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Sewing machines for DIY

BudgetBuck1

BudgetBuck1

Active Member
Joined
Oct 20, 2017
Messages
179
Location
Hickory, NC
I have been looking for a used sewing machine capable of sewing two layers of webbing and other various thicker materials. My wife has a singer simple for thin stuff but for man stuff I need something stronger. Any ideas or suggestions as to what might be best for an inexperienced sewer with a meager salary? I am wanting to use the machine to make some alterations to my sit/drag saddle and fix my other hunting gear. I found a few straight stitch quilting machines on the market for reasonable prices that have heavier motors and more space to work in but aren't quite industrial. Does anyone use a straight stitch quilting machine or do you all have industrial machines? I am having to use a speedy stitcher now which is anything but speedy. Thanks ahead of time for the help.
 
There are a ton of good (home or household) machines floating around out there. The best ones for DIY gear are going to be older ones from the 50’s, 60’s and early 70’s. I’m a Kenmore fan but Singers are very good as well. Of course I have a Juki now so the Kenmore is my back up. The main thing to look for is ALL METAL !!! internal parts. Just pop off the cover and give them a look. The ones you want will have internals that look like they could power a train! The newer ones with the cheap plastic gears just can’t hold up to what we use them for. The motors also don’t have the power to punch through multiple layers of webbing and Cordura.

These machines are literally everywhere when you start actually looking for them. Odds are someone in your family or a friends mom/grandma has one tucked away in a closet or basement. You might actually be able to find one for free!

Goodwill, Craigslist, and second hand stores are good places to look. You can usually pick them up from $20-$100 depending on the make and model. There are always decent ones on EBay but shipping is usually the killer.

Here are some photos of several things I made with my Kenmore 158 series (1968 model). As you can see you can do very lightweight, thin material to very heavy stuff.

NOTE: I have found having zig zag stitch capability is NOT necessary for DIY gear making. All you need is forward/reverse, stitch length adjustment, and good speed control.

EDIT: IMPORTANT!!!!!! You need to make sure the machine can handle a thicker industrial thread and that you can find needles to handle the thread as well. Remember, if you're making a saddle, THIS THING IS HOLDING YOUR ASS 20 - 30 FEET OFF OF THE GROUND!!! MAKE SURE YOU ARE USING GOOD QUALITY THREAD/MATERIALS AND YOU HAVE COMPLETE CONFIDENCE IN YOUR SKILLS!

HERE'S THE THREAD I USE FOR MY HEAVY DUTY GEAR:
http://www.rockywoods.com/Gutermann-TERA-40-Polyester-Thread

HERE'S WHAT I USE FOR BASICALLY EVERYTHING ELSE:
https://www.wawak.com/Gutermann-Mar...hread-Tex-40-765-yds?quantity=1&custcol28=685

HERE'S A GREAT NEEDLE TYPE/SIZE CHART: https://www.schmetzneedles.com/learning/pdf/schmetz-needle-chart.pdf

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I'm actually watching for the right deal for sewing machine number 2. I have a 70's kenmore that does ok...but I would like something with a little more power for thicker materials. I have been trying to figure out what I want as well, and I think I've settled on trying to find a 1950's Singer Model 15 clone. Reasons: straight stitch only, can be found cheap, simple, easy to service, strong solid machines. They can be identified by the thread tension knob being on the side instead of the front.

I would have one already if I hadn't settled on a budget of $30. Sometimes my patience and being a tight wad really conflict!

Here is a link to a website that has a ton of info on them: https://www.quiltingboard.com/pictures-f5/will-real-15-clone-please-stand-up-t164361.html
 
I co-sign everything @ckossuth said, except he's way better at it than I am.

I have a 1975 Kenmore "158.19470" machine that was given to my mother, who passed it to my wife - and for years we had no idea what it was, nor ever even looked at it. When I very recently started working on my own gear, I found out it's an all-metal Japanese machine that's quite capable of going through 2 layers of thick webbing + 2 layers of cordura without breaking a sweat - as long as you stick to straight stiches, rather wide width, and use sharp 110/18 needles.

I had a quick look on my local craigslist for something similar - $60. Not bad at all. No need to go looking for an "industrial" machine - these old "158" series are capable.

The biggest thing to do is practice. You'll probably find a bunch of youtube videos for how to thread it and use it... but it takes some getting-to-know it before I could make a straight tidy looking stitch... and most of the time I can't keep it consistent yet, but I get better every time.

Now my only problem is that I ran out of thread and am waiting for more to arrive.
 
ckossuth said:
EDIT: IMPORTANT!!!!!! You need to make sure the machine can handle a thicker industrial thread and that you can find needles to handle the thread as well.
Click to expand...

I've been checking out the Guterman thread and plan to order some in the near future. Do you have a specific or preferred needle you use with the TERA 40? Or just sharp and the correct size?? I have plans for a custom pack and have been making a list of items needed. Thanks!
 
skell said:
I've been checking out the Guterman thread and plan to order some in the near future. Do you have a specific or preferred needle you use with the TERA 40? Or just sharp and the correct size?? I have plans for a custom pack and have been making a list of items needed. Thanks!
Click to expand...

Here's the specs for the Tera 40: (Suggested needle size: Metric 90-110, Singer 14-18). Most of your home machines will use the standard Singer sizing. I use Groz-Beckert or Organ needles for my Juki machine. I used Schmetz most of the time in my Kenmore with great results. Ebay has great deals on bulk buys. Schmetz makes good needles too that can be found at Wal Mart. I just added a needle size chart above with the other links.
 
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Another thing regarding needles... A needle will usually always feel sharp to the touch but may actually be very dull. If you're sewing along and you start to here a "popping" sound everytime the needle goes through the fabric, the needle is dull. From there it's only a matter of time until it starts trying to go into the material at weird angles (this is especially true with thick layers of webbing and cordura). That's when you start snapping needles and running into problems.
 
g2outdoors said:
@ckossuth you shouldn't even be allowed to post on this thread. Your skills are on another level. I'm jealous.
Click to expand...
I'm nearing completion of my own - and it'll be the poster-child for "So ckossuth is way up there... and down here's what the average idiot can do." :)

I ran out of thread, but I have the seat, main webbing and half the lineman's belt webbing/molle looping done. I'm waiting on thread to finish the other half of the lineman's connection, waist belt/buckles (I have ISC buckles coming, too), and leg buckles. Depending on delivery times and work trip schedules, I might finish in the next week or so.
 
If you are looking for a new Cadillac of sewing machines check out Sail Right sewing machines. My brother has one.
 
JBDaddy said:
I'm nearing completion of my own - and it'll be the poster-child for "So ckossuth is way up there... and down here's what the average idiot can do." :)

I ran out of thread, but I have the seat, main webbing and half the lineman's belt webbing/molle looping done. I'm waiting on thread to finish the other half of the lineman's connection, waist belt/buckles (I have ISC buckles coming, too), and leg buckles. Depending on delivery times and work trip schedules, I might finish in the next week or so.
Click to expand...

Don't worry about how it looks. That will get better with experience. Can't wait to see it!
 
bigjoe said:
If you are looking for a new Cadillac of sewing machines check out Sail Right sewing machines. My brother has one.
Click to expand...

I have a Sailrite clone. They are awesome for extremely heavy duty projects but are not user friendly for most DIY stuff. The speed control is terrible without doing costly upgrades. Hard to get consistent, good looking stitches too. They will go through about anything though.
 
I have a Sail Rite I bought to do the enclosure on my boat. It's a great machine...well it's the only one I ever used:flushed:
I agree with the "no zig zag" needed, just go back and forth.
I used polyester thread tex30 and 70. I think I am good for webbing and stuff with the 70.
 
My brother also did the enclosure for his boat and gear bags etc with his
 
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