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Sewing Resources and Information

Lots of options out there. If you are looking to pick up a machine on the cheap, I would look for an early 60's or older Kenmore. Or a Singer 15 clone. Or pre-60's Singer. I see Singer 15 clones around here all the time for $30 and under in perfect condition. One thing to think about is if you want to be able to zigzag stitch. Many of the mentioned machines are straight stitch only. The Kenmore machines are good and able to zigzag. The one I have looks new and put me out $30. I had to do some work to get it to zigzag (was gummed up), but its a great machine.

Here's some info on the clones if you are wondering what I'm talking about...
https://www.quiltingroomwithmel.com/2017/01/singer-15-clone-vintage-sewing-machines.html?m=1

https://www.quiltingboard.com/pictures-f5/will-real-15-clone-please-stand-up-t164361.html

What's the big deal with the zig zag stictch?
 
What's the big deal with the zig zag stictch?
I don't consider it a big deal either way. Since picking up my Singer 201 (straight stitch only), I have used a zigzag stitch 1 time. And it was used to make a fleece neck gaiter for my son.

A zigzag allows the fabric to stretch. So if you are looking to make stuff out of stretchy material or want some give in your stitching it may be a benefit. Or if you are wanting to try to diy a bar tack.

Most of your stitching would likely be a straight stitch. I've made multiple saddles, aiders, knee pad, and some other odds and ends without using a single zigzag stitch.
 
Get a straight stitch machine for the stuff we do. A Crescent wrench can losen a bolt but and appropriate sized box wrench is better for the job in the overwhelming majority of the time.


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Get a straight stitch machine for the stuff we do. A Crescent wrench can losen a bolt but and appropriate sized box wrench is better for the job in the overwhelming majority of the time.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
What are you using currently? I saw you sold a 15 clone.
 
I don't consider it a big deal either way. Since picking up my Singer 201 (straight stitch only), I have used a zigzag stitch 1 time. And it was used to make a fleece neck gaiter for my son.

A zigzag allows the fabric to stretch. So if you are looking to make stuff out of stretchy material or want some give in your stitching it may be a benefit. Or if you are wanting to try to diy a bar tack.

Most of your stitching would likely be a straight stitch. I've made multiple saddles, aiders, knee pad, and some other odds and ends without using a single zigzag stitch.

I was just curious. I have a Singer 401a that does multiple stitches, I just didn't know all the benefits of the zigzag stitch. Thanks for the insight.
 
I am seeing many different needle point types. Is there a recommended point for nylon and poly webbing?
 
With the discussions on sewing (or thread injecting if you prefer), I think it may be beneficial to those interested if we had a single resource thread for sewing information. I know a number of the little things I’ve picked up along the way are scattered throughout the forum. Please, if you have tips or resources which may be useful to those interested in sewing DIY gear, post them here!

Some helpful tidbits copy and pasted from other threads courtesy of @ckossuth:

- IMPORTANT!!!!!! You need to make sure the machine can handle a thicker industrial thread and that you can find needles to handle the thread as well. Remember, if you're making a saddle, THIS THING IS HOLDING YOUR ASS 20 - 30 FEET OFF OF THE GROUND!!! MAKE SURE YOU ARE USING GOOD QUALITY THREAD/MATERIALS AND YOU HAVE COMPLETE CONFIDENCE IN YOUR SKILLS!

- Bobbin tension adjustment: Remember, we are not making dainty little dresses. We are making Man Gear! A seamstress will set their bobbin tension to where when holding the thread and letting the bobbin and cradle hang, it will very slowly start to fall. This is a good starting point (even for us). My personal preference (and this works on all 4 of my machines) is to tighten it to where when I'm holding the thread with the full bobbin in the cradle, I have to give the thread a little twitch to get the bobbin to start falling, and it only falls 6-8 inches before stopping again. Done. Set it and forget it. It's just one little screw. A little turn does go along way though.



This person almost has it right. The thread should be going into the slot in the bobbin cradle and then up under the tension spring. This is to show how you should let the fully loaded bobbin and cradle hang when adjusting the tension.


Here is a great diagram.


Advice for buying a sewing machine: find a decent used machine with metal gears (many machines from the 50’s and 60’s fit this bill). Another option...I know @g2outdoors has had good luck with his newer singer heavy duty. I don't recall which model thread injector it is. I'm sure if you ask, he'd be glad to fill that piece in.

I am no sewing expert. And I will not pretend to have much for answers. But I do tend to go overkill on research.
----------------
For anyone searching/shopping for an older all metal sewing machine...

I stumbled across a great blog series on how to identify models of older Singer sewing machines from terrible online photos (which are standard on craigslist). If you decide on a particular model, this 5 part series is extremely helpful.

A Visual Guide to Identifying Singers from Crappy Craigslist Photos, Part 1
http://vssmb.blogspot.com/2011/07/visual-guide-to-identifying-singers.html

Helpful websites I have found:

www.thethreadexchange.com

Information on thread and needles. Also has definitions for terminology which can be very useful. If you click on a category (needles, polyester thread, etc) there is an information are with “buying guides.” These are very helpful in decoding what means what.

www.diygearsupply.com

The website has a section of DIY guides. There is a sewing tips page that shows different seams. There are also a number of patterns for outdoor gear that may help with planning your own project.

https://sewsweetness.com/2014/11/tutorial-shoulder-pad-straps.html

Tutorial on how to make pads for bag straps. For example…the Wild Edge bag really needs one of these if you are going to carry it for any length of time by its strap.

https://www.schmetzneedles.com/learning/pdf/schmetz-needle-chart.pdf

Posted by @ckossuth in another thread. Good reference for type/size needle.

Books

On Rope. This book contains a great deal of information on ropes and knots. There is also a small section on sewing webbing and the differing strengths of stitch patterns.
Again thank u for this subject... keep coming back here since I just made a purchase of the sewing machine... looking forward to having fun with it.
 
I am seeing many different needle point types. Is there a recommended point for nylon and poly webbing?

For webbing, the biggest consideration from my research is the point. You want to make sure the point is round and not sharp (may still feel sharp to your finger). This way the needle pushes the threads apart and does not cut them (reducing strength of webbing). I generally use a universal needle or a topstitch needle. I've had good luck with the Schmetz Universal 120/19 with the TERA 40 thread. I've also had good luck with the Superior Topstitch needles. I know others around here have had good luck with "jeans" needles. Lots of choices!

Again thank u for this subject... keep coming back here since I just made a purchase of the sewing machine... looking forward to having fun with it.

I'm glad people are finding it beneficial. Have fun with the new machine! Once you get going, you'll really start to look at the possibilities for custom gear!
 
Thanks Skell
I just picked up a Singer 111W151 which looks like the perfect machine for this stuff. I am not sure which I will enjoy more: Fitting out the machine or making my own gear. I am betting it will be a draw.
 
Thanks Skell
I just picked up a Singer 111W151 which looks like the perfect machine for this stuff. I am not sure which I will enjoy more: Fitting out the machine or making my own gear. I am betting it will be a draw.
Dude, where did you get that thing. Hope it is in great condtion, you could upgrade the motor to a servo and have a really nice rig there.
 
Thanks Skell
I just picked up a Singer 111W151 which looks like the perfect machine for this stuff. I am not sure which I will enjoy more: Fitting out the machine or making my own gear. I am betting it will be a draw.

Nice get! I missed one of those last summer (I didn't know what I was looking at). It was listed for $100 and looked perfect. Haven't seen a deal anywhere close to that since...
 
I lucked out. It was on ebay but located 15 miles from my home so shipping was not an issue. $200 with table, bobbin winder, thread stand, knee lift for the foot and the original clutch motor. I need to replace that monster with a servo. The original clutch motors were single speed only and oh my was that fast for stitching 1" webbing! The servos have variable speed and are very reasonable ($100 and on its way). It seems to work well and even the thread tension seems properly adjusted.

I am sure I will screw it up somehow but that is half the fun.
 
What is a good used price for a Juki 8700? I have one on craigslist nearby for $775. I see it is on sale here though for $699. https://www.sewingmachinesplus.com/sewing-machines-industrial-juki-ddl8700.php. It may not be an apple to apple comparison though.
buy an 8700-H, $775 is to much for a used 8700. I gave less than that for a brand new 8700-H shipped to my house. Only way I would buy that 8700 is if they would come off about $200. show em what you can buy a new one for. Let me know which one you go with, there is misleading needle information I need to share with you if you go with the H.
 
Thanks for the reply. Just talked with the wife and she must be feeling guilty about her hair cut cost as she told me to go ahead. I was also looking at the Sailrite LSZ-1. I'm eventually going to want to try and build a backpack and frame. Just wondering if the Sailrite would be the better purchase. Or would the 8700-H be enough to get through the materials?

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Thanks for the reply. Just talked with the wife and she must be feeling guilty about her hair cut cost as she told me to go ahead. I was also looking at the Sailrite LSZ-1. I'm eventually going to want to try and build a backpack and frame. Just wondering if the Sailrite would be the better purchase. Or would the 8700-H be enough to get through the materials?

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk

My 8700 h will punch 1/8 HDPE like a champ
 
Thanks!!! I think the 8700h would give me a little bit more versatility as well.

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Going to order the 8700h. My offer on the 8700 wasn't accepted.

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Going to order the 8700h. My offer on the 8700 wasn't accepted.

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk
You won't be disappointed. Hit me up when it arrives, I'm serious about the needle thing. Don't order any extras till it arrives and you and I chat.
 
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