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No-Sew Micro Wraptor

Hey I started this thread thinking for $90-100 I can rig up a RCH and some kind of reasonable back support as a rainy day second saddle, and was looking for ideas and feedback. But in three pages—thanks the kindly input and experience of users on this site— learned for really not much more I can have a fully safe, two paneler where you customize every piece of the kit down to strength of materials, hardware, fit, color, bridge type, etc., that seems like a total win!
 
Hey I started this thread thinking for $90-100 I can rig up a RCH and some kind of reasonable back support as a rainy day second saddle, and was looking for ideas and feedback. But in three pages—thanks the kindly input and experience of users on this site— learned for really not much more I can have a fully safe, two paneler where you customize every piece of the kit down to strength of materials, hardware, fit, color, bridge type, etc., that seems like a total win!
Hey man, if you’re happy, we’re happy
 
Hey man, if you’re happy, we’re happy
That said, you might as well go ahead and take the $50-75 bucks you “were” gonna spend on frame buckles and buy a sewing machine, needles and some thread.

What are those ones that you can find really easy and sew like no bodies business 15-91? @jhunter13
 
Don’t tempt me. I’m in a weak spot and my wife says I have enough hobbies!
Just imagine making any saddle clone you can find. That’s worth the $50-75 investment if you were going to spend $100 on diy stuff anyway right?
 
That said, you might as well go ahead and take the $50-75 bucks you “were” gonna spend on frame buckles and buy a sewing machine, needles and some thread.

What are those ones that you can find really easy and sew like no bodies business 15-91? @jhunter13

@gcr0003 Ive made several saddles with my Singer 15-91s and often see them in great shape for under $40. You may have trouble finding any within 50 miles of me!!!
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@Fl Canopy Stalker with the AustriAlpin 1.75" triglides, do you think you can fit through two rows of 1" tubular webbing over top of 1.75" webbing? The 1" rows would have to overlap each other slightly.

I'm thinking for a lineman's belt to add some 1.75" rated triglides on the forward ends of the upper outside main webbing, run two horizontal rows of 1" tubular through them to make a continuous loop (with the "turn around" bend forming the LB loops standing forward of the 1.75" triglide maybe 6-8"), and then join the tag ends with a 1" rated triglide in the back.

Measuring my Sterling 1" tubular webbing, I found it actually measures about 15/16", which two courses equals 1-7/8". AustriAlpin's documents show the interior dimension of the triglide being slightly over 1.75" so there'd be right around 1/8" overlap in the horizontal 1" bands.

However I know unlike plastic hardware, those AustriAlpin triglides don't afford much wiggle room.
 
@Fl Canopy Stalker with the AustriAlpin 1.75" triglides, do you think you can fit through two rows of 1" tubular webbing over top of 1.75" webbing? The 1" rows would have to overlap each other slightly.

I'm thinking for a lineman's belt to add some 1.75" rated triglides on the forward ends of the upper outside main webbing, run two horizontal rows of 1" tubular through them to make a continuous loop (with the "turn around" bend forming the LB loops standing forward of the 1.75" triglide maybe 6-8"), and then join the tag ends with a 1" rated triglide in the back.

Measuring my Sterling 1" tubular webbing, I found it actually measures about 15/16", which two courses equals 1-7/8". AustriAlpin's documents show the interior dimension of the triglide being slightly over 1.75" so there'd be right around 1/8" overlap in the horizontal 1" bands.

However I know unlike plastic hardware, those AustriAlpin triglides don't afford much wiggle room.
The Austrialpin tri glides are really tight clearance, I think you could fit the 1” tubular webbing over the 1.75” webbing if you were using the fox racing steel triglide though
 
I could probably do the same idea with 3/4" nylon or polyester webbing. Or, Bluewater makes 5/8" tubular. Strapworks says they all rate at least 2300. Joining in a water knot would reduce the strength to a lower kN than I would prefer (on its own) but if on the assumption holds true that the basket configuration doubles the strength it'd end up at least at 13 kN. Should be good enough for LB loops.
 
I could probably do the same idea with 3/4" nylon or polyester webbing. Or, Bluewater makes 5/8" tubular. Strapworks says they all rate at least 2300. Joining in a water knot would reduce the strength to a lower kN than I would prefer (on its own) but if on the assumption holds true that the basket configuration doubles the strength it'd end up at least at 13 kN. Should be good enough for LB loops.
I toyed with the idea of some 3/4” webbing laid over/under so that it would fit in a 1.5 to 1.75 webbing area. If you check out Country Brook design, they have some heavy duty 3/4” nylon webbing with 3000 lbs break strength.
 
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