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NEED HELP!!!! — Sharpening new single bevel

SaddleGuy615

New Member
Joined
Jun 24, 2019
Messages
23
Snorted the fairy dust and got some 200gr Cutthroats. I feel like I’m having issues sharpening them with the Innovative Outdoorsman jigs. I have used a lot of sandpaper but haven’t got an edge honed yet. I have a couple close but not scary sharp yet. If anyone has sharpened any single bevel, let me know.


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Never done a single bevel broadhead, but i sharpen single bevel Japanese chefs knives often for work. You said sandpaper and that worries me, you should be using a whetstone. I doubt sandpaper will get the job done correctly. A decent whetstone and some vegetable oil, or honing oil should really be a game changer. Also quick research shows they have a lifetime warranty and should be able to mail it to them and have them sharpen it.

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Use a black marker on the edge to make sure your taking metal off where you need to be, get the angle right. Work your course stone until you get a burr on the flat side, just a little burr will do. Now hit it with the next finer stone, it will increase the burr a little more., now use the next finer stone. Now turn it over and cut the burr off using inward strokes only. Polish the bevel with your polishing stone. Turn it over and cut the burr off using inward strokes only. At this point it should be fairly sharp. Alternate sides doing a couple of light strokes on each side going inward only. Now one pass per side light strokes. This should get you some hair. I strope at this point. Stroping will get you that scary sharp edge your looking for. Stick with it and don't get frustrated it'll take some time to get the technique down, once you get the first one your golden. I haven't used the jig you refered to but the idea is the same no matter what you use. Remember to use a light touch at the end.
 
Sand paper wears down alot faster than a diamond stone or a whetstone. Make sure you do the black marker and follow steps in the above post. Strop to finish and you should shave no problem
 
diamond stones work great and they work FAST. worth the extra money if your actually gonna take the time to sharpen
 
I concur with the gentleman above. I bought the jig and sandpaper. Went through wayyyy too many packs of sandpaper. I’d highly recommend something called Smith’s Tri-Hone. They make it with ceramic stones or diamond stones. Either works fine. Diamond one is a bit better. The stay sharp jig doesn’t match the cutthroat bevel exactly, but if you can start with a coarse grinding stone, file, etc... you can get the cutthroat to the angle of the jig and it’ll work fine. Above all else, I’d say ditch the sandpaper and get that tri-hone.
 
for stones this one is pretty good and the 1200grit will get it to shave hair for sure but you will definitely need a strop and maybe a 2000grit whetstone before that to get it perfect. The sharpal is cheap for diamond stones and is perfect size for doing bigger broadheads like a samurai 200 or cutthroat
 
Not sure why that link says robot check...lol should take you to the amazon link. DMT makes awesome sharpening equipment if you dont mind paying a little more.
 
Sounds like u are starting with the broadhead a little wonky in the jig.....like other said, sharpie the shiney and put the blade on the jig and run 1 stroke. Look at the shiney and see it the blade it sitting flat based on the cuts in your sharpie mark...u may have to fiddle with the position of the jig on the blade before u clamp it down. Find the spot the blade and jig have the shiney cutting angle flat to the table. If u can't get the cutting edge flat prior to starting u may be there a while cutting a new bevel angle.

That jig works just fine ......I just sharpened 9 broadhead with 1 piece of sandpaper in each grit....120, 220, 400, 800. No need to push hard....let the tool do the work
 
When ever I am having trouble with a blade it is because I didn’t get that burr with the course stone. That burr is key. Everything else seems to fall in place after that.
 
1 other thing dealing with that jig specific.....the plastic has kinda clearance itself....not sure if anybody else the same....the printed plastic on certain head allows the jig to contact before the blade edge.... Not much but I definitely got a flat spot started on the jig itself
 
Ordered diamond stones and a strop this morning. Are oils 100% necessary @Wyatt_burp? And what’s the lifespan on the diamond stones?

I was doing the sharpie trick and 90% of my work was changing the angle of the bevel for sure. Got one edge “sharp enough” but that’s all.


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Ordered diamond stones and a strop this morning. Are oils 100% necessary @Wyatt_burp? And what’s the lifespan on the diamond stones?

I was doing the sharpie trick and 90% of my work was changing the angle of the bevel for sure. Got one edge “sharp enough” but that’s all.


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I think with diamond stones, I read that just cleaning the stone afterward with water will suffice (might wanna google that), but with other stones, especially aluminum carbide and Arkansas, I think the honing oil is a must.
 
Ordered diamond stones and a strop this morning. Are oils 100% necessary @Wyatt_burp? And what’s the lifespan on the diamond stones?

I was doing the sharpie trick and 90% of my work was changing the angle of the bevel for sure. Got one edge “sharp enough” but that’s all.


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I don't have diamond stones so not sure. Sorry.

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Pretty much every sharpener will leave a sort of "rough" edge of varying degree so to speak even though you may not be able to see it.
IMO to get the leg hair shaving sharp edge you're after you need to spend time polishing that edge on a strop.
 
Ordered diamond stones and a strop this morning. Are oils 100% necessary @Wyatt_burp? And what’s the lifespan on the diamond stones?

I was doing the sharpie trick and 90% of my work was changing the angle of the bevel for sure. Got one edge “sharp enough” but that’s all.


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I've had the same problem with my cutthroats using a KME sharpener (the older model that you can't adjust the angle) and the stay sharp. The problem initially is getting your jig to match the angle of the head. It doesn't happen, so you have to stroke away until you change the blade angle to match what the jig will put out. If you try to do that with sandpaper it'll take you all year. Diamond stone definitely makes things easier but I've still struggled. I hope you can find the answers and provide them on here so I can copy your success lol
 
I've had the same problem with my cutthroats using a KME sharpener (the older model that you can't adjust the angle) and the stay sharp. The problem initially is getting your jig to match the angle of the head. It doesn't happen, so you have to stroke away until you change the blade angle to match what the jig will put out. If you try to do that with sandpaper it'll take you all year. Diamond stone definitely makes things easier but I've still struggled. I hope you can find the answers and provide them on here so I can copy your success lol
Not trying to argue here..... But 80 grit sandpaper vs a 300 diamond stone paper beats rock....I have this same jig and just sharpened a bunch of heads and used only 1 piece for each grit....to used this jig u need a wider stone than the 1s I got which are normal width compared to all other stones I've ever had. The instructions for this jig say to use paper also.

A wide diamond stone would be ideal but sandpaper doesn't really take any longer than a stone.
 
Not trying to argue here..... But 80 grit sandpaper vs a 300 diamond stone paper beats rock....I have this same jig and just sharpened a bunch of heads and used only 1 piece for each grit....to used this jig u need a wider stone than the 1s I got which are normal width compared to all other stones I've ever had. The instructions for this jig say to use paper also.

A wide diamond stone would be ideal but sandpaper doesn't really take any longer than a stone.
Hm interesting. I guess I just can't see the paper holding up to the same pressure I put on the stone. I take it back
 
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