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SRT & Hitch Climbing Questions

K

K.D.P

Well-Known Member
SH Member
Joined
Sep 17, 2020
Messages
1,119
I’m working on dialing in a JRB setup using the LHA hitch and Garda footloop, and I’ve got a couple questions about my anchor setup.

I’m wanting to preset paracord loops in the tree and then use my rappel rope to cinch/girth hitch into those loops once I get it up there.

Question 1:
What knot would you recommend tying on the end of my rappel rope so it interfaces cleanly with those preset loops and cinches down securely on the limb/tree?

Question 2:
I’ll also be using a “Maverick” pole for setting anchors when needed. I plan to use a Bloodgood hitch when doing that. Has anyone found a good way to run the same rope for both setups?

Any suggestions or setups that have worked well for you?

Appreciate any help.
 
K.D.P said:
I’m working on dialing in a JRB setup using the LHA hitch and Garda footloop, and I’ve got a couple questions about my anchor setup.

I’m wanting to preset paracord loops in the tree and then use my rappel rope to cinch/girth hitch into those loops once I get it up there.

Question 1:
What knot would you recommend tying on the end of my rappel rope so it interfaces cleanly with those preset loops and cinches down securely on the limb/tree?

Question 2:
I’ll also be using a “Maverick” pole for setting anchors when needed. I plan to use a Bloodgood hitch when doing that. Has anyone found a good way to run the same rope for both setups?

Any suggestions or setups that have worked well for you?

Appreciate any help.
Click to expand...
I assume by saying you are using a rappel rope, that you are using a 40’ rope?

I love the Bloodgood for a trunk anchor Hitch Climbing. I have a dedicated 40’ system just for hitch climbing. If I have to clear branches I tie a Maverick at the top.

Before I rattle off a bunch of stuff, what rope are you using and how long is it?
 
TheWaypoint said:
I assume by saying you are using a rappel rope, that you are using a 40’ rope?

I love the Bloodgood for a trunk anchor Hitch Climbing. I have a dedicated 40’ system just for hitch climbing. If I have to clear branches I tie a Maverick at the top.

Before I rattle off a bunch of stuff, what rope are you using and how long is it?
Click to expand...
It is HTP 9mm and about 40ft. I’ve been where a guy using the preset to get hit rope over the limb/tree and he ties a bloodgood at the ground and works it up the tree. I thought about just doing this. But it would limit me to on being able to get around 17ish feet off the ground if my rope is 40ft due to me having to reach both ends to tie the bloodgood. Here is that video.

And this guy using his pole to get the rope over limbs. Then pulls it down to be able to
Cinch it.

If I could use the pole instead of the paracord I’d be okay with that.
 
I have personally never used a bloodgood hitch the way the gentleman in the first video has but that’s cool, thanks for sharing.

This is John’s method that I am confident with.


However, I also use 80’ of rope for that system. You would have to have a branch less than 20’ to attach it.

If you can swing it, I would encourage 60’ of rope. Ape Canyon Outfitters have a new Camo Ghille rope coming out soon and I guess it is going to be super strong, flexible and affordable. Then you can do either method or make a three hitch system that will allow you to do anything.

If you need to stick with the 40’ system, then hitch climbing is your best bet. Sorry that is not more helpful.
 
Last edited:
TheWaypoint said:
I have personally never used a bloodgood hitch the way the gentleman in the first video has but that’s cool, thanks for sharing.

This is John’s method that I am confident with.


However, I also use 80’ of rope for that system. You would have to have a branch less than 20’ to attach it.

If you can swing it, I would encourage 60’ of rope. Ape Canyon Outfitters have a new Camo Ghille rope coming out soon and I guess it is going to be super strong, flexible and affordable. Then you can do either method or make a three hitch system that will allow you to do anything.

If you need to stick with the 40’ system, then hitch climbing is your best bet. Sorry that is not more helpful.
Click to expand...
So with DSRT. I could get 60ft of rope, 3 LHA. I could do SRT if needed you the DSRT would allow me to climb just looping the rope over the limb correct?
 
K.D.P said:
So with DSRT. I could get 60ft of rope, 3 LHA. I could do SRT if needed you the DSRT would allow me to climb just looping the rope over the limb correct?
Click to expand...
Yeah. John’s DSRT required no knot tying or rigging other than pulling the rope over a branch and clipping into your longhorn hitches.

We are ultimately always limited by the length of our ropes. However, I honestly think my 80’ system could be a 60’ and cover 98% of hunting scenarios I have encountered.
 
K.D.P said:
It is HTP 9mm and about 40ft. I’ve been where a guy using the preset to get hit rope over the limb/tree and he ties a bloodgood at the ground and works it up the tree. I thought about just doing this. But it would limit me to on being able to get around 17ish feet off the ground if my rope is 40ft due to me having to reach both ends to tie the bloodgood. Here is that video.

And this guy using his pole to get the rope over limbs. Then pulls it down to be able to
Cinch it.

If I could use the pole instead of the paracord I’d be okay with that.
Click to expand...
I have a pair of 38' HTP 9mm mainline setups with a Bloodgood on one end and pre-tied Longhorn Agile as my ascending friction hitch (Munter/carabiner for rappeling). I use a DIY 10' Maverick pole to set the Bloodgood as high as desired and ascend using a DIY Garda loop. Using the Maverick pole to loop the Bloodgood over a limb is a technique I use frequently for practice climbing, as our frontyard trees are sycamores with a host of branches.

As in the video, I cannot go as high as I prefer to hunt in practice mode with a 'shorter' mainline, but it works to get in reps and muscle memory. I simply pull the LHA hitch down towards the opposite end to get it out of the way, loop the unconnected Bloodgood over a limb, hook the carabiner with the pole and pull it down in reach. Then complete the Bloodgood connection with carabiner, pull it up by hand, snug and attach the Garda and friendship hitch. I ascend to a foot or so from the base on the branch, tie a Munter, remove the Garda and rappel down while tending the LHA with my right hand.

I've not seen the preset paracord used in conjunction with a Bloodgood, but it apparently works according to the video. But I use the JRB Garda/Maverick approach for mobile rather than preset situations. If I am hunting smaller private land spots, I typically know the lay of the land and preset sticks and just bring my platform out each hunt. If you wanted to hunt from the limb attached Bloodgood, you wouldn't need more than 40' of rope unless you want to hunt really high. I can reach a 17-18' branch. loop it over as described above and pull it down to head height. An 18' branch is measured from the ground, so you have 5-6' of extra rope at that point and then pull all the slack oiut setting the Bloodgood at the base of the branch. Rappelling down, there is double the length on the ground, then use a haul line on the tail to break the Bloodgood and pull it down.
 
Black Titan said:
See if this helps. Start at around 5 minutes.


No need to carry 60ft of rope this way.

BT
Click to expand...
After watching the NY "half line" video a couple times, my initial impression was 'threading' the mainline with the preset paracord was pretty nifty. But again, that requires going in ahead of time, using a toss ball and hoping someone on public doesn't find and mess with the paracord you left.

I much prefer the JRB friction hitch approach without the mechanical devices like the Madrock and Trango...which I have tried (and noticed they offer for sale). JRB offers DIY options and doesn't really care where you get your gear as long as you are safe. Some on this site seem to have an issue with John, but having used a number of his techniques, they plain work and he continually updates/upgrades. There are clearly a lot of cross-over in techniques and I don't know who claims to be the originator? For me, it simply distills down to which source you find most workable for your personal approach.
 
Alaska at Heart said:
After watching the NY "half line" video a couple times, my initial impression was 'threading' the mainline with the preset paracord was pretty nifty. But again, that requires going in ahead of time, using a toss ball and hoping someone on public doesn't find and mess with the paracord you left.

I much prefer the JRB friction hitch approach without the mechanical devices like the Madrock and Trango...which I have tried (and noticed they offer for sale). JRB offers DIY options and doesn't really care where you get your gear as long as you are safe. Some on this site seem to have an issue with John, but having used a number of his techniques, they plain work and he continually updates/upgrades. There are clearly a lot of cross-over in techniques and I don't know who claims to be the originator? For me, it simply distills down to which source you find most workable for your personal approach.
Click to expand...

I fully agree with you, John's stuff just works. I appreciate that he can behave like someone living in 2026 and post clear videos showing what he's tying and has the ability to clearly articulate how, what and why. If he re-names knots that are poorly drawn or pictured in some old timey book of knots, I'll never know nor care. He deserves to name it because he's taking the time to show it in a far superior way than the originator.
 
Tail_Hunter said:
I fully agree with you, John's stuff just works. I appreciate that he can behave like someone living in 2026 and post clear videos showing what he's tying and has the ability to clearly articulate how, what and why. If he re-names knots that are poorly drawn or pictured in some old timey book of knots, I'll never know nor care. He deserves to name it because he's taking the time to show it in a far superior way than the originator.
Click to expand...
Taking credit for someone else's work is never okay, under any circumstances.
 
Horn said:
Taking credit for someone else's work is never okay, under any circumstances.
Click to expand...
Can you cite some actual examples of this?

In a recent video segment introducing the 'Kraken' hitch, JRB mentions that if anyone recognizes this as a previous hitch with another name...to please leave a comment. But he was calling it that until another prior name was identified. That didn't sound to me like some glory hound.

With the 'Bloodgood' hitch, he starts with a Cowboy Bowline hitch, which is giving credit to the original name. Then he adds the attachment method with a carabiner and named the end form after a friend. I use that hitch and call it by that name because it is where it originated for me. If John is a bit too theatrical for your personal tastes, that is fine and don't use his techniques. But some seem to have an axe to grind without the extra effort of providing content that is educating and expanding the realm of saddle hunting.
 
K.D.P said:
I’m working on dialing in a JRB setup using the LHA hitch and Garda footloop, and I’ve got a couple questions about my anchor setup.

I’m wanting to preset paracord loops in the tree and then use my rappel rope to cinch/girth hitch into those loops once I get it up there.

Question 1:
What knot would you recommend tying on the end of my rappel rope so it interfaces cleanly with those preset loops and cinches down securely on the limb/tree?

Question 2:
I’ll also be using a “Maverick” pole for setting anchors when needed. I plan to use a Bloodgood hitch when doing that. Has anyone found a good way to run the same rope for both setups?

Any suggestions or setups that have worked well for you?

Appreciate any help.
Click to expand...
Question 1: This is a bit hard to answer based on how it's stated, from my perspective. So, a two-part answer. One, each end of your rope needs a JRB end loop (or equal/similar, it just makes life easier). He has at least one good video on how to install it, and what to use. But you may already have that (if so, ignore). Second part, I'll echo @Coachschaller, look into the Maverick Hitch. Now there may be a pucker factor with it since it's an exploding hitch, but I've experimented with it quite a bit and it's what I use now. Benefit? No pre-knot(s) to tie. It'll consume 5-8' of rope to tie it, but you don't have to do anything in advance and it's even easy to do in the dark. However, if you're running a really short rope it might cut into your achievable height. If you don't like the Maverick, the aforementioned Bloodgood is great. Super simple to tie, even at the tree. I've also experimented with JRB's Moose Hitch on a rappel ring. It worked really good as well, and you can emulate NYSH 1/2-line system with it. A bit more involved in tying at the tree if you had to, but still, pretty simple. The Bloodgood and Moose Hitch will require you to bring it back down to you if there are branches - and IMO the Moose Hitch with the ring runs the smoothest. It is a 100x better than the Bloodgood? No, I'd say there is only a moderate difference given the tree/bark combo. But the Maverick rules.

Question 2: I have not hitch climbed so I'm not speaking from experience. But IF I did .... I'd probably just use the Bloodgood hitch. You could pre-tie them at both ends. However, as JRB has said, his last anchor at height, and before he'll rappel down, will be the Maverick. If I chose to try hitch climbing, that's what I'd go with - Bloodgood all the way up and retie it to become a Maverick to rappel down at the end of the hunt.
 
TheWaypoint said:
I have personally never used a bloodgood hitch the way the gentleman in the first video has but that’s cool, thanks for sharing.

This is John’s method that I am confident with.


However, I also use 80’ of rope for that system. You would have to have a branch less than 20’ to attach it.

If you can swing it, I would encourage 60’ of rope. Ape Canyon Outfitters have a new Camo Ghille rope coming out soon and I guess it is going to be super strong, flexible and affordable. Then you can do either method or make a three hitch system that will allow you to do anything.

If you need to stick with the 40’ system, then hitch climbing is your best bet. Sorry that is not more helpful.
Click to expand...

I rewatched the cited video of the Bloodgood hitch anchor using a paracord preset a few times and wonder if he tried simply loosening the bloodgood so it would slide up the trunk and pulling the connected hitch to desired height? Then snugging it down to serve as his rope anchor? That method might not reset the preset in the same manner, but it would remove hauling the mainline over the branch, back down, setting the Bloodgood with carabiner and then back up. Doing it in that manner would remove the advantage of the branch, but most of my JRB Garda loop climbs using the Maverick pole don't entail a branch and are plenty secure. Just 'percolating' on various options.

I ordered a throw ball kit the other day to add that to my testing gear to have more 'arrows in the quiver'.
 
Alaska at Heart said:
I rewatched the cited video of the Bloodgood hitch anchor using a paracord preset a few times and wonder if he tried simply loosening the bloodgood so it would slide up the trunk and pulling the connected hitch to desired height? Then snugging it down to serve as his rope anchor? That method might not reset the preset in the same manner, but it would remove hauling the mainline over the branch, back down, setting the Bloodgood with carabiner and then back up. Doing it in that manner would remove the advantage of the branch, but most of my JRB Garda loop climbs using the Maverick pole don't entail a branch and are plenty secure. Just 'percolating' on various options.

I ordered a throw ball kit the other day to add that to my testing gear to have more 'arrows in the quiver'.
Click to expand...
I sucked at the throw ball, I ended up building a throw-ball canon.
 
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