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Off-Season Bow Tuning... Paying the price

BackSpasm

Well-Known Member
SH Member
Joined
Apr 10, 2019
Messages
1,635
Location
Tennessee
For the first time in my life I am taking the time this off season to really go through my bow (2018 RX-1) with a fine-toothed comb and get it up to to speed in all areas.

That has included:

Finally building a draw board
Re-serving peep and nose button
New rest pull cord/re-timing rest (what a shock to see how far off it was on the draw board)
Getting cams synced perfectly (also thought they were perfect until I got it on the board)
Replacing worn out rubber cable stops with new shrink wrap
Getting ATA and brace height to spec
Resetting centershot to spec with calipers
Micro tuning the rest with bare shafts
Paper tuning with different grain weight to test my spines ability to handle a lower point weight
Torquing and re loctite on all bolts/fitting
Installing new replacement grommet on corroded wrist strap
Rust removal and refinishing of quiver attachment bolts
Setting sight 2nd axis (3rd is still on the to do list)
Dialing in L/R on sight using a plumb bob hanging in front of my target (line up all pins with vertical line and fire)

I have done pieces and parts of all this over the years but never systematically taken the time to go through it all with a fine tooth comb bit by bit over the course of several weeks. It was a very rewarding process honestly.

I finally tossed a target out at 20 yards a few minutes ago and let an arrow fly. Everything felt good and the thump landed the arrow directly above my aiming point. I retrieved a second arrow, nocked it and let it fly but was confused to hear a different sound on impact. Welp, there went 11 dollars or so. Ouch. I guess she's tuned????


Anyone have ideas how to retrieve my ethics insert out of the front of the arrow I smashed? Them things are pricey!


Screen Shot 2023-03-05 at 4.24.18 PM.png
 
How much do you like fiberglass in your hands? Leather gloves and something to cut it.. maybe you can save it. Dremel tool. Just remember to vacuum the dust so you don't breather it.
 
How much do you like fiberglass in your hands? Leather gloves and something to cut it.. maybe you can save it. Dremel tool. Just remember to vacuum the dust so you don't breather it.
If the arrow is trash, use heat. Screw in an old field point and you can use a mini torch.


I had thought about these....

Was afraid I will damage the insert too much with a dremel but its definitely an idea

Do you think heat will help if the adhesive if I used 2 part epoxy? Would be really nice to recover that insert but may not be worth it
 
Nice! If you’re going to shoot at 20, use a target with different aiming points. You’ll still be able to see how your arrows would group by where they impact in relation to each aiming point. Alternatively, shoot at 40 if you can or more. Gives you a lot of confidence though after all that effort doesn’t it? Nice work!
 
Nice! If you’re going to shoot at 20, use a target with different aiming points. You’ll still be able to see how your arrows would group by where they impact in relation to each aiming point. Alternatively, shoot at 40 if you can or more. Gives you a lot of confidence though after all that effort doesn’t it? Nice work!
Normally I do.... but I figured hey its only 2 arrows lets see the group... whoops
 
I had thought about these....

Was afraid I will damage the insert too much with a dremel but its definitely an idea

Do you think heat will help if the adhesive if I used 2 part epoxy? Would be really nice to recover that insert but may not be worth it
Yes heat will soften up the epoxy....you can also peel the arrow like a banana when its nice and warm. The resin in the cf will soften too!
 
Yes heat will soften up the epoxy....you can also peel the arrow like a banana when its nice and warm. The resin in the cf will soften too!
This is exactly what should happen. I use 100g ethics inserts and have had to save several over the last few years. Every one of them from a perfectly placed double lung shot. Never from a tree or another arrow or fence.
 
Blue "cool" melt....I haven't had any issues/problem with it failing to speak of in the 3 years since I started using it....if I break and arrow or buy new arrows I can easily remove the inserts with hot water and reuse the insert

I used to use that but would occasionally lost inserts in dense targets
 
What was ur installation process?
Full prep with wire burring/sanding internals, isoproryl alchohol prep, the whole 9 yards. Just doesnt work as well for me as epoxy and I know multiple people who have had the same result especially with foam targets instead of bag targets.
 
I'd have to agree it doesn't work as well as epoxy for sure...and I guess I just been lucky. I shoot block style and 3d target...it's when the broadhead stuck in a tree or 4x4 is when it really gets a real work out....hahahahaba ....knock on wood not issues for me.....

I need to do a little over haul on my bow also...new string, replace a couple seized bolts, and retune
 
Wow that heat worked FLAWLESSLY thanks man!
Late to the party, but I thought I'd pass along something I stumbled across the first time I screwed up installing a halfout... my soldering iron tip happens to be threaded with the same thread specs as the inserts - IIRC 8-32. So a 2" bolt with the head clipped off will thread into both my soldering iron and the insert, and I can get the insert as hot as I need without dealing with flames etc. Clamp the iron in a vice, install the bolt into both the iron and the insert, let it heat up while pulling firmly on the shaft (that's what she said) and the insert will come out without drama. I'd keep an eye on how hot the carbon gets; not an issue with a ruined shaft but I'd be more comfortable relegating heated-up carbon shafts to either target duty or candidates for external footers.
 
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