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Ropeman Safety

Steve Plemmons said:
I upgraded mine to the RollNLock by Climbing Technology. They are rated at 20kN.

They also work on smaller diameter rope. I'm using mine on Sterling Oplux.
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Be mindful that the 20kn rating is for hauling. Basically, the frame can hold 20kn, you can't put 20kn on the rope when using it as a clamp. It will still cut a sheath around 4-6kn as a clamp.

As an ascender/clamp:
1571144597605.png

As a hauler:

1571144896570.png


1571144812278.png
 
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iamcorey said:
Not sure if this or the sweet oplux changed my mind, but I sold both of mine for the oplux and Beal jammy set up.


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Same here.


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I had a practice session today and tried something sort of like mentioned above. Once I had my tether with Ropeman set up, I slid a prussik right up to below my Ropeman and clipped that to my Linesman rope. Once I snugged up the LB, it was like having two bridges. Not bulky and not in the way at all. Felt good to have a backup. And just using something you have with already.
 
WannaBMonkey said:
I had a practice session today and tried something sort of like mentioned above. Once I had my tether with Ropeman set up, I slid a prussik right up to below my Ropeman and clipped that to my Linesman rope. Once I snugged up the LB, it was like having two bridges. Not bulky and not in the way at all. Felt good to have a backup. And just using something you have with already.
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What good is the prussic below the ropeman going to do if the risk you’re attempting to mitigate is the ropeman cutting the rope in the event of a fall?
 
Not trying to prevent a fall from rope getting cut. Just if Ropeman would somehow fail to hold. Not expecting a cut rope at all.
 
justsomedude said:
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Is this a single eye prussic? If so where did you find it? I’m not familiar with names and terminology but this looks great for keeping bulk off the biner.


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elk yinzer said:
The issue with the Ropeman is that it can cut the rope. It's design is basically the same mechanical action as scissors, so....Anyway I think it was cited in testing that became a concern somewhere around 4 or 5 kN but not positive about that number.

With that being the concern, the backup friction hitch should obviously be above the ascender.

Either way, it is low enough to be of concern if there is some fall factor in your system, which in my case not really being a real saddle hunter, being more of stander and occassional leaner, than having weight on the tether all the time, I need to make sure my ropeman is backed up. If you always have weight on the tether that is not a concern really.


This is how I will be backing mine up, if I decide to use the ropeman on the tether at all. I may decide just to cut the ropeman out of the tether, not sure. I need to play with it a few hunts and decide:

View attachment 5309
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43e50b904e6d7815816b371474e4794b.jpg



Which knots are used here Yinzer?


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bob1sh said:
Is this a single eye prussic? If so where did you find it? I’m not familiar with names and terminology but this looks great for keeping bulk off the biner.


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Click to expand...
Looks like a steeling aztek ratchet maybe?
 
I rigged this up the other day after seeing something like it somewhere. Anyone have any concerns? Seemed to function well. 2EDF942B-EE91-4879-AEDC-63C9CCF09CD3.jpeg208675D2-9E49-4F9C-85BE-5825A2FBFD9B.jpeg
 
elk yinzer said:
The friction hitch is a Blake's Hitch. Not sure what the hitch to the biner is. TBH I don't back it up anymore I've grown complacent but I also abandoned all RM1 in favor of the more robust RM2.
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I always thought the only difference between the Ropeman 1 and 2 was the size of rope it's compatible with and that the 2 has smaller, pointier, more numerous teeth. Why do you say the 2 is more robust? Have I missed something?
 
WannaBMonkey said:
I always thought the only difference between the Ropeman 1 and 2 was the size of rope it's compatible with and that the 2 has smaller, pointier, more numerous teeth. Why do you say the 2 is more robust? Have I missed something?
Click to expand...

Hold them both side by side and the 2 definitely has a beefier build. Its thicc. And I just trust it more and with gear you trust your life to trust is everything.
 
WannaBMonkey said:
I always thought the only difference between the Ropeman 1 and 2 was the size of rope it's compatible with and that the 2 has smaller, pointier, more numerous teeth. Why do you say the 2 is more robust? Have I missed something?
Click to expand...
Pointier, grabbier teeth are probably gonna grip more consistently (in addition to the other items mentioned) and are somewhat less damaging to ropes in falls.
 
elk yinzer said:
Hold them both side by side and the 2 definitely has a beefier build. Its thicc. And I just trust it more and with gear you trust your life to trust is everything.
Click to expand...
I have never seen a RM2 in person, only pictures. So never able to do side by side comparison. So, I learned something new today. I use RM1's and decided on them because they are compatible with the rope size I have. Also I always thought the 2 would do more wear and tear on the rope since the teeth appear like they'd be more "snaggy" on the rope. I didn't realize the build was beefier. Interesting!
 
mattsteg said:
Pointier, grabbier teeth are probably gonna grip more consistently (in addition to the other items mentioned) and are somewhat less damaging to ropes in falls.
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Maybe, but I read somewhere in a review or something that they tend to snag the rope fibers and eventually damage the rope. My 1's grip the rope plenty reliably for me. I've never had it threaten to let the rope slip through. Pros and Cons to each, I suppose.
 
WannaBMonkey said:
I have never seen a RM2 in person, only pictures. So never able to do side by side comparison. So, I learned something new today. I use RM1's and decided on them because they are compatible with the rope size I have. Also I always thought the 2 would do more wear and tear on the rope since the teeth appear like they'd be more "snaggy" on the rope. I didn't realize the build was beefier. Interesting!
Click to expand...

There is a bit of a learning curve to keep the teeth from pulling. You have to back off some tension before you disengage the teeth. Kinda like working a clutch once you get the feel it becomes second nature. It's not really much hassle to me, but different strokes for different folks to me it's worth the peace of mind I guess.
 
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