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Prusik tender vs Ropeman 1: For noobs from a noob

3lilpigs

Member
Joined
May 24, 2021
Messages
43
A few months ago when I started climbing, I was frustrated at how difficult it could be to slide the prusik knots on my linesman's belt and tether. I heard about using a Ropeman 1 in place of the prusik, because it was so much easier to adjust. I also heard the term "prusik tender" mentioned here and there, but didn't quite understand what they were for. So I dropped the $40-45 to get a Ropeman 1, and I loved it. It was pricey, but I could now adjust my linesman and tether with just one hand most of the time, and definitely more easily than before. But then I actually learned what a prusik tender was, and that it's just an extra little piece of equipment that does almost exactly the same thing but for $5 or less. I'd like to mention the pros and cons of both tools, and let you decide which (if either) you'd rather use. I'll also include instructions for the nearly free tender that I made. And any experts who see me omitting something or talking out of my ass, please feel free to chime in.

Ropeman 1- Essentially a small aluminum clip that attaches to your tether or linesman with a carabiner. A toothed cam allows the rope to easily tighten by pulling the tag end, but not play out. Lifting the cam allows you to put slack back in the rope. Pros: smaller than a prusik knot, arguably easier to manipulate than a prusik with tender, looks way cooler Cons: The first thing I'd better mention is a safety concern. As it wasn't designed for this climbing application, there's a potential that a fall could cause the mechanical teeth to damage and tear your rope, especially "degloving" the outer kernmantle (sheath) of your rope. Depending on your rope type and climbing style, this could have more or less potential to be dangerous. I decided that, for my rope type and climbing techniques, I wasn't worried about it. The Ropeman is also metal and can clank noisily against gear or trees. It's small, but it could be shiny enough to catch your prey's eye. Also, it costs $40-45 before shipping. That's not bad for a quality piece of climbing gear, but it feels like a lot when you realize that it's just for the convenience of using one hand rather than two.

Prusik tender-a device that might be as simple as a single amsteel loop, or as "complicated" as a plastic loop held in place by a light string or rope. It attaches to your carabiner at one end and slides on the rope behind the prusik knot. When I tighten a prusik without tender, my right hand pulls the slack end and my left pushes the prusik up the rope. The tender takes the place of my left hand. Pros: cheap and easy, no safety concerns beyond those of normal climbing. Cons: slightly more bulky than the Ropeman 1, takes just a liiiiittle more strength to pull tight.

On this side of things, I wish I'd learned about both tools before buying my Ropeman 1, and maybe even had a chance to try them both. I'm definitely going to continue to use my Ropeman. I love it. But the DIY tender I made from paracord took less than 5 minutes to make, and would have cost me maybe $1-2... if I didn't get my paracord for free. In conclusion, I think The Ropeman 1 is a fine luxury item (when used correctly) for people who have the cash to blow on it. I don't have cash to blow, so maybe I ought to start selling prusik tenders! Nah... in just a second I'll post directions for how you can make 'em out of paracord.tender.pngtender&ropeman.png
 
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Wow. Crappy photos. Anyway, the tender is super easy to make. Just two pieces of paracord, one about 2' long and another about 3' long. The shorter piece will serve as the core, the longer piece will make the flat weave. Midway down the shorter piece, tie on a standard paracord flat weave. I used 17 knots, which turned out to be a woven section about 3.25" long. Do the knots tight, and cut and melt the ends. This will serve as the loop that goes around your linesman or tether rope. If your tether has cut, whipped, or shrink-wrapped ends, you can just tie your loop now. Bring the two ends of the woven part together to form a loop, and overhand knot the two pieces of paracord that run through the core. Pull the knot tight against the woven loop. Tie another overhand knot toward the tag ends of the paracord, this forms a large loop that your carabiner will clip into. The larger loop should be about the same length as your prusik's loop, or just a little shorter. If necessary, cut and melt excess off the ends. Slide the woven loop over your rope until it's next to the prusik, and clip your 'biner into the larger loop. If your rope is like mine and has sewn loop ends, you'll have to tie it directly onto the tether/linesman. Wrap the woven paracord around the rope next to the prusik, on the side of the loose/tag end. Tie the single strands of paracord together with an overhand knot, tightening the knot as much as possible up against the woven part. Tie the ends together with another overhand knot. Again, the single-strand loop should be the same length or slightly shorter than your prusik's loop.

To use it, just pull on the loose end of the tether or linesman, and lift up. The woven loop of the tender will press against the prusik wraps and slide it up tighter!paratender.png
 
I run the tag end of my lineman’s rope back through the carabiner and the carabiner becomes the prusik tender.
 
I have a Ropeman a Kong Duck and a CT Roll-N-Lock.
I MUCH prefer a Swabisch hitch and a tender!

View attachment 50167
Not sure where you draw the line for minimum break strength, but when used as you show, the loop is only 2800 lbs. because it isn’t being used in a basket configuration, only end to end.
 
A Basket configuration wouldn’t be how a continuous loop is normally run in saddle hunting?
End to End would be how an eye to eye could be hooked up, right?

Anyway, back to your question.
I sure think it’d hold me. (It has been for two months)

I haven’t fallen into it yet but...

Lemme know what you think. I'm here to learn and I very much value YOUR opinion.
 
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To be honest - I didn’t actually GO to rigging school but I know a lot of the techniques and terminology.
But I know how cut I-beams over 100’ in the air send them safely to the ground and haven’t broke anything yet... lol
 
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To be honest - I didn’t actually go to rigging school but I know a lot of the techniques and terminology but I can cut I-beams over 100’ in the air sent them safely to the ground and haven’t broke anything yet... lol
Speaking of breaking things, how's the fingers?
 
A Basket configuration wouldn’t be how a continuous loop is normally run in saddle hunting?
End to End would be how an eye to eye could be hooked up, right?
This is correct, so up to individual to determine if this is strong enough. The Autobloc and French Prusik hitches use both ends but the loop needs to longer. Rock climbers seem to be comfortable with that break strength range, but I had to follow the ANSI regs for many years.
 
Ouch how’d that happen

You haven't been surfing the forum lately?
Check this out... (post # 144)


 
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You haven't been surfing the forum lately?
Check this out... (post # 144)



ouch.Heal quickly man! Didn’t see that post
 
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