-
The SH Membership has gone live. Only SH Members have access to post in the classifieds. All members can view the classifieds. Starting in 2020 only SH Members will be admitted to the annual hunting contest. Current members will need to follow these steps to upgrade: 1. Click on your username 2. Click on Account upgrades 3. Choose SH Member and purchase.
-
We've been working hard the past few weeks to come up with some big changes to our vendor policies to meet the changing needs of our community. Please see the new vendor rules here: Vendor Access Area Rules
Rope Walking Videos
- Thread starter bj139
- Start date
- Joined
- Oct 14, 2014
- Messages
- 1,426
Roperunner and a foot ascender and knee ascender the only way to fly! This is almost a must climbing the huge Sequoia and such on the West coast. I think with presets this form of SRT is the most efficient way to climb and if you know how to foot lock all you need is the hybrid device to ascend. While I understand the use of RADS by most on here is probably necessitated by just the cost it is not the most efficient or speedy way to ascend.
I like SRT/RADS the best. Ropewalking requires too much hardware and requires you to push all your weight with one leg at a time. With RADS, I pull up with two arms and one leg at the same time. With my weight distributed on two arms and a leg it is super easy. Less hardware means less clinking noise as well.
- Joined
- Oct 14, 2014
- Messages
- 1,426
I don't agree with more hardware as I use a Roperunner and a foot ascender and a RADS I would use my ISC D4 ,a hand ascender either with a pulley or a seperate one , a foot strap. That's more stuff and I can do an ascent on a preset super fast and quiet.
There is an error in the HitchHiker video which is plainly visible. The rope does not pass behind the upper pin on the HH. The lower pin is still engaged reducing some of the force on the friction hitch but not as much as it was designed to do. Ooops. Even configured wrong, I was still safe, I had a little trouble releasing the friction hitch because of this and my fingers probably would not have heated up if I had it right. You can see in the video I had my Beal Birdie hanging from my saddle just in case I got stuck.
My short videos above show the equipment I need which is 4 things for ropewalking and 2 things for RADS. Isn't the Roperunner midline attachable making it more convenient to install on the rope? Isn't the Roperunner also about $350? I would choke on that. I don't care if it takes me a minute to ascend the tree instead of 15 seconds once all the hardware is in place.
Edit: Just saw the roperunner at Wespur. Yup, $350. It also requires 11 to 13 mm rope making for more rope weight and bulk.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Oct 14, 2014
- Messages
- 1,426
I already had the Roperunner for years for rec tree climbing so I use it for saddle hunting but I don't see anyone purchasing on just for hunting. Roperunner is midline attachable. For someone that does not have the discretionary funds it is cost prohibitive and I was just pointing out that I use less equipment but realize it's not for everyone. I was pointing out energy conservation and this was a major factor years ago when arborists started using SRT in place of DRT . Both have a place and it's great to have choices. Changeover was a major concern in the early days of SRT but with RADS you are able to ascend and descend on the same piece of equipment which is very nice. Glad it is working out for you.
Yes that was my home made version that simply provides a bend in the rope just as the actual Rope Wrench does. It did prevent the VT hitch from locking up solid. An actual Rope Wrench would be much better.
I should've watched all the videos instead of just the one 
. I see how it's made now, FWIW a bend around a pulley isn't nearly enough friction to make it work properly. A wrench has the rope "pinched" so to speak in the tight s-bend between the slic pin and the sheave. It's more complicated to make one work right considering how simple they appear to be. The geometry of them is critical.
. I see how it's made now, FWIW a bend around a pulley isn't nearly enough friction to make it work properly. A wrench has the rope "pinched" so to speak in the tight s-bend between the slic pin and the sheave. It's more complicated to make one work right considering how simple they appear to be. The geometry of them is critical.It doesn't seem possible the rope is pinched in the rope wrench since it has fixed pins. The HitchHiker has moving pins so that happens with that device. Buying an expensive, tested device is best to do this as you noted. These methods have TOO MUCH hardware to be useful for me while hunting. For fun climbing, sure, they would be fun. My friction hitch didn't lock up so it must have done something.I should've watched all the videos instead of just the one
"Pinched" may not have been the best adjective to use but hell I have a degree in engineering and am a retired Arborist, vocabulary isn't my strong suit . I was trying to get the point across that it's not just a bend in the rope that makes it work. It's the amount of friction that it adds that makes it work. A pulley by itself only adds a negligble amount of friction. The wrench device needs to add a significant amount of friction to take the load off of the hitch. A VT (or any suitable friction hitch for that matter) works like a charm in a DdRT system because the hitch is only required to support roughly half the climbers weight. Therefore, on a single leg of rope, the wrench (or any other hybrid device) needs to supply enough friction to support roughly speaking, half the climbers weight in order for the hitch to work properly. That's all I'm saying my friend. Good luck with the project.
. I was trying to get the point across that it's not just a bend in the rope that makes it work. It's the amount of friction that it adds that makes it work. A pulley by itself only adds a negligble amount of friction. The wrench device needs to add a significant amount of friction to take the load off of the hitch. A VT (or any suitable friction hitch for that matter) works like a charm in a DdRT system because the hitch is only required to support roughly half the climbers weight. Therefore, on a single leg of rope, the wrench (or any other hybrid device) needs to supply enough friction to support roughly speaking, half the climbers weight in order for the hitch to work properly. That's all I'm saying my friend. Good luck with the project.
PastorKen
Well-Known Member
I'm going to be ropewalking for hunting this year. I bought a rope wrench from @cedar paul and I love it! I use it for some tree trimming and recreational climbing (not just for hunting). I have all the gear for a RADS system too, but for me ropewalking is SO MUCH EASIER! The sit and stand method of RADS exhausts me. And my hand ascender is a double hand ascender, so it is really a big piece of gear to carry around. The gear I carry for ropewalking is: 40 feet of Sterling 9mm, Ropewrench (& stiff tether, hitch cord, pulley, carabiner), foot ascender (very small), knee ascender (also pretty small). To me, it doesn't seem like a lot to carry. But it really is subjective. I think it is fun using the Rope Wrench, so I'm definitely biased.
PastorKen
Well-Known Member
I do have one concern about the rope wrench. I'm not sure what to expect from it in the rain... I often hunt in the rain. Can I use the RW on a wet 9mm rope?
Yes. This is still America and we are all free to choose our individual climbing methods and not conform to the herd. Rope walking is fun like you said. I have been running every morning 1/4 mile to make my legs stronger. Rope walking should then be easier as well as dragging deer. I am 63 years young and retired. I don't know how any of these devices work in the rain. I am a fair weather hunter.