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Rest/Plunger Combo

Scott F said:
I've heard of other folks going to a 2 fletch arrow, but I do everything I can to tune a bareshaft to fly true, and this year I am going to a 4 fletch arrow for hunting.

Tuning field points is easy for me but I like to shoot big and wide broadheads so the potential for them to plane off course is a very likely situation when the conditions exist for that. In theory, a 4 fletch arrow will be able to control it a little better, that's the theory at least. I am as frugal as most but I am going to splurge a little this year and 'waste' one additional feather per arrow. <note the sarcasm>
If I did worry about my broadhead planing in the wind I would go back to my WW broadheads because I have them on hand. I am thinking about the biggest 2 blade I can find.

I am going to hunt exclusively with my recurve this season which means I will likely do some broadhead tuning with the planing method vs just grouping broadhead tipped arrows with the mechanicals I used with my compound.
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Speaking of wide two blades out of a recurve, I tested and tuned the 190 grain Simmons Timbersharks. They shot great to 40 yards and I never saw and planning. They also spin pretty true and punch through deer well so far
 
I shot Iron Will Solids last year from my compound. 200 grains. They weren’t cheap, but I think they would last a lifetime based on the performance I got from them last season.

I plan to shoot those, Tuffhead Single Bevel, or the GrizzlyStik Maasai single bevels.


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Oakridge said:
Speaking of wide two blades out of a recurve, I tested and tuned the 190 grain Simmons Timbersharks. They shot great to 40 yards and I never saw and planning. They also spin pretty true and punch through deer well so far
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I was looking into the Simmons after some videos I saw on them. I like the length and angle of the 190 Interceptor. I just haven’t heard a lot about them. Very reasonably priced.


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Arkie said:
I shot Iron Will Solids last year from my compound. 200 grains. They weren’t cheap, but I think they would last a lifetime based on the performance I got from them last season.

I plan to shoot those, Tuffhead Single Bevel, or the GrizzlyStik Maasai single bevels.


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Click to expand...

Okay, now I know beyond a doubt that you were simply messing around earlier when you wrote about saving money!
 
Arkie said:
I was looking into the Simmons after some videos I saw on them. I like the length and angle of the 190 Interceptor. I just haven’t heard a lot about them. Very reasonably priced.


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Click to expand...
They’ve always shot well for me, yes reasonably well priced but I find they take a decent amount of work to get hunt ready sharp
 
Oakridge said:
Speaking of wide two blades out of a recurve, I tested and tuned the 190 grain Simmons Timbersharks. They shot great to 40 yards and I never saw and planning. They also spin pretty true and punch through deer well so far
Click to expand...


This is my only remaining Simmons head. They are fantastic broadheads, so long as you can sharpen them.
Oakridge is speaking the truth about how they fly. They are near the top of my list this year, as are the biggest Zwickey's and ACE's.Simmons broadhead.jpg
 
I shot the tree sharks for awhile but found I prefer the timber sharks due to being nonvented and a bit stouter
 
YMMV but the way I sharpened them was to adhere various grits of sandpaper on a wooden dowel rod, then cover the part of the head that I want to sharpen with a sharpie pen. Screw the head onto a short length of arrow shaft and take your time. It is tough to get a burr on these things, but when you do and you knock off the burr from the other side they get sharp! A ceramic stick after that and they will get the job done.

This one in the picture has been sitting in a tackle box for years, now I am glad I still have it.
 
I like the big broadheads have used he big azz Simmons for years with 2 fletched arrows works great for me. I bareshaft as well and actually enjoy it I’m always tweaking my gear I used to shoot off shelf on all my bows. It come to appreciate the ease of tuning with plungers and elevated rests
 
That’s a great way to do it! I already had the KME knife sharpening system so I got there three sided jewel stick for curved blades. It works awesome for Simmons
 
Scott F said:
Okay, now I know beyond a doubt that you were simply messing around earlier when you wrote about saving money!
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Maybe not saving, just rolling it into more broadheads instead of a rest, haha.


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Oakridge said:
That’s a great way to do it! I already had the KME knife sharpening system so I got there three sided jewel stick for curved blades. It works awesome for Simmons
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I watched this video a few days ago, and it looked like that Jewel stick worked pretty well.



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After watching a lot of YouTube videos, I may be sold on the Simmons broad heads for this next season.


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@Scott F how do the different weight springs work on the springy rest? Is there a recommended weight for a given draw weight?

I figure since @GCTerpfan just put a Hoyt rest on his bow and forever abandoned the purity of a stickbow... I should too. :tearsofjoy:
 
Red Beard said:
I figure since @GCTerpfan just put a Hoyt rest on his bow and forever abandoned the purity of a stickbow... I should too. :tearsofjoy:
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I should never have told you! Next you will be talking about putting an EZV on your stick bow again :rolleyes:

Kidding, as long as you don't start trying to figure out how to rig up 'wheels' on the ends of your Samick limbs I'll still talk to you :)
 
I don’t use a springy rest muchas you basically screw into riser but use the heaviest spring available for plunger and tighten all the way down. You can tweak the tension on your bareshaft with what the flight of the shaft is telling you either by tightening or loosening. Nothing wrong with a cheap Hoyt rest. I have one set up like that on a wood ilf riser and I like that I can shoot vanes off that as well as feathers. I actually set that bow up for my wet weather days
 
Red Beard said:
@Scott F how do the different weight springs work on the springy rest? Is there a recommended weight for a given draw weight?

I figure since @GCTerpfan just put a Hoyt rest on his bow and forever abandoned the purity of a stickbow... I should too. :tearsofjoy:
Click to expand...

I bought my springy rest a whole bunch of years ago; I believe it was a Martin Spring Rest. It came with (3x) springs and I put the lightest spring on first - but I shoot full length, fairly heavy carbon arrows and it barely kept the arrow on the rest because it sagged down so far. I pulled that spring off and immediately put the heaviest one on and never even considered trying the medium spring!

FWIW, Hoyt rests are really nice too! :)

For anyone concerned about putting a metal, rubber, plastic or other "non-trad" rest on your bow, you are doing yourself a disservice.
Here is what you do:

-Buy a can of the brightest pink spray paint (get the cheap stuff). Paint your BOTTOM limb tip entirely, actually paint about 1.5" up your bottom limb too. It isn't an exact science. Now, every time you head to your local range, all your friends will stare at your bottom limb and never even notice your rest!
 
Red Beard said:
@Scott F how do the different weight springs work on the springy rest? Is there a recommended weight for a given draw weight?

I figure since @GCTerpfan just put a Hoyt rest on his bow and forever abandoned the purity of a stickbow... I should too. :tearsofjoy:
Click to expand...

I have abandoned the purity as well so don’t feel too bad..
I ordered a micro adjust springy rest with the ILF set up I bought this week. This one had an option to get springs of 5 different weights so I went with that.


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Get heaviest spring you can for under 50# use 25oz and any weight above 50# limbs use the 30oz and remember to angle spring arm slightly up just enough to hold arrow. It will be less interference with feathers or vanes and cleaner shot
 
Razorbak66 said:
Get heaviest spring you can for under 50# use 25oz and any weight above 50# limbs use the 30oz and remember to angle spring arm slightly up just enough to hold arrow. It will be less interference with feathers or vanes and cleaner shot
Click to expand...
I've got a springy on the way. Do you turn the cock feather down? Or away from the riser?
 
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