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Pre season broad head flight

I actually think paper tuning is pointless myself. Unless your shooting paper at 20-30 yards. I have stopped about 2 years ago. A good broadhead tune is better in my opinion. Now to say that. I set up with a center shot as a starting place. I use the head to sight in 20 and the rest if needed at 60. I’ve not found any loss of energy. At 60 I’m getting 11.5” of penetration on a rhinehart 18-1 and 14 with my broadhead on the 18-1. I’ve not lost any fps. With that said. I shoot low pro four fletch on hunting set up and 3” feathers on 3d. I also set mine up to spin against the grain. I put a 2* right helical on both. So I’m getting half the spin. I don’t have any wonky flight at all. Just me though.
I was asked this question. If I can’t shoot the same weight arrows together no matter the head is my bow really in tune?
paper shows u how straight it comes out of your bow. I don't believe that is a pointless step.They will all fly straight at 60 because of the fetching correcting the flight. They may not be flying strait at 10. To move the rest to get them to group at 60 means most likely thay are not coming out straight. That said I've killed a pile of deer at 20 yards with an unturned bow in my youth. Since I've spent the time to fine tune a setup and can tell the difference between a yard on my sight tape at 50. I could have never done that with sporadic arrow flight in my youth even though i was good enough to kill deer at 20. Paper is just the starting point but for me it tells me how the arrow is coming off and can then nock tune to make sure they are coming off the same. I've gotten older ,weaker and with worse eye sight but shoot better then I ever did once I took the time to really tune a setup. If they come out of the bow not all exactly the same u can't expect impact to be exactly the same.
 
It’s different for everyone. I shoot ASA, local 3d, indoor and my son is on the school shooting team. Lots of bow tuning all year long. The more I work on bows and tune for others. That paper just seems unneeded for the final result. Of course. All that said. Starting with a properly set up bow. Tuning should be minimal.
 
I’ve been shooting mine the last few weeks.

Going to give the Thorn Rift broadhead a try this year (likely for my “meat hunts”).
They’re extremely accurate with the hidden blade technology, but we will see how well they penetrate with that weird tip they’ve got.

I’ll be carrying some Grim Reaper Whitetail Specials as I normally do and my “old faithfuls”, the GrizzTrick.
Not saying there aren’t better fixed heads out there, but they have done me well and haven’t given me a reason to change to a different fixed head.


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I certainly hope everyone knows to NOT shoot groups with broadheads!

There are individual target dots on a broadhead target for a reason. Shooting each dot and hitting the center of the dot, is the same as shooting a group. All arrows are hitting the same Point Of Impact, just like they would if you were shooting for a group. :cool:

I say this because I helped a guy that was shooting groups with broadheads, when one of the blades scored the shaft of one of the other arrows. He didn't notice it, until he shot that arrow and it splintered into his hand. I held his hand under running cold water, tried to get him to calm down a little and not pass out, until the EMS arrived to take him to the hospital. FORTUNATELY, he didn't lose any function in his hand. o_O

This is a photo (not his hand) of how it looked at the time. :(
View attachment 70631

Ouch! Glad he’s ok.
 
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