• The SH Membership has gone live. Only SH Members have access to post in the classifieds. All members can view the classifieds. Starting in 2020 only SH Members will be admitted to the annual hunting contest. Current members will need to follow these steps to upgrade: 1. Click on your username 2. Click on Account upgrades 3. Choose SH Member and purchase.
  • We've been working hard the past few weeks to come up with some big changes to our vendor policies to meet the changing needs of our community. Please see the new vendor rules here: Vendor Access Area Rules

Soft shackles?

Red Beard said:
I'd be careful about trying this with a Ropeman. The carabiner doesn't only keep the side plates in place. It is also the hard piece that acts as a backstop for the spring loaded teeth to press against. Using a soft shackle in place of a Ropeman may not provide the rigidity required for proper grip.
Click to expand...

Will test it out this weekend and see how (or if) it works.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
The ropeman works by pinching rope between its spring-loaded teeth and the carabiner you run through the holes. Replace that carabiner with a piece of rope (i.e. soft shackle) and there's no pinch.
 
bj139 said:
The RM2 has teeth which dig into the rope so it would probably work. The RM1 has no sharp teeth, only dull teeth. This might not work.
Click to expand...

But the teeth don’t contact the amsteel, just like the teeth don’t contact the caribiner.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
SemperFlightMedic said:
But the teeth don’t contact the amsteel, just like the teeth don’t contact the caribiner.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
No sharp teeth on RM1 to dig into rope sheath. Carabiner may be necessary for back support. RM2 angled teeth that should dig in even without firm backing.
1578600264729.png
1578600405839.png
 
JBDaddy said:
The ropeman works by pinching rope between its spring-loaded teeth and the carabiner you run through the holes. Replace that carabiner with a piece of rope (i.e. soft shackle) and there's no pinch.
Click to expand...

The teeth should push the tether firmly against the back of the side plates/amsteel and hold.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Red Beard said:
We're all speculating at this point. Can't wait until you get home so you can test and report out! :)
Click to expand...

Hahahaha. Yeah, I’m anxious too. Wanna try out the prussik on the bridge too. Will have to try 1/4” amsteel Prussik, since I don’t have 3/16” on hand yet b


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
SemperFlightMedic said:
Hahahaha. Yeah, I’m anxious too. Wanna try out the prussik on the bridge too. Will have to try 1/4” amsteel Prussik, since I don’t have 3/16” on hand yet b


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
The Utilibridge is interesting. With the full length bury it is larger in diameter.
 
bj139 said:
The Utilibridge is interesting. With the full length bury it is larger in diameter.
Click to expand...

Yeah, it’s got some wheels turning in my head. I’ll probably forget by the time I get home in the morning, though. Lol.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I’ll chime in here. I have made hundreds and hundreds of soft shackles over the last 10 years or so.
b0785d5567fa715fe456834a7876b4bd.jpg


My two hobbies are hunting and hammock camping. I use soft shackles for both endeavors. There are many, uses for soft shackles. I’m not crazy about them in situations where there will be rope-on-rope or rope-on-webbing due to friction concerns already mentioned here. The other real world negative is that they are harder to manipulate than a carabiner with cold or gloved hands.

I will say that I have NEVER had one come undone or break. Under any circumstance. Yes, I have used them on my saddle. About 5 years ago maybe I was using a Kong Duck on my Lineman’s Belt and connecting the Duck to my right side bridge loop with a 1/8” Amsteel soft shackle. My actual LB was 8mm rope from an old Lone Wolf harness. It works great, but I decided I didn’t trust the Duck when my rope got wet and slimy.

I will also add that I make my shackles similar to TacBlades improved soft shackle video, but my two loops are NOT locked Brummell. Rather, I make my loops as eye splices with adequate bury lengths. These are going to be tied in to the button knob, therefore there is no chance that the bury could ever slip. I think these would actually be stronger than TacBlades if you eliminated the “noose”, which is the weakest spot in a shackle.

I would be happy to demonstrate my method at Saddlepalooza if anyone is interested. Just bring your own Amsteel if you want me to make one. I will also have some bombass hammock gear there.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
Not knowing much about soft shackles at this point, is there a different term for the different styles? The one I made, for example, the shackle is buried in itself and opens up to “choke” the knot.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top