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OpLux with friction hitch options

What is the advantage of this knot over the Prusik? I’m scared that there is two more knots that you are relying on and taking care of over a Prusik tied with a jammy. What about using this with a “Prusik cord” that could mes with two sewn eyes

The knot in the picture you copied is the Schwabisch. It’s similar to a Distel hitch and both are much easier to tend than a Prusik.

The knots that form the eyes are called poachers knots or fisherman’s loop. They are commonly used in this configuration in the climbing world.

Yes, sewn eyes are stronger and require less knowledge. Use what you’re comfortable with.


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I just switched to oplux and got some trc from DanO. Went with the distel and it works great. I haven't gone to a tender yet but thinking about it. Skyjacker, where did you get your shizzl and what caribiner is that?



This is not the same carabiner as in the picture. But I like this one better. It's cheaper, bigger and lighter. The bigger oval shape works better with webbing bridges.
 
I guess I am way behind - what is the deal with OpLux? I see it gaining a lot of traction just haven't heard of it or had time to read about it - its hunting season :)
 
I guess I am way behind - what is the deal with OpLux? I see it gaining a lot of traction just haven't heard of it or had time to read about it - its hunting season :)

8mm rope that is stronger than 9mm HTP and packs maybe to half the size.
 
This is my tether, using a friction hitch on both my tether and LB.

Still torn between the Beal cord and TRC on my OpLux, both work.

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Im currently using the oplux for tether and LB, both with TRC in distel hitch with mini kong tenders. Looking for your feedback on which you feel is better TRC vs Beal 5.5? I feel the TRC can be a touch grabby on the oplux for tether, but zero issues on LB. Just wondering if the Beal 5.5 is any better?

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Im currently using the oplux for tether and LB, both with TRC in distel hitch with mini kong tenders. Looking for your feedback on which you feel is better TRC vs Beal 5.5? I feel the TRC can be a touch grabby on the oplux for tether, but zero issues on LB. Just wondering if the Beal 5.5 is any better?

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I think @DanO said that Sterling recommends TRC as a friction hitch for Oplux. I'm just going to roll with what the manufacturer says.
 
Im currently using the oplux for tether and LB, both with TRC in distel hitch with mini kong tenders. Looking for your feedback on which you feel is better TRC vs Beal 5.5? I feel the TRC can be a touch grabby on the oplux for tether, but zero issues on LB. Just wondering if the Beal 5.5 is any better?

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After messing with both for a few days I’m leaning more towards the TRC. Mainly because it performs similar to ropes I’m more familiar with.

The Beal Cordelette is lighter and stronger and certainly works.


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This is not the same carabiner as in the picture. But I like this one better. It's cheaper, bigger and lighter. The bigger oval shape works better with webbing bridges.
Thanks! I have that biner in my Amazon cart already, just didn't pull the trigger yet. I saw the shizzl on treestuff but it's out of stock. Just found one through east coast lumber.
 
The advantage to having these additional knots on your tether is they are right in front of your eyes and hopefully you would notice immediately if they were coming untied. I have been adding a secondary tether to my main tether just for my peace of mind. The only advantage to these other hitches seems to be they can be adjusted easily with one hand so they move easily. The disadvantage to them is that they might move too easily or worse yet come untied.
 
The advantage to having these additional knots on your tether is they are right in front of your eyes and hopefully you would notice immediately if they were coming untied. I have been adding a secondary tether to my main tether just for my peace of mind. The only advantage to these other hitches seems to be they can be adjusted easily with one hand so they move easily. The disadvantage to them is that they might move too easily or worse yet come untied.
I've been meaning to post this for a while.

The advantage of e.g. the distel is that it releases easily after loading.

The disadvantage of the distel is that you need to be somewhat more careful about dressing it thsn a prusik, and if you grab it while loaded it can/will release to a greater extent than tbe prusik. A stopper knot is critical. Being mentally prepared to not clutch at your knot is a big plus (but no guarantee in a true emergency!). The Ropeman's ability to not release when grabbed is part of why it achieved the popularity as a protection device that led to it being tested and found to cut the rope as low at 3.5 kn.

So there are absolutely some new and different hazards with using user-friendly hitches. In my opinion they are more easily managed and accounted for than those of toothed ascender devices. But they exist and you should know them.
 
I've been meaning to post this for a while.

The advantage of e.g. the distel is that it releases easily after loading.

The disadvantage of the distel is that you need to be somewhat more careful about dressing it thsn a prusik, and if you grab it while loaded it can/will release to a greater extent than tbe prusik. A stopper knot is critical. Being mentally prepared to not clutch at your knot is a big plus (but no guarantee in a true emergency!). The Ropeman's ability to not release when grabbed is part of why it achieved the popularity as a protection device that led to it being tested and found to cut the rope as low at 3.5 kn.

So there are absolutely some new and different hazards with using user-friendly hitches. In my opinion they are more easily managed and accounted for than those of toothed ascender devices. But they exist and you should know them.
Wow. Great safety post. When I grab my Klemheist it does not release although it feels like it wants to. Maybe I will just go back to the hard to release prusik, maybe try the asymmetrical version.
 
I've been meaning to post this for a while.

The advantage of e.g. the distel is that it releases easily after loading.

The disadvantage of the distel is that you need to be somewhat more careful about dressing it thsn a prusik, and if you grab it while loaded it can/will release to a greater extent than tbe prusik. A stopper knot is critical. Being mentally prepared to not clutch at your knot is a big plus (but no guarantee in a true emergency!). The Ropeman's ability to not release when grabbed is part of why it achieved the popularity as a protection device that led to it being tested and found to cut the rope as low at 3.5 kn.

So there are absolutely some new and different hazards with using user-friendly hitches. In my opinion they are more easily managed and accounted for than those of toothed ascender devices. But they exist and you should know them.

Yes, the distel will release when you grab it as designed. That's one reason I really like the 8mm OpLux/TRC combination. The TRC grips the OpLux well and the release down the rope is very controlled. I would definitely CATION everyone to test their specific system at ground level. Once tight, my tether and LB hitches remain on the rope and in a dump pouch.

*Everyone should be using a stopper on their tether regardless of knot or device. I've seen several overhand knots, that's not considered a stopper knot. There are many that are suitable.

With that. The ability to adjust a distel down your tether is a safety plus from my perspective; definitely a plus over the RM1. Be familiar with the equipment you're using.
 
I've been meaning to post this for a while.

The advantage of e.g. the distel is that it releases easily after loading.

The disadvantage of the distel is that you need to be somewhat more careful about dressing it thsn a prusik, and if you grab it while loaded it can/will release to a greater extent than tbe prusik. A stopper knot is critical. Being mentally prepared to not clutch at your knot is a big plus (but no guarantee in a true emergency!). The Ropeman's ability to not release when grabbed is part of why it achieved the popularity as a protection device that led to it being tested and found to cut the rope as low at 3.5 kn.

So there are absolutely some new and different hazards with using user-friendly hitches. In my opinion they are more easily managed and accounted for than those of toothed ascender devices. But they exist and you should know them.
I currently run 8mm sewn prussic cords, as distels, on 11mm Velocity Hot for both my tether and lineman’s belt. I love using them. That being said, I took everyone’s advice and learned my system while only 3 foot off the ground. I quickly discovered that the distel hitch will “take off” on you just like @mattsteg said. I grabbed the distel and went to slide it down while loaded and was standing on the ground in about 3 seconds! ( My tether is 10 ft so I didn’t reach my stopper knot before I touched the ground) I learned right then to hold the tag end just below my Biner and slowly release the distel with my other hand. This keeps the distel somewhat loaded and it slowly lowers you. I also started tying my tether’s tag end into a figure 8 and hooking it onto my tether Biner as a stopper and backup. That’s what works for me ,at least. And BTW I’m gonna swap to to Oplux with either the Beal cord or the TRC tied into distels when @DanO gets it back in stock. Those Velocity Ropes are nice but they’re HUGE compared to the pics I’m seeing of the Oplux stuff. And they’re Orange! LOL
 
Wow. Great safety post. When I grab my Klemheist it does not release although it feels like it wants to. Maybe I will just go back to the hard to release prusik, maybe try the asymmetrical version.

A prusik will absolutely release when you squeeze it. Although not as good as an autoblock, it is used as a backup on rappel. The advantage of the distel over the prusik is that it's easier to release if you want to move it UP your rope.
 
I currently run 8mm sewn prussic cords, as distels, on 11mm Velocity Hot for both my tether and lineman’s belt. I love using them. That being said, I took everyone’s advice and learned my system while only 3 foot off the ground. I quickly discovered that the distel hitch will “take off” on you just like @mattsteg said. I grabbed the distel and went to slide it down while loaded and was standing on the ground in about 3 seconds! ( My tether is 10 ft so I didn’t reach my stopper knot before I touched the ground) I learned right then to hold the tag end just below my Biner and slowly release the distel with my other hand. This keeps the distel somewhat loaded and it slowly lowers you. I also started tying my tether’s tag end into a figure 8 and hooking it onto my tether Biner as a stopper and backup. That’s what works for me ,at least. And BTW I’m gonna swap to to Oplux with either the Beal cord or the TRC tied into distels when @DanO gets it back in stock. Those Velocity Ropes are nice but they’re HUGE compared to the pics I’m seeing of the Oplux stuff. And they’re Orange! LOL

I think you'll find the combination of the OpLux and the TRC to be excellent. The TRC is much more "grabby" than the older nylon rope materials. Some of the larger cords don't bite as well.
 
A prusik will absolutely release when you squeeze it. Although not as good as an autoblock, it is used as a backup on rappel. The advantage of the distel over the prusik is that it's easier to release if you want to move it UP your rope.
Once my prusik has taken my full bodyweight, it is difficult to release. I could grab the knot and lean over backwards and it will not release. I have to unweight it and twist the knot to release. More so when I used a 4 turn prusik with the Beal Jammy.
 
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