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Nock Tuning Bare Shafts is For Real

MathewsMan7

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 2, 2019
Messages
479
So I decided to take all my fletchings off that I just glued on and go back and bare shaft nock tune because I’m OCD and I was just curious how it would go...

After having to re-tune my bow (because my bare shafts showed I actually had a nock right tear that the fletched arrows were covering up) I started the nock tune process...I couldn’t believe the difference it made...I guess the Ranch Fairy (And The Wizard) know what they’re doing lol
Here’s just one example of many that I had...
020A7C16-D966-459D-ABD0-5E9C6DE6E994.png
If you guys have the time and are willing to put forth the effort to nock tune all your bare shafts prior to fletching, you’ll be amazed at how much better they fly. I couldn’t believe it, but there’s not a chance I won’t continue to do this for every arrow I build in the future.
 
I shot at 10 yards bareshaft with different point weights. My 250 spine arrow with 250 tip shot good,but was a little nock low. Should I shoot it through paper now? Before I move my rest.New to all of this. TIA
 
Well I guess I’ll have to cut the fletchings off and do the same lol they shoot well as is but this was the only step I skipped bc I bought fletched arrows. I got time so might as well.


Sent from parts unknown
 
I shot at 10 yards bareshaft with different point weights. My 250 spine arrow with 250 tip shot good,but was a little nock low. Should I shoot it through paper now? Before I move my rest.New to all of this. TIA
I would shoot through paper if you want to maximize efficiency and minimize the amount of work your fletching have to do in flight. It’s a bit tedious but...quarantine :)
 
I shot at 10 yards bareshaft with different point weights. My 250 spine arrow with 250 tip shot good,but was a little nock low. Should I shoot it through paper now? Before I move my rest.New to all of this. TIA
Also, if your rest is currently at centershot and arrow is level on the rest through the Berger hole, I would try and tune with your yoke system or top hat system (whatever system your bow uses) before you move the rest. Moving the rest obviously fixes the paper tears, but just want to be cognizant that your rest doesn’t move from centershot too much when it could be can lean or cam timing as the issue.
 
Yes! That was the problem. I switched out the top hats on just the top cam and immediately had no more cam lean and it fixed the severe right tear to a bare shaft bullet hole (with nock tuning implemented) without having to touch the rest.
 
Yes! That was the problem. I switched out the top hats on just the top cam and immediately had no more cam lean and it fixed the severe right tear to a bare shaft bullet hole (with nock tuning implemented) without having to touch the rest.

Right on, from how you explained it seemed like the same thing that happened to me.


Sent from parts unknown
 
I agree! I had pretty cool results myself. I paper tuned at first as well. Then I pushed the nock tune out to 20 just to see. Good stuff for sure!
 
@MathewsMan7 and anyone else that’s done this, I cut my fletchings off a few arrows and got them all shooting bullet holes but when I re-fletched then I shot the same arrows though paper and got a slight nock left tear. That happen to any of y’all? I’m assuming it’s just bc the dynamic spine changed with the adding of fletchings but want to see if anyone else experienced that. My new fletching are slightly small and about half the weight of the old ones so I’m sure that may play into it. Thanks fellas.


Sent from parts unknown
 
@MathewsMan7 and anyone else that’s done this, I cut my fletchings off a few arrows and got them all shooting bullet holes but when I re-fletched then I shot the same arrows though paper and got a slight nock left tear. That happen to any of y’all? I’m assuming it’s just bc the dynamic spine changed with the adding of fletchings but want to see if anyone else experienced that. My new fletching are slightly small and about half the weight of the old ones so I’m sure that may play into it. Thanks fellas.


Sent from parts unknown
Mine did not do that...was the tear bad or just very slight? Was it with all the arrows you re-fletched? Also, how far away from the paper were you when you bare shafted and when you shot them again with the fletchings?
 
Good to know MM7!! I gotta get going on this! I'm still dinkering with what I want to do for turkeys this spring... stay with my GR Whitetail Specials or go with Magnus Bullheads. I did order four .300 spine full length Victory V1's for the start of my heavy arrow build, I have the RF field point test kit AND Ethics' 100gr. stainless steel inserts.
 
Mine did not do that...was the tear bad or just very slight? Was it with all the arrows you re-fletched? Also, how far away from the paper were you when you bare shafted and when you shot them again with the fletchings?

It was only a slight tear, maybe 1/4”. Also just a touch nock high. Bare and fletch both from 7yards. One arrow is about 3/4” nock high but that arrow wouldn’t tune for me so I don’t count that one.

It started to rain on me so I had to close the garage door. I’m usually fairly consistent but I’ll reshoot tomorrow to check. Got to shoot one group at 30y before the rain and the grouped almost touching but idk. I’m not to concerned if it’s consistent with all, the adjustment would be very minor and I’m almost perfect center shot as is.


Sent from parts unknown
 
It was only a slight tear, maybe 1/4”. Also just a touch nock high. Bare and fletch both from 7yards. One arrow is about 3/4” nock high but that arrow wouldn’t tune for me so I don’t count that one.

It started to rain on me so I had to close the garage door. I’m usually fairly consistent but I’ll reshoot tomorrow to check. Got to shoot one group at 30y before the rain and the grouped almost touching but idk. I’m not to concerned if it’s consistent with all, the adjustment would be very minor and I’m almost perfect center shot as is.


Sent from parts unknown
That’s interesting...What rest do you run? I’m far from an expert, but the only thing I can think is to check your fletching clearance with regards to your riser...if you’re close to 13/16 I would think that you are fine...but if you’re bare shafting bullet holes and then fletched shafts produce tears, it could be a fletching clearance issue??
 
Can you guys post some pics of your paper tuning setup? I shoot in my backyard and can’t figure out how to rig something up on the cheap.
 
I made it out of pvc
 

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