• The SH Membership has gone live. Only SH Members have access to post in the classifieds. All members can view the classifieds. Starting in 2020 only SH Members will be admitted to the annual hunting contest. Current members will need to follow these steps to upgrade: 1. Click on your username 2. Click on Account upgrades 3. Choose SH Member and purchase.
  • We've been working hard the past few weeks to come up with some big changes to our vendor policies to meet the changing needs of our community. Please see the new vendor rules here: Vendor Access Area Rules

New here, curious about what I should be looking for in a rope.

NMSbowhunter said:
Oh, another thing. When using a throw ball and line you will be very tempted to pull the ball back over the limb or crotch and not lower the ball to the ground and unhook it and just pull the line back over. This is the quickest and surest way to get your throwball impossibly jammed in a crotch or wrapped around a limb. Take the few extra minutes to lower the ball. unhook it and then pull the line out. Trust me, I know.
Click to expand...
I shall keep this in mind. I’m sure I’ll probably learn this the hard way as well..
 
Newb2hanging said:
Good to know. I’ll experiment with the extra hitch at the top. Currently hanging in my saddle. Lol so I’ll give it a go.

Why do you think the jrb is a no go? Seemed like it worked pretty good to me. Just complex.
Click to expand...
It’s too complex. In other rope industries, they don’t teach beginners extremely complicated hitches or climbing systems. Arborist have to get special training before they can take off rope walking on 10mm lines. If men that make a living climbing trees every day need specialized training from a certified instructor to do complicated rope entries on small diameter ropes, what makes us as amateurs watching you tube so qualified that we can learn an overly complicated climbing system on even smaller diameter ropes from a man who isn’t certified to create or teach a climbing system in the first place? It’s not a knock on John either. I like him. He’s a very nice guy and seems extremely well researched, but he’s not a certified instructor. He isn’t a professional climber (arborist, mountaineer or canyoneering rescue) that I am aware of, and the system is not taught adopted nor approved by any climbing organization or institution that I am aware of. If I am wrong, I will publicly apologize to him but I don’t believe I am incorrect. Also if I am being honest on top of being a very complicated internet based system, I don’t see any of his perceived advantages over existing rope systems, except the redundant tie in points. In short I’m a keep it simple stupid kind of guy. Leave expert entry to true experts. Learn simple safe and proven methods. Take the time to PERFECT those techniques before you jump on the new latest and greatest bandwagons.
 
Newb2hanging said:
What is milking the rope?
Click to expand...
Referring to ropes that have a core and outer layer. Milking is when you stretch the outer layer down the length of the rope so it’s the same length and doesn’t have a lot of slack over the inner core. When you rappel on a figure 8 or autoblock you have the tendency to milk the rope since you’re running a decent length of it with friction and force. Also when rappelling on some devices it can twist your core, milking the rope can straighten out a twisted core. I never had a whole lot of problem with twist in my predator but not zero.

You may need to milk your rope periodically to straighten out inner strands, inspect for rope defects, or simply take up excessive slack in the core. You can do this simply
By holding the rope firm with one hand as you pull it through that hand with the other. Do this to the entire length
 
Fl Canopy Stalker said:
It’s too complex. In other rope industries, they don’t teach beginners extremely complicated hitches or climbing systems. Arborist have to get special training before they can take off rope walking on 10mm lines. If men that make a living climbing trees every day need specialized training from a certified instructor to do complicated rope entries on small diameter ropes, what makes us as amateurs watching you tube so qualified that we can learn an overly complicated climbing system on even smaller diameter ropes from a man who isn’t certified to create or teach a climbing system in the first place? It’s not a knock on John either. I like him. He’s a very nice guy and seems extremely well researched, but he’s not a certified instructor. He isn’t a professional climber (arborist, mountaineer or canyoneering rescue) that I am aware of, and the system is not taught adopted nor approved by any climbing organization or institution that I am aware of. If I am wrong, I will publicly apologize to him but I don’t believe I am incorrect. Also if I am being honest on top of being a very complicated internet based system, I don’t see any of his perceived advantages over existing rope systems, except the redundant tie in points. In short I’m a keep it simple stupid kind of guy. Leave expert entry to true experts. Learn simple safe and proven methods. Take the time to PERFECT those techniques before you jump on the new latest and greatest bandwagons.
Click to expand...
I like my reduced double stationary rope, non redundant, half rope, two hitches and a Garda climbing method. It is the easiest set up and climbing for me. I would not recommend it to anyone though.
 
gcr0003 said:
Referring to ropes that have a core and outer layer. Milking is when you stretch the outer layer down the length of the rope so it’s the same length and doesn’t have a lot of slack over the inner core. When you rappel on a figure 8 or autoblock you have the tendency to milk the rope since you’re running a decent length of it with friction and force. Also when rappelling on some devices it can twist your core, milking the rope can straighten out a twisted core. I never had a whole lot of problem with twist in my predator but not zero.

You may need to milk your rope periodically to straighten out inner strands, inspect for rope defects, or simply take up excessive slack in the core. You can do this simply
By holding the rope firm with one hand as you pull it through that hand with the other. Do this to the entire length
Click to expand...
I actually use a long heat treated hitch cord and tie a schwabisch. I tie the rope to the base of the tree, put the hitch on, lean into it and then walk out the entire length of the rope. On new 24 strand ropes, I usually have about 14 to 20” of cover slack that I milk out in a 75’ section.
 
Fl Canopy Stalker said:
I actually use a long heat treated hitch cord and tie a schwabisch. I tie the rope to the base of the tree, put the hitch on, lean into it and then walk out the entire length of the rope. On new 24 strand ropes, I usually have about 14 to 20” of cover slack that I milk out in a 75’ section.
Click to expand...
To milk my rope I set my rope 80ft up in the 120ft sweet gum tree in my back yard and then I rappel all the way down on a simple atc. That gets all the milk out of it. Your method works too though. Lol


Edit: ^^^ that is a joke, don’t do that lol
 
gcr0003 said:
Referring to ropes that have a core and outer layer. Milking is when you stretch the outer layer down the length of the rope so it’s the same length and doesn’t have a lot of slack over the inner core. When you rappel on a figure 8 or autoblock you have the tendency to milk the rope since you’re running a decent length of it with friction and force. Also when rappelling on some devices it can twist your core, milking the rope can straighten out a twisted core. I never had a whole lot of problem with twist in my predator but not zero.

You may need to milk your rope periodically to straighten out inner strands, inspect for rope defects, or simply take up excessive slack in the core. You can do this simply
By holding the rope firm with one hand as you pull it through that hand with the other. Do this to the entire length
Click to expand...
Good to know. I seen someone else mention this and I was thinking to my self “ why are we putting milk on the rope?” Lol
 
gcr0003 said:
To milk my rope I set my rope 80ft up in the 120ft sweet gum tree in my back yard and then I rappel all the way down on a simple atc. That gets all the milk out of it. Your method works too though. Lol


Edit: ^^^ that is a joke, don’t do that lol
Click to expand...
Yours is faster though :sweatsmile:
 
Fl Canopy Stalker said:
It’s too complex. In other rope industries, they don’t teach beginners extremely complicated hitches or climbing systems. Arborist have to get special training before they can take off rope walking on 10mm lines. If men that make a living climbing trees every day need specialized training from a certified instructor to do complicated rope entries on small diameter ropes, what makes us as amateurs watching you tube so qualified that we can learn an overly complicated climbing system on even smaller diameter ropes from a man who isn’t certified to create or teach a climbing system in the first place? It’s not a knock on John either. I like him. He’s a very nice guy and seems extremely well researched, but he’s not a certified instructor. He isn’t a professional climber (arborist, mountaineer or canyoneering rescue) that I am aware of, and the system is not taught adopted nor approved by any climbing organization or institution that I am aware of. If I am wrong, I will publicly apologize to him but I don’t believe I am incorrect. Also if I am being honest on top of being a very complicated internet based system, I don’t see any of his perceived advantages over existing rope systems, except the redundant tie in points. In short I’m a keep it simple stupid kind of guy. Leave expert entry to true experts. Learn simple safe and proven methods. Take the time to PERFECT those techniques before you jump on the new latest and greatest bandwagons.
Click to expand...
Fair enough. Thanks for the explanation!
 
gcr0003 said:
I like my reduced double stationary rope, non redundant, half rope, two hitches and a Garda climbing method. It is the easiest set up and climbing for me. I would not recommend it to anyone though.
Click to expand...
Wut… lol lot of terms there I’ve never heard
 
NMSbowhunter said:
2TC looks tough, and some folks find it difficult or impossible, but to me it is very easy once I learned the technique. 2TC works great on the millions of straight limbless pines and younger oaks we have around here. I got into DRT a couple of years ago and really wanted it to work for me. I loved to climb DRT and still do. Remember those millions of straight limbless trees I just mentioned, lol. They were not so enthusiastic about DRT. Where I hunt it just was not a good way to get in a tree to hunt. I found I was spending my time looking for a good DRT tree and not the best tree to kill a deer out of. If you have the right trees for it, DRT is a great system.

Paracord presets are the way to go. You won't be throwing a throwball in the dark successfully. Also, if you have a 75 foot DRT rope, precut your paracord into 65 to 70 foot lengths. This way when you preset a tree you will know if that 70 foot paracord loop will work over your intended branch or crotch that you will have enough climbing rope to climb the tree. It takes at least 5 feet of rope to tie the Blakes hitch and a tail with stopper knot. Nothing is more frustrating that pulling your rope over a limb just before a hunt and realizing you don't have enough rope to climb.

Ropes. The Sampson Predator is a great rope for DRT. It is 11.4mm and has what they call "good hand" meaning it is well suited to tying knots. Some rope is very stiff and does not tie well. The 11.4mm Bluewater Static line is one of those. I use it for a tether, but I don't think I would want to try DRT with it. I have a shorter practice rope (56 ft) that is 16 strand Arbormaster in the red, white and black color scheme. It is 12mm and is a great rope for DRT. 16-Strand Tree Climbing Rope || WesSpur Tree Equipment

My 56 foot practice rope will get me to 20 feet but it is usually too short to try to hunt off of going into an unknown real world hunting situation. If I were going to try to make DRT work for me again, I would opt for at least 100 feet of Predator, and maybe 120 feet. Here, the load bearing limbs start at over 40 feet most times and that is a no go with 75 feet of rope. For DRT, in my opinion, you want a larger diameter rope like 11.4 to 12mm.

The big learning curve with DRT is not necessarily tying the Blakes hitch, or the hip thrust movements. To me it was mastering the throwball. Scott, the tall arborist guy on the New York Saddler Hunter channel commented that you either hit your mark on the 1st or 51st try and he was spot on. I have walked away from trees several times after trying to hit a limb or crotch with 30 plus throws. Another lesson I learned is that you will probably want a regular tether as well as the climbing rope, The reason is to use the tether as a redirect to put you where you want to be on the tree and not where the limb you climber on put you. New York saddle hunters have a video on this too.

Don't get discouraged. Just realize that there is a good bit to making DRT work. If you have the right kind of trees, learn the throwball, and learn to tie the Blake's well, then it should work for you. The main thing is to be safe. Practice low and slow.
Click to expand...
Another excellent DDRT rope option is:
www.knotandrope.com

Deep Woods

This is a 7/16 rope with the unique feature of a second core which helps it stay round under load. This is the perfect line for any hunter looking for a line that blends into the woods. For climbing or lanyards, this rope fits the bill. Basically this is just like Blue Craze or Rocket Line. Made...
www.knotandrope.com www.knotandrope.com

24 strand all gear deep woods 7/16
 
Samcirrus said:
I second or third 2TC. You don't need a rappel rope either! Just climb up then down the same way. It can be the safest, simplest,
and cheapest way to get started!
Click to expand...
Also most saddle hunters already have what they need to do it. My 2TC set up is as simple as I could make it. If someone wanted to try saddle hunting and save cash this is where I’d tell them to start with climbing methods. However it’s also not for everyone. Each climbing method is worth giving it some time to figure out
 
gcr0003 said:
To milk my rope I set my rope 80ft up in the 120ft sweet gum tree in my back yard and then I rappel all the way down on a simple atc. That gets all the milk out of it. Your method works too though. Lol


Edit: ^^^ that is a joke, don’t do that lol
Click to expand...
In all honesty I girth hitched around a tree at ground level, set up my fig8, and "rappelled" horizontally away from the tree a few times. Not sure if that's the 'right' way to milk a rope but it seemed to work.
 
Samcirrus said:
I second or third 2TC. You don't need a rappel rope either! Just climb up then down the same way. It can be the safest, simplest,
and cheapest way to get started!
Click to expand...
I’m definitely going to tinker around with it. Would be good to have in the tool belt for tall trees with no low branches.
 
Fl Canopy Stalker said:
Another excellent DDRT rope option is:
www.knotandrope.com

Deep Woods

This is a 7/16 rope with the unique feature of a second core which helps it stay round under load. This is the perfect line for any hunter looking for a line that blends into the woods. For climbing or lanyards, this rope fits the bill. Basically this is just like Blue Craze or Rocket Line. Made...
www.knotandrope.com www.knotandrope.com

24 strand all gear deep woods 7/16
Click to expand...
I just went ahead and got the sampson predator line. Seems to be a tried and true.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top