John RB
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the replies. With YOUR questions, i better understand the issues you and future climbers may have and so i consider us one team here, as we iron out the details. Some points:
1. Your friction hitches have NO IDEA whats under them. What i am saying is that if i weigh 185 and am able to break a single meech with half my weight on it, with my ropes, and my finger strength, that doesn't mean that you will necessarily be able to do the same due to all the variables mentioned. We can and should expect variables.
2. I do NOT recommend rappelling ON your hitches, meaning that they are providing the resistance like a blakes hitch MRS climber does. I want you to have a munter or Figure 8 or other friction device and your hitches are simply along for the ride on the rappel.
3. Break them one at a time. When ready to rappel, friction device in place, break one hitch.... and you will move a couple inches while the system settles and gets tension on your rappel device. Once ya broke the first hitch, make sure its adequately LOOSE on the line. Wiggle it as ya need to with one hand to get it loose enough to slide easily. THEN reach up and break the OTHER friction hitch and get it loose. Then ya can start to rappel. The tending of those hitches should be effortless. Otherwise you still have em too tight. Ya even might want them slightly different heights on the way down so they are not squashed together.
4. A double Michoacán, (double, not 2 ... look for my video on the Double Michoacán) on each side is going to be EASIER to break than a single meech on each side. Ya need more cord to make it but it breaks easier.
5. All of this breaking gets more difficult on small cords on small ropes... for example 7mm Sterling hitch cord on 8mm rope WORKS and is easier to break than 5mm hitch cord on the same rope.
6. There's no crime in having a backup plan to break a hitch that's stuck. I have hunted in rain, turns to snow, and had friction hitches literally FROZEN on the rope... some breaker devices include... and see photos:
1. A PVC device, which could be permanently on the one side of your rope.
2. A Boat clip which may already be on your line for rigging...
3. Brand new idea: a golf divot repair tool in your saddle bag.
Lastly... i am beyond stoked to be about ready to publicize a new friction hitch... it's gonna make so many things easier. Including breaking. Its easier than a single meech, maybe a little harder than a double. This may be the most creative and useful thing i have done yet.
Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
1. Your friction hitches have NO IDEA whats under them. What i am saying is that if i weigh 185 and am able to break a single meech with half my weight on it, with my ropes, and my finger strength, that doesn't mean that you will necessarily be able to do the same due to all the variables mentioned. We can and should expect variables.
2. I do NOT recommend rappelling ON your hitches, meaning that they are providing the resistance like a blakes hitch MRS climber does. I want you to have a munter or Figure 8 or other friction device and your hitches are simply along for the ride on the rappel.
3. Break them one at a time. When ready to rappel, friction device in place, break one hitch.... and you will move a couple inches while the system settles and gets tension on your rappel device. Once ya broke the first hitch, make sure its adequately LOOSE on the line. Wiggle it as ya need to with one hand to get it loose enough to slide easily. THEN reach up and break the OTHER friction hitch and get it loose. Then ya can start to rappel. The tending of those hitches should be effortless. Otherwise you still have em too tight. Ya even might want them slightly different heights on the way down so they are not squashed together.
4. A double Michoacán, (double, not 2 ... look for my video on the Double Michoacán) on each side is going to be EASIER to break than a single meech on each side. Ya need more cord to make it but it breaks easier.
5. All of this breaking gets more difficult on small cords on small ropes... for example 7mm Sterling hitch cord on 8mm rope WORKS and is easier to break than 5mm hitch cord on the same rope.
6. There's no crime in having a backup plan to break a hitch that's stuck. I have hunted in rain, turns to snow, and had friction hitches literally FROZEN on the rope... some breaker devices include... and see photos:
1. A PVC device, which could be permanently on the one side of your rope.
2. A Boat clip which may already be on your line for rigging...
3. Brand new idea: a golf divot repair tool in your saddle bag.
Lastly... i am beyond stoked to be about ready to publicize a new friction hitch... it's gonna make so many things easier. Including breaking. Its easier than a single meech, maybe a little harder than a double. This may be the most creative and useful thing i have done yet.
Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk