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New compound bow hunter - leveling the bow

X

Xbomberman

New Member
Joined
Jun 19, 2021
Messages
2
I just started shooting a compound bow this winter. I've crossbow hunted out of a saddle before this. I'm really enjoying the process of learning to shoot but I've only shot from the ground at this point. I'm planning to start hunting out of my saddle this September. When you're shooting out of the saddle, do you try to level the bow to the Earth even in some of the more twisted positions that you can get in with a saddle? Or is it relative to your torso?
 
Try to be level for the best accuracy. I pay more attention to the level in my sight in a saddle vs a stand. I prefer the sitting position for shooting and some of that is because it is more level.
 
michigandrake said:
Try to be level for the best accuracy. I pay more attention to the level in my sight in a saddle vs a stand. I prefer the sitting position for shooting and some of that is because it is more level.
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That's what I figured was you wanted at level to the Earth, not relative your body positioning. I'm trying to figure out my stabilizer situation and feel like upgrades to my stabilizer would really help level my bow in different positions
 
Are we talking level side to side here or front to back? I assume front to back, and people always say bend at the waist in the tree, but honestly I shoot better when I think less about this specific part to shooting. I'm by no means an expert, mainly replying to see what everyone else says
 
Xbomberman said:
That's what I figured was you wanted at level to the Earth, not relative your body positioning. I'm trying to figure out my stabilizer situation and feel like upgrades to my stabilizer would really help level my bow in different positions
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I did not state that as clearly as I thought. I want my bow to be level .... side to side. My experience with the saddle is it does lead to some funny angles and it is easy to cant the bow. The front to back part you want to keep your upper body geometry the same. Elbow to arrow tip is a straight line so you need to angle that line down to the target. Bending at the waist or rolling a little in the saddle keeps that line intact.
 
MattMan81 said:
Draw your bow perpendicular to the ground like normal, anchor, then bend at the waist. If you draw while leaning down, it's real easy to change your anchor point.
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Did you mean parallel to the ground? Either way, I am not going to say that your process doesnt work or is wrong, it just isnt the only way. I disagree with you for hunting application due to the "at shot" movement required. Obviously there is always pre-shot movement required but I prefer to fully address the target in advance of a shot. What I mean is I get the bow positioned for the shot, pointing at the animal as soon as I decide it is one I am going to shoot. I can very slowly move to stay in position for the shot and when the opportunity is right the only remaining movement is the draw arm comes back to anchor position. If your anchor point changes, you didnt execute a good shot. With as far as I know all of todays compounds having draw stops, that shouldnt be an issue anyway. A kisser button was the solution for a long time back when folks were transitioning to releases rather than shooting fingers. There are times when I have drawn as you describe but they were when a buck was chasing a doe heading towards my tree and I was not sure where the shot was exactly going to be so I drew level and then addressed the target until the shot opp happened or the deer were past me. On easy moving relaxed deer, I just much prefer to address the target first so all I have to do is draw when it is time.
 
I'm not sure how to answer this without pictures. I'll try.
Some compound bow sights have levels in them so you can ensure your bow isn't canted to one side or another. These sight levels can be especially useful for saddle hunters who may be contorted in such a manner as to imperfectly reference gravity, or the horizon, and be a bit off-kilter. So with regards to canting the bow side-to-side, you do want to level the bow. As a novice archer, you may want to install a pin sight with a spirit level like this:
1675905495823.png


However, obviously, we're shooting out of a tree at a target on the ground; we're shooting at a downward angle. In that sense, no, we absolutely do not want to have our arrow horizontal when shooting downward.

Your question also refers to proper form, but doesn't address it entirely. You'll want to read up on proper form, especially as relates to elevated shots. Briefly consider this archer:
1675905620075.png

His bow arm is perpendicular to the bow, his arms are (roughly) in line, and form a T with his upper spine. He's aiming downward with his whole torso, not just dropping his bow hand to aim lower. I'm not sure how far I've gotten away from your question about leveling the bow but I hope I've helped.
 
while we're at it as long as the OP doesn't mind, how much does a bit of cant to the bow matter when we're talking about killing deer at 40 yards or less, a lot? or is it more of a longer distances/ target shooting accuracy level detail? obviously dont want to downplay the importance of good form to archery in general, but just wondering where this detail lies on the list of priorities for hitting lungs within 40 compared to say pripritizing anchor point comfort or some other factor?
 
Just to give you one more thing to think about, have you set all the axis in your sight? Over the years I have found this to be far more valuable than I thought it would be. Prior to messing with stabilizers, make sure the actual level is true, then work tuning from there. Once you set the sight, work on getting use to how the bow feels when everything is spot on. I have noticed that my body has a way of being very accurate at leveling my bow for me.

Having a level bow is important for good shooting form, but deer have a way of testing our patience and forcing us to do something dumb (I.e. shooting from a jeopardized position). I think it is far more important to learn the patience with a bow than anything else.
 
thedutchtouch said:
while we're at it as long as the OP doesn't mind, how much does a bit of cant to the bow matter when we're talking about killing deer at 40 yards or less, a lot? or is it more of a longer distances/ target shooting accuracy level detail? obviously dont want to downplay the importance of good form to archery in general, but just wondering where this detail lies on the list of priorities for hitting lungs within 40 compared to say pripritizing anchor point comfort or some other factor?
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It matters but it's probably way down on the list of reasons we miss.

Easy enough to test out. Intentionally cant your bow at a given yardage while practicing. It'll surprise you how much cant it takes to move your point of impact at 20 yards.
 
Try to keep your upper body perpendicular to the ground and level your sight as you do on the ground. Search Nockon archery, School of Nock on YouTube. Series 1 is excellent information for every archer, especially new archers imo.

Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk
 
As stated, form is super important. 3rd axis is another over looked item. Get the 3rd axis set on your sight and practice at the elevated heights.
 
Xbomberman said:
I just started shooting a compound bow this winter. I've crossbow hunted out of a saddle before this. I'm really enjoying the process of learning to shoot but I've only shot from the ground at this point. I'm planning to start hunting out of my saddle this September. When you're shooting out of the saddle, do you try to level the bow to the Earth even in some of the more twisted positions that you can get in with a saddle? Or is it relative to your torso?
Click to expand...
Always try to keep everything waist and above the same. Doesn’t matter what the rest of you is doing otherwise. Back in the treestand days we said, “Bend at the waist.” So when I see a deer coming in I’m trying to mimic how I would draw being on the ground and keeping that all the same while my lower half is positioning for the shot. Once positioned right with your legs and feet it’s a relatively straightforward process to execute the shot.
 
Keep your bow arm perpendicular to your body. That’s all there is to it.
 
Like several others have stated, get a sight that has all 3 axis adjustments. The sight level will only hinder you unless you learn to level all 3 axis. When shooting from high in a tree and shooting at sharp downhill angles, you may have problems with your point of impact compared to where you were aiming.

A good 3rd axis sight that is properly adjusted (watch some youtube videos) will help you learn to hold the bow properly on angled shots and you will soon develop some muscle memory to taking angled shots correctly and repeatably. Just remember it will take some practice and a little time to develop the muscle memory.
 
Xbomberman said:
I just started shooting a compound bow this winter. I've crossbow hunted out of a saddle before this. I'm really enjoying the process of learning to shoot but I've only shot from the ground at this point. I'm planning to start hunting out of my saddle this September. When you're shooting out of the saddle, do you try to level the bow to the Earth even in some of the more twisted positions that you can get in with a saddle? Or is it relative to your torso?
Click to expand...

you mean level as in a bubble level under the sight would read level?

you should be level to gravity, not the ground, the tree, or you

i'd get a sight with a level under it for this

as far as level front to back, you should be in a position similar to drawing the bow on the ground level and then bend at the hips to point the bow downward...do not drop your arm only to point down.....angle of your armpit should be the same whenever you shoot
 
As pertaining to the invisible axes (x,y,z), your bow should always be level to the "x" axis. Combatting this can be partially solved by properly setting your sight axis and/or level (if possible), then balancing your bow so that it wants to sit level. All that aside, once I follow the prior procedure, I rarely look at my level inside 30-40 yds. It becomes almost an unconscious step vs. a conscious one, except for check at long range etc.

As far as form, in a perfect world, technically the angular measurement under your bow stabilizing arm, in relation to your torso, should never change.
 
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