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The JRB Climbing Method

arm breaker

Well-Known Member
SH Member
Joined
Jan 11, 2019
Messages
635
Location
Arkansas
This is a spin off thread. @John RB posts here so I hope he will be willing to join in. He invented this method and it seems like a great way to get into a full rope climbing system without lots of extra equipment, and—as he argues—without a lot of fuss and noise. I don’t want to speak for him but obviously trying this is at your own risk and no YouTube video is a substitute for training and practice.

 
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With that said, @John RB I am wondering if you can share more on your redundant bridge and the kinds of rope/gear you have going there. Your swivel, for example, is not something I see many folks trying but I am certainly curious about it.
 
Thx man. I decided to go public with the new method in September and basically to make its evolution a public affair. That playlist will have another video on it as soon as I can get myself a cameraman. And it will show how the system wound up at end of season. Summarizing: 1. longer primary bridge for comfort meant shorter primary friction loops. 2. The redundancy, or "best friend" as I call it, is now integrated into the foot Loop Via the Garda hitch. And so we don't need a completely redundant set of friction hitches. I do keep a spare prusik loop in my saddlebag if I ever were to need it for itself rescue, a feature that most don't think about. I also plan to do a video on the topic of self rescue. I'm just trying to encourage people to think about Murphy's Law and how they would survive and get out of a situation, no matter how they get in a tree.

As for the redundant bridge, I am actually gonna redo mine, and so how about I publish a video for you about how I make that? I can probably do that this weekend.
 
That sounds great. I would honestly love a rundown of the relevant gear including mg type of rope and hitch cord along with that swivel.

And for this part:
I'm just trying to encourage people to think about Murphy's Law and how they would survive and get out of a situation, no matter how they get in a tree.

I think it will be greatly appreciated around here.
 
I have a private Facebook group called JRB Tree Climbing and Saddle Hunting... for users of my method... in there, I maintain a "shopping list" announcement post. I am going to paste it here. If you read between the lines, there are a lot of nuggets in here which may be applicable to other situations or climbing techniques. I am not married to any rope or cord. I have done this on a dozen ropes including dynamic ones. I just keep the diameter ratios appropriate (75% is ideal) and can fine-tune friction hitches with an extra wrap.

#############


SHOPPING LIST for JRB Method
====================
====================
This post contains the detailed 'shopping list' for creating the JRB Climbing System, as demonstrated on my YouTube Playlist, and will remain posted under the 'announcements' button, visible at the top of the group. The post is updated as new information becomes available. You can copy, paste, and print the text for your use, but not for redistribution. Disclaimer: Anyone choosing to climb using this system or any variations of it assumes responsibility for their own safety. Buy the right materials and inspect and replace components as per manufacturer recommendations or signs of wear.

ITEM #1: CLIMBING ROPE
Your life is literally on the line, so do not skimp. Rope MUST be rated for life safety applications, but does not necessarily need to be an 'arborist rope'. Tactical, canyoning and mountaineering ropes all can be used, provided they are rated appropriately. Before buying a rope not listed below, call and speak to somebody to be sure your rope is rated for the job, and ask questions here if you need help. I see plenty of "climbing ropes" on Amazon with low price tags which lack the ratings that come with a quality rope. LENGTH: 75ft is ideal for most. The rope needs to be touching the ground on both sides when it is strung over the highest crotch you will climb, so 75ft of rope will get you in a crotch a maximum of 37 feet up. TYPE: Static or low stretch ropes are generally preferred for tree climbing, and are intended for continuous loading, not for absorbing a fall. Dynamic climbing ropes can be used, and have better characteristics for fall absorption if the line is unloaded and might absorb a fall, but are more 'bouncy' to climb. COLOR: Avoid bright colors especially blue or white. ROPE DIAMETER: 8-11mm, up to you. Thicker is more bulk, but more to grip. JRB prefers a thinner, 8-9mm diameter with rationale: Our weight is being distributed on both sides, so the total rated strength of our system is double the rope rating, and a thinner diameter offers less bulk and plenty of strength. It also flows through the Garda smoothly compared to thick or stiff ropes. Specific ropes that JRB or other members have tested or used:
1. Sterling Super Static2 in 3/8" (9.5mm), available in a dark green. https://sterlingrope.com/store/climb/ropes/static/superstatic2
2. Sterling OpLux in 8mm, one color only, lighter than ideal color. https://sterlingrope.com/store/work/ropes/tactical-rope/oplux-tactical
3. Sterling CanyonLux in 8mm. Members are using. Awaiting feedback.

Other ropes which are rated for the job. Let us know if you use them, and we'll move em up to the section above.

1. Sterling HTP is their lowest stretch static rope, multiple diameters/colors, stiff, typically used for SRT, and thick at 7/16 in or 11mm. https://sterlingrope.com/store/work/ropes/tactical-rope/7-16-htp-tactical

2. Sterling WorkPro is available in 3/8", or 10mm in black, rugged, typically used in DdRT/MRS and SRT systems. https://sterlingrope.com/store/work/ropes/static/workpro/10mm-workpro-work

3. Teufelberger Resc Tech in 8mm looks like it will perform the same as Oplux, but is rated even stronger, at 6525 lbs.

4. Teufelberger Platinum Protect, 10.5mm, 6300 lb rating, in Green or Black. Sheath is bonded to core, and bends well.

5. Maxim Canyon Elite, 9mm, 6770 lb rating.

6. Maxim KM MAX III, 9.5 mm, 6070 lb rating, in black w/yellow.

7. Maxim KM III, available in 8, 9, 10mm, in black:

ITEM #2: UTILITY CORD, for the friction hitches. The cord MUST be rated for climbing applications; our lives are on the line. The diameter of the cord is chosen based on the rope diameter: 75% of the diameter of the rope is ideal. 25 ft in length recommended, gives some extra. Sterling products are available and recommended. Use:

* 6mm cord on an 8mm rope, a 75% ratio. With 6mm Sterling cord, a 5 wrap Michoacán was perfect. Note: 7mm Sterling cord is also used by JRB on 8mm Oplux rope, and the Michoacán hitch needed 5 or 6 wraps to hold adequately. https://sterlingrope.com/store/work/cordage/accessory-cords/6mm-accessory-cord

* 7mm cord on an 9.5mm (3/8") rope, a 74% ratio, with the standard 4 or 5 wraps on the Michoacán. https://sterlingrope.com/store/climb/cordage/accessory-cords/7mm-accessory-cord

* 8mm cord on a 11.1 (7/16") rope, a 72% ratio, 4 wraps. 8mm cord on an 11.5mm rope, a 70% ratio, 4 wraps. https://sterlingrope.com/store/work/cordage/accessory-cords/8mm-accessory-cord

ITEM #3: WEBBING, 12 ft minimum, for double foot loop. Safety rating is not absolutely necessary, because our life is never dependent on our footloop, but should have at least a 1500lb breaking strength, so as a loop, it is 3000 lbs, more than 10x the working load. 1 inch polyester webbing in camo is available from multiple sources. I have not tried this one yet, but I love that you can buy it by the foot and it seems strong as hell. https://www.uscargocontrol.com/1-4-5K-Polyester-Cargo-Webbing-Linear-Foot-Camo

ITEM #4: TWO D-style, 4inch, non-locking Carabiners, for Garda Hitch in Footloop. Fusion Climb Vapor makes a good model which works great in 8 to 9.5 mm rope. Locking beaners not recommended because lockers can prohibit proper binding because gates are typically thicker than the rest of the beaner. Thick or stiff ropes MAY require a bigger beaner. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008KEDHVC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_M2SYFb33HY1KR?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

ITEM #5: Two Caribiners for connection to saddle. I like Black Diamond Gridlock carabiners: because our hitches go slack during our climb, and it maintains proper orientation and is not prone to side-loading. https://www.blackdiamondequipment.c...raws/gridlock-screwgate-BD2102780000ALL1.html

ITEM #6: At your discretion, if you want a redundant bridge, or a redundant saddle/harness, the details of how to construct that are up to you. Ensure it is engaged in a way to save you if anything else fails. Note: I plan a video on this next!

ITEM #7: Optional: you may want a Swivel on your system. JRB uses a PROND swivel on one saddle, and a Petzl Micro Swivel on another. Also used an "ISC Twister" (Supersafe) Carabiner which is a Swivel and beaner in one, so ya would only need one other beaner.
"ISC Twister Carabiner" https://www.gmesupply.com/isc-twister-carabiner?item_id=IS-KH255SS

ITEM #8: 16 oz Arborist throw ball and at least 50ft of throw line.

ITEM #9: Paracord. Buy plenty, for leaving preset loops over a crotch on the many trees you may want to prepare in advance, so that you only need to work a throwball once per tree, and it remains rigged for years.

LINKS:
Sterling products can be purchased directly or via distributors. Ropes are not cut to custom size.
Note that Eastern Woods Outdoors sells many rope and cord products by the foot.
 
Your swivel, for example
Regarding a Swivel, you don't need it... however, I climb some complex trees which occasionally will cause me to rotate on my way up. And sometimes my preferred sitting position is different than my climbing position with respect to the tree and the crotch. The use of a swivel ensures that there's never any twisting. Swivel is engaged only on my primary bridge. And so if I do turn 360°, I might reconnect my redundant Bridge or foot Loop, but I am always tied in and safe. Swivel isn't necessarily something I need in order to Pivot into position for a shot. Rope rotation on the tether is more than adequate for that. But when you spun around a few times and it's gotten dark and you're ready to repel and don't want to put on a flashlight because there's deer 50 yards away bedded down, it's nice to know that there are no overlapping ropes in your system. I almost never use flashlights. But that's another topic and gets into hunting strategy. I filled 11 tags this season and i don't say that to brag, it's just that job #1 is safety and job #2 is hunting success. More gear doesn't necessarily accomplish either.
 
Thanks! Obviously lots of these things many of us have and/or know but we also like to share as much as possible here as so many folks are knew to the game. I am looking forward to trying the general method when I get a chance and I’ll report back when I do.

I also appreciate you sharing this here in addition to Facebook, which I and many others also don’t use.
 
Thanks! Obviously lots of these things many of us have and/or know but we also like to share as much as possible here as so many folks are knew to the game. I am looking forward to trying the general method when I get a chance and I’ll report back when I do.

I also appreciate you sharing this here in addition to Facebook, which I and many others also don’t use.
No problem. I am not selling anything of course... i am sharing what i do to the best of my abilities. My DdRT climbing system evolved for a dozen years before i came up with this. That system is really quite slick but i do prefer this. And by releasing it, i benefit by getting feedback, and so i it evolved more quickly. I actually did a climbing video today and will upload it tonight.
 
I also plan to do a video on the topic of self rescue. I'm just trying to encourage people to think about Murphy's Law and how they would survive and get out of a situation, no matter how they get in a tree.

As for the redundant bridge, I am actually gonna redo mine, and so how about I publish a video for you about how I make that? I can probably do that this weekend.
Yes to the self rescue vids in my opinion one of the most important skillsets to develop for any kind of saddlehunting.
 
I grabbed a buddy and made one video today: My rope climbing method went thru a few nice tweaks and improvements thru the season. I love the confidence I get from fact that I can endure a slipping or even broken friction hitch, failed carabiner, failed bridge; because that's all redundant. The only things that can fail and hurt me are the tree and my climbing rope. And of course, there is a separate video on how I can climb to two anchor points, like two crotches on two different trunks, getting me in the middle of a complex tree, something ya can't effectively do with DRT or SRT. I am not trying to convert anybody from your preferred method, but if it gives you an ideas about how to add redundancy to your system, that's a good thing.
 
With that said, @John RB I am wondering if you can share more on your redundant bridge and the kinds of rope/gear you have going there. Your swivel, for example, is not something I see many folks trying but I am certainly curious about it.
Hey Arm Breaker. Sorry, I didn't forget. Here ya go. This video is 10 minutes old. And it's completely applicable to any climbing method where ya want a 2nd point of attachment.
 
Hey Arm Breaker. Sorry, I didn't forget. Here ya go. This video is 10 minutes old. And it's completely applicable to any climbing method where ya want a 2nd point of attachment.

Awesome, thanks so much for sharing. I really appreciate your clarity and attention to detail in these videos.
 
@John RB I can see why you like the hunter’s bend for tying on the fly. Any advice on the strength of that one versus something like a double or triple fisherman’s?
 
@John RB I can see why you like the hunter’s bend for tying on the fly. Any advice on the strength of that one versus something like a double or triple fisherman’s?
For starters, I find it shocking that we can't just Google up the approximate efficiency ratings of every knot in the book. I understand that they vary with the rope, but SOME frame of reference would be nice. And so all I have is qualitative data, including a reference from the IGKT that it IS fine to use as a life safety knot. I believe it it is NOT as efficient as double or triple fisherman's knot, but MORE efficient than a standard fisherman's. It's less efficient than the ZEPPELIN bend, which is what i used before Hunters. But i think Zepplin is TOO Unstable and too easy to untie and that is why I made the switch about a year ago.

Even if the hitch was ONLY 60% efficient, my cord is rated at 1686lb:
1686lb x 60% > 1000 x 4 strands= 4000 load, 20x the working load.
 
@JRB Can one safely use the Garda Hitch with a single 8mm line? Or is it best used with two ropes for increased friction? Or if using a single rope do a double wrap?
 
@JRB Can one safely use the Garda Hitch with a single 8mm line? Or is it best used with two ropes for increased friction? Or if using a single rope do a double wrap?
Single line use is the most common useage. So absolutely yes. I have a video on how I build my foot Loop. And if you build one, you can use it for all kinds of climbing or rigging applications such as a foot Loop for DRT or SRT climbing. It's very handy to have. But your choice of beaners is important. Mechanical gates, including screw gates are typically thicker than the rest of the beaner and will not work on thin ropes. I have read conflicting info on what is best but in my own tests, I have settled on non locking 4inch D style beaners. These work great.
 
@JRB Can one safely use the Garda Hitch with a single 8mm line? Or is it best used with two ropes for increased friction? Or if using a single rope do a double wrap?
One more thing: in all the videos and instructions i have found on the Garda, they generally say to use a girth hitch at the other end of the beaner, tying it to your loop. In my testing, especially, on small diameter ropes, the girth hitch did not always work. Sometimes, they got offset and that affected their grabbing. In my video, I describe a variation of the Bull Hitch (something I came up with; its not in the book) which works much better. It really holds those beaners tight and pulls them evenly on both sides. It is described in this video. Someday, I will re-do the video and instruct my camera operator to zoom in close, but for now, this is all i have.
 
More info on how to tie the "head'n'hitch" (not sure on correct spelling).
This video is pretty good on the Hedden Hitch or Hedden knot.
Also, scroll down to the bottom of this reference on the Klemheist, its cousin: https://www.animatedknots.com/klemheist-knot
Its a great friction hitch to know. It is very strong and stable. But it also binds really hard. Perfect for a backup friction hitch, cuz it is stable and always ready to take load, but not the easiest to slide after loading and so not my favorite for a primary.

Note that I have recently been able to eliminate this knot from my system. As of now, in the last video in the play list,, you will see that my redundant 'best friend' is now integrated INTO my footloop. However, it's important to think thru the self rescue scenario:

If I was using the Hedden, and my primary friction hitch failed or broke, the system is completely viable. If it happened and I were to fall onto my Garda: the Garda does not break under load. And so, in order to self rescue, you would need to reach into your saddle bag for a spare prussik loop, tie a klemheist, and then load it to unload the garda. I don't think this will EVER happen, but I do think thru all these scenarios and encourage everybody to do the same.
 
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