Hey Tree Ghost,
This is one of a series of early singer or brother (this one looks to be 1950's copy of the brother deluxe) clones. Most of them were built by the Japanese in the years following WWII after they bought some of the patents. I think this machine will work just fine for your purposes. Mine is
very similar. They are heavy duty with metal gears and enough space under the presser foot for most gear sewing projects. This model is like mine in that it has an adjustable presser foot tension which helps with thick projects. You will likely have to do some work on it to get it up to speed though. A brief list:
1. Oil all connections with SEWING MACHINE Oil (available at walmart). Don't grease anything until you do this and try it out. Only a few components take white lithium grease and usually it doesn't need to be re-done. You can find basic schematics for this machine's oiling points online. Try searching: Brother Deluxe Manual
2. Check all of the cords inside and out. I had to rewire my machine as the power cord and light cord were significantly worn and not safe. This is usually the biggest issue with machines of this era. You can just pick up a replacement cord from home depot or pick up some defunct appliances at goodwill and cut the cord off. Make sure you watch youtube videos on this but its pretty straight forward. Most of these machines do not have a common/ground connection so I just buried mine inside the receptacle and covered it with shrink tubing.
3. Get a proper sized needle. I use a demin needle but I think for some of my webbing sewing I would be better off with something even bigger.
4. Check the bobbin winder tire to see if it is worn down and needs replacement. This is a cheap and easy fix. I had to replace mine. You can pick up a 3 pack on ebay for cheap.
5. You may want to consider just building a small portable base for it so you aren't forced to have the whole table. (My wife appreciated this greatly)
6. Practice. Practice. Practice. I would spend a lot of time just understanding how the bobbin and thread tensions working and getting the machine dialed in to sew webbing. This was the hardest part for me finding that sweet spot and making good strong stitches. I would sew some pieces together, check all the stitching, and then try to destroy it with my hands. Then, I would tear it apart with a seam ripper. This gives you a lot of info about the strength of your stitches.
7. Be willing to admit if you can't sew something with this machine. Some thick layers of webbing just might not be stitchable without an industrial machine. When I had to fold my saddle's mil spec dive belt webbing loops in half to accept a carabiner I just couldn't get good stitches no matter what so I used hand stitches to finish the job. I would NOT do this in areas that will be load bearing though unless you are a serious gambler with your safety.
Here is a blog post about that machine in particular.
https://stitchnerd.wordpress.com/20...luxe-straight-stitch-sewing-machine-a-review/
