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Needing help replacing my bridge with webbing.

Arkie

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Aug 27, 2020
Messages
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I have an Aerohunter Kestrel that I want to replace the rope bridge with a webbing bridge.

I was planning to do 1” tubular webbing that EWO carries with a triglide on each side, also from EWO.

A few questions.

1). Does anyone have pics of their setup like this?
2.) Do you only put one triglide on each side or multiple?
3.) How long of webbing do you use/ how much extra do you have on each side?



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You can use the slider for one end if you want or you can use two. I have done it several ways I grab one end and make a loop then do a half turn on one end then stitch a section then I have a loop that I girth hitch to one end and run the tag end to other end and connect to slider and I’m done Make sure you tie a knot in that end Very adjustable I perfer it to ropes personally. Another option I have done is either tie or stitch a small loop and use a carabiner or petzel and clip on to one loop and that way I don’t step into my saddle to put it on. If you need help with stitching send it my way and I will do it for you and also I use the frame buckles instead of the slider sometimes
 
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Here's a couple of pics of an Amsteel bridge on my Kestrel, but I did do a webbing bridge before I did the Amsteel.

It's very helpful if you do an extra wrap around the bridge loops before you go thru the trislides (or in the case of Amsteel, before you do the bury).
Making the extra wrap allows the bridge to cinch tight on the loops which allows the bridge to remain where you place it on the loops. It will have a big influence on comfort. A lower cinch will allow the saddle to cup your butt more and a higher cinch reduces hip pinch (for me, anyway). The trick is to find that sweet spot that works for you. And on an all-day, 12 hour hang, you might find during the day that you want to slightly adjust where the cinch is located.

I don't have the webbing bridge on the Kestrel anymore but the concept with webbing is the same as in these pics. Make the extra wrap around the loops (actually a clove hitch works great) and then run the webbing thru your trislides. Make sure to keep the slides as close to the loops as possible so you aren't essentially shortening to usable part of your bridge. If the slide is a few inches up the webbing, then you've essentially shortened the amount of "travel" in the bridge.

Another point, if you take the tag-end of the webbing and thread it thru the slide just one additional time, the webbing will be 100% locked in place. There will be no chance of the webbing slipping in the slide.

I had the slides from EWO (actually found them before DanO was selling them) and they are fine because the are load rated. But I didn't care for their physical size. Strapworks has a non-load rated slide that I liked better...all except for the fact of not being load rated. So I doubled them (stacked one on the other) and it worked fine FOR ME. But I was 180 pounds back then, and I never had unyoking of accidental slip or fall with those lighter slides so I can't say how well they would hold up under the extreme shock of a short fall and arrest. (another good reason to keep slack out of the tether/bridge combo)

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I found this pic of my original bridge (before the Amsteel).
This kinda shows the wrap around the loops and it also shows the non-load rated slides which I doubled-up. And the pic also shows how I threaded the tag-end of the webbing an additional time thru the slide. And note how close to the loops the slides are located (more usable bridge!)
This worked great. But I'm now using a Recon exclusively, so the old Kestrel is just taking space in my closet.

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I never cared for having the bridge "lock" onto the bridge loops but that's all personal preference.....but the nice thing about using the sliders is u can add the extra loop or make it a single loop in less than 2 minutes and as long as u do it correctly it's a rated connection quick and easy without sewing, tying any knots, or bury in amsteel.
 
Thanks for all the feedback.
I’m going to go ahead and place my order.
I liked the webbing bridge on my ESS once I moved the slide closer to the D ring and had more useable bridge. Seems like using the slides is the way to go for me. No sewing, rated, and easy to replace when needed.


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If you are going the webbing route you may want to check out Nutterbuster youtube. The Ansi Cobra setup is slick.
 
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If you are going the webbing route you may want to check out Nutterbuster youtube. The Ansi Cobra setup is slick.

Do you happen to have the link?
I check his channel occasionally, but I didn’t see anything that mentioned webbing, at least not in the title.


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I sent my kestrel back to aerohunter and they sewed a webbing bridge for $20, had it. back in a week.
 
I sent my kestrel back to aerohunter and they sewed a webbing bridge for $20, had it. back in a week.

A stitched bridge won't allow adjustment of bridge length and it won't allow fine tuning and cinching where on the loops the bridge pulls.

@Weldabeast, I always want to understand the reasons why someone chooses to do what they do.
So what is it about cinching the bridge on the loops that you didn't like? It's not a permanent position that it locks upon, so it's still quite adjustable. And (at least for me anyway) I find that, for a 12 hour hang, there is no perfect spot that works for the entire day. Maybe for the 1st four hours or so it feels best in one spot, but later on it feels better to move it just a smidge. Even wearing different clothes can make a difference as to where the cinch feels best.
Just curious to your reasoning. I can't see a downside to the cinch.
 
I had mine girth hitched to both bridge loops and I honestly didn't notice any difference where I locked the bridge in the bridge loops it all feels about the same to me. I have a homemade saddle so maybe that's why I don't notice? I sat in a phantom and played with it's balls and again....didn't really notice a difference.....maybe it's the way I use the saddle? I lean out much more than most people?
 
I don't see a downside either....just the way that I made it.....sliders allow me to easily change if I decided a cinch was needed in the future
 
Here’s my version that is very adjustable and I can switch it between saddles if I chose I sent these pics to @Arkie
 

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Girth hitches or a bridge that locks down varies for what saddle I have. If I am using a Flex or Kestrel I would prefer to be able to lock the position in place. For a saddle like the transformer I prefer it to slide freely on the d-ring. It also doesn't make as much different whether the bridge will slide on a saddle that has d-rings but does make some difference. Whether I want it to lock or not also depends on if I am a sitting or leaner and depends on whether I am on a platform or a ROS. I like it different lengths and able to slide/lock on some saddles and I do not like it on others.

OP if you buy 2 rated triglides you can choose whether you want to configure it to slide or not. The length is going to vary from saddle to saddle, platform type, build etc. I would buy a foot or so more than you think you need of the webbing and play around with it on you saddle i.e. bridge length, sliding vs. fixed etc. then make a decision and cut before season starts if you have too much.
 
I appreciate all the feedback.
I have ordered 20’ of webbing and a handful of slides from EWO.

I may find of projects to consume the extra webbing while I’m at it.

I’m going to swap it out and see how I like it.


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I have some saddles that doesn’t have D rings and I use this method and works good for me. You can definitely come up with many concoctions with the webbing
 
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