The JRB Climbing Method

[John RB]

Couldn't you use the Longhorn Agile for Doubled Stationary Rope Technique (DSRT) then? That was my 1st thought when I saw your new video on it at least.

Absolutely, we can. Its possible that a much bigger climber might prefer it. So far, I haven't had a reason. The reasons I prefer Agile over Longhorn Agile for DSRT are all pretty minor but they all point in one direction:
1. Agile has bit less bulk to get through a tree crotch.
2. Agile is bit easier to tie.
3. With Agile e only have to clip into one loop per hitch instead of 2, for both ourselves and the rigging.
4. For me at my body weight, breaking them has never been an issue even with 6mm cord on 8mm rope. If once in a while i had difficulty breaking and had to put weight on my feet to get started, that's still not a deal breaker for me. I practice that move. We all should know it if we need it. (See the vid for :self rescue after loss of footing" for details. )

Once I get to SRT, with 100% of my body weight on the hitch, that's when, the LA has a more clear advantage. And I don't need to send it through the crotch.


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[Kevin2]

Thanks John, that helps.

Absolutely, we can. Its possible that a much bigger climber might prefer it. So far, I haven't had a reason. The reasons I prefer Agile over Longhorn Agile for DSRT are all pretty minor but they all point in one direction:
1. Agile has bit less bulk to get through a tree crotch.
2. Agile is bit easier to tie.
3. With Agile e only have to clip into one loop per hitch instead of 2, for both ourselves and the rigging.
4. For me at my body weight, breaking them has never been an issue even with 6mm cord on 8mm rope. If once in a while i had difficulty breaking and had to put weight on my feet to get started, that's still not a deal breaker for me. I practice that move. We all should know it if we need it. (See the vid for :self rescue after loss of footing" for details. )

Once I get to SRT, with 100% of my body weight on the hitch, that's when, the LA has a more clear advantage. And I don't need to send it through the crotch.


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[John RB]

Adding SRT... I don't have a lot of use for it but there are a few scenarios... and the one where you don't have enough rope for DSRT... well that's a pretty cool feeling to get rigged.

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[arm breaker]

Hey @John RB, it may amaze you to hear this but after starting this thread 2.5 years ago I have finally had time to fully develop and tinker with your system. I had a small baby back then and we had another since, so those things plus work have kept me busy.

I have studiously followed along with the updates and enjoyed your many videos since. Now that I am into trying it out, I have a few thoughts and questions and I’m curious on your thoughts:

1. I shall caveat here by saying I am heavier and likely fit your system much differently than you. I am plenty strong in terms of climbing, but I still think it matters in places.
2. I am personally having a hard time breaking the agile hitches under load in the canopy. When I play around with them down low using different cords and wraps it always works out better, but 9/10 times I have to perform a an alternate option for getting down. Most commonly I can break one and end up essentially doing a bumpy MRS to get down. I am using currently a 9.5mm Ghillie climbing line and 7mm Sterling cord for the hitches (I recently tried some Beal and Edelrid sewn loops that worked pretty well, too). Would the JRB ascender possibly break easier? Any other thoughts based on your experience with other users?
3. One thing I am curious if you’ve covered somewhere is what makes an ideal crotch for JRB DSRT? I am no arborist but I’ve taken to traditional SRT/RADS with some decent experience and typically end up girth-hitching the tree if I don’t have a solid V-style crotch or rather large limb. There’s little down side in that scenario but I find with DSRT I may need to be less picky as the ropes get too spread out and a little askew in my system (see below for an example where I’m around the tree and hanging to one side cause of gravity, thus spreading the ropes more than I ever see you doing). Any thoughts there?
4. Does anything about playing with the SBC recently make you interested in that sort of decent from DSRT over the Munter and two hitches? I am a) much more comfortable and adept with a device like that and b) having a hard time on the transition to come down due to stuck hitches and bumpy rides. If I can finagle all that loose, and transition to the SBG, I fly right down no problem—but I’ve also done that for years when I used sticks so it could just be where I’m most comfortable.

 

[WECoyote]

Arm breaker, I did my first climbs with the agile hitch this weekend and found it a little rough to tough to break too but maybe I just need to fiddle with how tightly I dress my hitches. I was using 6mm power cord on 8mm rescue tech. I could still tend them one-handed on rappel but it wasn't easy. I like the weight savings on this setup but the thinness of the power cord makes it harder to move it on the climbing line.

 

[John RB]

Hey @John RB, it may amaze you to hear this but after starting this thread 2.5 years ago I have finally had time to fully develop and tinker with your system. I had a small baby back then and we had another since, so those things plus work have kept me busy.

I have studiously followed along with the updates and enjoyed your many videos since. Now that I am into trying it out, I have a few thoughts and questions and I’m curious on your thoughts:

1. I shall caveat here by saying I am heavier and likely fit your system much differently than you. I am plenty strong in terms of climbing, but I still think it matters in places.
2. I am personally having a hard time breaking the agile hitches under load in the canopy. When I play around with them down low using different cords and wraps it always works out better, but 9/10 times I have to perform a an alternate option for getting down. Most commonly I can break one and end up essentially doing a bumpy MRS to get down. I am using currently a 9.5mm Ghillie climbing line and 7mm Sterling cord for the hitches (I recently tried some Beal and Edelrid sewn loops that worked pretty well, too). Would the JRB ascender possibly break easier? Any other thoughts based on your experience with other users?
3. One thing I am curious if you’ve covered somewhere is what makes an ideal crotch for JRB DSRT? I am no arborist but I’ve taken to traditional SRT/RADS with some decent experience and typically end up girth-hitching the tree if I don’t have a solid V-style crotch or rather large limb. There’s little down side in that scenario but I find with DSRT I may need to be less picky as the ropes get too spread out and a little askew in my system (see below for an example where I’m around the tree and hanging to one side cause of gravity, thus spreading the ropes more than I ever see you doing). Any thoughts there?
4. Does anything about playing with the SBC recently make you interested in that sort of decent from DSRT over the Munter and two hitches? I am a) much more comfortable and adept with a device like that and b) having a hard time on the transition to come down due to stuck hitches and bumpy rides. If I can finagle all that loose, and transition to the SBG, I fly right down no problem—but I’ve also done that for years when I used sticks so it could just be where I’m most comfortable.

View attachment 89577

Good to hear from ya... congratulations on the family. Your safety just got even more important, and so let's get your questions answered:

5. If you are heavier, yes, weight does have a relationship in the performance and tuning of a friction hitch. But we can figure this out.
6. 7mm Sterling cord? Or something else? Because i am using 7mm Sterling on the 9.5 Ghillie and getting good performance. I have not tried those other hitch cords... but i believe we can figure this out using what you have. First, it would be handy if you posted a photo of them. I am not sure if you have the bend in the bottom loop or using them as the handles. My recommendation is to always use carabiner handles and to make sure you use them. Pulling down on the handles puts a tiny bit of slack in the hitch and that helps when breaking them. After a long sit and some movement and vibration, they might get a little tight. And so before you break em, pull down hard on the handles to get some space in em. Maybe even step up a couple inches on em before coming down. The Ghillie rope is stiff and has deformed to match your hitch... so try to move it up first.
7. Ideal crotch has something like a 60 degree angle. I have not covered this in videos yet... i will plan on it though. The crotch in your photo looks perfect but you are rigging the rope around the trunk too. That's harder and serves no advantage. Why aren't you just climbing straight up to the crotch? Rope should hang straight down from the crotch and we go straight up under it.
8. I have mastered the munter and I have no plans to go to the SBC as a rappel device. I believe it's tougher on the rope too. I just provided it as an option because: 1. some have trouble remembering the munter and 2. because i was able to figure out how to tether it to me. I don't like using anything we can drop. I don't believe there are any great ways to tether a figure 8 (hopefully someone will correct me if i am wrong). I am still working with the device though and exploring alternative uses for it.

JrbTreeClimbing.com, affiliated with RockNArbor.com

 

[arm breaker]

Arm breaker, I did my first climbs with the agile hitch this weekend and found it a little rough to tough to break too but maybe I just need to fiddle with how tightly I dress my hitches. I was using 6mm power cord on 8mm rescue tech. I could still tend them one-handed on rappel but it wasn't easy. I like the weight savings on this setup but the thinness of the power cord makes it harder to move it on the climbing line.

I, too, like the sound of that but am quite sure it would bind up with my weight on it. I do love how simple the agile is to tie compared to other hitches.

 

[John RB]

Arm breaker, I did my first climbs with the agile hitch this weekend and found it a little rough to tough to break too but maybe I just need to fiddle with how tightly I dress my hitches. I was using 6mm power cord on 8mm rescue tech. I could still tend them one-handed on rappel but it wasn't easy. I like the weight savings on this setup but the thinness of the power cord makes it harder to move it on the climbing line.

I did some work with the 5.9mm power cord a couple yrs ago with other hitches and wound up retiring it. It's stiffer and has a lot more "memory", meaning that it holds its shape and is therefore harder to keep from jamming. Try the 6.5mm Blue Water Dynamic cord. That is what i used here, and that was SRT, so it had all my weight. At minute 7:30...

JrbTreeClimbing.com, affiliated with RockNArbor.com

 

[arm breaker]

Good to hear from ya... congratulations on the family. Your safety just got even more important, and so let's get your questions answered:

5. If you are heavier, yes, weight does have a relationship in the performance and tuning of a friction hitch. But we can figure this out.
6. 7mm Sterling cord? Or something else? Because i am using 7mm Sterling on the 9.5 Ghillie and getting good performance. I have not tried those other hitch cords... but i believe we can figure this out using what you have. First, it would be handy if you posted a photo of them. I am not sure if you have the bend in the bottom loop or using them as the handles. My recommendation is to always use carabiner handles and to make sure you use them. Pulling down on the handles puts a tiny bit of slack in the hitch and that helps when breaking them. After a long sit and some movement and vibration, they might get a little tight. And so before you break em, pull down hard on the handles to get some space in em. Maybe even step up a couple inches on em before coming down. The Ghillie rope is stiff and has deformed to match your hitch... so try to move it up first.
7. Ideal crotch has something like a 60 degree angle. I have not covered this in videos yet... i will plan on it though. The crotch in your photo looks perfect but you are rigging the rope around the trunk too. That's harder and serves no advantage. Why aren't you just climbing straight up to the crotch? Rope should hang straight down from the crotch and we go straight up under it.
8. I have mastered the munter and I have no plans to go to the SBC as a rappel device. I believe it's tougher on the rope too. I just provided it as an option because: 1. some have trouble remembering the munter and 2. because i was able to figure out how to tether it to me. I don't like using anything we can drop. I don't believe there are any great ways to tether a figure 8 (hopefully someone will correct me if i am wrong). I am still working with the device though and exploring alternative uses for it.

JrbTreeClimbing.com, affiliated with RockNArbor.com

Thanks, John! Taking things in turn:

• I am definitely using Sterling 7mm cord, the same you use from RNA. The other cords I mentioned are smaller than I should be using, but stiffer, and thus hold their shape a bit better. Having untied my original hitches for the first time after these numerous loadings I was a little surprised at how internally twisted they are. I don’t think that’s necessarily a concern with safety so much as getting then retuned after each climb. Do you have any thoughts there? Otherwise I am also going to try and make sure the Ghillie and cord are both fully rebalanced before removing my Garda loop and loading them.
• On the crotch, either due to weight, relative inexperience, or ignorance I am always just afraid of climbing on limbs instead of the trunk or a “V” of significant girth. I’m probably too conservative there, but am also just used to SRT where girth hitching the trunk doesn’t penalize me beyond getting the rope down on occasion. Having done more tinkering as of late I can definitely understand why this is less ideal for DSRT or MRS (the latter being something with which I have nothing but recent, accidental experience). I have watched a lot of arborist videos and seen various rules of thumb, I am also simply just fearful of climbing on a limb too small and having it break. I am sure I can be convinced I’m overly cautious on this. I hope I am not the only one that would be helped by a video specific to your system.
• This makes complete sense and I expected as much based on what I know of your perspective. I was mainly just curious but know I, too, need to keep practicing down low with the Munter such that I can get it smoothed out. That’s likely a separate learning effort from getting my hitches right, but so far with limited time I’ve been dealing with both to the end of some frustration. Of course if my rope were better aligned I am guessing this could only help my ability to get one hand on the hitches and get them broken so as to tend them as a backup for rappel.
• On my hitches and bends, I first tied them with a triple fisherman’s given my safety concerns and likely superstitions listed above, but I’ve redone them this evening with the flat overhand. Any thoughts are welcome of course.

I want to stress just how much I appreciate your effort, clarity, and thoughtfulness in your videos. While I know some guys in the community have lots of experience with knots and rope climbing many of us do not. This is the reason we see a proliferation of ducks, ropemans, and safeguards—many of which are being used out of spec. Although I am having some trouble going up and down seamlessly with your method compared to SRT/RADS (while still fully appreciating the immediate advantages of JRB), I’ve learned more from your videos about knots, rope climbing, and more than I have collectively on those topics my whole life. It’s also just a heck of a lot of fun to play with and that’s about as interesting as hunting to me. One thing on that front that I’ve learned from you just by observing is that with rope clinbing you can often get into a much, much larger tree than with sticks or stands. Although there could be some disadvantages there on shot windows, the ability to hide surpasses anything else of which I am aware. Deer simply can’t see you when the tree is larger than your body. Although not all of this has to be specific to JRB, there's lots to appreciate to name a few:

• Redundancy is well thought out.
• It is relative quiet compared to other rope methods including SRT/RADS and certainly something like one sticking. I am assuming MRS can be louder as well when the rope is moving on rough bark.
• The double, untied rope goes in and out of the tree much easier than most other options.
• The climber is in more control of the system creation which is both rewarding and customized.
• One cannot help but learn a lot in the process.
• The aforementioned tree flexibility.
• Certainly the weight of the system is less than most.
• There are more options for alternatives in the event of a hiccup. For example, as a complete novice to the system I accidentally learned the mechanics of MRS because one of my hitches jammed.

 

[Newhunter1]

John,

Is there a reason you've gone from the double Michocan to the Agile hitch?

 

[John RB]

John,

Is there a reason you've gone from the double Michocan to the Agile hitch?

Yes. It's ok to always be searching for something better than what we have. There are multiple properties of a friction which are important to us. In DSRT or SRT, besides unidirectional hold, we want something which resists jamming and which is breakable under load. The JRB Ascender outperforms the Michoacán in all areas... but its harder to tie. The Agile has similar performance to the Michoacán but is easier to tie. And the handles help a lot. It just depends on what the climber is willing to tie and the precise application. For example, if a friction hitch is intimidating to tie, we have to be concerned that the climber might not untie and inspect the cord often enough.

JrbTreeClimbing.com, affiliated with RockNArbor.com

 

[John RB]

Thanks, John! Taking things in turn:

• I am definitely using Sterling 7mm cord, the same you use from RNA. The other cords I mentioned are smaller than I should be using, but stiffer, and thus hold their shape a bit better. Having untied my original hitches for the first time after these numerous loadings I was a little surprised at how internally twisted they are. I don’t think that’s necessarily a concern with safety so much as getting then retuned after each climb. Do you have any thoughts there? Otherwise I am also going to try and make sure the Ghillie and cord are both fully rebalanced before removing my Garda loop and loading them.
• On the crotch, either due to weight, relative inexperience, or ignorance I am always just afraid of climbing on limbs instead of the trunk or a “V” of significant girth. I’m probably too conservative there, but am also just used to SRT where girth hitching the trunk doesn’t penalize me beyond getting the rope down on occasion. Having done more tinkering as of late I can definitely understand why this is less ideal for DSRT or MRS (the latter being something with which I have nothing but recent, accidental experience). I have watched a lot of arborist videos and seen various rules of thumb, I am also simply just fearful of climbing on a limb too small and having it break. I am sure I can be convinced I’m overly cautious on this. I hope I am not the only one that would be helped by a video specific to your system.
• This makes complete sense and I expected as much based on what I know of your perspective. I was mainly just curious but know I, too, need to keep practicing down low with the Munter such that I can get it smoothed out. That’s likely a separate learning effort from getting my hitches right, but so far with limited time I’ve been dealing with both to the end of some frustration. Of course if my rope were better aligned I am guessing this could only help my ability to get one hand on the hitches and get them broken so as to tend them as a backup for rappel.
• On my hitches and bends, I first tied them with a triple fisherman’s given my safety concerns and likely superstitions listed above, but I’ve redone them this evening with the flat overhand. Any thoughts are welcome of course.

View attachment 89630View attachment 89631View attachment 89632
I want to stress just how much I appreciate your effort, clarity, and thoughtfulness in your videos. While I know some guys in the community have lots of experience with knots and rope climbing many of us do not. This is the reason we see a proliferation of ducks, ropemans, and safeguards—many of which are being used out of spec. Although I am having some trouble going up and down seamlessly with your method compared to SRT/RADS (while still fully appreciating the immediate advantages of JRB), I’ve learned more from your videos about knots, rope climbing, and more than I have collectively on those topics my whole life. It’s also just a heck of a lot of fun to play with and that’s about as interesting as hunting to me. One thing on that front that I’ve learned from you just by observing is that with rope clinbing you can often get into a much, much larger tree than with sticks or stands. Although there could be some disadvantages there on shot windows, the ability to hide surpasses anything else of which I am aware. Deer simply can’t see you when the tree is larger than your body. Although not all of this has to be specific to JRB, there's lots to appreciate to name a few:

• Redundancy is well thought out.
• It is relative quiet compared to other rope methods including SRT/RADS and certainly something like one sticking. I am assuming MRS can be louder as well when the rope is moving on rough bark.
• The double, untied rope goes in and out of the tree much easier than most other options.
• The climber is in more control of the system creation which is both rewarding and customized.
• One cannot help but learn a lot in the process.
• The aforementioned tree flexibility.
• Certainly the weight of the system is less than most.
• There are more options for alternatives in the event of a hiccup. For example, as a complete novice to the system I accidentally learned the mechanics of MRS because one of my hitches jammed.

There's a lot of content in your last message and so I'll do my best to hit some of the major points.
1. Thanks. As long as I can help folks, I will. All I ask is that you pass it along and help the next person or generation. Do unto others...
2. Looking at your photos, I can't be certain, but am a bit concerned that the Agile Hitches you created might not be as compact as mine in the video, tied in yellow cordage. Just double check em pls. And then let me know if you’re having performance issues. Send me a PM if ya like... I wanna know your height and weight so i can try to emulate your situation exactly.
3. Regarding crotch selection, in a well formed crotch in a hardwood tree, I am comfortable if the branch is minimally as thick as my wrist or maybe a baseball. In a soft wood like pine, poplar, catalpa, i would want it thicker, like softball size or larger. But we all have different trees and comfort levels. If you're not comfortable, you won't enjoy the hunt. So go thicker.
4. There are a million folks who want you to know what a great hunter they are and i have no problem with that. It's not my style to brag about my hunting success. But suffice it to say it's been a long time since I have not filled my buck tag in respectable fashion. But that shouldn't impress you. But i am proud of this. Last year, i filled over 10 tags again... one buck, the rest doe. Passed on a lot of average bucks. Passed on a lot of doe when hunting for my buck. Lotta time in a tree. And I was never busted by a deer once while in a tree. Sure, I may have bumped a few walking in or out, but once in the tree, I wasn't busted. One doe was taken while i was still ascending. I had my recurve on my back and simply stopped climbing and took the shot. What helps immensely is my ability to hide in bulky trees with branches. And nothing on the tree for them to notice.
5. On the channel, i am adding content on SRT because it's been requested. However, I haven't found even a single statement I need to retract about DSRT/JRB... it remains my preference, except in the few scenarios where SRT has the edge. I just want to bring a rope in the woods with me and be able to do anything I need to do. The Longhorn Agile and Garda are great enablers for me in that regard. Just this weekend, i did a demo climb where I popped off my agile hitches so that I could use the system a different way. And I can put them back on whenever I want. Flexibility is key.
6. I can't tell you how many folks have asked me to build em a system. All were turned down. I put it back on them: "Tell me why you can't create your own." The exercise will be rewarding and educational.

JrbTreeClimbing.com, affiliated with RockNArbor.com

 

[arm breaker]

There's a lot of content in your last message and so I'll do my best to hit some of the major points.
1. Thanks. As long as I can help folks, I will. All I ask is that you pass it along and help the next person or generation. Do unto others...
2. Looking at your photos, I can't be certain, but am a bit concerned that the Agile Hitches you created might not be as compact as mine in the video, tied in yellow cordage. Just double check em pls. And then let me know if you’re having performance issues. Send me a PM if ya like... I wanna know your height and weight so i can try to emulate your situation exactly.
3. Regarding crotch selection, in a well formed crotch in a hardwood tree, I am comfortable if the branch is minimally as thick as my wrist or maybe a baseball. In a soft wood like pine, poplar, catalpa, i would want it thicker, like softball size or larger. But we all have different trees and comfort levels. If you're not comfortable, you won't enjoy the hunt. So go thicker.
4. There are a million folks who want you to know what a great hunter they are and i have no problem with that. It's not my style to brag about my hunting success. But suffice it to say it's been a long time since I have not filled my buck tag in respectable fashion. But that shouldn't impress you. But i am proud of this. Last year, i filled over 10 tags again... one buck, the rest doe. Passed on a lot of average bucks. Passed on a lot of doe when hunting for my buck. Lotta time in a tree. And I was never busted by a deer once while in a tree. Sure, I may have bumped a few walking in or out, but once in the tree, I wasn't busted. One doe was taken while i was still ascending. I had my recurve on my back and simply stopped climbing and took the shot. What helps immensely is my ability to hide in bulky trees with branches. And nothing on the tree for them to notice.
5. On the channel, i am adding content on SRT because it's been requested. However, I haven't found even a single statement I need to retract about DSRT/JRB... it remains my preference, except in the few scenarios where SRT has the edge. I just want to bring a rope in the woods with me and be able to do anything I need to do. The Longhorn Agile and Garda are great enablers for me in that regard. Just this weekend, i did a demo climb where I popped off my agile hitches so that I could use the system a different way. And I can put them back on whenever I want. Flexibility is key.
6. I can't tell you how many folks have asked me to build em a system. All were turned down. I put it back on them: "Tell me why you can't create your own." The exercise will be rewarding and educational.

JrbTreeClimbing.com, affiliated with RockNArbor.com

Thanks, John. This all makes sense for sure. On my specific issues I’ll take it to a PM and double check my hitches in the meantime. We are traveling over the weekend so I may not have time to try much until next week. I’ll try to get some better photos as well.

I'm going to start practicing on smaller crotches and less trunks to get a better feel for the comfort. It would definitely eliminate some hassle in rope deployment and retrieval.

The big tree thing, to me, is just an underrated part of rope climbing in general. It simply isn’t possible with other lightweight/mobile/non-ladder hunting solutions. There’s been talk here in places about going away from the saddle, and frankly I’ve thought about it a time or two when I was busted in smaller trees because nothing was covering me. It’s just something else to consider, but h bet it explains a lot of your success.

I am intrigued by the SRT video you put out earlier in terms of the canopy hitch.

 

[arm breaker]

Thanks, John. This all makes sense for sure. On my specific issues I’ll take it to a PM and double check my hitches in the meantime. We are traveling over the weekend so I may not have time to try much until next week. I’ll try to get some better photos as well.

I'm going to start practicing on smaller crotches and less trunks to get a better feel for the comfort. It would definitely eliminate some hassle in rope deployment and retrieval.

The big tree thing, to me, is just an underrated part of rope climbing in general. It simply isn’t possible with other lightweight/mobile/non-ladder hunting solutions. There’s been talk here in places about going away from the saddle, and frankly I’ve thought about it a time or two when I was busted in smaller trees because nothing was covering me. It’s just something else to consider, but h bet it explains a lot of your success.

I am intrigued by the SRT video you put out earlier in terms of the canopy hitch.

I wanted to update this in case anyone is interested. While I have not mastered the JRB DSRT system I have become much more adept with it since posting the above questions to @John RB. A few things to note in case it is worth any discussion or feedback.

• I have a good deal more luck with the JRB Ascender (523 with rappel rings) than the agile. I am using 7mm Sterling utility cord on 9.5 Ghillie, but I’ve also tried several other combinations and fine similar results. I am guessing this is mostly or entirely due to weight—the agile is harder to break under load and a bigger loads mean harder breaks.
• I have made myself become comfortable with climbing on a crotch instead of a crotch/limb + the trunk which is how I have typically done SRT.
• I can rappel no problem on a regular Munter with no extra wraps on a regular carabiner and the doubled ropes. This is a super simple and safe rappel compared to any device I’ve used and I’ve tried many. With my weight the tendency with most devices is to go too fast without additional friction.
• It took some practice to master the “double shove” but once I did that I can be up the tree faster than with SRT/RADS.
• Finally, and hopefully this doesn’t disqualify me, but instead of using the webbing with water knots I am using two Beal footloops tied in the bull hitch variant onto the carabiners. I just get a little better footing in them than the webbing since they have some structure. Otherwise I am really enjoying the Garda hitch for progress capture and redundancy with the “best friend.”

For anyone wondering, I’ve found JRB to be physically harder but much quieter and more efficient than SRT/RADS. It’s also richer in features/extensions/redundancies.

Of course SRT is likely easier for beginners in terms of understanding the geometries and movements involved.

 

[arm breaker]

@John RB I wanted to update you on some of my experiences and see if you have thoughts.

I’ve been using what I described above all season and really enjoy it. I have tired a few rope options and still cannot get the agile to work for me nearly as well as the 523 JRB Ascender. But, I’ve come to one scenario where I have the perfect tree with the perfect height crotch but the crotch is so tight I can’t get my setup through it. I don’t want to be tying the 523 in the woods and this seems like a perfect time for the agile or something that quick on and off. Is there anything you’ve tinkered with that I can try? I guess one alternative could be the SRT system you have going.

On another note, I am also curious what you do when the crotch your are on is somewhat perpendicular to your platform (knowing you don’t always use one, but this would still apply) or primary hunting angle/direction. Obviously one can tether in, but this somewhat defeats the “always have a line to ground” axiom that I think is truly important. How do you handle that?

 

[The_Fit_Ness_Monster]

I’m still with the compact 523 ascender, love them, even tie them as backups on my tether. Also since I last posted here I’ve gotten 2 friends who have never hunted before not only to get into saddle hunting but bc of your system (JRB DSRT) they became a little obsessed with it. And constantly ask, why would anyone get into a tree any other way? Lol

 

[John RB]

@John RB I wanted to update you on some of my experiences and see if you have thoughts.

I’ve been using what I described above all season and really enjoy it. I have tired a few rope options and still cannot get the agile to work for me nearly as well as the 523 JRB Ascender. But, I’ve come to one scenario where I have the perfect tree with the perfect height crotch but the crotch is so tight I can’t get my setup through it. I don’t want to be tying the 523 in the woods and this seems like a perfect time for the agile or something that quick on and off. Is there anything you’ve tinkered with that I can try? I guess one alternative could be the SRT system you have going.

On another note, I am also curious what you do when the crotch your are on is somewhat perpendicular to your platform (knowing you don’t always use one, but this would still apply) or primary hunting angle/direction. Obviously one can tether in, but this somewhat defeats the “always have a line to ground” axiom that I think is truly important. How do you handle that?

1. Thx as always brother.
2. The Agile Hitch needs to be "exercised" via its handles in order to remain optimally jam free. Specifically, as we climb, our hands have to be on the hitch handles whether they are small carabiners or just the overhand bend, if we tied it that way. The only reports of jamming were from climbers who didn't have handles or weren't using them and were simply continuing to slide the hitch up, but never exercised the bottom.... the pull down on the handles is what I mean by exercise. Please include a photo if ya can.
3. My primary DSRT system is really the 3 hitch universal system i showed in this video. 2 Agiles for DSRT and a Longhorn Agile on the LONG end... and i don't tie it in the tree. I just leave it there. I can use it in conjunction with a Maverick (and possibly a pole) to adjust my tie in position. Make sense?

JrbTreeClimbing.com, affiliated with RockNArbor.com

 

[John RB]

I’m still with the compact 523 ascender, love them, even tie them as backups on my tether. Also since I last posted here I’ve gotten 2 friends who have never hunted before not only to get into saddle hunting but bc of your system (JRB DSRT) they became a little obsessed with it. And constantly ask, why would anyone get into a tree any other way? Lol

That's nice to hear. One thing i underestimated in this process is how much i slowly learned over the years.
I shot my first archery buck out of an oak tree with a recurve. I free climbed it with my bow on my back. I remember the first time I used a climber and thought it was the greatest thing in the world. Then i experienced slippage and reconsidered. I built many permanent stands on private property with a 4x4 foot platform and reclining office chair... even a rear view mirror... Thought it was the greatest thing ever. Then I started rope climbing... MRS/DRT. Every time I made an improvement to the system or my DIY saddle, I thought it was the greatest thing ever. Then Non-mechanical SRT. But when i devised and mastered DSRT.... now i felt like a criminal. It was too cool not to share. That's how this began. Last season in 2022, I hunted a lot more than this season because I had double the tags. And I used 8mm RescTech with a pair of JRB Ascenders and they were flawless. I never had a jam and never needed to adjust them.

As we help others, the hardest part is knowing what I need to better explain in order to convey what you and your buddies also have concluded. So what can I do to improve my message? Or technique? After hearing from many, I believe the double shove is the biggest hurdle... If you go back to my very first video, I wasn't even doing it yet. I had tried it but it was still awkward. Thoughts?

JrbTreeClimbing.com, affiliated with RockNArbor.com

 

[The_Fit_Ness_Monster]

As we help others, the hardest part is knowing what I need to better explain in order to convey what you and your buddies also have concluded. So what can I do to improve my message? Or technique? After hearing from many, I believe the double shove is the biggest hurdle... If you go back to my very first video, I wasn't even doing it yet. I had tried it but it was still awkward. Thoughts?

JrbTreeClimbing.com, affiliated with RockNArbor.com

As far as me and my buddies are concerned and from I’ve continued to keep up with the message is clear. I’m pretty athletic so the shove isn’t awkward or a problem, I’ve even used this system to just go straight up to a giant limb about 8 feet from the tree and just used my garda foot loop as my “platform” I could even sit with it up there, one of my friends is equally athletic and the other is a little plump but in no means out of shape and neither had any trouble or concerns, I showed them each twice, they climbed on my system a couple times and watched your videos, they got the appropriate rope via your site and I untied all my stuff and along with them watched the compact JRB hitch video and retied my stuff while they did theirs and it was all a pretty easy process I’ve pretty much got it by memory now, These are guys that are outdoorsey and have only ever duck hunted and fished, but as far as whitetail hunting or climbing trees to do so they’ve never done it. But they taken everything with ease and everything makes perfect sense to them as does it to me also.

 

[arm breaker]

1. Thx as always brother.
2. The Agile Hitch needs to be "exercised" via its handles in order to remain optimally jam free. Specifically, as we climb, our hands have to be on the hitch handles whether they are small carabiners or just the overhand bend, if we tied it that way. The only reports of jamming were from climbers who didn't have handles or weren't using them and were simply continuing to slide the hitch up, but never exercised the bottom.... the pull down on the handles is what I mean by exercise. Please include a photo if ya can.
3. My primary DSRT system is really the 3 hitch universal system i showed in this video. 2 Agiles for DSRT and a Longhorn Agile on the LONG end... and i don't tie it in the tree. I just leave it there. I can use it in conjunction with a Maverick (and possibly a pole) to adjust my tie in position. Make sense?

JrbTreeClimbing.com, affiliated with RockNArbor.com

Thanks, John. This all makes sense. I will need to retie my agile and tinker some more but I will send pictures when I do. I like the idea of them better than the 523 in terms of flexibility and ease of tying, but I also only really needed that option when I encountered the super tight crotch.