Recon any new mods?

[KYhunter66]

Another recon fan here. I removed the rubber on the plates only on the bottom part (the part where the seatbelt webbing goes through) and left the rubber on the part that bridge webbing feeds through. It makes a big difference in ability to move/equalize the panels, highly recommended.

NOTE: when I removed the rubber there was a little sharp-ish divot in the middle of the plate where the webbing runs over it. I used needle files and sandpaper to smooth it out. I haven't noticed any wear on the webbing after I removed the rubber, but I did sand and smooth it as noted above and would recommend others do the same to avoid wear on the webbing.

I also removed the stitches holding the panels together and it also improved the ability to equalize and move the panels, but I have to be more careful when I roll up the saddle not to get things twisted. I go back and forth on whether it was worth it but I generally lean toward yes.

The new Recon I just received has the new coating on the plates!! I was talking about it before on here. I'm not gonna remove it for a while and see how it works. My order Recon I removed the rubber and never had any problems. I'm hunting with it today and tomorrow for the first time I will post later.

 

[John 35]

I left the rubber on and it eventually broke in and stopped making noise.

 

[KYhunter66]

I left the rubber on and it eventually broke in and stopped making noise.

Did you flip the panels? I think with the rubber on the plates it would be hard to do.

 

[John 35]

I use it upside down and always keep the panels over lapped in the middle. I don’t use the leg straps. I snipped the threads on mine because the straps overlapping in the middle wouldn’t equalize pressure. I think using it upside down might be the equivalent of flipping the panels if I’m understanding it correctly. I also wrapped some shock cord around the middle straps to keep it organized.

 

[mike.podolan]

Another recon fan here. I removed the rubber on the plates only on the bottom part (the part where the seatbelt webbing goes through) and left the rubber on the part that bridge webbing feeds through. It makes a big difference in ability to move/equalize the panels, highly recommended.

NOTE: when I removed the rubber there was a little sharp-ish divot in the middle of the plate where the webbing runs over it. I used needle files and sandpaper to smooth it out. I haven't noticed any wear on the webbing after I removed the rubber, but I did sand and smooth it as noted above and would recommend others do the same to avoid wear on the webbing.

I also removed the stitches holding the panels together and it also improved the ability to equalize and move the panels, but I have to be more careful when I roll up the saddle not to get things twisted. I go back and forth on whether it was worth it but I generally lean toward yes.

Removing the rubber just on the bottom was exactly what I was thinking! My main concern was what you noted: if the metal underneath had any sharp edges. Sounds like it’s fixable even if so, though.

Another mod I did was with the leg straps. I am certainly unsure if they would help in the event of a fall, but I found that having them on in the new configuration helps keep the saddle in place better while walking in.

Essentially, I ran the leg straps through the webbing as intended, but then I ran it through the strap buckle and cinch it so the buckle pulls tight to the webbing. This holds the strap tight there and leaves a long tag end that then goes around my leg. I then attached a G hook to the tag end and use that to attach to the molle on the saddle. It’s basically a rigged up system that mimics the leg straps on a Tethrd saddle (I also have a Mantis that I didn’t really like) without having to see anything on (I don’t currently have that skill).


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[Allegheny Tom]

I have been using a Recon for the past two seasons, so I appreciate all of this info! I really like the Recon so far, but I have a few questions based on the mods you’ve discussed here.
1. Did removing the rubber coating from the plates help the webbing to move/equalize a bit more easily? 2. Are the plates wearing on the webbing at all without the coating?
3. What size shock cord is that/where did you buy it?


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The shock cord is 3/16" and I used that size initially because that's what I had on hand. Actually, I had some of that cheap mini shock cord that they sell at the dollar store and it made me realize that, with high quality shock cord, it was feasible to make a bungee-type belt.
I bought it from https://sgtknots.com/collections/shock-cord. I see that SGT KNOTS is also on Amazon which may save shipping costs or effect availability of size and color. Lately, if I can go around Amazon and buy directly from the supplier that's what I prefer. Amazon is just too big IMO.
SGT K sells a few different grades of shock cord. I've been very satisfied with their polyester cord but I did buy a few yards of the Dyneema shock cord and It's great. When I bought it, they offered the dyneema version by the foot, but I only see it offered in 500 foot rolls now. Maybe contact them and ask if it's available by the foot. It's really good stuff, but 500 feet is $$$!

Keep in mind that my Recons were the 1st prototypes Mark made. They never had the rubber coating on those. They are the medium size and at one point I wanted to try a production model in Small. I did remove the rubber coating on it but I soon realized that I liked the prototypes better than the production models so I sold it...Never really hunted out of it much, if at all. And, as @shmeags said, it's best to check the plats for any rough edges which would be an easy fix with a file. The old coating probably had a slight impediment in how easily the straps slid but I never really gave that coating a fair test. Once I heard the noise they made, I immediately removed the coating. I assume the new coating is not an issue but I can't comment on it because I've never had it in hand. I've had no wear whatsoever on the webbing from the plates.
If there's anything that restricts how well the straps slide through the plates, it would be the way the belt is anchored to the plates. The plastic tri-slide buckle thing does kinda pinch down on the straps between it and the plates. Which is another reason why I prefer a bungee belt. It eliminates the tri-slide.

And I'm going to disagree with guys that are removing the stitching. Mark and I went back and forth trying to decide if the stitching helped or hurt the design. The Anderson had the stitches so we figured they must have had a purpose. But we tried them both ways, with and without. If the straps equalized better without the stitching, it was negligible to the point we couldn't notice a difference. But what we did notice was the straps could easily become twisted and disoriented when the sling wasn't worn...in the laundry, storage tub, or pack. I would not remove the stitching.

 

[Allegheny Tom]

I left the rubber on and it eventually broke in and stopped making noise.

Until it broke-in did the noise screw-up any opportunities on deer? I didn't want to risk it.
We coated the rubber with bow string wax and it quieted the noise, but once again, I didn't want to depend on it in a variety of conditions. If Murphy rears his ugly head, it will be when the buck of a lifetime is in our lap. I wasn't taking any chances so I removed the stuff that wasn't needed anyway.

 

[mike.podolan]

Until it broke-in did the noise screw-up any opportunities on deer? I didn't want to risk it.
We coated the rubber with bow string wax and it quieted the noise, but once again, I didn't want to depend on it in a variety of conditions. If Murphy rears his ugly head, it will be when the buck of a lifetime is in our lap. I wasn't taking any chances so I removed the stuff that wasn't needed anyway.

I rubbed some paraffin wax into the webbing in the stretch near the rubber, and that seemed to work, too. It definitely could come back and is something to consider, though!


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[Allegheny Tom]

I rubbed some paraffin wax into the webbing in the stretch near the rubber, and that seemed to work, too. It definitely could come back and is something to consider, though!


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Exactly! And we all know when the noise would return...when you least want it to.
I felt the same way about the Predator noise. No band aid fixes.

 

[Wirrex]

I’m a noise freak. I stripped my plates after the first sit. Thought about wrapping them but it really hasn’t been an issue since I don’t have much metal in my system.

 

[mike.podolan]

The shock cord is 3/16" and I used that size initially because that's what I had on hand. Actually, I had some of that cheap mini shock cord that they sell at the dollar store and it made me realize that, with high quality shock cord, it was feasible to make a bungee-type belt.
I bought it from https://sgtknots.com/collections/shock-cord. I see that SGT KNOTS is also on Amazon which may save shipping costs or effect availability of size and color. Lately, if I can go around Amazon and buy directly from the supplier that's what I prefer. Amazon is just too big IMO.
SGT K sells a few different grades of shock cord. I've been very satisfied with their polyester cord but I did buy a few yards of the Dyneema shock cord and It's great. When I bought it, they offered the dyneema version by the foot, but I only see it offered in 500 foot rolls now. Maybe contact them and ask if it's available by the foot. It's really good stuff, but 500 feet is $$$!

Keep in mind that my Recons were the 1st prototypes Mark made. They never had the rubber coating on those. They are the medium size and at one point I wanted to try a production model in Small. I did remove the rubber coating on it but I soon realized that I liked the prototypes better than the production models so I sold it...Never really hunted out of it much, if at all. And, as @shmeags said, it's best to check the plats for any rough edges which would be an easy fix with a file. The old coating probably had a slight impediment in how easily the straps slid but I never really gave that coating a fair test. Once I heard the noise they made, I immediately removed the coating. I assume the new coating is not an issue but I can't comment on it because I've never had it in hand. I've had no wear whatsoever on the webbing from the plates.
If there's anything that restricts how well the straps slide through the plates, it would be the way the belt is anchored to the plates. The plastic tri-slide buckle thing does kinda pinch down on the straps between it and the plates. Which is another reason why I prefer a bungee belt. It eliminates the tri-slide.

And I'm going to disagree with guys that are removing the stitching. Mark and I went back and forth trying to decide if the stitching helped or hurt the design. The Anderson had the stitches so we figured they must have had a purpose. But we tried them both ways, with and without. If the straps equalized better without the stitching, it was negligible to the point we couldn't notice a difference. But what we did notice was the straps could easily become twisted and disoriented when the sling wasn't worn...in the laundry, storage tub, or pack. I would not remove the stitching.

Is this essentially the same specs as what you bought? Did you go with Dyneema just mainly for added strength? For some reason not having a webbing/other seemingly stronger belt material makes me nervous. Any reason that I shouldn’t worry about it?
https://www.fisheriessupply.com/fse-robline-dyneema-covered-shock-cord/dsc-5w


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[KYhunter66]

I’m a noise freak. I stripped my plates after the first sit. Thought about wrapping them but it really hasn’t been an issue since I don’t have much metal in my system.

I just got back from hunting in the new Recon tonight! The new coating is better made some noise but not as bad as the rubber did. It's a really hard coating more like plastic. I didn't flip the panels yet and the new buckle is really nice you can pull it tight easily enough.

 

[KYhunter66]

Definitely like the panels flipped it's not as comfortable. Some one was saying on here you can turn upside down and do the same thing? I don't think so but need to look at it.

 

[Allegheny Tom]

Definitely like the panels flipped it's not as comfortable. Some one was saying on here you can turn upside down and do the same thing? I don't think so but need to look at it.

Yeah, turning upside down accomplishes the same thing as "flipping the plates" which is essentually changing the routing of the straps through the plates. Hard to explain but it accomplishes the same thing...changes the the bottom strap from an "inny" to an "outie", which is a little wider on the hips.
The only thing about using it upside down is the molly loops will now be on the bottom panel. My prototypes don't have mollys, and I don't use pouches so it doesn't apply to me.
Early on, I saw Mark flip the buckles once and it seemed like a magic trick.
That's how I learned it was possible to change the routing so that's all I knew.
Then someone on SH said to just use it upside down...super simple and great for a quick test to see which way you prefer. You can then twist the straps if if you want it that way. Recon versatility!

 

[KYhunter66]

Yeah, turning upside down accomplishes the same thing as "flipping the plates" which is essentually changing the routing of the straps through the plates. Hard to explain but it accomplishes the same thing...changes the the bottom strap from an "inny" to an "outie", which is a little wider on the hips.
The only thing about using it upside down is the molly loops will now be on the bottom panel. My prototypes don't have mollys, and I don't use pouches so it doesn't apply to me.
Early on, I saw Mark flip the buckles once and it seemed like a magic trick.
That's how I learned it was possible to change the routing so that's all I knew.
Then someone on SH said to just use it upside down...super simple and great for a quick test to see which way you prefer. You can then twist the straps if if you want it that way. Recon versatility!

Thanks Tom, just curious what length bridge are you using? And tether hight? On the Recon. Thanks again

 

[Allegheny Tom]

Is this essentially the same specs as what you bought? Did you go with Dyneema just mainly for added strength? For some reason not having a webbing/other seemingly stronger belt material makes me nervous. Any reason that I shouldn’t worry about it?
https://www.fisheriessupply.com/fse-robline-dyneema-covered-shock-cord/dsc-5w


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I'm not sure. Is 5mm similar to 3/16"?
Also, the Sgt Knots shock cord is 100% stretch which IMO is critical, and they advertise it to be military and marine grade. I have no idea if military and marine grades are quantifiable or is it just a sales pitch?? IDK but I do know the quality is awesome.
I used the polyester for several seasons and am completely satisfied with it. Then I saw the dyneema and decided to buy some just to have on hand for other applications. See the thread on zip tie shock cord uses. The dyneema with zip ties makes great boot laces.
As far as safety goes, everyone must assess their own limits on risks. With that being said, in the event of a fall, I don't believe the belt will do anything more than what a tether/bridge connection will do. Especially when considering that a lot of users loosen the belt when tethered. That was the main purpose for the bungee belt. It keeps the sling snug on the body during all circumstances. I don't know how you could fall out of it. BUT THAT'S JUST MY RISK TOLERANCE. YOU HAVE TO DECODE FOR YOURSELF.
Stay safe.

 

[mike.podolan]

I'm not sure. Is 5mm similar to 3/16"?
Also, the Sgt Knots shock cord is 100% stretch which IMO is critical, and they advertise it to be military and marine grade. I have no idea if military and marine grades are quantifiable or is it just a sales pitch?? IDK but I do know the quality is awesome.
I used the polyester for several seasons and am completely satisfied with it. Then I saw the dyneema and decided to buy some just to have on hand for other applications. See the thread on zip tie shock cord uses. The dyneema with zip ties makes great boot laces.
As far as safety goes, everyone must assess their own limits on risks. With that being said, in the event of a fall, I don't believe the belt will do anything more than what a tether/bridge connection will do. Especially when considering that a lot of users loosen the belt when tethered. That was the main purpose for the bungee belt. It keeps the sling snug on the body during all circumstances. I don't know how you could fall out of it. BUT THAT'S JUST MY RISK TOLERANCE. YOU HAVE TO DECODE FOR YOURSELF.
Stay safe.

Yeah, those diameters are essentially the same. I reached out to SGT Knots to see if they’ll still sell by the foot. I appreciate the info!


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[Allegheny Tom]

Thanks Tom, just curious what length bridge are you using? And tether hight? On the Recon. Thanks again

I like my bridge really short. Its just under 16".
And I'm thoroughly convinced that the Recon, ESS, Anderson designs work best with an ultra low tether. Arm pit/ collar bone height. I really like the combination of short bridge and low tether. It keeps everything out of the way for drawing my stickbow. The worst thing for me is for my draw arm elbow to make contact with anything during my draw...concentration killer!

 

[Allegheny Tom]

Yeah, those diameters are essentially the same. I reached out to SGT Knots to see if they’ll still sell by the foot. I appreciate the info!


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They sell the polyester by the foot and it works just fine.

 

[John 35]

Until it broke-in did the noise screw-up any opportunities on deer? I didn't want to risk it.
We coated the rubber with bow string wax and it quieted the noise, but once again, I didn't want to depend on it in a variety of conditions. If Murphy rears his ugly head, it will be when the buck of a lifetime is in our lap. I wasn't taking any chances so I removed the stuff that wasn't needed anyway.

At first when I noticed the noise i wrapped some camo pattern duct tape I had on hand around the bottom of the plates where the straps run through it. The tape was very slick and it prevented the friction between the straps and the rubber causing the noise. Eventually the tape wore out and the noise just went away on its own. All I can say is it doesn’t do it anymore, never did spook any deer and I’ve probably killed around a dozen out of it. In regards to the stitching it made it uncomfortable when I had the middle straps overlapping so I removed it. I never separate the panels anymore and secured the straps by wrapping shock cord around the overlapping straps in the middle. You are correct that removing the stitching ruins the organization of the straps if used as intended but I don’t use it that way. Fair warning to anyone thinking that f doing it.