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Srt and being at height

jicand

New Member
Joined
May 19, 2019
Messages
23
Complete saddle noob here, I’m actually ordering my first saddle when I get paid next week (Treehopper Transformer). Researching climbing methods, I think I’ve settled on srt to get to hunting height.

Question is, when you guys get to your desired height do you make a secondary attachment to the tree or just your climbing rope? I’ve been watching videos on it, but nobody goes over that part, it’s all setup climb repel.
 
I use a separate regular tether at height.

My attachment point for SRT is usually well above my desired hunting position in the tree and the rope I use for climbing nearly completely vertical. As a result, I prefer a separate tether.

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Same as what @sweats said. My climbing rope break-over point, either canopy anchor or turn when base anchor, is well above my head when at height. In order to get a better angle on my bridge and make it more controllable when moving around the tree, I tether in using a regular tether. I disconnect from my climbing rope, coil up the standing end and store in on my tree strap.
 
more times than not, I'll use a separate tether at height for a few reasons--one is what the fellas above said--the SRT line may be quite a bit higher or not optimal for positioning--catching a limb or notch may be opposite of where I want to set up or where the tree is leaning a bit. I'm on a beal birdie for progress capture and I don't trust it fully yet so rather than have a number of redundancies, I just prefer a separate tether. I can also come down way smoother on a figure 8 than the birdie, so that allows for an easier transition to rappel. That said, if my climbing line is in the 'right' spot, I'll back up the birdie and hang there without a tether at height.

A few quick things I learned this year as a rookie SRT'er: Make sure you have your retrieval rope attached, particularly if your limb/notch/canopy height is going to be higher than your tether height. otherwise you're climbing up to attach it. Not the end of the world but easier before than after. I put a loop on the line right behind the knot/delta link and haven't (yet) had a problem getting my line loose and down easy.

Presets are amazing to have. You can be hunting in about 10 minutes.

If you're going to be using a throw bag, it's worth having a back up one and really worth having any of the slick lines for your throw bag. I used the one that came with mine from amazon for a bit and it was great, until it got a bit wet and didn't slide over bark very well.

You can use your throw line in lots of creative ways to get your climbing line set. I use 40 feet of climbing line and have needed to use the throw line a few times since I was hooking branches or notches probably at or about 50'.

Plan on a little frustration from time to time. SRT is easy as pie in the practice yard--takes a bit of practice to set up efficiently, quietly, and in the dark.
I learned it's much better to pull the tag end up and over rather than the delta link and knot end the hard way and when I realized it was a total 'duh' moment.

This coming season I'm planning to have SRT and a one stick in my kit. Figure that'll cover all the bases and I'm putting out presets as I scout this winter and summer.
 
Snip

A few quick things I learned this year as a rookie SRT'er: Make sure you have your retrieval rope attached, particularly if your limb/notch/canopy height is going to be higher than your tether height. otherwise you're climbing up to attach it. Not the end of the world but easier before than after. I put a loop on the line right behind the knot/delta link and haven't (yet) had a problem getting my line loose and down easy. This is called the Climb of Shame. If you haven't done this several times while practicing or hunting, you're lying.

Snip

If you're going to be using a throw bag, it's worth having a back up one and really worth having any of the slick lines for your throw bag. I used the one that came with mine from amazon for a bit and it was great, until it got a bit wet and didn't slide over bark very well. I carry just over 100' of dynaglide and a 14oz. (I think) throwball in a molle flashlight pouch which stays on my pack. That way, I'm not stuck with presets if I like a different spot better.

You can use your throw line in lots of creative ways to get your climbing line set. I use 40 feet of climbing line and have needed to use the throw line a few times since I was hooking branches or notches probably at or about 50'. I carried 50' this year and am going to 100' of C-IV next year. The reason being non-preset trees and the reason you mention. With 100' and assuming the line turns over a substantial limb, a base anchor solves going through multiple, smaller limbs making for a quicker and easier setup.

Plan on a little frustration from time to time. SRT is easy as pie in the practice yard--takes a bit of practice to set up efficiently, quietly, and in the dark.
I learned it's much better to pull the tag end up and over rather than the delta link and knot end the hard way and when I realized it was a total 'duh' moment. Exactly. The link or rigging ring should be the last thing that gets pulled up if using a canopy anchor.

Snip
 
Thanks for the replies, very informative and gave me a bit to think about
 
Here's my process and am methodical about it.
1. set climbing rope, hang platform off of saddle and connect bow to tag end of climbing rope
2. climb until at platform height, set platform
3. continue climb until standing on platform
4. attach "regular" tether to tree and connect to bridge
5. take weight off of climbing rope, put weight on tether and disconnect from climbing rope
6. set tree strap
7. pull up bow and hang from tree strap
8. coil climbing rope and hang from tree strap
9. hang pack from tree strap

To climb down, I do the reverse. In the end, it less important as to your process than it is to retentively repeat the process every time. That way, the muscle memory will help tell you if you've done something different.

That being said, always have and practice a plan B. I've rappelled down to get something and left my ascender up in the tree. I've setup in the dark only to realize once sun-up that I was in the middle of thick branches. Knowing how to overcome these problems beforehand makes sure they aren't problems when hunting.
 
I actually do things a little differently here... I use my main climbing line as my tether, but it is typically well above hunting height and doesn't normally work well as a tether (almost vertical/length/etc.). I use my normal (8.5') tether or lineman's belt as a redirect. Once at height, I will setup my short tether, as per normal procedure at the height I want, shorten it, and then run my climbing line through its carabiner. You can adjust angles, compensate for gravity/lean, etc. just by where/how you locate your short/standard tether (or lineman's belt). I'm never disconnected at any point from my climbing line.
 
To "quote" @MNFarmHunter

Here's my process and I (also) am methodical about it (assuming canopy anchor, not basal anchor; although the only difference is that my retrieval rope would be connected to my saddle for the sole purpose of my bow/gear haul line):
1. set climbing rope and retrieval rope as one unit (also my bow/gear haul line)
2. hang platform off rear of saddle
3. slip my two additional ROS steps and OCB strap over one arm and head
4. connect bow to tag end of retrieval rope
5. climb until at platform height
6. set platform and ROS
7. continue climb until supported by platform/ROS at hunting height
8. attach "regular" tether to tree as a redirect and connect to climbing line, adjust as necessary
9. set gear strap
10. hang pack from gear strap (I usually climb with my pack on)
11. pull up bow and hang from gear strap
12. coil climbing rope (and bow rope) and hang from gear strap or tuck into pack

If I'm feeling especially lucky, or there's deer around, I'll reverse order of steps 10 and 11.
 
I actually do things a little differently here... I use my main climbing line as my tether, but it is typically well above hunting height and doesn't normally work well as a tether (almost vertical/length/etc.). I use my normal (8.5') tether or lineman's belt as a redirect. Once at height, I will setup my short tether, as per normal procedure at the height I want, shorten it, and then run my climbing line through its carabiner. You can adjust angles, compensate for gravity/lean, etc. just by where/how you locate your short/standard tether (or lineman's belt). I'm never disconnected at any point from my climbing line.
Interesting. May give that a shot next time I’m playing in the trees to se how it works. Sounds slick
 
I actually do things a little differently here... I use my main climbing line as my tether, but it is typically well above hunting height and doesn't normally work well as a tether (almost vertical/length/etc.). I use my normal (8.5') tether or lineman's belt as a redirect. Once at height, I will setup my short tether, as per normal procedure at the height I want, shorten it, and then run my climbing line through its carabiner. You can adjust angles, compensate for gravity/lean, etc. just by where/how you locate your short/standard tether (or lineman's belt). I'm never disconnected at any point from my climbing line.
That's interesting.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
 
I actually do things a little differently here... I use my main climbing line as my tether, but it is typically well above hunting height and doesn't normally work well as a tether (almost vertical/length/etc.). I use my normal (8.5') tether or lineman's belt as a redirect. Once at height, I will setup my short tether, as per normal procedure at the height I want, shorten it, and then run my climbing line through its carabiner. You can adjust angles, compensate for gravity/lean, etc. just by where/how you locate your short/standard tether (or lineman's belt). I'm never disconnected at any point from my climbing line.
2 schools of thought on this, both with their merits.

By staying attached to your main (climbing) line, you eliminate the risk of disconnecting the wrong system. The counterpoint being it adds complexity to the system overall. In the end, it's all about risk analysis. I find the greater complexity of the 2-tether system a greater risk than doing a switch-over. There is, however, a valid argument about disconnect from your main line.

There are ways to mitigate the switch-over risk such as color coding specific equipment or using different styles of carabiners for different systems for tactile purposes.
 
2 schools of thought on this, both with their merits.

By staying attached to your main (climbing) line, you eliminate the risk of disconnecting the wrong system. The counterpoint being it adds complexity to the system overall. In the end, it's all about risk analysis. I find the greater complexity of the 2-tether system a greater risk than doing a switch-over. There is, however, a valid argument about disconnect from your main line.

There are ways to mitigate the switch-over risk such as color coding specific equipment or using different styles of carabiners for different systems for tactile purposes.

My rationale is that even though the final hunting system setup becomes slightly more complex, it is offset by the fact that the additional complexity is not life support! As always, this is a personal preference. I have used both ways, and I have come to prefer this way. I will also say that your saddle will dictate comfort (as you know!) dependent on the tether angles. I am currently using a custom bridge Cruzr XC and I can comfortably hunt from a 20' tether lol, but I absolutely dislike the "floating" instability (for shooting) that a long tether introduces into the setup!

To those of you, with this possible question: I am never directly connected to the secondary "short" tether, I'm just using it to change the angle on my main climbing line.
 
I always use a separate tether once I get to hunting height. I don’t like having the longer rope swinging around or attached to my saddle. And like was said before, the angle is better on a tether placed closer to head height or slightly higher/lower depending on the tree
 
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