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Question on quiver

wdarby

wdarby

Well-Known Member
SH Member
Joined
Jan 5, 2020
Messages
234
Location
New Hampshire
Getting into Trad this year with a new to me longbow. Really enjoy it, the lack of fiddle factor of my compound is a nice change, but still a lot of work to go.
But I'm trying to figure out a quiver for saddle hunting. I typically take the quiver off my compound when I set up so my bow sits close to the tree. But I've noticed most people use strap-on or slide-on quivers which don't look convenient to remove in the tree.
So I'm wondering what saddle hunters use for a quiver and how you hang your bow from the tree.
Thanks

I wish I was a headlight on a north-bound train
 
I just carry a simple cheap hip quiver that I don't think I've ever attached to my hip. I don't like anything attached to my bow that isn't absolutely necessary.
 
You can also check out side quivers. I'm surprised the High Noon Hunter-type quiver didn't catch on, they looked really versatile.
 
I've gone back and forth on this with my Northern Mist ASL. Currently it sports a Great Northen side quiver. It's not too bad and I have gotten used to shooting the bow with it on. With my compound I always take the quiver off when I set up at hunting height. Compounds are heavy, relative to a trad bow so I think that is the main reason I remove the quiver on the compound. When it first started, I carried an arrow tube with a shoulder strap and hung that in the tree, then later I used a Hill style back quiver and hung that in the tree. The Hill back quiver worked better.

I'm not 100% satisfied with a side mount quiver but it seems to work OK for now. I also do more ground hunting with the longbow than from elevation, if that helps.
 
@wdarby , if you make it down to the Seacoast- I’ll invite you to a 3D range and we can try to coordinate with @Razorbak66, he shoots a ilf longbow and has tried about every quiver . I am due to get a quiver for my recurve with a longbow style riser and you can throw it on your bow.
I’m still fine tuning a non screw in stickbow hanger.
 
I keep my quiver on my bow all the time.
If it's taken off in the tree, it becomes a little fiddle factor plus, if I need a 2nd arrow, I would have to reach for it. Too much movement in the presence of game. And if I've rotated to the side of the tree I might not even be able to reach for an arrow without needing to move my position...and then possibly need to move back to where I was. Far too much movement.
Bows shoot differently with/without a quiver attached. Which way should I practice? Leave it on all of the time and the bow will feel and shoot the same way for those impromptu shots.
Finally, sometimes it's hard enough to slip thru heavy cover while carrying the bow with quiver attached and other assorted gear hanging from my body. A hip, or back quiver is just one more thing to manipulate thru cover.
Strap-on, slide-on, bolt-on...keep the quiver on all of the time.
 
I have EFA 4 arrow quivers on all my bows and they stay on all of the time. I have a brush button on both ends of my string and hang the bow from the button. The button just keeps the hook from getting pinched between the limb and string.

Just curious, what do you feel that you gain by having your bow 2" closer to the tree?
 
Have been using a thunderhorn strap on so it stays on the bow all the time. Tried 3 different versions off bow quivers and they just didnt work for me.
 
All my bows have quick detach quivers. The one on the Buffalo is Great Nothern with quick attach knobs under the limb bolts. The Black Widow has a GN that I modified for quick removal with out removing the knobs.
 

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TreeCreep said:
@wdarby , if you make it down to the Seacoast- I’ll invite you to a 3D range and we can try to coordinate with @Razorbak66, he shoots a ilf longbow and has tried about every quiver . I am due to get a quiver for my recurve with a longbow style riser and you can throw it on your bow.
I’m still fine tuning a non screw in stickbow hanger.
Click to expand...
I'll definitely take you up on that, thanks. I'll DM you after turkey season.

I wish I was a headlight on a north-bound train
 
Thanks for the great advice everyone. I appreciate the replies.


GCTerpfan said:
Just curious, what do you feel that you gain by having your bow 2" closer to the tree?
Click to expand...

It's more to avoid having the lower limb of my compound canting out from the tree.


I wish I was a headlight on a north-bound train
 
Last year I tried a Great Northern bow quiver for a bit, didn’t like having the arrows in the bow in the tree. Rest of the season I used a Great Northern hip quiver with a fleece fletching cover to keep the fletching dry. (I have now figured out fletching waterproofing powder exists.) That worked ok, but I didn’t like carrying the quiver separate in brush and is another thing to hang up.

I’m going to one-stick this year, and since I won’t need to the frame on the Eberlestock x2 to handle four sticks and platform I bought a Catquiver VII. I’ve worn it a couple times out hunting for turkey and I like it. Lightweight with almost a frame with the two aluminum stays, built in fletching cover, and it covers 3” broad heads (mostly). Only thing I realized is I can’t use a roll pouch for the rappel rope as it puts the loops of it uncomfortably close to the broadheads when wearing saddle and pack. So I bought a CGM dropout pouch instead to carry the rope vertical.

I also looked at buying a Safari Tuff or Palmer quiver and lashing them to the side of a pack, but I was concerned about getting those packed with snow which seems less of an issue with the Catquiver.
 
TheBlindCat said:
Last year I tried a Great Northern bow quiver for a bit, didn’t like having the arrows in the bow in the tree. Rest of the season I used a Great Northern hip quiver with a fleece fletching cover to keep the fletching dry. (I have now figured out fletching waterproofing powder exists.) That worked ok, but I didn’t like carrying the quiver separate in brush and is another thing to hang up.

I’m going to one-stick this year, and since I won’t need to the frame on the Eberlestock x2 to handle four sticks and platform I bought a Catquiver VII. I’ve worn it a couple times out hunting for turkey and I like it. Lightweight with almost a frame with the two aluminum stays, built in fletching cover, and it covers 3” broad heads (mostly). Only thing I realized is I can’t use a roll pouch for the rappel rope as it puts the loops of it uncomfortably close to the broadheads when wearing saddle and pack. So I bought a CGM dropout pouch instead to carry the rope vertical.

I also looked at buying a Safari Tuff or Palmer quiver and lashing them to the side of a pack, but I was concerned about getting those packed with snow which seems less of an issue with the Catquiver.
Click to expand...


They make covers specifically to keep snow out. The owner of Safari Tuff just got back from a polar bear hunt where his bow and arrows lived in their ST cases outside. IMO the cat quivers can be dangerous.
 
Randy Cooling. Couldn't remember his name. Check his Insta story. Has his ST quiver decked out with the covers sitting in the blowing snow.
 
I used a great northern strap on last year, I would take it off and hang it separately each hunt. Found out during after season shooting that I'm a lot more accurate and consistent with the quiver on. So this year I'll be hunting with it on
 
kbetts said:
They make covers specifically to keep snow out. The owner of Safari Tuff just got back from a polar bear hunt where his bow and arrows lived in their ST cases outside. IMO the cat quivers can be dangerous.
Click to expand...
Yeah, I saw the cover, but figured it was another thing to fiddle with and drop out of the tree, also would be in the way if a quick shot on a grouse presented itself. I see why some don’t like the Catquiver, chance of cutting your finger on a broadhead. I’m going to try it out how I like, then it’s a ST quiver strapped to something with a light internal frame.
 
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