Click to expand...
I don’t remember the barrel twist but it seems like my TC Hawken kinda comprises between round ball and conical bullets. I could never get good accuracy with either. Ive hunted with it some but my go to is always my Knight.
 
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