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Ordered a Recon, how has everyone improved upon it?

Got my recon yesterday. Here’s where I’m at so far. Only been in the back yard so far but I’m kinda liking it.
1. removed stock belt
2. White rope with cobra weave paracord for walk in and climb.
3. nite ize knot bone bungee hooked to some paracord to keep sling from falling down while adjusting in the tree.
If anyone has any suggestions on how to make this better I’d love to hear them.7F83BE64-2165-4788-80F4-B81B26C52C5A.jpeg3727DBDB-7C25-4637-9611-D617D375638A.jpeg
 
Changing the stock belt to a bungee cord or elastic is the most common mod from what I've read on here.

I recall one person posting that they put on some more permanent leg straps and a few added an adjustable bridge, but those seem to be way less common modifications.

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I have a question... has anyone has removed the belt plates and sewn a belt along the upper panel like the latitude? Seems like it would be more comfortable in the hip area having only one set of plates. As well as help keeping the saddle up with a couple of pouches on it. I’ve been debating trying it out.


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I have a question... has anyone has removed the belt plates and sewn a belt along the upper panel like the latitude? Seems like it would be more comfortable in the hip area having only one set of plates. As well as help keeping the saddle up with a couple of pouches on it. I’ve been debating trying it out.


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One of Mark's prototypes was done that way. It was terrible to walk in because the belt pulled only on the top section which allowed the bottom to sag and flop. Slings really do need to have the belt pull evenly in the 2 sections, thats why the belt attaches to the plates.

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I have a question... has anyone has removed the belt plates and sewn a belt along the upper panel like the latitude? Seems like it would be more comfortable in the hip area having only one set of plates. As well as help keeping the saddle up with a couple of pouches on it. I’ve been debating trying it out.


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Check out the recon revamp thread. I think someone may have done that in that thread
 
I stole some ideas from the method and ess to fine tune my recon to fit my needs. Started with flippingthe panels, sewed in a belt, legs straps with g clips, and two little tags on the back lower panel to keep it up while walking and holding my sticks and platform while climbing. Loving this saddle now.
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I just got my recon about a 1/2 hr ago with some changes Mark did for me @ NC. Can you see what they are..?
Had to wait for the black G clip w/ the spring to come in so it was a little over a month. I can't say enough good things about Mark and his attention to detail and openness to ideas when I'm sure he is swamped with projects and production. I ordered a medium and a small for my neighbor.
Just like Bstrong I also did a ton of research off this site, reviewed pics of many angles of the Latitude, the ESS and came up with a modified version similar to some key points I thought were the best of all 3. My only reference was a one afternoons use of a Tethrd Phantom. Never been in a saddle before that.
What do you think?
Thanks, Steve
 

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Luckylakes,

I would be sure to have those G hooks inserted from the top rather than from the bottom. The one on the left in the first picture I would think would be easily undone. I don't use leg straps though.

How are you keeping the panels together when walking? Have you tested this? I believe the idea of a belt was tested for the Recon, but that it did not work as you need the tension on the metal plates in order to keep the panels together while walking. I carry my Recon in my pack though.

Some have put a buckle on the tag ends of the bridge webbing to solve this issue. You might need a longer bridge though to accomplish this.
 
Navigator,
Yes the 1st pic may be deceiving but they come in from the top just like the ESS BUT have a tighter clip slot to slip into so they can't come loose as easy like the ESS video did or you could order the adjustable strap spring clip from latitude.

One issue is the TH bridge plate verses the ESS bridge/strap ring which is a different concept. I like the rubber coated bridge plate better but the application of safety strap location on the ESS is better. My mod is a compromise between the two. The only way to fix that on the TH would be a 4th horizontal slot below the 2" web vertical slot. You then could run a clip strap through it. If you try to go through the vertical 2" plate slot you could use 1/2" strapping material doubled instead of one 1" with a different clip.. and then the 2" web will wear and be restricted.

I did not like new belt buckle version going through the 2" bridge slots w/ plastic retainers on the ends. Note the attached pic of the lower panel tucked above the molle strap and the orientation of where the buckle strap sewing stops in pic #1. This allows a tight cinch on the upper panel and when the lower panel is pushed up it stays in that location. While I have not tromped through the woods yet I did wear it like that the remainder of the day doing odd jobs with no slippage down.

I did review A. Tom's bungee concept when I was doing my saddle research before my 1st saddle purchase but I wanted more security and my take solves that for now. The bungee when climbing is a great idea so as you move it stays tight whereas the buckle could slip some based on your belly shape or clothing restrictions.

Until I spend some time in the tree, I like where I'm at now and solved my concerns and proud to buy an American made product from my native state with great factory support.
 

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I had one it was great. But because im all belly and no hieny the second panel drove me nuts and sagged.
the other thing i wasnt crazy about was early on with light clothes. The bottom panel would squeeze my back end and pinch on the seams. My fluff would squeeze through the holes lmao.
its an awesome saddle but im a but to fluffy back there for me.
I do have an ultimate saddle made by Mark.
ultimate is a single panel and is a really nice comfortable saddle.
I use suspenders so both saddles just are not comforming enough to the front to work for me.
i like a saddle that actually wraps more around me and comes back out front of me.
I think thet are built like terhred saddles are mostly for little guys.
hope that makes sense.
 
Navigator,
Yes the 1st pic may be deceiving but they come in from the top just like the ESS BUT have a tighter clip slot to slip into so they can't come loose as easy like the ESS video did or you could order the adjustable strap spring clip from latitude.

One issue is the TH bridge plate verses the ESS bridge/strap ring which is a different concept. I like the rubber coated bridge plate better but the application of safety strap location on the ESS is better. My mod is a compromise between the two. The only way to fix that on the TH would be a 4th horizontal slot below the 2" web vertical slot. You then could run a clip strap through it. If you try to go through the vertical 2" plate slot you could use 1/2" strapping material doubled instead of one 1" with a different clip.. and then the 2" web will wear and be restricted.

I did not like new belt buckle version going through the 2" bridge slots w/ plastic retainers on the ends. Note the attached pic of the lower panel tucked above the molle strap and the orientation of where the buckle strap sewing stops in pic #1. This allows a tight cinch on the upper panel and when the lower panel is pushed up it stays in that location. While I have not tromped through the woods yet I did wear it like that the remainder of the day doing odd jobs with no slippage down.

I did review A. Tom's bungee concept when I was doing my saddle research before my 1st saddle purchase but I wanted more security and my take solves that for now. The bungee when climbing is a great idea so as you move it stays tight whereas the buckle could slip some based on your belly shape or clothing restrictions.

Until I spend some time in the tree, I like where I'm at now and solved my concerns and proud to buy an American made product from my native state with great factory support.
I like the belt idea as that's my primary complaint with the stock belt. However, I wonder if that will prevent some of the adjustments related to the webbing sliding through the plates.

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Sweats,
Seems like it will work fine but I'll know this week after being in a tree. The limiting factor is you can only slide it so far back as the line loops are one stop. You have 5.5" of travel on each side before the lineman loop/G hook clip interferes. When I hung off a post it sure seems pretty centered up. I'm 200lbs, 6' and my saddle is a medium. If you get the wrong sizing it may be an issue.

When I used the TN Phantom you are locked in and your adjustments were the belt clip tightness, G clip leg tightness, comfort channel pitch, and bridge length. As far as rotating around the tree and turning to shoot other angles the bridge slid thru the beaner. The Tree Hopper will do all that and allow more adjustments from hips to thighs.. BUT like I said a post isn't a tree and will post some more later
 

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I like the belt idea as that's my primary complaint with the stock belt. However, I wonder if that will prevent some of the adjustments related to the webbing sliding through the plates.

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I had no issues with mine. I climbed and sat / messed around with it for a hour last night.

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Sweats,
Seems like it will work fine but I'll know this week after being in a tree. The limiting factor is you can only slide it so far back as the line loops are one stop. You have 5.5" of travel on each side before the lineman loop/G hook clip interferes. When I hung off a post it sure seems pretty centered up. I'm 200lbs, 6' and my saddle is a medium. If you get the wrong sizing it may be an issue.

When I used the TN Phantom you are locked in and your adjustments were the belt clip tightness, G clip leg tightness, comfort channel pitch, and bridge length. As far as rotating around the tree and turning to shoot other angles the bridge slid thru the beaner. The Tree Hopper will do all that and allow more adjustments from hips to thighs.. BUT like I said a post isn't a tree and will post some more later

Luckylakes,

As you can see in the first picture, that G-hook is coming up through the bottom of the leg loop connector, rather than from the top. Compare that to your other side where the G hook is coming in from the top of the leg loop connector. The connections of the right and left leg loops are opposite.

In the second picture you can clearly see that the leg loop connections are opposite, one coming in from the top and one coming in from the bottom. These pictures (as well as the ones you posted before) are not deceiving. Now you may have made the connector webbing constricting, but to be safe why not have them coming in from the top? All you need to do is rethread the G-hook on the right side.
 
Navigator,
Yes I understand what you are saying now, nice observation! I did not catch that both open ends of the G hooks are not pointed toward the hips with the "curved" buckle strap cinching to the outside like the ESS which are mirror images. If I changed it as suggested the RH "curved" part of the buckle would be on the inside and pulling the strap from the inside not the outside. Not much I can do other than order a LH G clip or hit it with a hammer and make them both flat. I bet that aluminum is brittle not like the softer malleable type with less strength. Am I missing something obvious again?
I'll just but 2ea latitude G clips with SS spring keepers

Bstrong I see you used an HK rifle sling clip. Are those clipped onto the bridge plate straps u added? I can't tell from the hook up @ the bridge plate?
I see the G clip with the safety spring clip on the lower panel like mine.
 
Navigator,
Yes I understand what you are saying now, nice observation! I did not catch that both open ends of the G hooks are not pointed toward the hips with the "curved" buckle strap cinching to the outside like the ESS which are mirror images. If I changed it as suggested the RH "curved" part of the buckle would be on the inside and pulling the strap from the inside not the outside. Not much I can do other than order a LH G clip or hit it with a hammer and make them both flat. I bet that aluminum is brittle not like the softer malleable type with less strength. Am I missing something obvious again?
I'll just but 2ea latitude G clips with SS spring keepers

Bstrong I see you used an HK rifle sling clip. Are those clipped onto the bridge plate straps u added? I can't tell from the hook up @ the bridge plate?
I see the G clip with the safety spring clip on the lower panel like mine.

You could reroute the webbing such that the webbing still pulls from the outside, but you would still have the issue of the curved piece being on the inside. You would have to take the webbing completely out and reroute it, rather than just flipping the G hook. But is that curve really an issue as most leg loops are not pulled really tight? The more expensive solution is to by LH G clip.
 
Navigator,
The curve in the G clip pinches the strap properly so for now I'll just keep the clip reversed and pull from the inside until I get a new LH clip. I'll then just use the clip on a roll up rope pouch I'm going to make.
 
Navigator,
Yes I understand what you are saying now, nice observation! I did not catch that both open ends of the G hooks are not pointed toward the hips with the "curved" buckle strap cinching to the outside like the ESS which are mirror images. If I changed it as suggested the RH "curved" part of the buckle would be on the inside and pulling the strap from the inside not the outside. Not much I can do other than order a LH G clip or hit it with a hammer and make them both flat. I bet that aluminum is brittle not like the softer malleable type with less strength. Am I missing something obvious again?
I'll just but 2ea latitude G clips with SS spring keepers

Bstrong I see you used an HK rifle sling clip. Are those clipped onto the bridge plate straps u added? I can't tell from the hook up @ the bridge plate?
I see the G clip with the safety spring clip on the lower panel like mine.

Navigator,
Yes I understand what you are saying now, nice observation! I did not catch that both open ends of the G hooks are not pointed toward the hips with the "curved" buckle strap cinching to the outside like the ESS which are mirror images. If I changed it as suggested the RH "curved" part of the buckle would be on the inside and pulling the strap from the inside not the outside. Not much I can do other than order a LH G clip or hit it with a hammer and make them both flat. I bet that aluminum is brittle not like the softer malleable type with less strength. Am I missing something obvious again?
I'll just but 2ea latitude G clips with SS spring keepers

Bstrong I see you used an HK rifle sling clip. Are those clipped onto the bridge plate straps u added? I can't tell from the hook up @ the bridge plate?
I see the G clip with the safety spring clip on the lower panel like mine.

Lucky lakes the HK clips in to
the bottom panel. I sewed a small loop on the outside of the lower panel. These keeps the bottom panel pulled up as I walk in. When I start to climb I unclip the lower panel and use the HK clip to hold my climbing sticks in place as I climb. Here are a couple better pictures.
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Bstrong,
Nice... looks like you got'er figured out..
Hey, did you ever try slipping the lower panel under and up above the waist belt like my pic? I also tried it that way and before putting the belt on too but have not walked any distance yet..

I may end up putting it in my pack too as most of the state land I hunt is loaded with multiflora rose and don't want my webbing torn up.. Its virtually impossible not to touch something walking in..

How do you like the dump pouch set ups your using?
 
I hadn’t tried the panel above like you have it setup. I tend to carry a backpack once the temps start dropping and have some good walks. Figured that would just put uncomfortable pressure points on my back. I personally like the method pouches. They are big enough but not heavy. I run two for early season so I don’t have to carry a pack. I also walk in with my bibs so I like to wear in my saddle. I girth hitched my lineman’s belt and will actually crank that down for my walk in. I can get it tighter than the belt and it keeps everything in place. I leave the belt just lose enough that I can adjust in the tree without having to adjust the belt. My main reason for the belt and leg loops were to hold it in place when I made adjustments and I just didn’t feel safe with just the bungee belt.


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