• The SH Membership has gone live. Only SH Members have access to post in the classifieds. All members can view the classifieds. Starting in 2020 only SH Members will be admitted to the annual hunting contest. Current members will need to follow these steps to upgrade: 1. Click on your username 2. Click on Account upgrades 3. Choose SH Member and purchase.
  • We've been working hard the past few weeks to come up with some big changes to our vendor policies to meet the changing needs of our community. Please see the new vendor rules here: Vendor Access Area Rules

Old sewing machine clean up and repair thread

Phoenix V-Belt Pulley - 5/8in. Bore, 2in. Outside Dia. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008OTX82...abc_22CZBZW8GQHQ2QC5PXE9?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Consew CSM3000 Sewing Machine Electric Servo Motor, 110 Volt, 1HP, 750W https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N1L1P7...abc_H3TEH8V7S318DEDXTMVP?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

This is what I’m running on my machines. That’s a brushless 750w motor and a 2 inch pulley that fits it perfectly. Add that setup to an industrial machine and it will sew through anything at a super slow speed if you need it to
 
LeanMachine said:
Agreed. Personally I wouldn't sell the machine since you have so little into it. You can get another machine to fit on the same table and just swap the machines out as needed for each project. I have multiple machines and I'm considering setting one up for dedicated edge binding.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I'm a slow learner, so this may be common knowledge, but apparently THE way to do dedicated edge binding is with a cylinder arm machine like the Pfaff 335. News to me. This is because the edge binder rides on the plate that act as the feed dogs.
 
4090Sharps said:
I'm a slow learner, so this may be common knowledge, but apparently THE way to do dedicated edge binding is with a cylinder arm machine like the Pfaff 335. News to me. This is because the edge binder rides on the plate that act as the feed dogs.
Click to expand...
i do edge binding on my juki 8700. My big machines with walking foot just destroy the binding. The 8700 does a fine job with it
 
JCLINE84 said:
i do edge binding on my juki 8700. My big machines with walking foot just destroy the binding. The 8700 does a fine job with it
Click to expand...


The key with the walking foot (for me) is the right angle binder with binding feet, feed dogs, and needle plate. My Singer 20U33 (drop feed) and Consew 332R (needle feed) do pretty good as well. Even still, they don't do as well as that Pfaff above when it comes to tight curves.
 
4090Sharps said:

The key with the walking foot (for me) is the right angle binder with binding feet, feed dogs, and needle plate. My Singer 20U33 (drop feed) and Consew 332R (needle feed) do pretty good as well. Even still, they don't do as well as that Pfaff above when it comes to tight curves.
Click to expand...
For sure. I hand wheel and work the presser foot on the curves. Time consuming but good results if you hold your mouth just right lol
 
I don’t know what language you guys are talking in, but I’ll assume it has to do with sewing machines from the video.

@JCLINE84 was nice enough to offer me his old servo motor that he had since upgraded. Once I get it in and the materials, needles, and oil I’m gonna give this sewing thing a shot.
 
Well I popped the hood and I’m off to a dirty start. The motor came in today so I got to get this girl ready to run. May be harder then I thought! B7269ADD-612C-4C80-8460-C038C5C7250F.jpeg
 
2B6818FC-F56F-4BE7-9187-CA7E5993CA4D.pngCEF64F93-A6CB-42AA-863D-CA69333ECC6D.png
Cleaning is coming along. The rust is all superficial from what I can tell. There was a bunch of dust and thread in there so I’m taking a few minutes to clean it up a little or as much as I can while I’m looking at it. The mechanisms still feel smooth. I’m not feeling any catches, friction or clanking.
 
gcr0003 said:
View attachment 44492View attachment 44493
Cleaning is coming along. The rust is all superficial from what I can tell. There was a bunch of dust and thread in there so I’m taking a few minutes to clean it up a little or as much as I can while I’m looking at it. The mechanisms still feel smooth. I’m not feeling any catches, friction or clanking.
Click to expand...
Soak it overnight in a tub of kerosene. I found an old singer once that I bought for nothing because it was so filthy I couldn’t tell much about it. Soaked it and oiled it and it turned out to be in perfect shape down to the paint being perfect. Just be sure to let it dry good and oil it after
 
Doesn’t look like much but I went from the needle hitting and not pulling up thread from the bottom to this. Now I just need to get the right needle and thread size and adjust it to the right tension. I was just seeing if the time was close enough that it would actually thread. Turns out it does! Baby steps.
5D94BA2D-BCF8-4BD8-8C9D-E351E86DBC04.pngEB41D3F0-1832-4065-B2BF-C3C1168CE5B8.png
 
gcr0003 said:
Doesn’t look like much but I went from the needle hitting and not pulling up thread from the bottom to this. Now I just need to get the right needle and thread size and adjust it to the right tension. I was just seeing if the time was close enough that it would actually thread. Turns out it does! Baby steps.
View attachment 44502View attachment 44503
Click to expand...

Bet it feels great to finally have that machine making stitches!
 
Had some issues with the pressure foot left off spring. The sewing machine I have is doesn’t have reverse so I have to bring the presser foot up to lock the stitch as well as change sharp direction. Additionally I had issue with the tension of the stitch until I got the correct bobbin for my machine. I was able to get the machine tensioned properly after a lot of tinkering but was still getting loops anywhere I let the pressure foot up at. In talking with @JCLINE84 I was able to identify the spring in question and try to fix the problem. I tried to adjust it but it was simply shot. I bought a new spring and that was the fix. I readjusted everything and got the sewing machine running and stitching well. Since then I have bought all the material to make a saddle and other things but haven’t touched the thing since I fixed it. I’m finally going to tackle making my first saddle this weekend. I’m going to post the process because I think it will help encourage me to follow through and complete this thing.

This machine paired up with the motor I got from Jamie’s old machine is making good stitches for up to 4 pieces of seatbelt webbing. It struggled to do 8 pieces but would go once you got it started; however, the thread was then maxed out on tension and would break periodically. I don’t plan I doing anything that thick, I was just seeing what it would do.

the pictures show before and after adjustments with new springB7B0982A-81F6-449F-BA50-C3E5F675D162.png
FD473979-F99E-49F0-8E99-CF42C520FD52.png38A91BB9-D92D-42DF-9AF3-FEFEB7BD4209.png034389AA-D7FD-400D-9008-97A15E7A2FE4.png
 
I posted this in my build thread but though I’d post here too to many get quicker help. The Current problem is the thread is getting frayed or cut or something. At few stitches in a piece of the thread gets severed and messes up everything. I always noticed the plate cover hole that the needle goes through looked rough so I imagine that’s what’s fraying if. I tried to smooth it out but I don’t really have anything that size to fix it. I guess I’ll need to buy a new plate. Here’s what the thread looks like as it messes up. Thoughts? I changed the needle out… no change.8E3408A1-88C4-483F-AA1E-6D9C20CFD319.png6EE55CCD-5BEF-491E-988B-D76C5EBBF1F7.png
 
Round 2 with a singer 111w155. Going to take some kerosene and a brush to her tomorrow and see what we are working with. I know I’ll need to purchase bobbins, needles, bobbin cover, and maybe a few other things.24C61024-0360-462A-8E8B-100E557A24A9.jpeg
40A40F43-4D86-4A7F-9AB0-469FA90285F8.jpeg4A2F9755-B0D4-4CD1-8826-D61CE58B96F7.png
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top