Rappel Process

[neonomad]

I’m trying to simplify everything I can, and wondering if anybody has a simple (non mechanical device) rappel process when the hunt is over? My process has always been a little clunky because I first drop my friction down as safety and then re-attach to a figure 8. But to do this I have to disconnect and while I’m connected with a lineman’s…. there’s got to be a better way. Maybe mechanical device is the only way to simplify this I dunno.

 

[Publiclandowner]

I climb and hang on a Longhorn Agile Hitch, it takes no effort to break under load and it self tends when I want to take out slack. When I’m ready to head down, I pull out another carabiner and make a quick Munter hitch, clip into my bridge and descend. Left hand is breaking the Longhorn and my right hand is the brake hand for the munter. No devices to clang and bang. I’ll share a couple vids.

 

[Seekbigger]

I use either the longhorn agile or the sticth hitch from Brocky, then I use a small figure 8 that I attach to my secondary bridge below my hitch, at no time am I switching to a lineman’s rope. I just place the figure 8 below, loosen the hitch, loading the figure 8 and down we go. I prefer the figure 8 because no matter how many times I’ve used the Munter I can not keep it from twisting my rope terribly.

 

[NMSbowhunter]

I climb and hang on a Longhorn Agile Hitch, it takes no effort to break under load and it self tends when I want to take out slack. When I’m ready to head down, I pull out another carabiner and make a quick Munter hitch, clip into my bridge and descend. Left hand is breaking the Longhorn and my right hand is the brake hand for the munter. No devices to clang and bang. I’ll share a couple vids.

This exactly. I used it some last fall and it works great. I even use it some with the Maverick Hitch on the top tether for 2TC up the tree, and then I can unlock it, rappel out, then pull the whole thing right down.

 

[MattS304]

Munter hitch on a secondary carabiner is the simplest way I’ve seen. I run a fixed length short secondary bridge (closed loop of 7mm accessory cord) mainly just for rappelling and positioning which makes it easier to keep the munter below my primary friction hitch which serves as my backup.

 

[Cbigbear]

Honestly, the simplest method is to just climb down. Add a cam buckle to your setup & climbing up & down is the same process.

 

[Horn]

I’m trying to simplify everything I can, and wondering if anybody has a simple (non mechanical device) rappel process when the hunt is over? My process has always been a little clunky because I first drop my friction down as safety and then re-attach to a figure 8. But to do this I have to disconnect and while I’m connected with a lineman’s…. there’s got to be a better way. Maybe mechanical device is the only way to simplify this I dunno.

Are you hunting on your rappel line? And I'll assume you use normal rope not the spaghetti I use . I'll come come back and edit this with an idea or two, hopefully with pictures.

 

[Skunkworkx]

I climb and hang on a Longhorn Agile Hitch, it takes no effort to break under load and it self tends when I want to take out slack. When I’m ready to head down, I pull out another carabiner and make a quick Munter hitch, clip into my bridge and descend. Left hand is breaking the Longhorn and my right hand is the brake hand for the munter. No devices to clang and bang. I’ll share a couple vids.

Same here...2 bridges.... ones hunting on a LH, and ones repelling on a Munter

 

[neonomad]

Thanks all! think what’s holding me back is needing to drop my friction down, to get a figure 8 above…. so I’m now going to add a second bridge and pull my bridge short as backup friction with longer bridge to an 8 above, or try the Longhorn and run it above with 8 below. Either of these would be an improvement. @Horn I’m running TRC on 8mm Rescutech so still normal human’s rope, going to see if the longhorn behaves. I’ve thought about going to 9/9.5mm but I do like this small cord. Not rigging up a linemans to descend sounds good at the end of a long day.

 

[Publiclandowner]

Now I’m curious if I’m missing something..you all use a second bridge? If I make a Munter right below my longhorn, I can just clip the biner into the same bridge. Then when I break the longhorn it loads the munter and I’m headed down. Is the second bridge just to keep space between the two?

Sorry to hijack but I feel it’s relevant to the convo.

 

[cheecho67]

I use either the longhorn agile or the sticth hitch from Brocky, then I use a small figure 8 that I attach to my secondary bridge below my hitch, at no time am I switching to a lineman’s rope. I just place the figure 8 below, loosen the hitch, loading the figure 8 and down we go. I prefer the figure 8 because no matter how many times I’ve used the Munter I can not keep it from twisting my rope terribly.

doesn't the figure 8 put a twist in the rope?

 

[Skunkworkx]

Now I’m curious if I’m missing something..you all use a second bridge? If I make a Munter right below my longhorn, I can just clip the biner into the same bridge. Then when I break the longhorn it loads the munter and I’m headed down. Is the second bridge just to keep space between the two?

Sorry to hijack but I feel it’s relevant to the convo.

Not an old hand at this, but just a safety thing, and yes you can do both off one if you choose to.

 

[Seekbigger]

Now I’m curious if I’m missing something..you all use a second bridge? If I make a Munter right below my longhorn, I can just clip the biner into the same bridge. Then when I break the longhorn it loads the munter and I’m headed down. Is the second bridge just to keep space between the two?

Sorry to hijack but I feel it’s relevant to the convo.

I always run a second bridge, but you can do it off the same one if you like! Running the second bridge keeps good space between the two and allows me to take all the friction off my hitch on the rappel down.

doesn't the figure 8 put a twist in the rope?

The way I run mine doesn’t seem to twist my rope much at all. When I use the Munter, maybe I’m doing it wrong, but it always puts a lot of twist to the point I have trouble after my hunt coiling my rope back up. When I get down from my sit, especially in the evening I want to get out as quick and quietly as possible as not to spook any deer that are close by.

 

[Horn]

Munter definitely twists the rope. A super munter twists it back so it's not an issue afterwards but it's a lot more friction.

@neonomad , you're switching to a LB in order to unweight your rappel line so you can put the figure 8 on the rope?

 

[NMSbowhunter]

Now I’m curious if I’m missing something..you all use a second bridge? If I make a Munter right below my longhorn, I can just clip the biner into the same bridge. Then when I break the longhorn it loads the munter and I’m headed down. Is the second bridge just to keep space between the two?

Sorry to hijack but I feel it’s relevant to the convo.

I clip the Petzl William carabiner into the Amsteel belt I use on my saddle. It is technically not a second bridge but can function under these conditions as one. I would not hang off it solo, but it is plenty strong for me to use in this instance. I am connected above it to the main line with the Longhorn with my main tether.

I started out connecting the rappel carabiner through one of the steel D rings on the saddle for rappel, and while it works OK, it does make the saddle want to turn on my waist as weight is applied. I had the Amsteel belt anyway, so I used it. It's only like 3/16 diameter, but it has something like 1200 pounds breaking strength, and I weigh 150 pounds.

 

[Yimmyb60]

I can't recall where but @Brocky has posted multiple times that you can tie the hitch on to a figure 8, then connect your carabiner to the 8. When its time to rappel, just run your tag through the 8 once or twice and squeeze the hitch to rappel. No need for a second bridge.

Update: post #417

Friction Hitches

I’m tying the stopper a little different, seems to create less friction while hand tending. Also works nice with the Cornell’s older brother, the Distel. That’s slick….

saddlehunter.com

 

[Horn]

^ that is one of the pictures that came to mind. Thanks for digging it up @Yimmyb60 .



Here is a similar idea, also with the sticht. You could do the same thing with a Kong Gi-Gi on normal size line. Also can put the biner in the bottom hole and run the rope through like sport mode, shown in #417 of the other thread. A big drawback to the way it's shown, or with a separate break bar and the biner in the bottom hole, is you cannot ascend with this set up. At least not easily.

You may try girth hitching a sling to a figure 8 as an extension too. That should let you install the rope and then connect the sling to your bridge. I suspect needing to unwieght the line to put the device above the 3rd hand is probably the root of the problem though, which this wouldn't solve.

 

[Seekbigger]

I can't recall where but @Brocky has posted multiple times that you can tie the hitch on to a figure 8, then connect your carabiner to the 8. When its time to rappel, just run your tag through the 8 once or twice and squeeze the hitch to rappel. No need for a second bridge.

Update: post #417

Friction Hitches

I’m tying the stopper a little different, seems to create less friction while hand tending. Also works nice with the Cornell’s older brother, the Distel. That’s slick….

saddlehunter.com

This is a very good way to use a figure 8, especially if you are inexperienced!! No way to drop the figure 8 and easy to rappel!

 

[neonomad]

Munter definitely twists the rope. A super munter twists it back so it's not an issue afterwards but it's a lot more friction.

@neonomad , you're switching to a LB in order to unweight your rappel line so you can put the figure 8 on the rope?

Yeah, this is with a Dryad and JX3 so it’s a little tricky to explain but it’s just easier to put a linemans on rather than balance on my small Pursuit platform to prep…. but this year I’m going to pick up a typical bridged saddle as well, and I intend to use a second bridge regardless for the safety benefits.

 

[Brocky]

^ that is one of the pictures that came to mind. Thanks for digging it up @Yimmyb60 .

View attachment 119552

Here is a similar idea, also with the sticht. You could do the same thing with a Kong Gi-Gi on normal size line. Also can put the biner in the bottom hole and run the rope through like sport mode, shown in #417 of the other thread. A big drawback to the way it's shown, or with a separate break bar and the biner in the bottom hole, is you cannot ascend with this set up. At least not easily.

You may try girth hitching a sling to a figure 8 as an extension too. That should let you install the rope and then connect the sling to your bridge. I suspect needing to unwieght the line to put the device above the 3rd hand is probably the root of the problem though, which this wouldn't solve.

You remove the rope from the slots to ascend, also when using a fig. 8. Tubular device is another option, a Technora pin is used instead of a carabiner to keep it quiet.