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Nock Tuning Bare Shafts is For Real

Redoak47* said:
I shot at 10 yards bareshaft with different point weights. My 250 spine arrow with 250 tip shot good, but was a little nock low. Should I shoot it through paper now? Before I move my rest.New to all of this. TIA
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Get your bullet hole then shoot a bare shaft and a fletched 10 yards and then 20 yards and keep going if you want. Even if you shoot a bullet hole in the paper it does not mean your tune is done. Paper helps so you don't have to adjust as much once you go out to the range, The end all is bare shaft and fletched grouping together with nocks behind field points.
 
Gamover06 said:
Get your bullet hole then shoot a bare shaft and a fletched 10 yards and then 20 yards and keep going if you want. Even if you shoot a bullet hole in the paper it does not mean your tune is done. Paper helps so you don't have to adjust as much once you go out to the range, The end all is bare shaft and fletched grouping together with nocks behind field points.
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I’ve heard a lot of smart people say this. With a centershot bow, don’t walk back tune...bare shaft tuning after bullet hole in the paper is, like Gamover said, the right way to go about it with today’s compounds.
 
MathewsMan7 said:
That’s interesting...What rest do you run? I’m far from an expert, but the only thing I can think is to check your fletching clearance with regards to your riser...if you’re close to 13/16 I would think that you are fine...but if you’re bare shafting bullet holes and then fletched shafts produce tears, it could be a fletching clearance issue??
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QAD drop away. Not a clearance issue, no marks on fletching and these fletchings are smaller than old ones. I’m gonna run with it and see. If I do a few more arrows and it’s consistent then I’ll make a slight rest correction. If I’m right this will put my rest at perfect center shot with a slight move so we’ll see how it shakes out bc I’m about 1/16” off from center now. Thanks for the input.


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Well fellas, I nock tuned and was getting some funky business after re fletching and got sick of paper. I did a modified and reg French tune. I went from broad heads shooting 3-4” to the right to getting the same point of aim, point of impact with field tips and broadheads out to 40yards. I usually do this after paper tuning but got fed up and jumped right to it today and feel much better it’s done. Videos for the process I use are below made by somewhereinwisconsin on YouTube. It’s good stuff and recommend even after bareshaft tuning.








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DIY sportsman did a video a while back on making a cheap paper tuning setup out of PVC. It was an easy build. I use a roll of the white butcher paper on mine.

 
I just watched this video and it was new information for me. Didn’t think about face pressure on the string causing bad tears but it makes sense. I’m going to be checking this out if I’m getting tears.

 
I saw that video this morning as well...I had heard that face pressure would affect tears, but it was good to see just how much and that it’s not a myth...will definitely keep an eye out for this in the future with myself as well as other guys I set up.
 
MathewsMan7 said:
Also, if your rest is currently at centershot and arrow is level on the rest through the Berger hole, I would try and tune with your yoke system or top hat system (whatever system your bow uses) before you move the rest. Moving the rest obviously fixes the paper tears, but just want to be cognizant that your rest doesn’t move from centershot too much when it could be can lean or cam timing as the issue.
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You could also adjust your poundage a little bit. You would be surprised how an arrow reacts.
 
SnakeEater said:
Well fellas, I nock tuned and was getting some funky business after re fletching and got sick of paper. I did a modified and reg French tune. I went from broad heads shooting 3-4” to the right to getting the same point of aim, point of impact with field tips and broadheads out to 40yards. I usually do this after paper tuning but got fed up and jumped right to it today and feel much better it’s done. Videos for the process I use are below made by somewhereinwisconsin on YouTube. It’s good stuff and recommend even after bareshaft tuning.








Sent from parts unknown
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Great videos, thanks. I had a hard time paper tuning because I had flaws in my form that made bullet holes with a bare shaft initially difficult. It did however allow me to identify those flaws and start to work to correct them. This method would definitely be helpful on its own, or if paper tuning was driving you crazy.
 
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