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Rest/Plunger Combo

Most guys run cock feather out like you normally shoot off any rest but if any interference then rotate nock until you don’t get interference same for 4 fletch but definitely bare shaft do you know that arrow combo is gonna work to begin with then when you add feathers then pretty much no problem I run 2 fletch arrows so I don’t worry about it. You guys can wrap spring by with glide dental floss or shrink tube to quiet it down or get a small clear tube like the wd40 can comes with cut 3/4” and boil it until pliable then slide on spring let cool and shoot it for several years before you replace
 
Perfect it matches your beard
Ps I would clip that little nib you don’t want any obstruction Smooth smooth. LOL
 
So RB. How the springy working for you? Easy Peasy huh. I don’t know if I personally will ever shoot of shelf unless I build another BBO or self bow then I will go wood with that but I will build up a radius shelf for it
 
Razorbak66 said:
So RB. How the springy working for you? Easy Peasy huh. I don’t know if I personally will ever shoot of shelf unless I build another BBO or self bow then I will go wood with that but I will build up a radius shelf for it
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To answer your question, yes. The springy rest is surprisingly easy to set up. I am now shooting a certain arrow from my Sage that I never could off the shelf.

Now, I'm going to digress for a bit and talk about @JSEXTON23... The dude is giver and a complete ROCKSTAR. He took what I consider to be a pile of time to help me the past few days through the "whys" of trad tuning. He broke down for me (sometimes in picture format) what the effect of X would be on Y if it was moved away from the riser by 1/8". His patience is amazing and his understanding of the relationships between tiller, nocking point, and tip weight is pretty sweet. I tell you, I'm real blessed to have a bunch of dudes like him, @GCTerpfan, @JCLINE84, @always89y, and others helping me figure out the mechanics of a stickbow! :)
 
I don’t know him personally but, [mention]JSEXTON23 [/mention]seems to be a good dude for sure. I had some questions about a certain hang on stand in another thread. He reached out privately, got my number, and text me some pictures and videos of some of the items I had questions about.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Red Beard said:
To answer your question, yes. The springy rest is surprisingly easy to set up. I am now shooting a certain arrow from my Sage that I never could off the shelf.

Now, I'm going to digress for a bit and talk about @JSEXTON23... The dude is giver and a complete ROCKSTAR. He took what I consider to be a pile of time to help me the past few days through the "whys" of trad tuning. He broke down for me (sometimes in picture format) what the effect of X would be on Y if it was moved away from the riser by 1/8". His patience is amazing and his understanding of the relationships between tiller, nocking point, and tip weight is pretty sweet. I tell you, I'm real blessed to have a bunch of dudes like him, @GCTerpfan, @JCLINE84, @always89y, and others helping me figure out the mechanics of a stickbow! :)
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Aw shucks. Now I’m blushing. Thanks guys. I’m just thankful for the opportunity to help out. The generosity that’s been passed my way by a lot of people in this community and the traditional archery community is immeasurable. I find a great deal of pleasure serving others.
 
Red Beard said:
To answer your question, yes. The springy rest is surprisingly easy to set up. I am now shooting a certain arrow from my Sage that I never could off the shelf.

Now, I'm going to digress for a bit and talk about @JSEXTON23... The dude is giver and a complete ROCKSTAR. He took what I consider to be a pile of time to help me the past few days through the "whys" of trad tuning. He broke down for me (sometimes in picture format) what the effect of X would be on Y if it was moved away from the riser by 1/8". His patience is amazing and his understanding of the relationships between tiller, nocking point, and tip weight is pretty sweet. I tell you, I'm real blessed to have a bunch of dudes like him, @GCTerpfan, @JCLINE84, @always89y, and others helping me figure out the mechanics of a stickbow! :)
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You got a good set of guys here to offer good sound advice and @JSEXTON23 makes a mean looking string and if I didn’t roll my own I would ask him to make some and now I should get you to complicate somethings and have you shoot some 2 fletch arrows LOL
 
To bad we’re all spaced out between these different states there’s quite a few of you guys I would have you over for a bbq and some beverages so we can shoot bows and make and discuss saddles There’s a bunch of great guys on this site. I’ve been a member on quite a few sites over the years but this forum is the best I feel. It’s like your not trying to pat yourself on the back but genuinely trying to help your fellow saddle hunter wether it’s trad or compounds and saddles I’m proud to be a member!
 
Red Beard said:
To answer your question, yes. The springy rest is surprisingly easy to set up. I am now shooting a certain arrow from my Sage that I never could off the shelf.

Now, I'm going to digress for a bit and talk about @JSEXTON23... The dude is giver and a complete ROCKSTAR. He took what I consider to be a pile of time to help me the past few days through the "whys" of trad tuning. He broke down for me (sometimes in picture format) what the effect of X would be on Y if it was moved away from the riser by 1/8". His patience is amazing and his understanding of the relationships between tiller, nocking point, and tip weight is pretty sweet. I tell you, I'm real blessed to have a bunch of dudes like him, @GCTerpfan, @JCLINE84, @always89y, and others helping me figure out the mechanics of a stickbow! :)
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Did your springy rest allow you to shoot vaned arrows or whatever spine off the shelf? I had another take down recurve bow that was cut past center that I used something similar that allowed me to shoot any arrow I wanted so long as they werent under-spined. I am thinking of going to one of the below rests on my recurve. I have been shooting off the shelf with no problem but I thought these might buy me something. I am not convinced getting it off the bottom shelf will help any with my arrow flight.


My current bow looks like it might be cut a little past center.
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1626037601216.pngC930453D-DA21-42BF-BA8B-54BBF9AA9036.jpeg
 
gcr0003 said:
Did your springy rest allow you to shoot vaned arrows or whatever spine off the shelf?
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Not sure I understand your question. Yes, I can shoot vanes or feathers off this springy. However, the springy is a true elevated rest (not shooting off the shelf anymore).
20210711_172358.jpg
 
Red Beard said:
Not sure I understand your question. Yes, I can shoot vanes or feathers off this springy. However, the springy is a true elevated rest (not shooting off the shelf anymore).
View attachment 49295
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Yea I guess the question was just can you shoot whatever you want off of it now. I won't be able to use a springy thing but maybe one of the other elevated rests will allow me to shoot a wider range of arrow through my bow. I would love to shoot the same arrows out of my compound and recurve. Shaft* I'll still probably shoot feathers. The arrows I have are were just a tad stiff for the setup I have right now when I was shooting off the shelf.
 
I would use the middle two for your bow and yes you can shoot vanes easily as well feathers as long as you get the correct spine
 
Razorbak66 said:
I would use the middle two for your bow and yes you can shoot vanes easily as well feathers as long as you get the correct spine
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Well if it’s still spine dependent then the arrow rest doesn’t buy me anything. My old greater than center cut bow I could shoot any spine that was stiff enough. So say 400 would be the perfect spine then I could still shoot 340 and 300 no problem. It doesn’t sound like you think that’s the cast with my bow and one of the rest of shown. It’s not cut past center enough?
 
gcr0003 said:
Well if it’s still spine dependent then the arrow rest doesn’t buy me anything. My old greater than center cut bow I could shoot any spine that was stiff enough. So say 400 would be the perfect spine then I could still shoot 340 and 300 no problem. It doesn’t sound like you think that’s the cast with my bow and one of the rest of shown. It’s not cut past center enough?
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It looks to be cut just a little past center. You have to remember that the stick on rest is going to move things away from the riser however think the stick on material is. 1/8” centershot is often a whole spine group in adjustment.
I would shoot the bear weather rest personally. You can always take it off. My guess is it will buy you some clearance and maybe allow for a different spine.
 
JSEXTON23 said:
It looks to be cut just a little past center. You have to remember that the stick on rest is going to move things away from the riser however think the stick on material is. 1/8” centershot is often a whole spine group in adjustment.
I would shoot the bear weather rest personally. You can always take it off. My guess is it will buy you some clearance and maybe allow for a different spine.
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Yea, that’s what I figured. I’ll give it a shot thanks.
 
Razorbak66 said:
I would use the middle two for your bow and yes you can shoot vanes easily as well feathers as long as you get the correct spine
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Like any bow you need to have a correct spine to shoot perfect regardless of feather or vanes. Yes the bow looks slightly past center and once you put the rest on your most likely gonna be at center and the aae rest you can pop that metal spring clip off and be at center but it’s there if you want or needed if you want to shoot 400 spine or 350 spine just tune it with what ever point weight that will work for that bow regardless of cast as you will learn how flat that bow shoots and you adjust for it
I agree a simple bear weather rest is a great rest. Just tune the bow to what ever arrow gonna work out of it. I chose the 2 middle as I feel they are more sturdy than the other ones
 
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