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Recommend RCH + Sit Drag for newbs?

Marmuzz

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 22, 2021
Messages
1,145
Location
Lancaster, Pennsylvania
TL;DR: Considering pros/cons of advising a DIY Sit Drag + RCH + Helium one stick and rappel setup as a budget entry option for saddle rookies.

All right, you guys who have been down this road before, chime in. I love designing systems, doing things unconventionally, and saving money. I don’t mean to reinvent the wheel but this has been fun to think about.

My current setup: Overwatch Transformer, EWO one stick with angled OOAL Monarch, two ROS on a ratchet
Climbing method: one sticking + rappel
Satisfaction: Love it, super comfortable, no reason to change, not trying to convince anyone they should

However, ever since I began researching saddle hunting a year ago I’ve been intrigued by one of the original ideas of using a rock climbing harness and Sit Drag. Can’t tell you how many times I’ve watched DIY Sportsman’s old Sit Drag YouTube video. When I look at all the time and money I dumped into researching various gear and methods last year, I just can’t help but wonder if as a newb I would’ve been better off trying out this OG idea to see if I liked the method. As I encounter more hunters who are curious about saddle hunting, I’m considering advising this method as a cost effective way to try it out. There are admittedly some drawbacks. Mind you, I’ve never tried this myself, and I wouldn’t hesitate to suggest my aforementioned present setup. However, I can appreciate not everyone wants to invest that much if they aren’t persuaded yet.

Potential setup: RCH + Sit Drag, a 20” Hawk Helium stick with 1-step webbing aider, HTP 10mm or similar climbing rope for both rappel/tether and lineman’s, all friction hitches, using a carabiner munter or figure 8 to rappel
Climbing method: one sticking + rappel

Possible pros:
  1. Lighter weight (less fabric, straps, and buckles, fewer sticks)
  2. Less cost—I figure this entire setup to get in and out of a tree could be assembled for $250-300—roughly the cost of a new or good condition used manufactured saddle alone
  3. Possibly avoid getting drawn into the fad canyon of latest and greatest marketing hype, endless comparing of products and features, and spending lots of money. This is a tried and true method.
  4. Resale value. If you don’t like it, you’re probably stuck with the RCH and Sit Drag. But somebody could buy your ropes and stick. Net loss $100 for the experience.
Possible cons:
  1. For one-stickers like myself, I imagine RCH straps digging into your leg when climbing would be a literal pain in the butt (and other nether regions).
  2. Two “bridge” connection points. The RCH belay loop for primary safety, coupled with the Sit Drag bridge biner for support. Requires more adjustment, more possible metal contact noise.
  3. No dump pouches. Could be remedied with a Speedy Stitcher to create molle loops on the Sit Drag, but it’s another step. Climbing without access to ropes on your hips would be a dealbreaker for me I think.
  4. No adjustments except for your Sit Drag bridge height.
  5. Single panel design. (I’d suggest most newbs have enough fiddle factor starting out that the benefit of a two panel saddle would be lost on them, but having that feature now myself, I can’t put the genie back in the bottle.)
  6. Steep learning curve. Everything is easy to the initiated—but learning to tie all your own knots, different friction hitches, how to one stick, how to rappel, etc. could certainly be more intimidating to someone rather than opening a box with a shiny gadget “intended” for that purpose (I know, somewhere a safety engineer specializing in rock climbing belay devices suddenly choked and spit out his coffee for an unknown reason).
  7. …But on the other hand, you won’t spend 2 months straight on YouTube trying to figure out everything this increasingly complicated hunting method has to offer.
  8. No platform. I doubt standing on Helium feet for hours is comfy. Could be supplemented by a conveniently located tree branch, or for a little more cost, 2-3 ROS.
What say you, experienced saddle hunters? An effective starter kit, or am I trying to retrofit an antiquated method to someone who already has enough to learn?
 
I've never used the RCH and sit drag combination either, but I do have those components should something go wrong with my saddle and I need a backup.

However, my primary concerns would be the following.

Knowledge of how to correctly tie all the knots and appropriate rope to use. It's probably second nature to most seasoned saddle hunters by now, but a new person could easily get the wrong rope, wrong diameters for friction hitch, etc.

I think learning saddle hunting and one sticking at the same time may be overload. I'd probably just get a set of hawk heliums and save one sticking for later for a completely new person.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
 
There is a considerable safety concern with new saddle hunters selecting the correct rope and friction hitches. So are you suggesting in place of DIY knots it’s advisable for a rookie to select, say, a factory spliced eye tether and LB paired with a mechanical device? I can see the moderate simplicity of this, but I feel user error on mismatching rope diameter with proper device spec could still happen easily enough. It comes down to the user’s attention and research.

Yeah, one sticking is definitely a challenge you have to be committed to learning, and you may not be motivated to go that way because a) you’ve never been marveled by swinging in a tree at height and/or b) it’s sweat, blood, and tears to one stick to get to that height. Even so, I think you could replicate the feeling well enough on a one stick at ground level. I was convinced of one sticking having never tried it after only 3-4 climbs with a pack of sticks just because of the weight savings hiking in, and have never looked back. But in can see it wouldn’t be for everyone.
 
I am all about this style. You don’t need to spend all the money and have the bizwang things to do this, and if you look back just a few years this forum was alive with innovation and doing stuff just like this. In fact, I am still using my RCH and fleece after 5 or so seasons and have no plans to move away from it.

Possible pros:
  1. Lighter weight (less fabric, straps, and buckles, fewer sticks) IDK if you are going to be saving weight at this point on a saddle. One stick for sure over many sticks.

  2. Less cost—I figure this entire setup to get in and out of a tree could be assembled for $250-300—roughly the cost of a new or good condition used manufactured saddle alone I would say that cost estimate is a little high. RCH for 50, fleece or sit drag for another 50 max, you probably already have a lot of Tempe ropes and then if Tupi buy used you can get an old muddy or something for like 50 bucks.
  3. Possibly avoid getting drawn into the fad canyon of latest and greatest marketing hype, endless comparing of products and features, and spending lots of money. This is a tried and true method. Fact
  4. Resale value. If you don’t like it, you’re probably stuck with the RCH and Sit Drag. But somebody could buy your ropes and stick. Net loss $100 for the experience. Fact. Maybe you join a rock gym?
Possible cons:
  1. For one-stickers like myself, I imagine RCH straps digging into your leg when climbing would be a literal pain in the butt (and other nether regions). It’s not bad. A bit pinchy but it’s only for a few seconds. You don’t have that at all once you put weight in the sit drag or fleece.
  2. Two “bridge” connection points. The RCH belay loop for primary safety, coupled with the Sit Drag bridge biner for support. Requires more adjustment, more possible metal contact noise. The RCH loop hooked into a Prussia tied to your main line works well, you just take off the pressure as you add weight to your main sitting item. I started with a 7/64 Amstel bridge but moved to accessory cord because it was too slippery and i couldn’t stop the lean real well. Used the same 6mm accessory cord on my RCH
  3. No dump pouches. Could be remedied with a Speedy Stitcher to create molle loops on the Sit Drag, but it’s another step. Climbing without access to ropes on your hips would be a dealbreaker for me I think. Another option, mollee pouches on the side of a pack that are open, you can just reach back during the climb if needed and easy access once you get it in the tree.
  4. No adjustments except for your Sit Drag bridge height. You can make it as simple as you want, I have a set bridge using prussic loops and a little steel loop tied with 550 cord as a tender for my prussic.
  5. Single panel design. (I’d suggest most newbs have enough fiddle factor starting out that the benefit of a two panel saddle would be lost on them, but having that feature now myself, I can’t put the genie back in the bottle.) wink wink fleece blanket is extraordinarily comfortable
  6. Steep learning curve. Everything is easy to the initiated—but learning to tie all your own knots, different friction hitches, how to one stick, how to rappel, etc. could certainly be more intimidating to someone rather than opening a box with a shiny gadget “intended” for that purpose (I know, somewhere a safety engineer specializing in rock climbing belay devices suddenly choked and spit out his coffee for an unknown reason). It’s not too bad to learn. If you Google “how to tie X knot” there are animations that show step by step. Keep it simple, figure 8 follow through on the end of your rope, hook with a device such as a delta link if you want to, and a basic prussic with a DIY tender. Never have to worry about tying them in the tree and they stay on the line all season. From there you can expand as you want.
  7. …But on the other hand, you won’t spend 2 months straight on YouTube trying to figure out everything this increasingly complicated hunting method has to offer. You will figure it out as you use it in real time. Practice enough to get safe and feel comfortable but just buying a saddle doesn’t eliminate that. Plus, look how much everyone is tinkering with their stuff, whether it be DIY or store bought. Don’t stare at YouTube, just have fun with it.
  8. No platform. I doubt standing on Helium feet for hours is comfy. Could be supplemented by a conveniently located tree branch, or for a little more cost, 2-3 ROS. This is the way. 2 steps on either side of the top of the stick. I just use the top of my muddy stick with the ROS. It’s fun and comfortable.
What say you, experienced saddle hunters? An effective starter kit, or am I trying to retrofit an antiquated method to someone who already has enough to learn?

I say go for the DIY! It’s how this whole thing started and honestly is a fun process to go through. It doesn’t need to be complicated and learning to tie 53 different knots and spending ungodly amounts of money. As long as you keep the RCH tied in you aren’t going to die. Rock climbers literally fall on those things every single day without issue. I think at the end of the day I am maybe 200 bucks into it over the years and I sit all day hunts comfortably with snacks and water. The hardest part of all of this is not peeing on your boots or your sticks when it’s time to go.
 
"3. Possibly avoid getting drawn into the fad canyon of latest and greatest marketing hype, endless comparing of products and features, and spending lots of money. This is a tried and true method."

:tearsofjoy:

This setup is a guaranteed tractor beam to a next setup.
 
Two full seasons in and no desire to change out of the sit drag/rch.

My rch had gear loops attached. Worked great to hold dump pouches

I tied my own knots but watched the same videos many times.

I don't one sick though so I can't comment on the sit drag with that climbing system
 
There is a considerable safety concern with new saddle hunters selecting the correct rope and friction hitches. So are you suggesting in place of DIY knots it’s advisable for a rookie to select, say, a factory spliced eye tether and LB paired with a mechanical device? I can see the moderate simplicity of this, but I feel user error on mismatching rope diameter with proper device spec could still happen easily enough. It comes down to the user’s attention and research.

Yeah, one sticking is definitely a challenge you have to be committed to learning, and you may not be motivated to go that way because a) you’ve never been marveled by swinging in a tree at height and/or b) it’s sweat, blood, and tears to one stick to get to that height. Even so, I think you could replicate the feeling well enough on a one stick at ground level. I was convinced of one sticking having never tried it after only 3-4 climbs with a pack of sticks just because of the weight savings hiking in, and have never looked back. But in can see it wouldn’t be for everyone.
This^^ cept I soon as I got comfortable hanging from a saddle, I couldn’t learn to one stick fast enough. Hanging on a rope in a tree certainly is not something you just go and do. There are some educational requirements fo sho!!
My attitude after buying a saddle was just to get up the tree, safely. Easiest choice were the 3 helium sticks for $99. But almost immediately got a short helium w/small platform to one stick. ANY STICK can be used to one stick and my favorite is one of my long helium sticks with single step aider. Of course I had to mod attachments and finally installed cam cleats. Still playing with the ROS, but love using a platform. Hopefully on Tuesday I’ll try a few ROS steps on my platform strap. Of course I also modified straps for platform and the ROS, finally settling on the OCB.
 
"3. Possibly avoid getting drawn into the fad canyon of latest and greatest marketing hype, endless comparing of products and features, and spending lots of money. This is a tried and true method."

:tearsofjoy:

This setup is a guaranteed tractor beam to a next setup.
And/or a reverse engineering fad… I’m really tempted to set aside all my dialed-in deluxe gear and try assembling a RCH, Sit Drag, one stick minimalist setup just to prove how easy and cheap it is I’m sure my wife would be thrilled to hear I want to spend more time and money on saddlehunting…
 
And/or a reverse engineering fad… I’m really tempted to set aside all my dialed-in deluxe gear and try assembling a RCH, Sit Drag, one stick minimalist setup just to prove how easy and cheap it is I’m sure my wife would be thrilled to hear I want to spend more time and money on saddlehunting…

Lol, spending more to prove you could have spent less. I like your style.

I think the fleece is abetter route than the sitdrag.

Even better and perhaps even cheaper would be to find an adaquate sewing machine on the used market and to really learn sewing and then make a saddle, maybe a hammock (like the Drey), and your own aider. When that's done with, build a great pack.
 
I have only been saddle hunting for this past season and honestly, for me, One-Sticking was really easy. It didn't take but a few try's to understand that an aider that was matched to my needed step distance and how far up to place the tether to make it easier to grab and move my stick were the main mechanics that I needed to work out. Sitting back hanging relaxed in the saddle was easy...... However, setting up the saddle for it to be comfortable while climbing and when at hunting height was another story. I can say that the hip pinch is real. I'm using a Aero Hunter Flex. It took many practice sits and climbs to realize that changing the placement of your tether height and bridge adjustment play a big factor in staying comfortable. I use Prusiks for every application on my set up and it took forever to find the right combinations of hitches. For example, on my tether I use a standard Prusik Hitch and for my linemans belt and bridge I use a Schwabisch Hitch with DIY Prusik Tender on both. So taking this all in mind. I would climb a few hours every weekend for about a month . This was all it took to be comfortable climbing so I started doing a couple hour sits on the weekends as well to see how it felt after a while in the saddle. This is where all the work took place for me. Learning how to move around the platform and make quick adjustments while in the saddle to stay comfortable. I learned quickly that the standard Prusik didnt work very well because it was hard to adjust once your weight has tightened it up to set it. Thats why I changed to the Schwabisch Hitch. When I first saw Saddle Hunting it was DIYSportman's youtube page. Then I found this site. Someone suggested that I try the Fleece saddle, which I did and Loved it. The only reason I tried an actual saddle was for the safety factor. Lucky for me I met someone that willing to help get into a saddle to try out. I have suggested to a few friends to try the fleece saddle as a cheaper way to try it out.
 
Ok guys I’ve been thinking about this a lot. I came up with a DIY kit budget that I would feel good recommending to a newbie. (See images below.) I think you can do the entire saddle setup including saddle, climbing method, ropes, stand solution, and gear hanger for approx. $386. The price of most new saddles alone is 66-75% that.

Backstory: This past summer at a family reunion, I was comparing saddle gear and climbing methods on trees with an adult cousin. Our 14 year old cousin, who is a hunter and was really curious about saddle hunting (but of course at that age doesn't have a lot of money) asked "How much does it cost to get into saddle hunting?" My older cousin and I sheepishly grinned at each other and hesitated because we both knew the money pit and customization this hobby trends toward. I think we kind of admitted we’d spent several hundred bucks, and he responded with a deflated “Oh” realizing it was probably behind him at that point. All year since, his question has nagged me, probably because I wasn't that far ahead of him in learning about saddle hunting, and I had been asking myself the same question all that preceding spring as I researched gear. Frankly in hindsight, when I look at all the gear, climbing methods, different saddles, etc. I went through, I wish I would've started building this kit according to what I know now. I would’ve saved probably 1-2x the amount of money, almost literally 6 months of every spare moment on YouTube and this forum, a great deal of arguing with my wife about both expenditures, and meanwhile gained greater proficiency in a climbing method.

So as I’ve thought about all this, I put together a DIY RCH + SitDrag One-Sticking & Rappeling Kit cost list. I’m tempted to go buy all this stuff to use as a backup to my current setup! Below is the spiel I would tell anybody who’s considering starting saddle hunting but isn’t sure about investing a lot:

To do this, I assume you have a weapon and backpack already.

RCH+SitDrag+OneStickRappel Budget1.JPG
RCH+SitDrag+OneStickRappel Budget2.JPG

This is the bare-bones-est method I can think of that is—
1. Safe. Doesn’t matter how cool it is if you get injured.
2. Relatively comfortable. Doesn’t matter how cool it is if you’re uncomfortable and you hate it.
3. Lightweight. Unless you’re coming from carrying a climber stand, carrying saddle gear is going to feel like a lot more weight than just your weapon, flashlight, license, knife, and lunch.
4. Most cost-effective in anticipation of future upgrades. You WILL upgrade your gear in the [near] future. You can actually do this whole setup a little cheaper even that I what I designed (especially if you have stuff like paracord and keychain carabiners around your house already). But if you decide that you love this idea and want to upgrade, the only thing I think that will make a substantial improvement is getting a better saddle. Everything else will still work very efficiently.
5. New gear. You don’t need new gear, but until you *literally learn the ropes, I would recommend you buy ropes and safety gear that are in perfect, brand new condition so you have confidence that stuff won’t break and hurt you. Confidence goes a long way in being comfortable and learning the system.

Full disclosure, I have never one-sticked in a RCH + Sit Drag myself. I’ll admit I’m telling you to try something I never completely tried myself. I always had a legitimate saddle. But, there’s plenty of saddle hunters who have done this. I believe it can work, because 90% of this system is what I did when learning, or still do, myself.

Challenges:
1. Learning curve.
For best, safest results, you probably should do this alongside an experienced saddle hunter. The process will be so much faster and easier to build and learn all of this than attempting it alone. However, if you are alone, you can do it.
2. Tying your own knots. You need to learn to tie six knots for this system (figure eight on a bight, figure eight follow-through, stopper knot, double-fisherman's knot, prusik, and I suggest Klemheist for rappeling). These knots are easy to learn, but if tied incorrectly, will probably kill you. It’s critical you study them carefully and practice tying them well every time.
3. One-sticking: ADVANCE YOUR TETHER EVERY STEP AND AVOID SLACK. FALLING WHEN YOUR BRIDGE IS 3-4' ABOVE YOUR TETHER IS GOING TO SUPER HURT AND/OR CAUSE MAJOR/LETHAL DAMAGE. Now that we got that covered, go watch tons of one-sticking videos and ignore the part where the dude climbs with his tether at his ankles. But watch carefully to learn the other tips and tricks.
4. No lineman’s belt. A LB is a helpful tool when learning to climb in a saddle. But to use a LB on a rock harness that lacks lineman’s loops requires you to slightly modify the harness, and I don’t like the idea of modifying gear that could save your life. Moreover, I so rarely use my LB, and I think a lot of saddle hunters too often rely on their LB when they should be instead using their tether, and I’m so convinced that you NEED to have a backup tether (going around limbs, emergency bail out, testing rappel cross-over from tether/rappel line, etc.), that I skipped a LB in this design. If you decide later to get a legit saddle with lineman’s loops and want a LB, you can retie the backup tether to be the lineman’s belt. (But seriously, go buy another backup tether then.)
4. Assembly. You can’t just buy one box, open it, and be ready to go. You’re gonna have to shop at several suppliers. You’re gonna have to invest some time and tools to build all of this. But it’s fun. Hopefully this spreadsheet helps you from being overwhelmed.
 
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I'm open to any critique to this list any experienced members want to bring. And as always for anybody new reading these posts, you are entirely responsible for your own safety. Don't just replicate what some guy on the internet says because he said so. It's fine to assemble ideas and be inspired by what somebody else is suggesting, but you have to do your own research.
 
Seems pretty awesome for a one stick set up. Good work!

My only way to be cheaper is a primal plywood platform. I made one for $20. I upgraded after one season and I'm ridiculously cheap so take that for what you will but some people like that platform. You can search for it on here. You're option is probably better for a little more money.
 
Ok guys I’ve been thinking about this a lot. I came up with a DIY kit budget that I would feel good recommending to a newbie. (See images below.) I think you can do the entire saddle setup including saddle, climbing method, ropes, stand solution, and gear hanger for approx. $386. The price of most new saddles alone is 66-75% that.

Backstory: This past summer at a family reunion, I was comparing saddle gear and climbing methods on trees with an adult cousin. Our 14 year old cousin, who is a hunter and was really curious about saddle hunting (but of course at that age doesn't have a lot of money) asked "How much does it cost to get into saddle hunting?" My older cousin and I sheepishly grinned at each other and hesitated because we both knew the money pit and customization this hobby trends toward. I think we kind of admitted we’d spent several hundred bucks, and he responded with a deflated “Oh” realizing it was probably behind him at that point. All year since, his question has nagged me, probably because I wasn't that far ahead of him in learning about saddle hunting, and I had been asking myself the same question all that preceding spring as I researched gear. Frankly in hindsight, when I look at all the gear, climbing methods, different saddles, etc. I went through, I wish I would've started building this kit according to what I know now. I would’ve saved probably 1-2x the amount of money, almost literally 6 months of every spare moment on YouTube and this forum, a great deal of arguing with my wife about both expenditures, and meanwhile gained greater proficiency in a climbing method.

So as I’ve thought about all this, I put together a DIY RCH + SitDrag One-Sticking & Rappeling Kit cost list. I’m tempted to go buy all this stuff to use as a backup to my current setup! Below is the spiel I would tell anybody who’s considering starting saddle hunting but isn’t sure about investing a lot:

To do this, I assume you have a weapon and backpack already.

View attachment 60994
View attachment 60995

This is the bare-bones-est method I can think of that is—
1. Safe. Doesn’t matter how cool it is if you get injured.
2. Relatively comfortable. Doesn’t matter how cool it is if you’re uncomfortable and you hate it.
3. Lightweight. Unless you’re coming from carrying a climber stand, carrying saddle gear is going to feel like a lot more weight than just your weapon, flashlight, license, knife, and lunch.
4. Most cost-effective in anticipation of future upgrades. You WILL upgrade your gear in the [near] future. You can actually do this whole setup a little cheaper even that I what I designed (especially if you have stuff like paracord and keychain carabiners around your house already). But if you decide that you love this idea and want to upgrade, the only thing I think that will make a substantial improvement is getting a better saddle. Everything else will still work very efficiently.
5. New gear. You don’t need new gear, but until you *literally learn the ropes, I would recommend you buy ropes and safety gear that are in perfect, brand new condition so you have confidence that stuff won’t break and hurt you. Confidence goes a long way in being comfortable and learning the system.

Full disclosure, I have never one-sticked in a RCH + Sit Drag myself. I’ll admit I’m telling you to try something I never completely tried myself. I always had a legitimate saddle. But, there’s plenty of saddle hunters who have done this. I believe it can work, because 90% of this system is what I did when learning, or still do, myself.

Challenges:
1. Learning curve.
For best, safest results, you probably should do this alongside an experienced saddle hunter. The process will be so much faster and easier to build and learn all of this than attempting it alone. However, if you are alone, you can do it.
2. Tying your own knots. You need to learn to tie six knots for this system (figure eight on a bight, figure eight follow-through, stopper knot, double-fisherman's knot, prusik, and I suggest Klemheist for rappeling). These knots are easy to learn, but if tied incorrectly, will probably kill you. It’s critical you study them carefully and practice tying them well every time.
3. One-sticking: ADVANCE YOUR TETHER EVERY STEP AND AVOID SLACK. FALLING WHEN YOUR BRIDGE IS 3-4' ABOVE YOUR TETHER IS GOING TO SUPER HURT AND/OR CAUSE MAJOR/LETHAL DAMAGE. Now that we got that covered, go watch tons of one-sticking videos and ignore the part where the dude climbs with his tether at his ankles. But watch carefully to learn the other tips and tricks.
4. No lineman’s belt. A LB is a helpful tool when learning to climb in a saddle. But to use a LB on a rock harness that lacks lineman’s loops requires you to slightly modify the harness, and I don’t like the idea of modifying gear that could save your life. Moreover, I so rarely use my LB, and I think a lot of saddle hunters too often rely on their LB when they should be instead using their tether, and I’m so convinced that you NEED to have a backup tether (going around limbs, emergency bail out, testing rappel cross-over from tether/rappel line, etc.), that I skipped a LB in this design. If you decide later to get a legit saddle with lineman’s loops and want a LB, you can retie the backup tether to be the lineman’s belt. (But seriously, go buy another backup tether then.)
4. Assembly. You can’t just buy one box, open it, and be ready to go. You’re gonna have to shop at several suppliers. You’re gonna have to invest some time and tools to build all of this. But it’s fun. Hopefully this spreadsheet helps you from being overwhelmed.

 
I'm open to any critique to this list any experienced members want to bring. And as always for anybody new reading these posts, you are entirely responsible for your own safety. Don't just replicate what some guy on the internet says because he said so. It's fine to assemble ideas and be inspired by what somebody else is suggesting, but you have to do your own research.
That a good list....I do have to totally disagree with u on ur opinions of a linesman's belt....is there no harness that has loops already on it?
 
That a good list....I do have to totally disagree with u on ur opinions of a linesman's belt....is there no harness that has loops already on it?
Not that I'd seen. Do you have a link for a RCH from manufacturer with lineman's loops? I know DIY Sportsman modded his own, but he had to have a special loop on the back of his RCH (not all harnesses would) to run the belt through, and it was still a workaround that he advised is marginally safe.
 
I’ll have to look into that. I’m working on another spreadsheet using multiple sticks since that’s probably easier to start with. But the cost really jumps because you need lineman’s loops, ergo a saddle.
 
Didn't that lime green harness that all the peeps were buying on sale have linesman's loops on it? I can't remember the name of the harness
 
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