Point on?

[bigcat93]

Been really trying to shoot more and get a feel for trajectory with my Omega RH - love this thing.

Only thing I’m still working on is pointin distances (especially for hunting). I’m going to try and limit shots <15 yards.

On my target with tip of collar at bottom of target I’m about 10 inches up.

A regular crawl to make any noticeable difference made the bow twang pretty loud.

So I bumped Nick height a bit and that has helped a bunch. I’m probably 6-7” above bottom now and can crawl a bit to bring it another inch or 2 lower at 15.

Any other tips?

 

[BowhunterXC]

Nock height varies from one bow to the next. Especially, if the bow is being shot off of the shelf vs. a rest.

The phrase "point-on" typically refers to the distance at which the arrow tip is pointing on the target and that's where it hits.

An example: My ILF recuve (17" Satori riser with medium Uukha Yangi limbs at 45#) has a 30 yard "point-on". At 30 yards the point of the arrow is touching the target dot. I have to crawl down to hit dead on at 25, 20 and 15 yards.
The tiller of the limbs is even. The Brace Height is 7 7/8". The nock height is 5/8" above square. This setup is being shot off of a rug rest.

On one of my recurves I have nock sets tied to show yardage differences. Most traditional clubs don't allow yardage markings on the string, but they will allow yardage markings on the tab. I use yardage markings on my tab for competition shoots.
The bottom green tie is 15 yards, the next one up is the red 20 yard mark, the next one up is another green tie at 25 yards and up against the nock is 30 yards.
Hope this helps with your setup.

 

[Longbowwally]

I like my arrow just below the brisket(2-3 inches below is ok) and with a 10 gpp arrow I don't really notice much difference in my gap till I get beyond 25 yards. When I was shooting a heavier arrow I had to noticeably adjust my gap past 20 yards. I shoot better with my arrow below the spot I want to hit but I don't like to have a gap more than about 10 inches. You may find when you first start shooting with a gap you will be paying attention to the gap a lot when you shoot, but after a period of time doing this you will/should focus more on the spot you want to hit and let your subconscious or secondary vision handle the gap without really thinking much about it. At least that is what I've found over many years of shooting and it works really well for me. Hope this helps......

 

[raisins]

Longer arrows and tips/broadheads help. When I was recurve only, I always shot my arrows full length.

 

[BowhunterXC]

You may find when you first start shooting with a gap you will be paying attention to the gap a lot when you shoot, but after a period of time doing this you will/should focus more on the spot you want to hit and let your subconscious or secondary vision handle the gap without really thinking much about it. At least that is what I've found over many years of shooting and it works really well for me. Hope this helps......

The thing that I don't like about gap shooting: It takes more range time and putting more arrows downrange to attain the same degree of accuracy that I get with string walking. Having an exact aiming point will eliminate "the guessing" or gap estimation.
I used the gap method for many years, before switching to string walking and using and exact aiming point without any gap shooting...and it greatly increased my accuracy.

However..... I must say that there are archers that are very good/accurate with gap shooting. So...everyone must do what works for them.

EDIT/ADD:
Ken Beck once said...
"The bad thing about being an instinctive archer is you have to shoot a lot to get good but the good thing about being an instinctive archer is...you have to shoot a lot to get good."

 

[bigcat93]

The thing that I don't like about gap shooting: It takes more range time and putting more arrows downrange to attain the same degree of accuracy that I get with string walking. Having an exact aiming point will eliminate "the guessing" or gap estimation.
I used the gap method for many years, before switching to string walking and using and exact aiming point without any gap shooting...and it greatly increased my accuracy.

However..... I must say that there are archers that are very good/accurate with gap shooting. So...everyone must do what works for them.

EDIT/ADD:
Ken Beck once said...
"The bad thing about being an instinctive archer is you have to shoot a lot to get good but the good thing about being an instinctive archer is...you have to shoot a lot to get good."

Maybe thread title could be improved lol

My plan is to string walk to where arrow is just below or at belly line for a 12-15 yard shot.

When I get past 1/8-1/4” down from nocks it twangs bad so I started raising up nock height little by little to keep where I’m addressing string closest to shelf as possible

 

[Wlog]

Couple questions. How high do you anchor? Arrow length? Draw length?

Is your bow tillered even or did you have them tiller with string walking in mind?

The higher you can comfortably anchor on your face, the less you will have to walk down the string.

If your heart is completely set on walking or fixed crawl that’s fine but inside 15 yards you might surprise yourself how good you can be with just shooting with your index finger against the nock and going more instinctive/split vision/instinctive gap.

 

[GCTerpfan]

When I get past 1/8-1/4” down from nocks it twangs bad so I started raising up nock height little by little to keep where I’m addressing string closest to shelf as possible

I'm not a string walker or a gap shooter so I won't comment on that part but, you should only be adjusting your nock point to tune the arrow/fix arrow flight. It sounds like you are arbitrarily moving the nock point higher to get the arrow closer to your eye and or your hook closer to the center of the string. This may help with your gaps but, is negatively effect arrow flight. You always want to optimize arrow flight but, it is especially critical inside 15 yards as your fletching doesn't have time to correct any imperfections in your tune.

The only factor in determining your nock height should be your tune, get that set and then adjust your gaps with a crawl or changing your anchor point. But, as @Wlog said above, if your planning on shooting inside 15 yards you might be making it more complicated then you need to.

 

[Longbowwally]

The thing that I don't like about gap shooting: It takes more range time and putting more arrows downrange to attain the same degree of accuracy that I get with string walking. Having an exact aiming point will eliminate "the guessing" or gap estimation.
I used the gap method for many years, before switching to string walking and using and exact aiming point without any gap shooting...and it greatly increased my accuracy.

However..... I must say that there are archers that are very good/accurate with gap shooting. So...everyone must do what works for them.

EDIT/ADD:
Ken Beck once said...
"The bad thing about being an instinctive archer is you have to shoot a lot to get good but the good thing about being an instinctive archer is...you have to shoot a lot to get good."

The thing is I've tried all the styles over the years and figured out the 'gapstinctive' works best for me. I actually don't see much need for string walking at most hunting ranges or 3D shoots because most targets are less than 30 yards. But, you should work out your gaps to be nice and tight at 30 yards and less. If you do this shots at 20 yards and less will have an almost negligible difference in gap if you are using arrows with 10 gpp or less.
I started out very aware of the gap but then found once I understood my gaps they became a secondary vision thing and I focus more on a spot. If I don't pick a spot I don't shoot as good - but I'm aware of the gap.
I personally didn't find that I needed an excessive amount of range time to learn gap. What I did when I first started gap shooting is at the beginning of every practice session I would shoot point on at 10 - 30 yards in 5 yard increments to visually see and refresh myself with my gaps. Then I would go shoot my 3D course. I prolly did this for most of a year and then just 'naturally' started focusing on gaps less and less and more on a spot with the gaps in my secondary vision.
I won the last two 3D tournaments I shot and averaged 9.83 & 9.86 - on a 30 target course and shot high score for all classes - and the last tournament we had some string walkers with fancy ILF rigs and I out shot them with my Bear takedown. So evidently it works very well....