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Part 2 The best approach to get to hunting

katiesmom

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Aug 21, 2020
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1,160
Location
East Alabama
Okay folks, I bought a lefthanded used Bear Super Kodiak, 60 inches. 40#@28. With me it will be 34#@25. (It's awesome looking, BTW!)

Now we get to arrows. I think I want aluminum arrows, with feathers, either 4 or 5 inch, and I'd really like to take my 200 gr Iron Will broadheads from my compound and use them. But I'm not hung up on using them.

I can't for the life of me figure out what length my arrows should start with. I plan on doing what was suggested in my last post with several different spined arrows to try.
But length...26 27,28,29 inches??

Thanks for any suggestions.
 
7/24 update. I'm shooting my Sage with 35# limbs now. Using Easton xx75 gamegetters 500s with 5 inch feathers cut at 28 inches with 100 grain insert.

These are my first shots at 12 yards with a 200 gr field point.

I'm starting to get there I think. Thanks to all.
 

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7/24 update. I'm shooting my Sage with 35# limbs now. Using Easton xx75 gamegetters 500s with 5 inch feathers cut at 28 inches with 100 grain insert.

These are my first shots at 12 yards with a 200 gr field point.

I'm starting to get there I think. Thanks to all.
So you’re pulling 29#?
 
I’d be very curious to see what those arrows are doing bareshaft.
For reference I’ve shot 500 spine arrows with 250 grains up front from a 42# longbow with a 28” draw length. My mind says those arrows are entirely way too stiff for a 25” draw and 29#.

I would be curious too. People think my setup is way too weak when they see the numbers, but it bareshafts perfectly for me. This could be the case here.
 
At that draw and weight it would better to use a 700 to 600 spine shaft and front load. The 500 spine is way to stiff for that draw weight and length. You would want to use that draw weight with a appropriate spine shaft to maximize performance and yes 5” feathers will cover up a lot of mistakes and make that arrow appear to fly perfect. Strip the feathers off one and see how it flys from 10 yards
 
I should explain that I matched my arrows using my goal draw weight of 39#@25. I'm working up to that draw weight which is 45#@28 limbs on my Sage.

I just don't have the funds to buy new arrows every time I increase my limb weight.

Having said all that, I will strip one of the arrows and shoot it bare shaft and let you know.

I really do appreciate the discussion.
 
I can totally understand the cost of arrows I understand you want to increase your draw weight there are several exercises that can help that and it does take a little time and even with your goal weight of 39#@25” I personally feel the 500 spine might still be a little stiff for you and 600 spine would be a better choice for you at your current draw weight but of course with a heavier weight head and you still could use it at your target weight. I will dig around this week and see if I have some shafts you can have that will work for you. Keep it up it’s a learning process that’s for sure
 
I can totally understand the cost of arrows I understand you want to increase your draw weight there are several exercises that can help that and it does take a little time and even with your goal weight of 39#@25” I personally feel the 500 spine might still be a little stiff for you and 600 spine would be a better choice for you at your current draw weight but of course with a heavier weight head and you still could use it at your target weight. I will dig around this week and see if I have some shafts you can have that will work for you. Keep it up it’s a learning process that’s for sure
Thank you!
 
There's another way to simulate increasing your spine as you move up in draw weight. If you add material to your strike plate it makes the spine more stiff. I experimented with that a little bit last summer when I was building new arrows. It didn't take much material to make a difference in how stiff the arrows shot. Just the width of a toothpick made a big difference for me.
So you could go with 600 or 700 shafts and then build out the strike plate as you get stronger.
 
I should explain that I matched my arrows using my goal draw weight of 39#@25. I'm working up to that draw weight which is 45#@28 limbs on my Sage.

I just don't have the funds to buy new arrows every time I increase my limb weight.

Having said all that, I will strip one of the arrows and shoot it bare shaft and let you know.

I really do appreciate the discussion.
I wish I had the 1916’s and 1816’s from my old stash. I would send them to you. Mostly for the sake of your brain. I know it drives me crazy shooting arrows with a wobble or not quite in tune. Hopefully you have more patience than I.


There's another way to simulate increasing your spine as you move up in draw weight. If you add material to your strike plate it makes the spine more stiff. I experimented with that a little bit last summer when I was building new arrows. It didn't take much material to make a difference in how stiff the arrows shot. Just the width of a toothpick made a big difference for me.
So you could go with 600 or 700 shafts and then build out the strike plate as you get stronger.
I think I recall the old wood arrow standard that 1/8” of side plate adjustment is equal to roughly 7-10# of draw weight or one spine group. Don’t hold me to that quote but it’s something close to that.
 
The shafts I sent you is going to be thinner than the arrows you are currently using so keep that in mind when you shoot them they will be closer in so you might have to build out the rest
 
Okay folks, I bought a lefthanded used Bear Super Kodiak, 60 inches. 40#@28. With me it will be 34#@25. (It's awesome looking, BTW!)

Now we get to arrows. I think I want aluminum arrows, with feathers, either 4 or 5 inch, and I'd really like to take my 200 gr Iron Will broadheads from my compound and use them. But I'm not hung up on using them.

I can't for the life of me figure out what length my arrows should start with. I plan on doing what was suggested in my last post with several different spined arrows to try.
But length...26 27,28,29 inches??

Thanks for any suggestions.


i had to go to a shop. I tried out full length carbons, since I knew I was going to do weighted inserts (75 gr) and then use 125 heads. I like a longer arrow for gapping, since it makes smaller gaps. they shot just a bit weak, so we trimmed them till they flew straight without fletching, then `bought a dozen.
 
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